Great video there sir. I watched it prior to replacing the rear brakes on my wifes Ford Escape. Did not know about the EPB so this was worth everything. Thank you
Thank you very much for making this video I just did my rear brakes on 2015 edge and I never would have figured this out on my own.when I pulled the wheel off I got really intimidated by everything but your video was so clear, it was a easy job, save me a ton of cash
Thank you a bunch for this, when we bought our FE we declined the maintenance because it's way to much. No one buys a Ford Escape because they have endless money to throw at a family car.
Just done my rear brakes not hard at all, however caliper brackets bolts are supposed to have blue loctite on them at least that what was on them when i took them out. I cleaned them up put them back in and put a little anti seize on them torqued the first two 129 ft lbs 3rd one snapped, went to ford to purchase 2 new ones (just in case)low and behold blue loctite on them. A couple of years ago I had those brakes done by a ford tech at ford and while I was taking those same bolts out I thought he may have cross threaded them as I needed a 2 foot breaker bar to get them out. Just a note my caliper slider bolts were T47 not 7mm allen bolts a 7mm worked but while i was cleaning them up I noticed multiple points on the head. Good helpful video
Came here looking for information on the EPB. Appreciate the info on making sure you put it in maintenance mode first. The rest of the video is great also. For anyone who is somewhat mechanically inclined, you spell it it out perfectly for them.
You saved my butt. Every YT I saw showed folks screwing the caliper piston back down to flush with the caliper. I started this with needle noses and some force. The piston went in just a little and would no longer turn in despite cracking the bleeder and pumping the brakes gently in case the piston got cocked in the cylinder. Looks like all you did was mash it in with channel locks...... What worked for me was, with the old pads in and the guide pins out, just tugging outward on the caliper bodies against the rotors. This worked well, granted this is after I screwed the pistons in till I could no longer turn them. Note, I am just an average size guy of 65 so really not all that strong anymore. The car is a 2017 Escape with 108,000 and not too much corrosion, far as I know, the calipers are OEM. My notes are vague but did pads at 47K but don't recall so much trouble.
Thank you! Just tackled my 2017 escapes rear brakes today. I was a little apprehensive before I saw this video, never worked on EPBs before. Easy Peassy. Thanks again.
Rear Caliper and anchor plate assembly Remove the bolts and position the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly aside. Discard the bolts. Torque: 66 lb.ft (90 Nm) This is for the 2017 & 2018 Escape - Only 129 in the front Also it is possible the piston will bottom out and not be fully compressed, in which case you must rotate the piston clockwise while pushing inward using a brake caliper piston retractor
Spot on with the torque spec. I did 129 ft lbs. guess what happens? Snap! Should have double checked my resources. Glad a local auto parts store stocks them. Others must have watched this video. Other than that good.
He should have mentioned applying thread lock on the caliper bracket bolts. Also if anyone tried to torque those bolts to 129ft/lbs you'd shear the bolt.
I did change the updates torque spec in the description. Ford puts a ton of thread lock on these bolts from the factory and it makes them miserable to remove. I never use it. Thanks for watching
Greetings from Punxsutawney!! Great video...Liked how you said what tools were needed at the beginning as it saved time gathering them up before the job. Worked great on my 2017 Titanium Escape
@@tristintadlock8947 Its actually not too bad to do. Take off the wheel and under engine shield. Remove the axle nut, Separate the lower ball joint, unbolt the brake hose retainer. Then remove the 2 nuts and the bearing retainer strap and pry the axle out.
Very clear video, although when using a C clamp to compress caliper do not rest the fix end of clamp on the plastic cover of caliper you may damage the electronics my suggestion use the head bolt for fluid line it does not get damage because caliper give way very easy , do not use grinders on surface for brake pads better with wire brush, the info for setting brake system for rear brake service very ease and clear info thank you. Gabriel
Couple of quick QUESTIONS: 1) When putting Parking Brake in Service Mode you said turn the key. You are NOT starting the engine correct? Just in ACCESSORY MODE? 2) What is the purpose of putting the Parking Brake in Service Mode? If I already removed a caliper is it TOO late to put in Service MODE? 3) You did not show using the Caliper Piston Tool to screw in the Piston. Why is that? I thought these screwed in and not pushed in? 4) Can you use brake grease on all the parts that need lubing? Great video. Thank you.
Correct, just accessory mode. Putting it in maintenance mode releases the pistons and 99% of the time, you can push them in without turning them. If you can, put the caliper back on before you try it maintenance mode. Yes, the use of grease is recommended. Thanks for watching!
