Did this video help you out? Buy me a beer🍺by going to rvwithtito.com/victron and using my preferred supplier for your Victron gear and to rvwithtito.com/battleborn for lithium batteries. Cheers! (BTW: This was NOT sponsored so every bit of support helps)
@@bobmakow55 That is really going to depend on what additional Victron equipment you choose for your system. Interface cables will probably be needed. At a minimum you should get a USB interface cable so you can program the Inverter from your computer.
*A quiet **Generater.Systems** , love the dual fuel capabilities, camper is 50 amp but the adapter helps and found it still handles the load. Haven't taken a camping trip yet, that's in a couple of weeks. Will see how well it does over a long weekend.*
We have used the ru-vid.comUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
I initially used the Victron 3000W and AM Solar "Smart Phase Selector" for my 50A RV and I've had nothing but problems over the past year. I would constantly lose one side of the panel and at times, both sides. The two were not happy together. I was so happy to see Victron release this new model that I immediately purchased it and removed the extra component. You made a great choice.
That's also what I've heard from an installer friend about the phase selector. Thanks for confirming. Agreed....this inverter is a very welcome upgrade. I'm glad I waited.
Hello from the high desert of New Mexico USA 🇺🇸. Great job Brian on the installation. That's the inverter that I want to get for my 1967 GM TDH-4519 city transit bus but I just don't have the money for it and my old AGM batteries took a dump on me so I really need to get batteries first because I live in my bus full-time and don't have any power when the sun goes down. Keep up the good work and stay safe and God bless you and your family and America 🇺🇸
My two RV hero’s are Bryan and James at the FitRV. Amazing knowledge and fantastic educators. RV manufacturers need to hire you guys as consultants not just influencers.
Cannot agree more. Thank you for taking the time to walk through step by step in your shop and out in the RV. Will you be installing surge protector before your Mulltiplus II?
Such a well made and easy to understand video, thanks Brian for the awesome content! I've been looking through a bunch of resources to try to understand how this device works but no one seems to be able to explain it in non-electrical-engineer terms. Thanks again :)
This is exactly the device I want for exactly the same reasons. Thank you so much for the clear explanation of what it's doing and how. Now to figure out the solar part.
I just installed the same inverter. Took my first trip last week with it. So far I love it! Be sure to install the temperature sensor and turn on the function to stop charging during freezing temps. To do that, you have to turn on lithium battery mode. Can't wait to see your final setup.
I did program the low temp cutoff. It's using the temp sensor in the Smart Shunt which is located right next to the batteries. I also have a high-temp switch on a fan behind the inverter to pull hot air out when it gets warm in there. Thanks for the suggestions.
I too installed this inverter and 712 and color control. My BattleBorn batteries are inside the heated fifth wheel. So I didn’t enable this setting. The likelihood of them being that cold is very rare especially if you live in San Diego. Also battle Born batteries BMS will protect them from cold temperature charging. The 712 will report the battery temperature via the color control or phone app. So this setting doesn’t always have to be set. Depends upon your installation and camping style. I guess it couldn’t hurt.
Another great episode Tito! You did not mention that if you are just plugged into a 30A socket that the inverter can 'boost' the AC power to 50A to power the entire coach (water heater, dual roof ac, etc) using power from the battery bank which may also be supplied from solar panels. Victron equipment with the Cerbo, Touch 50, BVM712, is just so easy to work with and reasonably priced (compared to some of the Xantrex stuff which seems to be VERY expensive).
Thanks Jared. It's a great inverter as you know :) and easy to setup. Your videos about it were very helpful as well. I'm working on getting the rest of the videos edited and published. System is working great.
great explanation- sounds like the inverter has brain to do what a person had to manually do before. have a great 2022- healthy mostly and happy usually 😜
Nice work and explanation Brian. Watching your videos has helped me with a lot of my RV projects. I had weight limitations so went with two 100 amp Battle Borns and a Victron 2000 inverter for our 30 amp RV. Works like charm and my wife is happy with her coffee when boondocking. Will go with something like your new set up when we upgrade our 5th wheel in a few years. Thanks for paving the way! Happy New Year!!
That's probably the best explanation I've seen out there! Victron should hire you to do some of their videos (their site is terrible!) I would love to see a system like this that also acts as a charge controller, I think that might help justify a bit of that cost -- They're pricey little pieces!
