A video showing further progress on my woodshop build which includes installing Owens Corning Kraft R19 batt insulation in my 6 inch walls. I show a couple tips and tricks i learned while being a insulation installer out west.
Since I am the drywall person for my own job, I appreciate learning about side-stapling. Thank you for making the effort to publish such a helpful video!
This was really helpful, man, thank you! I’m finishing a 12x16 shed where we will run our embroidery business for a few years and I’m doing it all myself. Thanks for the tip on working around the outlets.
Thank you for the video there are lots of these on RU-vid but I really liked your down to earth presentation, gave me the confidence to attempt to insulate my garage!
@@kyleheidenreich2848 we put down the plastic we were told it's a moisture barrier, our supply house that we ordered from included it with our order of batts we went knauf R21
This was very helpful. Love the better mask. I looked for an affiliate link for it, you should get credit for that. I found both the RZ mask and an insulation knife on Amazon thanks to your recommendations. Since this is the first time I will install insulation and at the cost of materials and heating, I want to be sure to do it correctly. Thanks!
Thanks and much thanks for watching! RZ has a newer version available from what I have noticed online! Love their masks! Just take your time and the key is not compressing the insulation in the wall. Obviously it gets compressed when you cut it but let it fluff back up and install it. Glad the video helped! Let me know how it goes or if you run into other questions! Have a great one!
Thank you! Yeah my building was the same way with the horizontal girts. The frame in took a little time but added some good strength to the interior wall and gave me enough space to put R19 in the walls. Probably a little overkill for a workshop but it held a good temperature all year round easily between doing the walls and R30 in the ceiling. Good luck with the project!
Great Video! I would be less concered about a 1/8 staple gap and more worried about 3/8 board warp and how flat the wall the studs were framed personally. If I'm doing it myself, its being done right and with a full vapor barrier. To each their own though.
I'll be doing this to the exterior walls of my in process basement finishing. My anxiety lol. Watching the faced rolled insulation going in has calmed some of my anxiety about the whole ordeal.
I have a shed with collar ties a few feet from the peak. The ties will be my ceiling are only 6”, not leaving me room for thicker ceiling insulation. Can I just put in thicker insulation having it rise above the ties? Or put in insulation that fits 6” and add insulation in top going in the opposite direction? Also I have peak/soffit ventilation and will be installing baffles. Do the baffles need to go all the way to the peak in an ungrateful attic type space?
In California the new code is the kraft has to be stapled to the inside but when you staple it to the inside it becomes a air gap and promotes mold growth and damage later on so to anyone who cares about the people theyre installing for staple it to the outside along the stud
I’m pretty sure I’d like to have my barrier in place and cause some issues to drywallers. Having dry construction is more important and we’re talking about few staples.
I'm 5'2...and a half ;) lol I won't be opening my bags quite as gracefully lol i just need to replace a few pieces in a new construction (after housefire)...stuff some places, tape and staple and make it look pretty. Thanks for the info...I'm sick of waiting for a guy to do it! I want my walls up, and no one treats your house with the care you give your own house. I had to learn that lesson the hard way!
Your height won't effect how gracefully you open the bags. I learned the trick from my Mexican friend when I worked out west and he was only about that height. Just kick the bottom out and lean it toward you and let me spread out on the floor. Hope the project goes easy and sorry to hear about the housefire! Take care!
@@HermanWoodworks lol I'm also 105-110lb depending on the day haha and a super duper weakling! But yes, I learned about the foam around windows after some of my windows wont open ....contractor screwed me did so much wrong...I just want back in. Been displaced for few years, but this is my year! Tysm 4 your help💜
I love all these comments about the side tabs or whatever you call them. He specifically said exactly why he’s stapling them where he is. And plus it’s his shop he can do it however he wants.
Thanks! I don't have one on just vapor barriers. Technically if I would have overlapped the kraft tabs and then stapled them on the face of the stud it would be a vapor barrier. Some places don't allow for stapling, it technically allows air penetration, very minimal... even the way I have it is still a semi vapor barrier. The workshop is a thermos the way I have it, really holds a good temperature year round with minimal heating or cooling.
If you overlap the vapor barrier on top of studs, you can't liquid nail the drywall. The strength of my walls is way more important than the slight loss of barrier.
Fantastic video. Thanks! A question: I'm having a new home built in Frisco, TX. The builder will not be insulating the garage (not required). In a situation where insulation is not required, can the act of insulating the garage trigger the need for inspection and the possibility of not passing code? In other words, if it's not required, even if I do something wrong that doesn't meet code, will I risk failing inspection? Or will the inspector not even care because it's not required? Like Herman Woodworks, I'm doing it out of choice. I'll be installing a mini-split and want to make the space more efficient. Thanks again!
Hello David! Thanks for the compliment! Having visited Texas multiple times, I totally understand the desire to insulate the garage to maximize the benefit from the mini split. Everywhere can be so different about building codes but maybe speak with the building inspector to verify what you want to do and what they would expect from their end. It definitely seems like you would really want to insulate given the temperatures that can be achieved in that area.
Are you using the foam board against the outside wall? Depending on the thickness of the foam board , that will be all the vapor barrier you need. No need for a double vapor barrier. Be sure to leave adequate air spacing between outside wall and the different layers of insulation. Hope that helps!
With hybrid insulation you have to worry about the dew point, as if you have a vapor barrier too close to the outside wall and then a majority of the insulation on the inside wall, it could actually cause a temperature differential on the foam board which can cause condensation. Code usually requires the out-most insulation r value to be 2/3rd of the total R-Value, then up to 1/3 of remaining insulation can be on the inside.
when you made the lengthwise cut for the narrow bay, how did you staple the right side since there was no kraft paper left behind to staple? my guess is you only stapled the left side.
