Is such a plesure to hear and see you working at your bike. I could just stay and listen to what you say / explain what another mechanic is working at the bike and still be an A+ content. Good job and wish you all the healt and power to keep up the good work. Many thanks
I was chasing an intake leak on my shovel this afternoon and will be changing the bands in the morning.Thanks for pointing out the bending the bolts trick!
My first HD was a brand new 1975 Superglide. Rode it for ten years...traded it in for a 1985 FLHT Evo...rode it for 32 years...traded it in for my 2017 FLHTK . Love it but do miss my old bikes wish I could have kept them. It’s great to see you keeping them alive and well Mike. You are fun to watch!
I love watching your videos. You are the Bob Ross of Harley. "Let's install some happy little lifter blocks." You have definitely inspired me to build my own Old School Harley to compliment my 07 Ultra Classic. Keep up the good work and I definitely understand when life happens. Thank you.
Hey Mike! Great Videos! One point, ya forgot to mention SU carbs are heavy as hell. probably one of the heaviest from back then. Keep up the informative work.
It’s cool to see the shovel head, my uncle has a 78 shovel that’s been in our family since the 80’s, it was his dads bike (my grandpa) and it’s so cool to ride it, I kickstarted it once and felt so cool haha
Good morning brother mike great advice i learned the hard way on this one years ago 😆 but these beautiful machines are like life ,trial and error right.well were saddling up for a very wet ride home Ride hard ride safe be well
Another great vid...THANK YOU! I always thought HD could have come up with a million better ways to install the intake....but..oh well, you'll have that. On another note Mike, if you are attaching your sidecar...a nice video of that and it's ins & outs would be great........ :) I been pondering getting one as well for my dog to ride in on occasion. Thanks again.
Mike, really enjoy your videos. One of the things that seems to get glossed over on a Harley is under the kicker cover of a 4 speed. If you ever have an occasion to, would you please be so kind as to teach us.
I think I remember my dad teaching me when i was a mid teenager to use that high heat black cloth tape over those o'rings before putting that clamp on to stop leaks. I'm sure i did that on my drag bike in my late teens. I suspect it's type of heat resistant black cloth tape steam fitters use a lot because that was his profession.
@@aquahombre That stuff we used was really sticky and heat resistant and made out of cloth. came off of a roll about 1/2" or so wide. Im sure you guys have seen it. last roll I had was about ten years ago.
10/4 Joe Surfer, I have been using some of that on my two old shovels. I was once a power plant electrician and boilermaker. I still have a little bit of the old stuff and it always seems to work.
Mike, thanks for all the great memories of doing this work. Yea, it is more difficult to set that manifold up with only two hands. I enjoy watching a great tech like you doing these things. And I love that ratchet you're using. I never had one but I wish I did after watching it work for you. I hope you have recovered from your health problems. Me and I'm sure the rest of your subscribers want you to hang around a while. I can't wait to see the project bike come together. Best regards... John Brady
Very much enjoyed watching the installation of that beautiful intake manifold Mike! Nice that you had a buddy to help you out a bit too. The project bike seat looks like it will turn out very nice...and yes, it will be interesting to learn about the springer operation of the seat post in a future episode. Always get just a little bit excited when I see a new video from you! I like the older big twins very much, but to be honest I've always had a penchant for an iron-head Sportster, as I grew up watching 'Then Came Bronson'...loved that program! It was my inspiration for getting into motorcycling! Maybe I'll score an old Sportster one day just to tinker with. All the best to you and God bless. Regards, Mitch
Cool. My uncle and I watched that show and it got me. In the first episode, going over the bridge in Big Sur. It got me to the point where I lived in San Luis Obispo and rode Big Sur all the time. I gotta take my dog up to show it to her.
Thanks Mike, Love these videos. I've been working on these things for 45 years but until now I've never seen a manifold done right. I usually stick my right knee under the carb, push down with my left elbow, wrap my fingers around it, and use my tongue...... well you get the point. I'm inspired now to go tear it apart. No help so I may still use my knee. Again, thanks for all that you do.
