I know this is old, but English and Metric are both used during this demonstration. It would be better to stick with one throughout. My guess is two different presentations were combined. Also, I would suggest that a removable panel with a different finish installed at the toilet area be strongly suggested to the customer. Trim around this area can hide removable fasteners. Any call backs will be easier, and the customer will benefit in the long run maintenance wise, along with having a more architecturally custom finish.
My house built in 1963 had a wall mounted purple toilet. Tank and flush was exposed and not in the wall. So I knew a wall mounted toilet would cost much more than a standard. I figured doing an ultra modern remodel that involved a total tear out would have the right plumbing for another wall hung toilet. My Aquia $1000 toilet cost me about $1500 to install. So besides the new wall adjustments the gas vent for the bathroom was a "T" connection off the drain of the old toilet. Toto has a custom wall drain system that only comes in 90% drain options. It took my excellent remodeling crew 8 hours for 2 people to route a new vent. Toto's recommended seat (extra) is cheap plastic and moves around. The lid has scratch the paint on the wall. I put a bumper sticky pad on it but it slipped down the cover (pad looked good but the quality adhesive sucked). The Aquia was supposed to have a coating that is supposed to help keep it clean longer. Nope. I worry about getting replacement part. Home Depot sells the toilet but they do not stock it or have replacement parts. All of that has to go through 1 importer in NYC. BUY a Kohler!
Great idea, but I’d rethink this. Installed one, but the flush valve leaks out water. Changed ballcock, and the flush valve, so now what…..nothing. Can’t get at it, so it’s useless now. Mind yiu great idea, love it as it’s easy to clean around the toilet. I’m a plumber but to get at the inside is impossible. Access is too small to get hands in. Then too boot, Toto gives me balls two years in as it’s leaking past, I had to but a new flush valve and new ballcock, then the same bullshit, must be me or my water……ya ya, installation was simple, I made dam sure it didn’t move, just use lots backing. Toilet after the walks were in went well. All in all great idea. But to install new tank is a total redo of the washroom, obviously at this cost it’s not a normal washroom, so it will cost a fair amount to replace. I’ll do it in few years, I can get at bottom so I can reconfigure the rough in. Oh well, lesson learnt.
We installed this toilet a little over one year ago in a basement apartment. It was rarely used till the past two months as we moved into the basement. So we only just discovered that the toilet often continues to run when the smaller lever is pushed. I could find no trouble shooting in the manual. Does anyone know how I can address this issue? We have to continue to to check after the flush and flush again till it stops running. Thanks in advance for your help.
I just had the same issue.. I replaced the rubber gasket ..even though old one really looked good and I could not tell the difference. It stopped happening for 2 weeks.. then started again.I just took plate off now .. readjusted the red and blue push rods and I can't reproduce the problem ..yet.. Maybe one was too long and was getting stuck somehow...
Well this was fairly easy, BUT NEXT TIME dont call a 2x6 wall STANDARD as its far from standard. I had to buy the 2x4 wall conversion kit after the fact while I was installing it.......
All I remember is I had the same issue, that 1. 3/4 thing is bullshit, for starters the kit it comes with is for a 2x6 wall and that wont fit with 2x4 walls as the drain wont fit with sheetrock, so get a 2x4 special order kit then do whatever measurements you have to do to figure out the dead center of the pipe (3" Drain) and run that fucker right up from the bottom. Also frame out the RO for the top (headers) about three inches higher (so about 5" from top of metal frame) as you may have to adjust later again like I did. If your using tile make sure there 1000% straight as there is alot of potential for them to crack or the toilet to crack. Also the little drain pipe thing that comes out to the toilet mine was out a little as well but that can be adjusted with the cutting you do.
Yeah, I caught the rough in pipe early enough before the drywall was up, thank god. I'm going to adjust my legs about 4 inch off the floor. a little higer than standard
I have a toto in-wall tank and I have a steady leak into the toilet bowl, anyone know how to fix this? I have taken out the flapper and inspected the washer and it looks fine. Any links to troubleshooting or help? Thanks!
+jennifer wallace YES! I contacted toto customer service and was told that the first step is to determine if it is the flush valve assembly or fill valve assembly by turning off the water and waiting to see if water level in tank lowers. IF it lowers then flush valve is leaking and if it doesn't lower then the problem is with your fill valve assembly. I disassembled my fill valve assembly and found a very small black seal in the middle had disintegrated and sent the toto customer service contact a pic of this. To their credit, Toto sent me a brand new replacement fill valve assembly and all works great now!
+jennifer wallace No warranty that I know of. Ours was just over a year old and I was quite disappointed to have to service it and fix it and take everything apart and spend so much time on a very expensive toilet. But Toto customer service(just email them with and they will get back to you) did take care of me.
how would you pipe a double installation. Back to back toilets in a hotel situation. do you have any drawings ? I am thinking if there is no chase you must go side to side.....
What are the model numbers that differentiate the PEX and copper connection options - I have not been able to locate the difference on the Toto website. Thank you!
Kind of messed up for venting. Most Commercial carriers toilets have vent fittings, unfortunately, you're stuck with that 90 deg elbow provided. I have seen people put these in without a vent. Being a licensed plumber I don't suggest that method. I'm installing one this week, I'll either jack the floor up and plumbing a horizontal vent off the mainline or use 90 deg elbows off the existing toilet bend
I’m sure these are just different than what we use on a daily basis in my profession but generally there is a neoprene gasket needs to be installed. Like I said I’m sure this is just a different style or something. It is still best to test it before you call get thoughCall gauge call gauge no I said call it no call plumbers cock
I installed a WT171M. If you decide to purchase one ... here you go _1_ Installation instructions are beyond terrible. Not only are some of the dimensions incorrect but the instructions are extremely overly unnecessarily complicated. Maybe the overall worst example I've seen in my 63 years of doing everything myself _2_ the nut that connects the SS waterline to the float assembly is really easy to cross thread. I didn't but as careful as I am I nearly did _3_ the float assembly was NOT snugged together from the factory. Do I had to remove the float assembly to tighten _4_ the float valve was defective from the factory. So add about another wasted hour of figuring out that it's not you who screwed up but the manufacturer who decided to put out a chicken shirt product So........ not only is is not working but now I have to stop, figure out how to get a functional fill valve, stop the rest of my bathroom rehab, wait for a hopefully functional valve to arrive, stop everything else, repair their junk and hopefully have a functioning bathroom in a one bathroom house. If you go this route good luck. You're going to need it.
