In our last video, we put a new starter crank gear on Fred's Panhead kickstarter. Now we're going to install the kickstarter outer assembly and hook it all up.
Mr Mike thank you for educating me. There are fewer people in this world who can or will take the long way out. You have and by You Tubing, it will carry on after we are gone. You are the best.
Mike, I literally just did this on my panhead with the same problem of the kicker arm not sitting straight up. I had to grind both that gear tab, and the metal stopper in the case. It worked great and left enough meat on both parts to stay functional. Great work, see you out on the road!
The Art Department has a really sweet scoot! .. That's some good detective work on the why's of that kicker gear being ground down, due to a mis-machined aftermarket kicker arm. Pacific "Sherlock Holmes" Mike! :) Take care, guys!
He y Mike, learned two things with this vid, line the clutch rod up on kicker side and insert, and it apparently was not normal for my kicker to be at the 11:55 position. To me, it looked more aesthetically pleasing and worked fine.
Really appreciate your videos. Other day was watching an older one of you doing a mouse trap adjustment. My case a little different in that I'm doing it on my 67 FLH. Electric start primaries throw another wrinkle into it. I wasn't happy with clutch engaging until hand lever completely out so started from scratch on readjustment. Haven't had chance to road test as weather turned to crap. Any insights greatly appreciated. BC
Just remember; Every time you make a change to a finished adjustment, you'll need to start from the beginning again. But, once you get it right, you will love it, and you will have learned something to be proud of.
Before adding those washers try the adjusting screw in the very center of the clutch to get the proper clearance between the tranny top and the clutch arm. That’s what that adjusting screw is for.
A few years back Tatro Machine had a video showing where he had to grind on the reproduction kicker gear just so it would mesh better. It would dig into the riveted piece if it was not done and cause a failure sooner. Maybe that is what was done in your situation.
Nice bike! . . . just needs a tiny little stone figurine, hand carved from Dazaph marble. - although, being then known as 'The Stone Dazaph Art Dept.' may not sit too well eh? Could the odd angle on that kick-start lever be to clear a sidecar mount or something? (Wouldn't be needed here, we keep our thrones on the left, easier to draw a sword etc.) Outside the window? . . . sunshine & showers, gusty & bright . . . a beautiful Spring day. Sherwood is busy renewing her summer gown, #'As the brown twigs, turn to green.'# : )
The reason that reproduction kicker arm is off center is because it was made that way. I'll be speaking with the manufacturer on Tuesday. Glad you're having great weather. Ours is pretty good here. Sounds like Spring. Enjoy all the beauty of it.
Suitably beautiful bike for the art department. Does this bike have a suicide clutch? I ask because the crossover rod looks unusual (to this younger rider).
Was 'net surfing for shovelhead info and found your channel, Mike. Really well presented videos with good camera work. Have a question. 30 years ago my 1984 FLH developed piston slap due to a connecting rod that hadn't been stress relieved (it showed no signs of being shot peened, an AMF leftover?). Jim Thompson in Dedham MA did a great rebuild but I screwed up when I asked him to polish the cases and heads. I got a great looking show motor but would like it to look stock again. What's the best/right way to return heads and cases to their sand cast finish? I'm guessing 80 grit carbide in the blast cabinet would give me enough of a "pitted" look that it'd look like a sand casting again, instead of smooth glass. That means a complete tear down and reassembly. Again! Rough scotch brite would dull the polished surfaces but wouldn't restore any semblance of sand cast finish. Anyone astute would recognize the surfaces weren't original. And I want to get my original look back. And my hair too, but that's a different channel. Thanks, Mike. Keep up the good work. (I don't know how to make paragraphs in the comments, sorry)
I've had this problem before. You'll have to experiment around, different grit, different pressure... Use another unpolished piece to compare it to as you experiment. I quit using strong abrasives on crankcases quite a while back because I didn't want anything trapped in the passages. Nowdays, I use baking soda blasting. It gives a nice looking clean finish that doesn't change the texture. But, you're trying to restore the texture. Soda blasting would dull it down, but it would be a nice even finish.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks so much for responding, Mike, and so fast, too! I've given this some more thought. Even if I went to, say, 40 grit silicon carbide in the blast cabinet, I'd get a nice rough finish but I'd never get the thousands of tiny little bumps that are present on bare, unpolished heads and cases. Those bumps are most prevalent in small corners and pockets. You don't really see those bumps from, say 5 or more feet away, but you'll see them when you're either inspecting the bike for purchase or when you're working on the bike, sitting on your rolling work stool. The best I can do is rough it all up by hand starting with 80 or 100 grit paper in overlapping circular motions, followed up by rough scotch brite, working down to less rough scotch brite. Roughing up the fins and oh my, down to their bottoms! would be a real bear; even more so trying to make the sandpaper marks disappear and leave just a rough finish. D*mn. I devalued my bike by not knowing what I had. That was around 1999 or so, before I realized what the h*ll I was doing. Anyway, Mike, great channel and thanks for taking time to answer my question.
I'm sorry, but my bikes with polished cases are fine. I don't clean them as often as I should, but you can see there's a lot of love put into those cases. If you'd be satisfied with just a rough finish, try very coarse sandpaper and tapping it with a hammer. An fantastic old craftsman I really miss used to do that to blend cases where he welded them. You couldn't tell he'd ever been there.
Hey mike, I wanted to ask you, I have a 1977 lowrider, and seem to have to replace the small throwout bearing way too often, maybe because of the heavy duty clutch. JP cycles has a conversion kit to the older style throwout bearing like the one on this pan. Do you know anything about the conversion and are you able to either recommend it or recommend against it?
@@pacificmike9501 I managed to get one that was only off a little bit. If you look at the unit with the crank pointing straight up, the square section need to have the corners straight up and down as well.
Hey Mike I noticed yesterday while putting in a new ignition that my cam rotor is sitting in the cam case a little crooked almost like the cam itself isn't straight do have any idea what might be going on?
I'm assuming you're speaking of a "cup" type unit for an electronic ignition. If so, it's just sheet metal and probably bent. If it's a points ignition and you're speaking of the points cam, then the bolt that goes through it is bent. Let me know and we can easily fix it either way.
Then the "cup" is probablt bent. Install a new one carefully in its proper position. It is formed to go on one way. Look it over carefully and you'll see where it fits into a groove on the cam. Check your ignition instructions to get the right cup.
What, no white lithium grease on that gasket, Mr. Mike? You use that stuff on everything! ( just kidding, Brother) Nice job. As far as the washers go, we don't "fudge" things, we "finesse" things, right? Take care
@@pacificmike9501 there was a gent gassing up his 35 VL near our home in Alberta, Canada. The bike hadnt run for 75 years until he aquired it 5 years ago and it retains the original paint etc.
Straight edge across the center of the float to the edge of the body where the cover bolts on. Contact American Prime Manufacturing for instruction sheet. ben.kudon@americanprimemfginc.com