Thanks for showing how the Shovelhead manifold in installed and that seat post has a spring, I'm looking forward to seeing what that is for. See you on the next video.
Hey Mike, I just found your channel a month or so ago. I am a motorcycle , um, enthusiast my entire life and have always owned at least one bike since my mis-spent-teens. You are a natural in front of the camera and able to share your wealth of knowledge in a way that's easy to follow. Thanks fer takin' us along...
Hey Mike thanks for this video. Those little tricks make all the difference. I followed your advice and now have perfect manifold alignment on my 77 FXE. Luckily, I had an assistant
Hi Mike, nice little video, and nice to see one more part on the project bike. I had a little job on my twin cam, the nose peice on my rear head pipe broke loose , spot welds let go lots of disassembly and reassemble going on, nut back on the road again. Cheers and keep making vids!\
I have a 1977 Electra glide myself, 100% stock. when rebuilding the carb (Keihin), I also took the manifold off honed it and replaced the orings. and manifold. your right about an assistant, don't know how I did it myself, but I did, and no air leaks. you make it look so easy. great vid keep em coming
Man you are a wealth of knowledge and just about everything you do on these bikes can translate to alot of other models of harley. I appreciate your videos and watch them almost as soon as they are posted, saying hello from up here in Red Deer Alberta, Canada.
Hello Mr Mike how have you been?? Thanks because I'm learning how to fix and love motorcycle even more. I hope you and your family are ok. See you soon.
I'm getting so much good information from your channel thank you very much. My heads are on but the intake isn't and I thought you were saying at first that I was going to have to remove my head's to turn them a little to be able to put it on. Man am I glad that's not the case.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you for clarifying that. The basket case I got do have the heads bolted down already. I need to pull the heads I guess anyway to verify its stroked, and because the engine has sat for 10-15 years. But now I know the correct procedure when it comes time. Thank you!
I liked the video. 👍 I for one always use the Arlen Ness type brass clamps. These have a groove cast in them for the O-ring. Works for me. 30 years plus on the Pan, Shovel and Ironhead. That seat is for a K model, have one similar in the 1962 Ironhead. Comfy for about 150 miles, but I dont have a pogo stick 😉.
It’s crazy when you said a lot of people don’t put the support bracket on. I don’t think trusting just the clamps alone would be good enough. Bracket a must. Love the solo saddle, stay safe Mike.
Yo Mike, Thanks for ur videos, i inherited a 1982 FXRS from my godfather. Just started riding her and only after 500km she was eating a Valve and a piston, i´m on repairing her, couldn´t do it without your detailed, funny and extremely competent videos. - Fabian from Germany :-)
@@pacificmike9501 So we found it. I´ll share because it´s pretty rare and none of us has ever seen something like that. The bike was sitting for about 25 years in a shed. Throught not moving the engine the exhaust valve stood open, so there was pressure on the valve springs all the time. The valve springs took damage from that, they are much shorter that the other 6, that most likely caused that valve to start dancing around and finally block, break and kill the engine.
Hey Mike, I really enjoy your show! Its the only one I watch faithfully. My project bike is a 49 pan that I've owned since 1981. On your project bike with the pogo i heard you say going to ride distances well on mine along wi t h the buddy springs, I added a valve spring, between seat and frame. Worked good stiffed it up some and looked good! Keep up the good show and get back to some ole pan stuff.
Thank You. Glad to help. Mostly, I work on my stuff. And, being retired, I work on it as it comes up. My Shovelhead is my most serious roadbike. She needs attention, so, she gets it. More stuff, then, back to the Flathead.
Living close to a naval base & dockyard machine shops. It was amazing how many custom parts that 'The Queen ' made for our Sleds back in the 1970's and 1980's LOL. Respect from East Coast Canada. 😈
I was a salesman for a large injection molding facility in the seventies. Mold makers made approx. $40.00 per hr. The boss freaked out when he caught those guys huddling around one bench, where they were rebuilding a bent and broken 12" over front end off yours truly's '65 Pan. I didn't have the Navy for friends, but, they were good!
