Installing Clean Power To My Graphs (Sea Clear Power Harness) 

The harness has 6 total connections (3 hot/3 grounds). In the middle of the harness, there is a split that allows you to run those wires to the console. Everything is wrapped and insulated to make it look clean rather than having 2 different sets of wires running from the battery to the front of the both and another set of wires running from the battery to the console. Hope that clarifies and helps.

@@timbo77ful so what size is the wire? From what I can see it looks like one set of 6/8 gauge to run it all because if u took 3 runs from upfront of 10 gauge positive an neg that's gonna be a bigger bundle u see what I'm getting at....so the harness has to be one size wire w all these branching off of it. Because let's just say u have 5 units and u run 10 gauge to each one an u bundle all that up that's would be bigger than this harness so in reality this harness looks to be no bigger than 6/8 gauge to run it all

It helped a little but not completely. Would still get some interference but I ended up swapping to the Garmin Force shortly after this install and have had zero issues with interference since then.

To me it's more about how I value my time. That harness is already premade with heavy gauge wire and a massive fuse built into it to protect my units. It is also very neat/clean and not causing a ton of clutter with wires. Yes you can run straight 6-8 gauge wires to your units and probably get similar results but you are going to have to run the 4 independent wires (4 times the work) if your running 2 graphs. Now a days it's not uncommon to have 3-5 units on a boat so you would have to run individual wiring sets to those unita. I'm running 4 units on my boat and hooked them all up on the one harness and could add more to it if I wanted. I definitely love having the fuses on the harness because it acts as a fail-safe if some type of powersurge does happen and doesn't end up costing me 1000s in replacing my electronics. Yes if you have the time and knowledge to sit down and make it you might could save some money but I would rather spend my time on the water. I have spend $200 on more pointless stuff in fishing. Lol

@@timbo77ful I run 4 units as well. It was a PITA to run all my wires (10AWG). I almost got the sea clear harness until someone on bass boat central said the kit he got had a fuse at some random spot and IF it should blow it would be a pain to change out. Im sure its a great harness.

The fuse is located at the battery which isn't bad at all. But it's all about preference. I had 10 gauge ran to a panel and once I changed to the harness I noticed a significant difference in speed of the unit and clarity. Definitely not a have to have but it definitely makes a difference to me.

I use 8 AWG from the battery to the console with a fuse box mounted there. I also protect the positive lead with a 50 amp circuit breaker near the battery. Then I run 10 AWG from the fuse box to the console units. Running two 15" displays at the console, two 12" displays at the bow, mega 360, and network hub. It was easy to install and coat about $120 for everything. The sonar imaging is phenomenal. A harness would not change it.

@@humminbird_tips_and_tricks what kind of fuse box did you use?

You can hook up the mega live and 360 on it as well! It will definitely help with clarity of those images.

I do have my electronics connected to my cranking battery. I'm running a Group 31 battery for my cranking, lights, electronics, power poles, ect. The PowerPole Charge basically takes the place of your onboard charger. It isn't your typical battery charger though it more a charging system. When you plug it up it will start charging your trolling motor batteries first. When it gets those batteries to about 75-80% full charge it will start evening out the amps to all the batteries (it basically dedicates more amps to your trolling motor batteries first to ensure they are fully charged but your cranking battery still is being charged at that point just more like a trickle charge until the trolling system reaches thd desired percentage). Typically your cranking battery is being charged by the motors alternator while the big motor is running on pad and with this system hooked up when you are running from spot to spot your trolling batteries are now being charged as well (on the water). One of my all time favorite things about this system is that it is also a jump box. If by some chance my battery does go dead I can hit the emergency jump start button on the app and it will pull juice from my trolling batteries to my cranking battery and I can crank my boat up and make a run. I've been running it for about 7 months now and it has given me peace of mind on the water.

Appreciate your viewing up to that point.

Damn… inflation hit those things hard! Honestly I’ve probably paid more money dumber things in my life so I think I’ll survive this hit.