When you were testing the frog polarity with your meter set for AC I first thought he messed up. Than I realized by doing so you didn’t have the negative symbol interfering with the test which would be aggravating. Smart idea.
I'm looking forward to the install of the control panel because if someone asks me a good way to do so, I'll be able to either tell them or guide them to your video to help them get it right the first time.
Larry I replaced the suitcase connectors with all the t tap connectors with insulated spade connectors so I can easily remove them All feeders and lightits have those connectors. Always informative video s thanks for sharing.
Another great 'How to' Video, on reflection would you opt for different Colour Suitcase Connectors when connecting to the +ve and -ve Bus Power Cables? Trust you keeping well and stay safe.
A better way may be to trace around the machine then come back and pre drill the holes. Pre mount two of the screws then slide the machine onto the screws the mount the other two screws.
I am NOT an electrician but I am able to wire residential applications. I have built and wired several houses and numerous additions. Initially I was opposed to suitcase connectors because they are not recommended for residential use. Since doing further investigation I am not in favor of suitcase connectors. While they are not strictly legal for household electrical use they are more than good enough for anything you do on your layout. I would say that you should not use them on any 110v (Really 120v, I know, I know) circuits. But the low voltage of the layout itself, GREAT IDEA!
Zip wire has a ridge on one side so you can wire like the phone co. does r,r,r red, ridge rear. And you can be color blind and get it correct. Just a thought for new guys.
Fact: It is much cheaper ($) value and easier if use (Telephone) or (RJ-45) wires. Try This: * Use thinner manageable telephone or rj-45 wire. * Use telephone gel connectors.
Never had a failure either using a suitcase connector. Yes had failures on items that vibrate or move as in a car, motorcycle, RC plane but not on something like train layouts that do not move or vibrate. In that case solder it, don't use a suitcase or butt connectors.
Hi Larry. Another outstanding video! Could the power to the frog be accomplished by jumping terminals 1 & 8 to the input terminals (either 2&3 or 6&7) on the tortoise?
That would depend on how you are controlling the Tortoise. In some cases the current would be limited if you are using LEDs wired into the Tortoise feed for showing point orientation. If you are using a switch alone then it might be OK. When using a accessory decoder then the output capacity would also be a factor.
The iPhone was apparently set to reverse the front camera image. After completing the video I discovered this and turned mirroring off so next time it will be clockwise. As I said up front this was my first time using the iPhone fir this so a learning experience.
The only thing you can do is solder the frog feeder wire to the side of the frog. I have done that in the past to old Walthers/Shinohara turnouts. You have to be very careful not to melt the ties and spikes holding the frog in place and I usually put the feeder on the side away from the aisle to disguise it.
I noticed you connected the Tortoise switch machine to your power bus. Is that the same power bus wire that you connect your track feeders to? Just curious as I remember reading the instructions and it said not to connect the switch machine to track power
I think you are not looking close enough. The wires powering the switch machines are not attached to the DCC power bust, only the SPDT switch that powers the frog. The wires that power the actual switch machine are either attached ti an accessory decoder or to a special control circuit. You need to watch ore of my videos on building control panels and installing switch machines.
Larry, I would suggest an easier way to do this. I use DCC Ip digitals which are automatically centered when purchased, I use the stick-on pad supplied with the switch and mount them on a small piece of ply with the four screws. I then mount the switch to the layout using 2 screws through the plywood block. I have the wiring attached to the switch machine prior to mounting
Yes, I have a dozen or so iP Digitals ready to go on a couple of projects however I bought 2 dozen Tortoises a few years ago and need to use them up, plus more folks still use Tortoises. The good news is DCCconcepts’ Chinese factory have finally been able to ship them iP Digitals for the first time in about a year.
From about 1926 passenger locos were painted green and freight black. Then when diesels came in freight were black and imitation aluminum whereas passenger locos were green and imitation aluminum. In 1949 all diesel locos were painted green and imitation aluminum. After 1958 all locos were painted black and imitation aluminum except for passenger locos which after about 1975/6 went back to green and imitation aluminum.
There are those who do not want to deal with the extra effort, or use hand operated throws, etc. I only have a few on my layout in places where a Tortoise is not used or inadequate.
I thought that you had to use the color green for all frog wires :) Out of curiosity, what is the wire color scheme that you use on your RR? I have been trying to keep consitent. Here is my scheme... DCC - Red/Black Frog - Green Blue/White - Feedback Yellow/Brown - 5v Bus Orange/Brown - 12v Bus