I can't wait to see the project bike done its looking to be a really nice one I like your style when it comes to Harleys I ride a sport touring bike but if I can ever find one I want to build an old knuckle head
Hi Mike i found a way to do orings easy. I push the orings up over the shoulders on the manifold then position and then push them off the shoulders into the grooves. That holds the manifold in position for the clamps. Works a treat and id been doing it the other way for years never again. This method is way too easy. It does not streatch the oring like some may suggest my shovel don't leak any more. Honestly i never put a manifold on so quick and easy in all my life.
I've been enjoying your channel (I did subscribe), quiet and informative. I watched this video last night, my old english MGA sports car has two SU carbs, very easy to work with. I have the S&S super E carb and manifold on my STD shovel ported Pan heads, the 1949 heads needed seats and were replaced. I don't have someone to hold the intake manifold but I found an old SK 1/2" drive 1 1/8" chrome socket fits nicely into manifold to hold it into the front head. The socket tapers down toward the open end. I put the rear clamp (slightly loose) and o ring onto the rear head spigot, roll the o ring onto the front head end of the manifold, put the manifold in place while using a flashlight to look inside and line up the rear o ring. Then insert the socket through the manifold into the front head spigot, making sure that the 1/2" opening of the socket has a flat side vertical, and tap it very gently in place, it holds it lined up perfectly. The rear clamp keeps the manifold lined up on the rear, then I can roll the front o ring in place and install the front clamp. Then it is just tightening the clamps as you do while checking with the flashlight and a finger to make sure the rear stays in place. When the clamps are snug I remove the socket with a small pair of water pump pliers with the long end in the 1/2" hole and the short end on the outside of the socket. Of course when I install the cylinders and heads I turn them while the bolts and nuts are still a little loose to fit the intake manifold for proper clearance before I torque them. My Pan is 88" and I did port the intake manifold a bit for better flow. My system may not work for everyone and I'm not trying to steal your thunder, but I didn't have enough enough hands so I created a work around. Now it is time to fix the pesky MDG transmission oil leak. I watched your video on that last night, very helpful, but neither of my slam hammers have a screw on the end like yours to pull the old seal. Looked in my old manual and Harley had a nice tool for that, probably un-obtainable now so I'm going to make one with several thick washers welded together with three holes drilled through for the screws to go into the seal and three bolts welded on that will reach my clutch hub puller, might work to pull it out straight and gently, I'll find out. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience, please keep them coming.
Long ago I was battling keeping my intake in place , and a well seasoned rider at a bike run talked me through using electrical tape after setting the orings then the clamps , it’s worked like a charm Besides the mount brackets 😂👍🏻 over kill
Thanks again for your time Mike. While watching this video series I have always been jealous of the dual plug heads on this bike. It is a dream of mine to one day be able to properly rebuild the motor of my 76 FLH and dual plug the heads in single fire mode. Would you consider going over the parts you have used and how you have them configured in the ignition system on this bike? Thanks again for your dedication to detail.
It really is dependent upon what you want and what you buy. Mine is a Dynatek computer programable single fire setup with two Dynatek coils. They fire independantly of each other. It is wired according to Dynatek's specifications.
I remember back in the 1980's one night at a biker bar on a hill (when the real one's still existed), a whole bunch of bike's were parked out front lined up down the hill road . We were outside and all the sudden we see liquid in a small steam going down the hill. It was gas. One of the guys there walked over and followed the gas stream to his chopper up the hill which previously did not have a manifold support bracket on it and his carb had been torn off by someone and a pickup truck sped out of the parking lot... Lesson i learned when i seen that: From that day on, I would never be caught without a carb support bracket.
@@pacificmike9501 I think it was all the S.T.D. beautiful manifold, wettin' the O Ring talk that got this ol' Catholic broad reminiscing. Haha. You started it Mike. 😊💙. Have a great Memorial Day!
