I know exactly what you mean about the tools growing legs and leaving out. I also agree about the cost of hydraulic connectors. I recently added a second remote spool valve and a power beyond plate to my 484 International. So far i am at $505 for hoses and connectors, $260 for a power beyond valve. I still have to have 2 hoses made up for my remote and i expect that will be near $200 with the Pioneer fittings. Hydraulics are just too dang expensive to play with too much so it definitely pays to use quality parts so that you only do it once.
Dave, you’re the first you tuber I’ve ever subscribed to. Love these videos. I’m hoping I can learn how to add Rear Remotes to my Kubota L3301 that already has a factory-installed Backhoe as well as a 3rd-Function valve that I was able to install for my grapple. I hope there’s a way to make that combination work. Looking to use a top-n-tilt eventually with my box blade and scrape blades. A float style valve would be good.
I feel sure you will have great success with these videos if I can be of additional help please feel free to reach out to me here or my personal email address at Daveknowshow@aol.com my video series titled adding rear remotes and understanding tractor hydraulics will launch your understanding of how this works and you will get this done very easily. the hardest part is gathering the correct fittings to adapt the new spool valves to your existing hydraulic circuit. any local hydraulic shop will happily help you with ordering the correct fittings. I have found that Napa is much to expensive so avoid them unless you can compare price to another source. I used my local eaton dealer and a few others. thanks for stopping by and subscribing! peace love and respect to you and your family Dave in Virginia
Well I'm a teen though. Hope the aux hydraulics work out for you. I'm going to be buying a 3 point kit for our farmall m and have to do some hydraulics. I'm more of a older tractor person but I really like the hydrostatic transmission for doing loader work. Or even a synchronized Manuel transmission.
ok I know a Waddell in chester virginia he worked at phillip morris and likes to fish the same area I use to fish in. very nice people. your likely related some how.
i would have gotten way far away from the big ass mirror before you start having trouble holding onto stuff. btw. thats a great place for a mirror, right next to the press. your just begging for 7 years bad luck lmao. also i have something i found in my shop that made me think of you right away. i sent you an email.
sweet! I did not even think about harbor freight. when it comes to drills and stuff I instantly think dewalt because as a tradesman its the industry standard pretty much. but they are pricey and for as little as I would use it now days since I'm unable to work the HF would serve its purpose. thanks for suggesting that! oh yeah are you local to me John? I'm in Virginia.
Dave do you have a supply list of everything you used? I’m wanting to put just one set of scv valve on back of my Kubota L3410. Could do exactly what you installed; but really only need one spool to raise and lower a hay rack. Thanks
@@kevinhays8305 I don't have a list no. the spool valves I bought at northern tool but they can be bought at surplus center dot com. they sell lots of hydraulic surplus supplies. I tell you to be honest I was like you in that people told me to install a three spool valve and I insisted I only needed a two spool valve. well now I wish I had installed a three spool valve instead. so don't waste your time installing a single spool valve. trust me you will eventually want three. I'm seriously looking into adding another spool valve for a small dump trailer.
Hi Dave. Great videos. I recently bought a small farm and my first tractor, a Kubota L2501. I want to add a spool valve to control my top and side link for my 3pt hitch. I plan to mount the spool valve like you show. What brand and model spool valve did you install? Your videos and response would be greatly appreciated.
www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200419671_200419671 here is the link to the valve I used. I'm not an affiliate to the site so makes no difference if you buy from here or amazon or some other resource. glad you are enjoying my videos. if I can help just let me know.
You should be able to feather the joy stick and send just a little flow which will slow it down. If your joystick control will not do this then you likely have an issue with the spool valve attached to the joystick. Feather by slightly moving towards the dump position. You can add a restrictor to reduce flow rate but that is not fixing the problem 1 and 2 it may cause increase in hydraulic oil temperatures. Hope this helps. If you need more info on feathering the control I’d be happy to create a short video showing this. Just let me know.
Dave, I have a question. Your video is very good and I know what to do to eliminate the selector valve now. But the question is, when I remove the front end loader which lines must be connected together in order to complete the circuit. I believe it should be the main line coming into the spool valve and the power beyond line that must be connected to still use the rear remotes and the 3-point hitch. Is this correct? When the front end loader is removed, the spool valve goes with the loader and doesn't stay on the tractor.
on my tractor and most other tractors the fel spool valve stays on the tractor even when the loader is removed. that spool valve contains three vital connection points. main power in, power beyond and back to tank ports. hope that helps. if the valve is removed then connected the main power in to the power beyond line will continue the feed so yes you are correct. edit: additionally if equipped with a back to tank line that line will need to be capped off.
Thanks Dave, I'm going to watch the other videos about hydraulics that you have out also. I'm not great on hydraulics, but in time I usually figure things out. It's great to have access to videos like yours.
Dave, just so I understand,,The spool valve you are installing, is that an open or closed center valve? Edit: Has to be open center for Power Beyond. If not, you won't be able to use anything BEYOND the rear remote spool valve.....
that is correct open center. some like mine has a power beyond port and a back to tank port. others only use the power beyond port. on this one I used both and had to either install or remove an internal device to create the power beyond port. cant remember which it was. I believe I added in a piece that was included with the valve. the only difference seems to be that when you add that piece instead of dumping the low pressure side of the cylinder into the power beyond port at the manifold it instead dumps that fluid into the back to tank port under relatively low pressure at least that is how I understand it. hope this helps. if I can help in anyway please feel free to ask.
yes I love to talk and make the point clear for those with a learning disability like mine. sometimes its still about as clear as mud. lol oh well at least I'm trying to share worthy information to help folks. have a good day and thanks for putting up with me. lol