Thanks so much. I see arguments both ways. Personally I prefer separate components instead of having the charge controller as part of the inverter. It limits the flexibility of your design.
Can I use the multiplus 2 on 30a service and just use one leg? I am going to eventually going to upgrade to 50a but want to buy the Victron now; however, I dont want to spend the money on a multiplus then have to buy the Multiplus 2.
Sure can. I rarely plug in anymore and when I do it's usually only 15A. The Multiplus will split the output across both legs if you have them both wired up. If not then just wire up L1, neutral and the ground. 👍
Hey. Also the quirkie thing you may discover with the Cerberus is that you cannot trigger a relay with the temp sensor. Example. I have a fan that kicks on at 90. Had to do it with separate unit. This is a programming issue that victron has not done. Thanks again
Would love to tackle this job, but completely electrically ignorant. Your fit and finish is beautiful, I think that takes some artistic knowledge. I can't draw a stickman! Have all the tools though.
Dude great job! Looks very professional. Well explained I understand all of the functions i would need now! My only question is do you have to do anything special when you connect shore power? Or does it auto register that you added input?
It's automatic. Once the inverter detects split phased shore power, it automatically switches to AC pass through mode. The system is very programmable and there are a few related settings that will determine how that is done.
Good information Sir . I just purchased the exact components that you just installed but I do not understand why you ran your Shore and generator into the existing transfer switch because that inverter already has it's own built in transfer switch . Please explain and thank you.
The two transfer switches serve different purposes. The RV's Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) switches between generator and shore power coming into the RV. The Inverter's transfer switch handles the switching between incoming AC power (from the ATS) and inverter power. That incoming power could be from shore power or from the generator (hence the other transfer switch).
One of the best install videos I’ve seen. I also liked how you pre-wired the battery input and output before installing the inverter. Can’t wait for the next video. We have a Winnebago Vista 30T and would like to do a very similar set up.
Brian, I've used several of your innovative construction mods: flexible panels with t rails, aluminum angle cages for batteries and others. In 2020, I went with an entire Victron system for my class C Navion: 640w on roof, 400w Aux on ground, 4 MPPTs for max efficiency of shading, DC to DC converter, and lots of new increased gauge wiring to meet safety. Then installed the 12vdc dual compressor NOVAKOOL refrigerator. We're 30 amper So went with the multiplus 3000. I've not had a moment's problem and Think Victron is the gold standard for RVs and sailboats.
Looking good. I like the blue wire cover ... My system is much smaller ... and using a victron solar and dc to dc ... but not hooked up. I'm using a measly 200 amps... which is okay for my mini motorhome.. just trying to decide if and when to use an inverter.
Option 4 is run an extension cord from your inverter to a 50 amp outlet near your inverter then put a jumper wire from one leg to the other leg on the 50 amp outlet then plug in your shore cord into the 50 amp outlet. The inverter then sends 120v to both legs on your panel.
Unbelievable timing, Thank You!! I noticed our 4 golf cart battery cases bulging a couple weeks ago. We just got this inverter, a Cerbo GX, and 4 SOK 206AH lithium batteries to replace those batteries and our Magnum ME2012 inverter/charger. I'm hoping the install is "plug and play". I see that you use a bus bar for your batteries. I'm staying with 2/0 welding cable. Can you recommend a hydraulic crimper?
You should be setup well with those batteries and the multiplus. Here's the crimper I used: amzn.to/3ziuQtQ It worked pretty well up to 4/0. Good luck with your upgrades!
You need to make is very clear that not all MultiPlus-II Inverters, actually work like your Inverter. You have a *special* MultiPlus-II, called the MultiPlus-II *2x120* . That is the only model of MultiPlus-II Inverter that supports the automatic switch-over between 50 Amp Split-Phase and 30 amp Single-phase.
I have a 6000 watt inverter that powers my motor home. I can run everything in the motor home, just not at the same time, I play "green acres". I have 4350 watts of solar panels and 15,360 watts of battery storage. If I were to do it again, I would have bought an 8000 watt inverter.
I am working on installing my Victron MP II 12V 3000VA but it is going into a fixed location, a radio shack for ham radio. I am having to think quite a bit and look forward to getting it going. Later I will put some solar... it is a much smaller capacity than yours... I am doing the 400Ah minimum that the V manual states and can grow it later. I am going to use it with 120 30 in and later when 50 amp service is available put both in.
