Box is likely grounded, but better practice is to bond it to the ground. The steel armor and box are conductive, so it's grounded that way. Also the ground screw on receptacles also have continuity to the metal parts that screw the receptacle to the box, so there is a ground present even in the absence of a ground wire, in that case. But always use the ground wire and always bond it. Also use the top and bottom screws and a nut. The center screw can come loose, and also the pressure of plugging things in can weaken the outlet and wear it out prematurely.
Mate, I'm an electrician from Australia, living in Florida now. I find it crazy how difficult you yanks make electrical work. Living here, I almost have to relearn the entire trade. Thanks for the info, and also to the commentary above and below for their input. Makes it a little easier to figure this stuff out.
There isn't much knowledge here. This video should he deleted. Box isn't bonded and anti short bushing wasn't used. I hope you search for other videos showing the correct way of doing this.
Best practice is to use the two provided 6 - 32 screws to attach receptacles to metal cover rather then only the center screw that usually comes loose. After cutting Type AC or MC cable cut the sharp edge at a 45 degree angle then install red anti short bushing.
The 1900 duplex receptacle covers that I purchased at several electrical supply houses always had two 6/32 screws along with hex nuts that often had flimsy lock washers attached or small piece of metal for 6/32 screws to screw into. I always had a plastic hinged storage box that contained an assortment of 6/32 & 8/32 screws, flat washers, hex nuts & lock washers.
Good comment. The ground should be bonded to the box and MC cable secured. The way presented in this video is potentially dangerous in the long term and will not pass inspection. Otherwise good video.
I understand that the socket should be grounded to a metal outlet box. However, I've also read that you can never ground to the structure. So what should be done when using a metal box on a metal frame??
@@CHEECHMUN exactly, there is a spot in the back of the box that a ground screw is made to go in. You can get pre made pigtails that have the screw and a short green wire on it.
At 1:04 - that cutting disk reminds me of a dremel cutting disk. I wonder if one has a dremel tool and they don't need to cut MC cable as part of their daily job, then one could just use their dremel?
As an electrical guy, I know that videos are there to inspire. Please do not take them as a step by step instruction as the code allows each building department (Jurisdiction) to adjust (interpret) the code as written. Many commentors pointed out several code misses: 210.8. Gfci for homes puts "out buildings" under garage requirements. 547. Is for "AGRICULTURAL BUILDINGS" with wiring method restrictions based on the animals kept there. Anyone can put a wire under a screw, but which screw is where the money is made. You can learn and do yourself, but calling the building inspectors or a local guy that just did that same job last week might get you a solution to a problem you never knew you had.
Box wasn’t grounded, receptacle wasn’t wrapped in electrical tape on the conductors and ground should go up but everything else was right to me. Great way of explaining!
And where are the two screws that come with the cover? Would not pass inspection in my area with just the flimsy single 6/32 screw .Hospital that I did a lot of electrical work in would only allow connectors that used locknuts. Smart using type MC cable that has a insulated copper real deal ground conductor verses the flimsy #16 or 18 guage aluminum wire that's inside type AC ( BX ) cable. You should have use a ground screw to ground the metal box. Extremely dangerous if the two 8/32 screws come loose or fall out then box is not grounded.
No such thing any more in the NEC called a neutral. AHOLES changed one of the most common electrical term that was used for over a hundred years to " Grounded Conductor " . Best to spend a little extra & purchase at least Spec grade receptacles. Will last a lot longer. Now must use a torque driver or torque wrench to tighten All ELectrical terminals. Not a plug , A plug goes on the end if a cord to plug into a receptacle.
Using the 14 gauge stripper on the 12AWG nicks and compromises the conductor (especially when you rotate it), no anti-short bushing installed. What I expect from a 6 month apprentice.
The anti short bushing is only required on AC cable. You do not need it on MC cable if you use a roto cutter then clean the square end up for a flush mount in the connector. That said I would still use an anti short bushing just for extra insurance and peace of mind.
Um, no ground to the box?? That ground wire should be attached to the box, not the outlet, and a grounding pigtail attached from the box to the outlet grounding screw.
I assume that the box is grounded by the mc, but you should use the ground wire to ground the box and there is no need to attach a wire or pigtail to the receptacle. When the receptacle is mounted to the cover and the cover is mounted to the box everything is grounded. The receptacle has a self grounding strap on the lower yoke. The cover comes with screws and nuts to mount the receptacle securely and you didn't use those. The screw connection between the receptacles becomes optional. The 20 amp receptacle is ok, but unnecessary, a 15 amp commercial spec grade would be my choice, 15 or 20 amp circuit, it doesn't matter.
