I'm not keep a reef but I do keep and breed Discus,I just Love Aquatics. I use RO water on my Breeding tanks to great success. I love this video and have followed it and now I'm producing very nearly double the RO for the same amount of waste, Win win. Many thanks for the Imformation.I will continue to support, here in the UK. By the way , love the challenge for Joey, who I also follow.
For succesful Breeding we have found that a TDS of around 80-100 seems to give us a higher fertilization rate of the eggs. We mix RO to HMA water in a 1:3 ratio and it just seems to works for us.As you know, Everyones source water is different so It might not work somewhere else.We are lucky that our tap water has a PH of 7 and a TDS of anything between 130-160 which is pretty good and only needs a small amount of adjustment. As for RO being a must, For us, yes it is, but if you were lucky and had the space you could set up a good clean rainwater collection and storage system. That water is excellent to mix into de-chlorinated tap water. Sorry long answer to a short question I know.
That is awesome I've had an old membrane holder lying around empty for months.. I know what I'm doing with it now lol... Excellent video tutorial as always :)
Nice video as always. But I want to add that people should buy this as the kit, because I got confused and had to buy everything individually which was a pain in the rear. I watched the old video, this one was way better! And a question, when I have the flush valve open, ro water is still being made right? Thanks BRS!
***** Thanks BRS, I leave the flush valve kit open before I make my RODI, and watched the old video to make sure I set it up right. I was worried because some water was going into my Reservoir. Anyways, thx!
***** Plus I have many years in the fresh water fishkeeping; but you know, never is enough. I want to understand very well everything. You guys help really a lot. As a matter of fact is because of you that I decided to get in to reefing :) very good information that you guys provide.
Not sure I've found the video or not but do you have an instructional video on proper setup of an RODI system? Proper way to plumb it and add a pump if the water pressure is low, make it cleaner looking, best way to utilize the system and so forth.
Excellent video 😊 I have a question..... If you're.wasting half the amount of water after this upgrade does that mean the pre filters and membranes will last twice as long?
I did this with a 100gpd up to 200 gpd. Only difference is mine has a bypass for rinsing the membrane? So now I'm not sure, but it seems like it would only rinse the one.
In a water saver configuration, both membranes run off of one flow restrictor and one flush valve. When you open the flush valve, both membranes get flushed.
Would adding a Third 75GPD RO Membrane (3 - 75GPD - Total 225GPD) produce a better yield in product water with less waist water than just Two RO Membrane's?
I have the ro buddy 75 and have added to it. I added an extra carbon filter as well as an extra 75gpd membrane. I can't get the auto shut off to operate properly. I also didn't upgrade to a higher flow restrictor. The aso is after the 2nd carbon filter and everything is hooked up like in the video. What am I doing wrong?
Is this method better than how you guys demonstrated in one of your older videos on how to install the 150 gpd upgrade kit? In the older vid it tells you to disconnect the red line and add it to the incoming on the top RO membrane rather than keeping it on the bottom, etc. Anyway, I'm curious to know which method is preferred. Thank you in advance
Hi I’m about to update my RO into dual membrane unit. I have trouble getting the Y connector to join the two product water’s. I would like to ask if I could use the T connector for this application. Best regards
I have a BRS 6 stage chloramines RODI unit. My pressure going in to my RO is about 56psi. Would you recommend this upgrade with out a booster pump? My supply TDS ranges from 165ppm to 175ppm
Hi, nice set up. I realize that my question is a little off topic. However, I have two different Ro/DI units (bought one and then decided on a larger tank) so could I run the waste into the second unit and get water from it without hooking up another line to it via the main inlet to the current ro/di system?
Sir i have installed 75gpd RO on 20tds which is already purified by RO plant we need zero tds because we use this water in laboratory. So the issue is now i am getting 4tds and water output is very low like drop drop. Flow restrictor of 300 is pre-installed. So kindly guide me what should i replace to get more flow and low tds upto zero if possible. Thanks in advance
Once installed and running, the system started squealing at the new RO housing waste outlet that feeds the second RO housing inlet. The tone changes with pressure changes. There are no leaks. Well water pump has a 30/50 switch. I rotated system to purge any trapped air but squeal remains....any suggestions? Very annoying.
I had 100 gpd. After watch your video i bought another 100 gpd membran and set as in your video. The problem is leaking in drain water. HELP me please. My booster pump is 70 psi. And flow restrictor is 300.
Great video! How do you feel about a different connection, being, splitting the pre RO water into two separate membranes and joining the waste waters with one flow restrictor? I ask because I would like to do this with an Auto-Flush restrictor. If not, do you recommend the Auto-Flush with the setup on the video? Thanks!
Hi do you guys have a video on correct flow restrictors to fit either in single or double membrane mode . I also have two 75gpd membranes but with a 400 flow restrictor and I see you guys use the 550 .
Hi Thanks for the advice, I’ve completed the setup now. My feed water supply is 190-210 TDS. Originally was producing product water of 4 TDS before resin. Now I have run in series it’s increased to a combined product water of 27-30 TDS. Any ideas why? Thanks in advance for your help.
Hi guys, I saw this video and upgraded my RO unit with parts from BRS. My membrane in there was a 100 gpd, so i bought another 100 gpd membrane and installed in series. It seems to be producing water way to fast, 5 gallons in under 25 minutes. I installed a psi gauge and keep water pressure at 60 psi. I also upgraded the flow reducer from 450 to 600. The TDS meter is in the mail now, so I can't test the output water (lost my first meter). I triple checked both ro housings and have the outer port as the waste line. Any ideas is appreciated thank you.
***** Thanks, I missed your response. I took the unit apart a few more times and found that I had a line mixed up. One of the RO membrane housings I had, had a red line out for product water. I thought the red line out was waste. I fixed it and it all seems to work well. Oddly, if I used the original flow restrictor 400 gph it produces 0 tds water. If I use the updated one 600 gph as suggested on the website for 100gpd x2, it produces 1 tds water. I may add a 3rd ro membrane, I have lots of water pressure ( easily 80 psi),
A flush valve (either manual or automatic) would simply replace the flow restrictor. Just remove the flow restrictor, pop the lines into the new flush valve, and you're ready to go! Check out this video for a full how-to: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--qpbHgfLSto.html
The check valve on our BRS units are built into the product water elbow fitting coming out of the membrane housing. That said, if you have a different unit, you'll want to install the check valve between the product line output of the membrane housing and the auto shut off valve.
We'd suggest using a booster pump for a 150 GPD water saver system if your PSI is lower than 65. If you're within the range of 65+ PSI, you don't necessarily need a booster pump.