Love these videos. I saw in the video, your oil cooler on the left down tube. I have a ‘83 flhp shovel head and was curious what brand oil cooler you have and how you install/route the oil lines. Again, love the videos!
Coolers come with instructions. This particular one is a Jagg brand and it was originally intended for a Twin Cam. I installed it my way. But, they simply go in series with the oil return line.
My cousin modified a set of Lycoming air craft manifolds clamps years ago. Now i can buy the type of clamp you are using he used a flat rubber strip he place over the O rings and you never had an air leak. My 72 has has the same manifold rings since I rebuilt it in 89.
Hey Mike, Thank you again for your time educating us. I have a 1980 FLH 93'' S&S Hotset up. To keep it short the bike was built many yrs ago. It runs very well, starts great cold warms up and seems healthy.. After a ride to where ever I'll turn the gas off before I even set the bike down on the jiffy. It could be short stop or along stop it doesn't matter. I'll turn the gas back on and go to start it and it runs and quits several times before finally doing what it should...Stay running. The fuel is boat gas with lead additives and runs perfect. I've been using this fuel for many years with an occasional carb adjustment. I also use solid lifters. Any ideas to why I have this occurring.
Hi Mike! Love your videos. How do you clean your parts? Your shovel is immaculate. If the opportunity arises, please do a video detailing your cleaning system! I think you mentioned alcohol and air in a past video, would love to know more!
Sometimes I use Gunk and a hose. I actually wipe down the outside stuff with a spray cleaner and rag. I bought the spray cleaner at the paint shop and it contains no silicone. Thank You.
Great stuff, Mike. Love your videos. Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge. You mentioned in your Linkert rebuilding video that you had previously covered the low and high speed needle settings for a Linkert, so you wouldn’t cover it again. Can you tell me which one it was? I can’t find it among the titles. Also, when you do the pogo stick video, please mention how you would shorten a pogo stick for a shorter rider. Thanks so much! Hope to see you and your dog someday out on the road.
I believe it was in our early stuff. We currently have about 100 videos up. If you have a computer, it's much better than a phone, go to our RU-vid site by typing in Pacific Mike. All of the videos are displayed there. Go through to the early ones at the very bottom. The tuuning and startup of the Knucklehead should show you what I think you're looking for. The seatpost will come up fairly soon.
Hello Mike, Thanks again for keeping me inspired to continue repairing my bike. I wish I knew the bending bolt trick back in the early 80s when I had my first Shovelhead. I struggled for hours one day trying to get the manifold to fit in/tighten correctly. Question; are the heads and rockers on that bike polished at all, or are they just super clean? Your engine has a really nice look to it. Take care, stay safe, and thanks again. Cheers!!
Thank You. The rocker boxes are polished. The heads are raw. The cylinders are painted.The tappet blocks are painted. The cases are raw. You take care.
Well well Mr. Pacific, it's nice of you to join us again lol hope your mouth is feeling better. I think it's fair to say we know where the Pogo stick came from haha Take care of yourself Mike
Mike, I have a 79 FLH-80 with a mikuni carburetor. I bought the bike about 4 years ago however have not had a ton of time to ride and I have had issue after issue with the bike. I currently have 2 issues going on right now. The first is I noticed the bike was running lean due to blue discoloration of the pipes. I tried tuning the carb but had no luck. I tested the intake manifold by gently spraying some carb cleaner between the manifold and the front head, while the bike was idling. It immediately idled down and stalled. I repeated the process on the rear head, same thing happened. I took this to mean I had an intake manifold leak between both heads and I need to replace the gaskets. I pulled off the carb and the manifold. I noticed the manifold does not sit perfectly between the heads, as you talked about in your video, I assume the heads must not have been aligned properly. I have the band type gaskets, so just to see, I put the intake manifold back on with just the band type gaskets (without the metal clamps), to see how much play there was. I can slide the manifold back and forth about ¼ of an inch. I assume the correct way to rectify this is to pull the heads and tighten them in the correct position, however I would like to avoid taking the heads off. If I put on new gaskets will it just continue to leak or are the band type gaskets a little more forgiving with the alignment of the heads and manifold? My second issue with the shifter rod, I know, sorry this has nothing to do with what you explained in the video. The foot shifter rod assembly is very sloppy. It looks like the pins and spacers are worn out. My dilemma is that the shift lever that connects to the shifter cover is behind the solenoid and the primary chain housing and I am trying to avoid removing that. I might be able to get at the nut to remove the shift lever by removing the oil tank. Do either of these have to be removed to get to the shift lever or can it be done without removing anything? What are your recommendations? Thank you for your time!