So if I have a 50 amp system and use a dog bone to 30amp, will both L1 and L2 still have 120vac just be in phase? Same with generator running, would L1 and L2 be hot? I heard it will see them as in phase and shut down L2, is that true?
Yes. It will be single phase on L1 and L1 coming in, but I believe the inverter detects single phase and only looks at L1. It will then branch it internally to both L1 and L2....I think. In either case, the inverter treats it as a pass-through.
My question is normally you would have two AC panels one being powered by inverter either in pass through or when inverter is turned on. It looks like the open hole above the panel you wired into may have been that panel. How are you powering all those circuits that the old inverter powered.
These large hybrid inverters are designed to be full house inverters managing and switching between shore, generator and battery power sources. It's what we prefer since we RV solely off-grid and don't plug in. Some might consider this type of configuration a bad thing...a single point of failure. Do you lose power to the entire RV if your inverter fails? Actually, yes. That's something to consider. It's why we chose to spend more money on a high quality unit like this Victron Multiplus II. It's well tested and very robust. Not to say that this too won't fail. It just hasn't. We've been running it 24/7 for the last year without a hick-up. So far so good. I used to carry a spare pure sine inverter...just in case. But I no longer do. What you are describing is how it used to be when inverters were smaller and didn't have hybrid functionality. Of course you could still setup your system that way with dedicated inverter circuits. The 200W inverter I ripped out of the 03 Winnebago only powered the TV and an AC plug in the cabinet. I rewired that plug to tie into the main AC service. Hope that helps.
@stevekrud2715 The MutltiPlus-II *2x120* ( in ths video ) is rated at 3,000VA. Which is only 2,400 Watts continuously. It will *not* run everything in a 50 Amp RV. Probably not even 50%.
You do a great job here i thank you . curious i also have a scimarine system in place and want the mutiplus . Question did you keep the scimarine and did it connect with victron well.
I love watching your videos. I would love to chat with you if possible. I have some questions since your rig has basically the same chassis as mine (workhorse W22). My electrical panel is in the rear of the coach, basically directly above the transfer switch. My plan is to mount the Multiplus II on the roof of the bay and route my cables straight up to the panel.
Great explanation, but you skipped what might be one of the best features of that inverter, power boost! Being able to mooch dock on a 15 or 20 amp shore line but power an AC and a microwave intermittently or run 2x ACs off a 30A shore line is THE reason to get that unit over some of the other solutions IMHO.
The inverter/charger and solar charging are separate systems. So no change needed unless you have victron gear and want to monitor everything through a Cerbo GX.
Isn't that same effect as using the 30A male -to- 50A femaie Dog Bone? Why do you need a Transfer switch? Either way, you have the same problem when there is NO AC power input ... The Victron is running on the Battery Bank only, now how do you bridge the Victron L1 & L2 outputs? The Victron has OPENED both L1 & L2 inputs removing your bridge between L1 & L2.
I'm not getting 240v when on solar, just 120v. So it would only be possible when running from the shore power or generator with a bunch of rewiring. For me, I'd go for a 12V mini split instead.
Great Video Appreciate the time taken to lay it all out and in a segment.I was wondering what level of charge this Victron will be able to charge Lithium when hooked to shore power ?
Just started this journey for my 5th wheel (ie meaning just started researching on how to do all of this DIY) your explanations have been great. Really appreciate this content. Thank you for sharing.
Brian, as always, you can take the technical aspect of your RV upgrades to a lay-mans understanding. Thank you for all of your videos, I look forward to seeing your next project. Also, thank you for the Solar downloads that you have provided on your web site. I installed a 400 watt solar system on my RV two years ago, and it works OK, but, I do want to upgrade to lithium batteries and more solar. Now I can compare that to your solar diagrams.. and feel confident in my upgrade. Take care, wish you and your misses the best.
Great description of how the pass-through split-phase inverter works. I have had trouble describing how this works on my RV. In order to run my air conditioners (one at a time) from my battery bank I also had to do a full rewire of the electrical distribution panel. Right now we are dry camping in an area that is still 75-80 degrees at night and we run the air conditioner from our battery bank all night recharging the battery bank from the solar and generator the next day. Sadly our 1800 watts of incorrectly angled solar panels can't keep up with our air conditioner use.
Great video. It is well done. I noticed you using copper straps and buss bar mounts. I couldn't find any of these items for my build, so I used cable and lugs, some of which are 4-0 which is so clumsy to work with. Where do you get your copper buss supplies?
