Great vid. Thanks! I believe you forgot to mention how the circular flow tabs (1.5, 2.0, or 1.0LA, 1.5LA, etc.) can be pulled from the tree and inserted into the top of the sprinkler head. On mine, there is a slightly recessed circle with 'crosshairs' on the top of the sprinkler head, to the right of the '5000'. Insert the circular flow tab into that recessed circle to label whatever nozzle you have in that sprinkler head. They are easily removable -and reusable- if you need to swap nozzles. Cheers!
Thanks for you video. Seems that documentation on these nozzles is pretty lacking so your video has helped me a lot. Couple of questions for you: I imagine the data sheet numbers for the nozzles numbers relate to the pressure the head is receiving? It seems logical that the more heads you have, each will drop the pressure in the zone, and the amount it drops will depend on the nuzzle number you choose? What would be the best way to calculate the overall pressure in the Zone? - remove one head and install a pressure gauge via some kind of T? then change the nozzle and check the PSI on the gauge? then once completed, remove the gauge? Thanks for taking time to answer.
Great information and thank you for explaining in detail the different types of nozzles. I have been told that the screw that holds the nozzle in place should be adjusted to break-up the flow of water, but I don't see that in your video. Is that really a thing I should do?
Just unscrew the set screw which is what you see in front of the nozzle if you are looking at it straight on. The set screw comes down to hold the nozzle in and if it continues to go down then it will start deflecting the spray pattern this shortening the spray distance.
@@thesprinklerchannel To remove the nozzle, I found using a tiny pair of needle nose pliers placed in the nozzle hole allows enough pull to remove the nozzle. The nozzle is VERY difficult to remove otherwise. Again thank you for sharing your clear concise video. 👍
Two of our zones run across the slipped area from right to left. We have noticed that there are sections remaining dry. Would the angled nozzles be better on these sloped sections?
You could try that as well as the soak and cycle feature on your sprinkler clock, shorter times but then runs through again in order to give it time to soak in.
Have a bare area . Was wondering why then I started testing out my system and my nozzle flew off and I tried to put in a new but for some. Reason that one has so much pressure
Thanks for the video and explanation of the chart (still quite foggy, though, for my brain ;) ). I thought the screw was not only to help hold the nozzle, but also adjust the spray, but it does not come down into the spray area of the hole to change the spray at all. I have tried 3 different nozzles, and (low pressure and standard) and found that they all have a pee stream at the top of the arc and very little spray in the rest of the arc. Any way to get more even spray instead of stream?
If functioning properly, the screw should deflect the water spray after being screwed down past a certain point. Pee streams are usually seen when the nozzle gets blown out of the sprinkler head. If you have a sprinkler supply store nearby I would take in to them and see what is going. Sounds like something weird is going on that shouldn't be and hard to diagnose with being in person. Hope this still helps somehow.
I like the analogy. You are right. If you back out the screw all the way, there is nothing to hold in the nozzle and once the water turns on or if it is already on, bye bye nozzle and begins the “find the nozzle in the grass” game.
So long at my new 5000+...no nozzle in place yet... Need to flush it but I see what looks like a white mesh filter in the opening... Will that let it flush debris before installing a nozzle?
I wasn’t aware of that but I would see if I could gently remove it, otherwise it may be permanently fixed in there. You just don’t want to loose it if you turn on water and it goes flying out.
I have just one suggestion, your videos are great but why don’t you take the sprinkler heads apart so you don’t have to fight with the spring when you were showing the instructions. Maybe show her to work with it with the spring in the ground with the transition into one that’s been taken apart so it’s easier for you. Just a suggestion keep up the good work
Also, if you have too big of a nozzle for your water pressure, you’ll get a lot of water shooting too short distance without a nice even “rain curtain” pattern.
Typically will either use tool to pry it out which usually will damage it but that doesn’t usually matter since I won’t be reusing nozzle or unscrew it and then turn on water which will normally pop it out
Remember, once you have a rotor spraying water, the internal pipe pressure drops to near ZERO. This is for ONE rotor. So your no flow (zone off) water pressure might be 50PSI. Once you start the zone, your zone pipe pressure drops to near nothing.
Sorry, A likely duh question. I have 4 5000's on each run that a guy put in a while ago. My waterline has 100PSI I thinhk I was told. do I look at the 100PSI listing for each head (which doesn't exist) or 25PSI
Most likely neither. He probably stated it for the beginning of system psi, you would need to measure at the head. You could reverse engineer it and just see how far a head sprays, measure that distance and then reference the charts to see what psi sprays that far. Otherwise just adjust them to get the results / coverage you need.
I usually just use the tool and put the end into the eye of the nozzle and pop it out. Usually I don’t need to reuse it so I’m not worried about damaging it. Or you can turn on the water and it should blow it out with the pressure of the water after backing out the set screw enough.
In order to know how many heads a zone can handle, you will also need to now water flow (gpm) you have available. Also factors that can also include friction loss depending on distance and turns and sizing of pipe using. Then you will want to reference the nozzle chart for the given head and do some math to see how many heads you can safely install per zone. Also remember too much pressure can be problematic just as much as too little. Ideal pressure at heads* is usually around 40-45 psi. High pressure will cause the heads to mist more than spray resulting in water loss. With high pressure, a pressure regulator should be considered. We will probably come out with a video at some point going into more topic about sprinkler design but it is a more advanced topic if you are going to do it right and at this point it might be wise to get the counsel of your local sprinkler supply store until we can get some content published to explain more in detail on this topic.
Hi Nicholas, are you referring to the Rain Bird 3500 series rotor heads? Low flow will be different than low angle nozzles. Low flow nozzles precipitation rates will be lower aka less water per minute but the low angle just has a low angle of trajectory as it exits the nozzle to decrease the amount of what that gets carried away in windy conditions. As for low flow type of nozzles. There will be a video being published in the near future talking allow about Hunter MP Rotators and Rain Bird's equivalent that nozzles that are water conserving nozzles or what we could call low flow nozzles. Hope this helps, let us know if this answered your question.
I think it will be the .75 nozzle. If you look at the holes in the nozzle set, it should be noticeable which one is the smallest if there isn’t a .75 one.
Hook up a water pressure gauge to any threaded T or elbow on the main line or zone or filter or back-flow preventer. Each zone may be different depending on design and number of heads and installed nozzles if checking while running a zone.
