Hi Robert we drilled through the Steel and bolted 2 6inch x2inch timbers witch sat inside the steel. Then nailed out hangers to the wood. You can also bend them over at the top and tec screw them into the steel👍👍👍
Ace job that mark ! Your bloody fearless taking such a monster on but god on yer pal . Now your putting music on the vids can I request sone Justin Beiber please 😬😂😂🧱👍🏽
"Oh we need another groove here" haha glad you left that in, I was wondering what shape your steel was when you showed us the pencil marks on the joist without the final cutout!
Great work, starting to take shape now! Those joist centres look wider than usual though, any reason for that. Didn't think you can exceed 400mm centres.
m today I put steel 450 pounds 7 m in length three people and one block and one support in a hole 35x35 cm all over the length of the wall it was funny but easy
How much is the span for the existing wall with the 2 beams fitted & bolted ? I have about 7.5 meter span would like to know can avoid having any pillar thanks
Great work, starting to take shape now! Those joist centres look wider than usual though, any reason for that. Didn't think you can exceed 400mm centres.
Hi tiktok. Yere they about a block 440. The span of the timber is only about 2.6 m with that big steel in so went a bit more with it. Just so they dident drop on a joint on the blocks👍👍👍
Hi Chris. We put the steel in place on the floor before we started any work. And put the acrows after the steel was on the floor. There would have been no way in getting the steel in afterwards 👍👍👍
Can you assist me please? I have had some steels installed with some new joists. The joist sit flush inside.the rsj and the bottom flange is protruding by around 20mm. How can plasterboard be installed with the flange not flush with the bottom side of the joist? Thanks.
Hi .the best way will be to batten underneath.thats probably the cheapest way you can do it then put the boards on just use roof laths they are cheap and around 25mm
@@markhep thank you for your reply!. Just to confirm that would mean battening the entire area where the new joists are installed? I am in the process of having a loft conversion on a semi detached bungalow. Hip to gable. The old ceilings were made from plywood so all ceilings were removed. Thanks.
@@markhep yes the step is what I was concerned by. The builder should have notched both the top and bottom to be flush with the flange on either side, just like you did in your work. Thank you for your help.
Brilliant. This vid could not have com at a better time for me - i am doing pretty much the same thing with some steels. A few quick questions about bolting the two parallel beams together. What was the distance between the hole centres, was that M14 threaded bar that you used, did you use spacers between the beam webs to set the distance or just use the bar/bolts to pull them together and are there any guidelines/regs for the connections?. cheers - great channel
I mate I just had the bolt holes made at 500mm centers. With m14 bar. I dident use spaces because the steel clamped against each other. But if I have a cavity I get spaces made. Or you could cut some scaffolding tube for it. It did not have any regs for bolting together. Just said on my plan blot together so I just went for 500mm centers hope this helps. And thanks for watching best of luck with your job 👍🤞👍
Look at your existing and planned joist centres before steels are drilled so the bolts don't interfere with joists slotting tight into the web of the steel. Mark you should make a template of the end profile of the steel and then cut a plywood pattern that fits tight into the steel. Get a chalk line on the underside of the joists and line your ply pattern up to this and transfer shape to joists. Cuts should all be the same and fit tightly into web of steel.
Anyone...in this old house it is thin strips of floorboards...what type of boards do they use for the upstairs floor in the video. And as a non construction person... that strap is what holds the joist up... it does not rest on the the steel lip as well? So that is strong enough.... just curious... I know it is done correctly.
Hi mate yes They were living in it wile we did the extension. The floor boards are 18mm boards on floor in the old bit. But 22mm in top floor. You can for extra strength drill them to the steel if you like. 👍👍👍
Hi , my partner is currently using a lifting genie just like this one it was all good lifting the steel beam up but it doesn’t want to come down , any advice ? Thankyou
Hi Dale. It was the out side wall of the original house. So we had one for the inside blockwork plastered wall. And the other was under the rendered bricks. That used to be the out side wall of the house 👍👍👍
@@markhepyou’re not being serious now. Joist hangers are incredibly strong. You’ve buggered up the integrity of the timber there, and created a natural split point.
@@markhep Interesting one that...as NHBC 6.4.12 only gives 45mm as min for I-joists (not solid), but yes 40mm seem too short. I think I'll have 72mm of support, but the structural engineer was bit taken a back that I even suggested using joist hangers. My steel is a bit of a pain as 265mm tall so I have to pack up 70mm on the flange (more drilling the steel) for the 195mm joists to get to finish height. Thank you so much for sharing! Just helps ease the pain of these decisions seeing others do it well!
@@FiscalWoofer 72mm is a good amount.if I would have thought on before I order it I minght have ordered a wider Steel . something to think about for next time 👍👍👍
😂😂Chears James. Yere took me a lot longer than I thought it would. Just setting it up too 2 days. But I expect it from this job now. The older builds take so much longer to match into the new don't they👍👍👍
@@markhep over engineering because nobody can be arsed to do the propper math for it, who cares about builders spines anyways ha ha they send pages that look like they worked it out, just knowing that we only look for the bit that says UB before it hahahaha
I like your videos Mark, you need just a better camera to film, surely you will improve the quality, thank you so much again for sharing your buildability knowhow
This is the second vid I've watched that fast forwards at this critical point when the beam is being located in its final position at height. Would be great to see this in real time as its the most difficult part of the process. Secondly, I would like to see how you get the other beam into the pocket as the beam is longer than the room size 😁
Great video, learned a lot. When you cut the old joist ends for the steel, it looked like there was nothing holding up the inner wall. I can see the props holding the joists up, but the joists ends seem to be free. I am thinking of doing the same but I can't see how the internal wall is supported. Any advice would be a help.
Hi Phil. Yes so we have the joists support. And that's all we do because the inside wall is built on the joists. So as long as you support the joists we'll they will hold the inside wall up. We use scaffold boards to span the joists so we get everyone. The put acro up to them. Hope this helps 👍
@@markhep Thanks for the quick reply Mark. To me it looked like it was only the top inch of the joist that was under the inner skin and it I didn't think it was enough. The video proves it was, thanks again for your help.