1. You need to learn difference between “grounded” and “bonded”. 2. That receptacle needs a ground wire going to the box. Please read NEC 250.146, cover mounted wiring devices are NOT considered grounded.
@@JBarnes917 Thank you for the comment, but I believe that it's justified in this case. See NEC 250.146 exception (A). If he was using a receptacle with a self grounding strap, such as a Leviton spec grade, exceptions (A) and (B) would apply. Am I missing something here?
@@surferdude642 NEC 2005 Handbook commentary: The main rule of 250.146 requires an equipment bonding jumper to be installed between the device box and the receptacle grounding terminal. However, 250.146(A) permits the equipment bonding jumper to be omitted where the metal yoke of the device is in direct metal-to-metal contact with the metal device box and at least one of the fiber retention washers for the receptacle mounting screws is removed, as illustrated in Exhibit 250.52. Cover-mounted wiring devices, such as on 4-in. square covers, are not considered grounded. Section 250.146(A) does not apply to cover-mounted receptacles, such as the one illustrated in Exhibit 250.53. Box-cover and device combinations listed as providing grounding continuity are permitted.
I bought a brand new house. The contractor was thoughtful enough to give me 5 outlets on each wall. The outlets are fed with 20Amp breakers. Each outlet is wired with yellow 20Amp romex. HOWEVER, each outlet is 15Amp. How that passed inspection is beyond me. I'm having to replace all the outlets with 20Amp. !
FYI - the reason it passed inspection is because it is safe to use 15 amp outlets on a 20 amp circuit. Obviously it is dangerous to do the opposite (plug your 20 amp device on a 15 amp circuit and possibly causing a fire).
I don't think you should be using that MC cable if it's not going to be covered up, I thought that it was not supposed to be exposed locations where there can be damage
Section 330.15 states: Exposed runs of cable, except as provided in 300.11(A), shall closely follow the surface of the building finish or running boards. Exposed runs shall also be permitted to be installed on the underside of joists where supported at each joist and located so as not to be subject to physical damage. Type MC Cable without an outside nonmetallic jacket can be installed in an “other space used for environmental air” in accordance with Section 300.22(C). These cables can be installed either indoors or outdoors and in exposed and concealed locations. ... They can be installed in a cable tray or in any raceway.
No "special tool" required. I retired after 45 years and never used a roto tool. Just bend carefully until the sheath comes apart and snip it with your sharp diagonal cutters. Quicker, easier and no extra cumbersome tools to carry.
FAILED! 1) No anti-short bushing for your MC 2) Receptacle is not GFCI protected, all garages need to be 3) MC cable not properly supported 4) Did not properly support the receptacle devise to the RS cover. That middle screw is not a means of support only the top and bottom yoke
@@recon1314 That redhead at the end of the connector is just to protect the wires from the end/edges of the connector, you still need a redhead at the end of the mc cable where the wire would rub on that. Really truly.
@@garyhobbs249 Seems you don’t. I agree good practice would be to run a pigtail from the box to the outlet for a solid ground but with a metallic box and MC it’s an EGC.
@@morehp1 no ground screw or ground tail in box so it’s not bonded. Learn the difference between grounded and bonded…. When you get an electrical license let us all know
Guy didn’t bond the box with the ground.. this is basic NEC code knowledge. You WILL fail an electrical inspection and it’s just not safe. He should stick to changing light bulbs.
Outlet is grounded due to the yoke making contact with the metallic box. I agree there’s no pigtail from the 12-2 to box and box to outlet but it is grounded, just not the way you’d expect.
@@ABflanagan523 wrong… open your code book. 250.148(c) if you have a metal box it needs a ground screw and pig tail. Again this install will fail an inspection.
@@ABflanagan523 We use metal boxes for residential and commercial in Ontario, Canada. No plastic crap. And we have to ground the metal boxes and devices by code.
@@JBarnes917 250.146 (A) Surface Mounted Box. Where the box is mounted on the surface, direct metal to metal contact between the device yoke and the box or a contact yoke or a self grounding receptacle shall be permitted to ground the receptacle to the box.
Wrong NEC 2005 Handbook commentary: The main rule of 250.146 requires an equipment bonding jumper to be installed between the device box and the receptacle grounding terminal. However, 250.146(A) permits the equipment bonding jumper to be omitted where the metal yoke of the device is in direct metal-to-metal contact with the metal device box and at least one of the fiber retention washers for the receptacle mounting screws is removed, as illustrated in Exhibit 250.52. Cover-mounted wiring devices, such as on 4-in. square covers, are not considered grounded. Section 250.146(A) does not apply to cover-mounted receptacles, such as the one illustrated in Exhibit 250.53. Box-cover and device combinations listed as providing grounding continuity are permitted.