I’m assuming the RV didn’t have an existing inverter? I’m in the process of upgrading mine on my 2000 Fleetwood Class A. It has existing setup so I’m just swapping and didn’t have to replace wiring. I wanted to use Victron but physical size of inverter was an issue. My big RV has the smallest spot for inverter but it makes sense given when it was manufactured.
Excited to see this series. It has always been fuzzy to me on how to accomplish this and properly interface with the other electrical systems on the RV. Looking forward to your next video.
Was it easier to take all wires from distribution panel, back to MultPlus vs taking output from your TS and connecting that to output of Multiplus. Then, you'd only have to wire from the output of TS to input on Multiplus. I did mine this way, but 3 years ago with a GoPower IC2000. Keep up the GREAT work. Maybe someday we'll bump into each other here in the PNW.
Depends where you mount the inverter. Mine was very close to the distribution panel with the ATS on the other end of the rig. If the inverter were closer to the ATS then your suggestion would be the way to go. Take it easy!
If the loads are 120V 60Hz and not 240v one inverter will be fine. Limit it with a circuit breaker. The split phase you speak of is more like balancing single phase loads than L-L . No you can use a single phase 8 KVA inverter and no "phase splitter" either just put both hots on the the circuit breaker on the load side. Victron is cool. Over priced though.
Love your approach. Would a multiplus eliminate the need for my rvs transferr switch and the converter boxes!? Would be nice to wite everything into the multi box. Fyi, i still have a generator in the rv, besides shore power inputs for ac.
Thanks Brian, one question, did you disable the converter charge wire to the batteries? Or doe both the inverter and converter charge the batteries? Thanks for the great instruction
Another great video and install. As usual, a couple of things for you. The 6 gauge wire you use for the AC panel is too small for the 50 AMP load. It appears the wire you pulled out is bigger. I used 4 gauge wire to wire my AC panel. If the transfer switch is original, replace it. I don't like automatic transfer switches anyway but they are a necessary evil. Check all the contacts inside yours, they may have burn marks on them. They can be cleaned up but I'd rather replace them. Better safe than sorry.
Thanks for the suggestions. The original wiring was also #6 so I kept it the same. Good note on the ATS. I also replaced mine when I found some burnt contacts. All good now.
It all depends on the ampacity of the wire used. Romex #6 can absolutely handle 50a. 8awg Ancor marine wire can handle 50a. I suggest you look up the ampacity table of your conductors before you make these kinds of comments
@@kirktruman6707 Nothing. The converter has been removed. There was a small inverter mounted up front that would power the TV. I removed that also. The new inverter powers everything AC and charges the batteries. The DC panel is powered by the same circuit. Take a look at my diagram I provided. It may help visualize things.
Hey tito. thanks for the video. 1- let me ask you about the, lets call it "controler power source" or what ever multiplus II needs to go to an ON stage. let me try to explain: I have a renogy inverter, and now upgrading to a multi plus the renogy receives the "controler power" from the batteries. if your battery lose charge completely (either litium going on sleep mode or AGM going very low), renogy inverter cant turn ON to charge the battery EVEN IF YOU CONNECT YOURSELF TO SHORE POWER OR TURN ON YOUR GENERATOR. so you get yourself into a situation where you have big AC power coming in the RV, but cant do anything. Cant charge the battery. cant use the short power. (i believe go power works the same way) I have always ask myself why the inverter cant use either/or: AC input OR DC input to at least go to minimum ON state. NOW: I see you have your Multi plus connected to AC BUT no DC. and you are working on it. BOTTOM LINE IS: DOES THE MULTI PLUS CAN USE EITHER/OR AC/DC TO POWER UP? 2- Did you used the hook to mount? or just screws? seeing my RV, it first vertically, but I think there wont be room to going up enough to hook it up. great videos. watching them all. THANKS!
Even if my class A RV runs on 30a, your approach and logic is very sound. I may have a few concerns of additional weight that will have to distributed evenly with the batteriea on both sides of the RV and how it influences your tire pressure levels but aside from that, it's very good.
Thanks for the explanation, Bryan. Seeing the wire install would've been nice. For some reason everyone just "explains" this part & skips over the filming. When that's the most important, in my opinion it's easier to understand. I have had to replace three inverters, and still I'm not comfortable when it comes to the wire install. I was hoping to see the order in which you've installed them. And, I'd love to see how to discharge any charge on the inverter and/or battery cables if there is any. Happy New Year! Christina & The Animal Love Fest ❤😽😽😽🐺🐰💋
Sorry I didn't show a lot of that. It's going to vary based on your rig and location of things. Plus those spaces are very confining. I didn't need to discharge anything when connections were made. No sparks.