Man, you got classic 79 up Shovelhead issues. First, the manifold issue. If that's the proper manifold, those heads will have to be removed and reinstalled properly to line up with it correctly. Otherwise, vacuum leaks can cause serious damage. That shift linkage on the 79 up 4speeds is terrible. It will be sloppy. If you remove the trans, pull the lid and rebuild the linkage and shifter plate all the way through, it will be nice for a while and then loosen up and get sloppy all over again. It's maddening at best. Or, you live with it sloppy. I'd like to say, "I have a simple solution," but I don't.
Not much. Just fit the manifold as close as possible while installing the heads. A little dish soap onthe bands can help soften them up for installation. Again, I like pliable clamps to form to the spigots.
Mike I'm hoping you get a little happy with the explanation of how a SU carb works and how to tune during the installation. I have had one for my shovel for quite some time but no one seems to know much about them that I ride with. I currently run a harley CV and like it. My buddies run super e's and super e's. Just have some fun with that part if you would please.
Mike thank you for these videos. My dad let me take over his 81 low rider and I've been trying to learn to work on it myself. It blew a head gasket and when installing the heads I did not know to align the spigots to the manifold. My front cylinder burns rich and I suspect this is the problem. Can I correct it without completely tearing the heads out and replacing the gaskets?
When I took my 72 apart it had rubber bands with some kind of flat gaskets (2 on each side) that fit where the O-ring groove is. I'm confused on whether to put it back like it was or just use the O-rings like you did in this video. The flat gaskets are kind of hard and I don't see them for sale anywhere. It's and S&S intake. Thanks for all the videos, this is only my 2nd Shovel & the 1st is an 83 so that has rubber bands.
People do things for reasons and we come along later and don't always know what they're trying to accomplish. The rings were designed to fill the groove when putting together a manifold with an 0-ring groove to a head that is later and has no groove and used a band type seal. It's for mixing different years. The rings were originally produced by Rivera Engineering to be used in their SU to late model (Shovel) head setup. They work well. You install them to fill the groove, then put it together using the bands over them. Then comes the guy who didn't align his heads to his manifold during installation and he thinks he can seal it all up by using a bunch of parts. Personally, my preference is Shovelheads with 0-ring grooves, a matching manifold with the other halves of the grooves, a fresh pair of 0-rings and stainless steel aircraft type clamps. Of course it should all be aligned properly with the installation of the cylinder heads and intake manifold. Drag Specialties carries those clamps in their Old Book in the Pan or Shovel Carb section. They are supplied by S&S.
Boy I’ve fought with O rings before, just learned another technique 👍🏻 rolling up and dropping them on 👌🏻 , I’ll tell you I’ve ran with some old timers in Southern California now 30 years as I had iron heads and shovels , boy they’ve taught me a lot Like add some Electrical tape around the o ring area before the claps to hold the intake in place and help seal 😉 .. back when I thought using the O ring and wide bands then clamps was a good idea 🤦♂️😂 ..And getting WHAT THE HELL IS THAT !!! 😂🤣
Mike I’d like to share my manifold experience with you because I thought you might not have come across this. So my bike seemed to be leaking out of a manifold and I decided to change the manifold gaskets. When I took the clams off it and removed the old hardened rubber I found 2 tack welds to the cylinder head. Have you ever come across this? Seems like next time I change em i will have to bring out a dremmel tool to cut the tack welds.