If you have the 2017 SE AWD 2.0L, you can not use C clamp to depress piston. You will need to rent a Break Caliper Wind Back tool. You can rent them from any auto store like O'Reilly or Autozone. Also make sure to remove cap form break fluid reservoir makes it easier to depress piston.
If it does not had the electronic park brake, you will need the tool. 90% of the time, with EBP you can push it in without a tool. Thanks for the comment.
Pair of needle nose work as well. I actually used the tool that came with my grinder. Cut the handle off to fit and used a pair of channel locks. Easy peasy. You don't need to rent the tool at all
Watch out for corrosion in the holes where the plastic guides for the slide pins fit. Mine were so bad that it squeezed the guides tight onto the pins causing one of the pads to wear prematurely. If the pins don't move easily in the guides, replace the guides after removing the corrosion and greasing (silicon) the holes.
I just did the rear brakes on my 2017 Escape. I was able to compress the calipers most of the way with a c-clamp, but had to go get the tool to get the piston all the way in. I thought I did not need that, yet I had to get one.
We found we had to retract the pistons past the position of fully retracted by turning the pistons clockwise by using the points of needlenose pliers in the slots provided in order to fit the calipers back on.
What happens if you can't get the vehivle in maintenance mode and just begin removing the pads, replacing the rotors, but the caliper won't compress with a c clamp? Just can't compress it. Great video. THUMBS UP!!!
Thanks for watching! On occasion, you will need a caliper tool to turn the piston while pushing it in. The tool is available for rent/borrow at most auto parts stores.
I got a ford maverick truck, 2022. Would like to know if this is same procedure. If not guys on the forum would love to see a video on doing brakes for the ford maverick?
Good tips Thats one thing I've noticed about these 3rd gen Escapes. The rear brakes seem to be finished at the same time or before the fronts. I see that one still has the encapsulated/covered lug nuts....not a big fan of those! They always seem to corrode and swell and turn into a huge mess trying to remove or install.
@@PIPSBURGHVIEWS Yea...lol. Thats the first thing I did with our Escape, F150, and Edge....swapped the lugs for solid chrome ones. Don't wanna be stuck on the side of the road with a flat trying to pry off the bulged out covers and finding a different sized socket to beat onto whats left to get a lug nut off.....argghhh!! I consider it it money well spent.
Good stuff sir! & Everything was smoothly clarified!... One question, after pad replacement, you do not have to depress the brake pedal multiple times before you start your vehicle, for this particular brake job?
Great video, I used to have an old ford escape 2008 and now I have a new 2019 Ford Escape with electronic parking brake, and I didn't know what I was getting in to, but with this video it solve all my questions, Very informative, just one question, is necessary to put the vehicle in maintenance parking mode, when replacing the front pads and rotors? Thanks.
@@PIPSBURGHVIEWS welp. I tried it on a 2020 escape. Replaced all rotors pads and rear shocks. When I saw the rear euro style piston that you turn while pushing in my brain forgot about the service mode thing. So when I was done. Turned the car on, pressed the brakes. OMG. Trac control off, hill assist off, pre-collision off, check brake light everywhere. The car called for help to the dealership and their phone going crazy from notifications of some ford app. I also lost rear brakes. So today labor day. After 4 sleepless nights I got the scanner for Forscan which works like vagcom which I have experience with. I was able to clear the DTC from the abs side of thing. Thankfully that fixed everything. The car is my neighbors car and I was trying to help them save about 80 percent of a quoted service bill. So people don't forget to put the car in service mode. I've aged about 2 years from this stressful experience.
Didn’t know about the EPB, and ended up hitting the parking brake while the caliper was out. The piston engaged the parking break and now I’m getting a brake fault code. Any idea how to fix this?
Oh no! You can try taking it in and out of maintenance mode a few times. Sometimes, if you drive it a little while the light will go out. Hope this helps.
Yah, that is a very important step! You may be able to put in then take it out of maintenance mode and see if that helps. If not, you may have damaged the calipers.
0:55 enter brake maintenance mode. 6:48 exit brake maintenance mode. I'm not sure how the 2017 is but fixing to find out. It does have the electronic parking brake but cranks with a key like it should.😀
@@PIPSBURGHVIEWS Well it all worked fine. The two 15mm bolts on both sides were a total bear to get off all the way. I had to use a pull bar on a 1/2" rachet in the tiny space between the bumper and the ground.🤯
Good to see someone local to the region lol. Did you have a tough time removing the caliper bolts? My buddy did mine tonight, and it took a while because Ford thought it was a good idea to put blue loctite on the bolts. Why they felt that was necessary is beyond me.
Hello, great video! I have a question, what happens if your rear brakes are serviced but the maintenance mode was not activated? Can it be a bad thing for the rear brakes system? Can the maintenance mode be act/deact after the procedure?