Thanks, I really enjoyed your explanation. I am looking to get one of these to replace my xantrex 2000w inverter. When I bought my rv it was already set up with the inverter and the previous owner split off the circuits he wanted to be inverted. With this multiplus II could I simply run one of the outputs to that panel and then the second one to my regular panel and power everything that way?
Just found your video. I am installing the very same Multiplus inverter in my 50 amp camper. Noticed you used the very same power cable, which was re-assuring because I thought I made a mistake with that 6/3 with bare copper ground. AM Solar shows a 6/4 insulated ground in their tutorial. Question: What size cable did you use to ground the inverter/charger? Did you go right to chassis or back to the negative bus bar for that ground? If you went back to the bus bar, what size cable did you use from the bus bar to the chasis? Thanks!
Hi Brian, how did you fair out with the flexible panels and why aren't you using them anymore. I have an older Class A that we don't want to get rid of. It's all-aluminum, exterior, and the entire roof including welded aluminum frame structure. I really don't want to screw anything into it if you know what i mean. I found that coroplast with ethernabond tape a great idea. Was it?
The flexible panels work great on the class C. This is my favorite mounting system for that ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uJIEXhnF8MU.html I chose to go with large traditional panels on the Class A because I found a great deal on some large ones to maximize my solar intake. I could have certainly gone the flex route too.
Awesome Video!!! 👍👍 I've been holding off on a install in my Travel Trailer because I knew it was going to get to small for full time fast, I just traded it for a larger 5th wheel camper 👍 , the only thing I need to figure out is what to do with the 12v converter? Since it's needed to power everything 12v in the camper, the issue is it will also want to charge the batteries and it's not safe for the Lithium batteries. I'm not sure if I can just remove the circuit that's supposed to charge the coach batteries or I will need to replace it with a converter that's Lithium compatible? This technology is so far ahead of what the RV manufacturers are doing.
I am looking at the Victron Multiplus II inverter to replace my current inverter which shuts off when I'm running the A/C and the ambient temperature gets over 80 degrees F. My motorhome has 2 Coleman A/Cs and both have Easy Starts. I usually only run one at a time unless the temp is over 90 degrees with high humidity. I have 1200 watt solar array on the roof and an 800 amp Lithium battery bank. I don't due very much dry camping except for when I'm traveling, but I have experienced several long shore power outages some lasting for several days. Have you experience any such problems when the ambient temp is high?
I have a tiny home, the incoming power is 30 amps 120 volt single Phaze RV post power outlet. I plug in an extension cord from a electrical panel that has two 15 amp breakers for the AC outlets. My hot water heater and mini split are 220 volt, but on their own power lines. If I bought this unit, would I be able to run it on 30 amp single phase unitl I'm ready to redo my incoming powerlines to a single 220 volt dual Phaze 50 amps? If so, once the 50 amps dual Phaze is available. I could change my electrical panel to a dual Phaze panel. Run my 2 15 amp breakers for the AC outlets, then 2 additional 220volt breakers for my hot water heater and my mini split?
2005 Monaco Knight, 50amp coach -- 4 wires into my surge protecter and into the transfer switch. When I pulled the line in from the transfer switch to the old Magnum ME2012 inverter/charger, it only has 3 wires. Monaco used a jumper on the Line In from line 1 to line 2. The Line Out cable from the inverter to the breaker panel is a 4-wire line. Can I use the same jumper arrangement they used for the Line In on my new Victron MultiPlus-II?
One thing you missed mentioning - the Multiplus II can 'boost' power - so if you have 30 (or 15!)A, you set that as your input - and if you 'use' more, the inverter will use the batteries, up to a 20A boost, to make things work. Great for moochdocking off a 15A cable at someones house for example :D
Hey Bryan I watched your video again this morning. I am impressed with your shop. I'm really interested in how you went ahead and benched test, configured, your inverter before install. I also have the MK3-USB and assumed ---- that with proper isolation of components I could wait until installation of the inverter and then the Cerbo GX /Touch 50 on account of the Lynx system. I was thinking as long as I had a long enough cable and a comfortable spot again I assumed----- Just thinking
You could certainly set it all up during install. It was pretty cold and rainy outside. So hooking it all up and testing it in the shop was better for me. Plus I could workout any issues ahead of time. Good luck!