Nice! Another great informative video! I must say, I'm really interested in learning about the spring mechanism and setup for the seat. I have a swingarm bike, but rigid framed bobbers with spring seats look so much better. All my biker friends advise against rigids if you're used to a swingarm. Never ridden a rigid, so I don't know myself. Do you have a preference? Looking forward to the next video. Be safe out there.
Sure. They are quite different. But, I ride my rigid frame Panhead all over the place. My rigid frame Knucklehead, not as much. I love them both. But the Panhead has an original spring post in it with a factory solo saddle. The spring post is the answer, but, you need a service manual. It's thoroughly explained and the adjustment diagram is quite good. But, it's where you start. I've ridden that Panhead off of some serious drops. The seat post never bottoms. It is set to my weight and is super comfortable. Gonna set up the big Flathead the same way.
@@pacificmike9501 fantastic! I've been considering hard taiiling mine and ditching the swingarm (after much proper and thorough research). You've given me hope in getting what I want out of my bike and a feeling that I won't have to sacrifice comfort and safety to do it. Thank you sir for the informative response. I tip my hat to you!
Awesome vid, say I like that crafty hand held ratchet u got there, never seen one of them before, what is that called and where can I get one of those? Thanks👍
Thank you for this video Mike! I believe I have watched all of your shovelhead videos while rebuilding my 76 FXE and this was the latest job I did with it. Although I kept checking the alignment of the manifold while torquing the heads and everything seemed fine.. Until it was time to install the manifold. I found that the manifold lines perfectly with the rear head but there is misalignment with the front head. Now if I have to take the heads loose and realign them can I use the headgaskets (james gaskets) and headbolts (also new ones) again or do I need new ones?
It's a simple press in once the inner primary cover is removed. I do install the inner primary on my 77 in one of our videos. Problem with that bearing is that it gets loose in the hole. Making punch marks around the inside of that hole will cause small amounts of material to rise in there so that when you press the bearing in, it will be tight. Be very careful. Support the housing from the inside while pressing the bearing or you can easily break it. Press the bearing by its face, clear out on the edges.
What year? 0-rings or tubular seals? The manifold must be fitted as the heads are being fitted. Rotate the heads as per the year specific service manual. Be sure and install new head gaskets.
You got it. Install new head gaskets if you have to take the heads loose. Heat cycle the engine and retorque when you're done. Torque the heads down according to Harley or head gasket specs. Run it up to operating demp. Let it cool down completely, then retorque the heads. Do this three or four times. then put a few hundred miles on it. Retorque again (after allowing to cool completely) and you're good to go.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you for your detailed explanation. Coincidentally, the same gasket was used as "Install Harley Davidson Shovelhead Cylinder Heads, Part 2". I was going to order the same thing but it's out of stock in Japan. Are there any other gaskets you would recommend? Based on your extensive experience, I would consider ordering from overseas if there is no other option. I apologize for bothering you again, but thank you for your cooperation.
Hey great job on the bike it's beautiful but quick question for you do you know where I can get a manual for repair manual sorry for a 1984 Harley Davidson Electra Glade
Morning Pacific Mike, If an o ring manifold has a intake leak can the shovelhead motor idle well and go down the road running without issues? Or in your experience what might one notice as symptoms? Thank u for these great DIY videos.
The existence of a manifold leak usually causes rough running at some point. One indicator is a dark spark plug in one cylinder and a light one in the other. Also, if the manifold hasn't been off in a long time, it would like new seals.
Curious. Why did you have the upper carburetor mount bolts in the manifold during the installation? It looks like they can be removed and installed with the manifold clamped to the heads. If so, that's the kind of thing that I would almost surely drop during the handling of the manifold. Ol' butterfingers.
They are a little difficult to install. There is a very tight radius by the bolt heads. They are special bolts, 5/16" bolts with 3/8" hex heads. I just leave them in.