The only other way you can retract the pistons in the calipers, is to unplug the connector on the backs of them. That does not damage anything but putting it in maintenance mode is easier. Thanks for watching.
Question quick, what if we over torqued the caliper bracket? In video it said 129 ft/lbs? But in description on video it said 67?. Bolts aren’t broken yet but are brake mounts where caliper bracket bolts into stripped out now?? Thanks also, only got it torqued to 120ft lbs incorrectly!!!
Hey PiPs, EXCELLENT brake demonstration on that Escape model. A couple of pertinent questions for you fella' ? Is it NO longer necessary to "bleed" the brake lines and confirm proper brake FLUID reservoir level ?!? Secondly, is it worth the additional cost to ^Upgrade^ to the CERAMIC ( ex. Wagner ) brake pads for superior stopping ability along with improved WEAR durability over the base pads ?!? Plus, don't the wheels tend to stay much cleaner ? Keep ^UP^ The Great Tutorials Yo !!!
Thanks John, typically you don't need to bleed the system unless there is an issue or a hydraulic part is replaced. As far as pads go, I go with the OE pads unless I am upgrading to a track day specific compound.
Thank you so much for posting this video, My father and I greatly appreciate the time you took in the detailing of the correct tool sizes and such to get everything off. I would have never known about some type of maintenance mode for the brakes, I was wondering, are the front brakes similar to the rear? or are they more complex? Please let me know, Thank you again.
@@PIPSBURGHVIEWS Great thanks for the tip ,I've always bled the lines just a couple of pumps to help the pads settle in easier, anyway awsome video I really needed this as I was trying to figure out how to wind back the piston all the way back. Cheers
Wish I would have saw this video before I paid for the same work. Great video. Is there any chance that if done incorrectly the emergency brake actuator would need replaced a few weeks later? Thanks again for the great info.
Howdy partner. I suspect I have a bad caliper. If I were to buy a new one, im assuming the EPB unit attached to the caliper can be swapped over to the new one?
Good video. Do you have to put the parking brake in maintenance mode in case you are changing the front pads? what was the model year of the car? Thanks.
Why do these vehicles wear the rear brakes faster? My rear pads are getting low while the front still has some life. I read about other people having the same thing happen. I’m used to the front wearing brakes faster than the rear because the weight of the engine is in front. Makes me wonder if this electric parking brake system has the rear brakes slightly applied all the time.
@@PIPSBURGHVIEWS It seems like a bad design then with the back ones rusting worst. I’ve had vehicles where I went twice as long on the back brakes versus the front.
Thanks for the video! I know I need new pads and rotors in the rear of my Ford Escape. I have 58,000 miles and want to know if I need to put in new calipers as well? What do you suggest?
Helpful video but your torque specs were off... 129 ft-lb is way too high for the bracket bolts! I foolishly kept pushing and actually sheared the bolt. Luckily was able to pick another one up but just a heads up for others watching!
What weird is at the time I made the video, I got that spec straight from the Fried service manual. Now it says 66 ft-lb. I noted the change in the description. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Have a question seen a video of a guy replacing brakes and he used a piston rewind kit but he didn't disengage parking brake and you just used channel lock to depress piston im confused can you clarify please
I always put the parking brake in maintenance mode. Most of the time you can push it all the way in with channel locks. Sometimes it will go 80% in and the you have to turn it the rest of the way.
This is the vehicle I own and want to save $$ on the job. Dealer wants $450 just for rear brakes. Question. Do you have to open the master cylinder prior to depressing the caliper piston? Is this necessary? It used to help considerably on much older vehicles. Thanks
Great vid thanks for the info! My 2017 has only 7500 miles, yet the rear pads were fully worn! Fronts are fine. Any reason why this might be? Thanks, Vinny D.
The caliper bracket has a tendency to corrode and cause the pads to stick against the rotors. Yours my be the lowest mileage one I know of. Thanks for watching.
@@vincentdimaggio5627 maybe the computer programming not releasing all the way. I worked brakes and front end many years ago so the electronics are all new to me.
Is it the same as 2015 Ford Edge sport ? Have parts already but not sure if I should because of the EPB. Someone said I have to hook it up to a computer first or something before proceeding.
This is a very helpful video but the torque spec for the caliper bracket bolts is incorrect. The video shows 129 foot pounds when the correct torque is 66 foot pounds. Be sure not to overtorque these bolts.
Thanks, the rotors don't always need to be replaced and you can cut them depending on the thickness but most newer rotors don't have much meat on them to begin with.
@@PIPSBURGHVIEWS Are you sure about resurfacing a solid rotor? Vented can be resurfaced but I think solid rotors should discarded if below minimum.What you think?