Thank you very much, you explained everything and I acutally understood it. I could install a solar system now with the exception of the actual configuring of the monitoring setup. I was wondering, could you use one 12 volt 500 amp battery or combine two of them?
Tito, I love your videos. New RV'er here. I also have a Winnebago class a ('14 Vista 31ke) and a? running victron components (12/3000, cerbo gx, smart shunt and a 100/50 MPPT.). I just wanted to say I really appreciate all your videos, and I look forward to seeing the rest of this install. Even though I only have a 30amp set up, I feel this entire video is still very applicable. Cheers!
I have a Tacoma and a Bluetti AC200P. For maximum charging, do I get a DC to DC charger or a 1200W Inverter connected to the truck battery and then use two Bluetti power charging bricks (AC to DC) that deliver about 400W each (800W)?
Happy New Year Bryan, I've had the best Christmas cause my Victron components came in. Unfortunately I can't start the install till spring. I've just discovered your chapters and will be watching them next. So I don't know if you touch on this subject. My question is how do you address component chassis grounding? I'm a retired electrician and been following you and find your installation to be very workman like. Thank you for sharing 😊
Sorry. I didn't show it, but I did also ground the inverter to the chassis. There's a grounding post inside. I ran a cable from there to the negative busbar which is grounded to the chassis.
Ok , offgrid cabin . Solar 30amp 30amp sinle pole breaker hooked to side B Genorator 40amp 240v . Wired int a home breaker box , Genorator hooked to main breaker suppling power to A n B sides . So this enverter would allow me to take battery power and Genorator power IN , and send double phase power to main breaker . Supply power to A n B . And the enverter would do the automatically switch . Fallow , then I would be able to balance the load , and could use 240 for my well pump .?
Thanks. Two questions. 1. On a 3K inverter are you concerned about inrush current frying your battery BMS? 2. Have you had any issues with inverter high temperature warnings/shutdown with the Multiplus installed in a relatively confined space?
1. Haven't had any issues, but I'll keep an eye on it 2. I installed a cooling fan with programmable temp switch behind the inverter that will vent the compartment when it heats up.
Hello, i enjoy your channel alot. Lots of great info. One question i have, i put in a lithium converter/charger last year in my rv. If I get one of these multi plus 2 units, it will also replace my converter charger right?. Thanks for any info.
Enjoy your channel immensely. Helped me with several projects. BUT I couldn’t find a video about insulating the underbelly of a Class C. We’ve done some winter camping in or minnie Winnie 25b. I have been considering installing foam board underneath it to help conserve heat and cool. For example the rear cargo holds are just plastic tubs exposed directly to elements and there are large areas that are bare subfloor exposed. All waterlines run inside so it would seem to be just a process of jenga with foam boards to create an additional barrier. I didn’t know if you have enclosed or insulated anything. I know you’ve done cold weather camping so I figured I’d ask?
Hi Brian, Great explanation. You sure have great ideas on how to put things together. I installed the Victron 3000 with the SPS in my class A last year just before the Victron II and the new Battle born GC2's came out. It seems I'm always a day late and a dollar short :-). I had problems with my SPS as well. It turns out it can only be installed in a few positions or the contacts will stick. I am curious on what you have heard are the problems with the SPS. Thanks T
I don't have any direct experience with the SPS, but I have an installer friend who has installed several for clients. Many of them would start to cut out on one of the two legs for whatever reason. So they stopped installing them or removed them from those rigs.
Hello Brian Happy New year to you and the family. Hope for the best in new year. Excellent and detailed explanation. I really enjoyed it. Just let you know that I bought the Multiplus II just like yours last September for my 2007 Fleetwood Discovery 39V. But did not have enough time to install yet. I have to wait till May or June when weather is good. Around my farm in Alberta last night the temperature was -40C. I will be waiting for your video of progress. I think that your electrical system and my class A system are very similar. I learned quite a bit from your video. Good luck.
Not to happy with Victron my 150/100 charge controller went code 116 and everything is down,now the waiting game begins if and when it will be replaced. Only 8 months old. Nice install though......
Thanks for the great videos! I’m upgrading my 30a RV that only has a converter - I’m now wondering if my decision to purchase this exact inverter is appropriate? If you have an opinion please let me know.. thanks again