We never called them "hybrids." So think of it this way: You've got a gizzillion miles on your Panhead. She's due for another top end job. Somehow, you score a Shovelhead topend (The hiway patrol was always doing NEW topends on them). We used to figure you picked up 5hp at about 60mph. So, it was an easy choice. That was, putting a Shovelhead topend on a Panhead lower. But a 66-69 is Not a Pan-Shovel. It was born a Shovelhead in Milwaukee.
Hey mike,, great page with very useful info. Now to my question” 1976 flh stock with a s&s super E. Runs great but when I come to a stop , it won’t idle down to the correct rpm( 1000). I have to drag the clutch to pull the engine down so it will idle correctly. Would it be the advance on timing? Checked jets and they are correct for north Cali altitude. 2400 ft above sea level. Checked for intake leak and seems to be none. I know super E’s are finicky and set the carb to s&s specs. What’s your opinion? Thank you and see you on the road👍
Most likely, it is timing, but, it does sound like you're using S&S instructions, and they are very thorough. Just remember, all engines can vary slightly. Therefore the recommendations are an approximation. I don't know what kind of ignition you are using. If you are running advance weights, check them to see they are in good shape and moving freely. Perhaps you are running a little too far advanced.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you. Running points. I’ll check the weights again and time it once more. Last time I used a timing light so I could of been a little advanced. Thank you for replying so quick. Again’ love your page
Hi Mike awesome vidoes, you seem to really know your stuff. not related to this video but i have a 1982 shovel with a 96" sidewinder kit and solid lifters. my tappet blocks are leaking and i have to replace the gaskets. i was wondering if i can just remove the whole block with the tappets inside still to replace the gasket?
Yes. There is a two legged magnet made for that purpose. Or, take two fingers and squeeze the two lifters toward each other when you lift out the lifter block and lifters together.
@@pacificmike9501 sorry to bother you again, when i was taking my push rods out i heard a grinding sound and it didn't want to turn over. turns out after pulling apart my primary 2 of the magnets have come loose from the rotor. the 22 amp ones look so thin these days as mine looks to be 3/8" thick at the spline. would it be worth it to upgrade to a 32 amp for a pricey purchase. the drag specialties make a nice thick one with the magnets behind stainless steel. or just get the thinner one with the exposed magnets? i bought this bike from my dad, after my uncle passed he inherited it. its been in the family for years, my dad sold it to him 25 years ago and it was the first bike i ever got a ride on. problem is my uncle has done so much to it and im trying to figure out whats been replaced and with what. It makes for alot of tinkering but ive enjoyed every bit of it. just figured i give its story it started as a decker and now its the bike in my profile pic.
I had an bright idea once with my twin fire original shovel ignition & spliced the leads to satisfy my non original twin plug heads , man I got the sweetest potato potato note . . you could imagine , for a while & then the stock coil shit itself (electricity is't like water apparently & it just goes to ground from the shortest t route ) . . still chasing that note though
I originally (way, way back), ran dual plugs with an original points and condenser ignition. I had dual high performance coils (what was available in the day) and had a Mallory condenser mounted to each coil. That's as much as I remember about it, but, it worked well.
Hello Mike :) Great Videos ! Thank You :) i noticed on this manifold you lubed the o-rings with spit and in the panhead intake video you used dish soap ! is one way better than other? just didnt know if there wasnt any soap handy or not? also i have the solid clamps with 2 screws ! should i buy ones like yours or keep trying to use 2 screw solids ? thankz for your time :)
You know, it probably was how I felt that day. I usually spit on the round 0-rings, but the Evos and Twin cams slide in sideways and need that soap to slide on. Soft (aircraft type) clamps really seal more easily than those hard two piece units.
I like the feel of wrenches, ratchets and nuts and bolts. I like really nice fasteners and don't like to knock the corners off of chrome. Most of the fasteners on motorcyles are in plain sight. I pride myself in the appearance of the finished product. I have quite an assortment of tools, manual and power.