In lumber country in WA and it is now $81 for Home Depot Common: 19/32 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft., Actual: 0.578 in. x 47.75 in. x 95.75 in. Oriented Strand Board ($71 for bulk). Uff da. We are doing a 1980s mobile home remodel. Luckily all the floors are in great shape!
Hey sorry for not responding sooner! If the joists are spaced properly the compression should hold them up for the time until you staple. If the batts are flimsy give them some time to expand when they are fresh out of the bag. They also sell metal wire precut rods that will spike into the wood from one side to the other. If all else fails ive seen people string twine from one side to the other.
I've heard some people feel the need to but they design the kraft paper to be a vapor barrier so doubling it over is just overkill. I can honestly tell you this garage was a thermos by the time I hung drywall.
I got a shed someone built before I bought this house. They insulated and put up plastic barrier. I think the part that made it all moldy was there's this gap in the very top of the roof on one side, about an inch, across the whole top side. Yeah....there was black mold on all sides and ceiling of the shed, under the plastic and in various patches of the insulation.
Do you have a particular place/store that you prefer to buy your insulation from? Like do you have a miracle recipe for getting it cheaper than Lowe's?
If your military, I believe both Lowes and Home Depot offer a discount. My local grocery store gives money towards gas if you buy gift cards. Mostly importantly watch the bulk prices at Home Depot. I needed like 9 bags of R30 to do the ceiling in the workshop which is another video I did. By buying 14 or more it cut the cost significantly....I ended up adding extra for my whole house and it only cost me like 100 extra....so check the bulk price!
If drywallers get upset with face staples for insulation, what's the difference with the face staples for the plastic vapor barrier? Either way a staple is gonna be facing the drywall.
I should probably say they get mad at the stapler not the staples...unless your being diligent and making sure every staple is flush. They just hate any staples left up a little that interferes with their drywall sheet laying flat against the board. When I was insulating, alot of the guys I worked with were using slap or stick staplers and were cruising along and didn't care if staples were sticking a little high... so kraft paper or plastic, as long as you get them all flush and the paper or plastic flat.
@@Lolatyou332 the staples help guarantee the drywall doesn't shift material around while its being installed. To guarantee compression fit you would have to pop all your bags and let them decompress for a day or so.
Depending on what your buying, I think my batts were meant for 8 foot walls....if you have taller, I start at the top and leave all my cut in pieces for the bottom.
A nice cheat if you have alot of same length cuts...measure it and make some tape marks on the floor, then use a scrap of plywood or something and make all your cuts ahead of time. Stretch the material out so you don't get variations.
@@HermanWoodworks thank you tons. I thought I seen some where they hang it. And when they get to bottom they cut it. Must be a odd practice as I don't see much info
This is for the mask through Amazon but I believe I bought mine at Lowes a couple of years ago. Hope that helps! They usually carried alot of different color masks i believe.
I put R30 insulation in the ceiling. The heat will rise, so if you don't insulate that you will lose whatever heat you are getting rapidly. Also in the summer you will get alot of heat from the roof heating up. Any insulation you get up there will help. I may have did a separate video for the ceiling....not sure. Hope that helps!
Literally comes down to your local code. Some people don't want a staple hole in it. I've had some people say they want the seams spray glued. It doesn't hurt to ask your local inspector.
@@HermanWoodworks your video was really helpful. I'm about to start remodeling a small lake house in north central Arkansas that's been in my family for 5 generations, doing as much research as I can, so I can save as much money as I can. Thanks
@@captainkhakis9826 that sounds awesome! Let me know if you think of any other questions! That sounds so cool to be able to restore a family piece like that!
Why would you staple the vapor barrier to the side of the board? That paper is suppose to be the vapor barrier which prevents humidity from going through your wall from both the inside and outside... During the insulation installations I don't think you should even worry about the drywall installation. The only reason you would worry about the drywall insulation is if there aren't studs to screw into or if you are worried the installers might mess up your insulation or vapor barrier.
To get a true vapor barrier you are suppose to overlap the tabs and then staple the tabs down together. Drywallers hate this because most people down take the time to flush set every staple which could lead to wavy drywall....
@@HermanWoodworks Then it sounds like people should use face-less insulation and then install their own continuous vapor barrier, using non-silicone caulking instead of staples. I just don't like how you tell people to do this with their insulation as you effectively don't really have a vapor barrier at all because of improper insulation installation.
@@Lolatyou332 Owens corning has fast batts that don't need stapled, but as per their other kraft faced insulation that tab is for stapling to make sure it doesn't slide in your wall overtime. I have also done installs with unfaced and covered it 4 mil or so plastic, which still requires stapled to hold true. If your looking for that tight of a vapor seal, closed cell spray in for the vapor barrier finished with open cell would be best. I have installed that also.
@@HermanWoodworks Vapor barriers are supposed to be, based on code, 6 mill minimum for walls, and higher for areas like crawl spaces. You just use poly-safe (not silicone) caulking on the studs and that holds the vapor barrier in place AND prevents airflow between the studs, so if you do have air leakage it would be limited to a smaller area, ideally you caulk every other stud and that isolates issues to just those studs.
I may have not shown it in the video, but I usually slice the insulation slightly above and below the horizontal 2x4s. You are correct. Thanks for watching!
If you were to opt away from hanging drywall, 1st i would check with your building inspector or check the code for that area. 2nd, if you were to remove the kraft paper, install some level of vapor barrier, like a 4 mil or so plastic to keep that fiberglass from being disturbed and going airborne.
When I sheeted the outside of the building it was 7.60 a sheet bulk price....it went all the way up to 50 here is ohio...it has since came back down to 29.50....silly.
Personal preference....I use to install rock wool between units in multi unit condos. It performs great for sound purposes. For my application, price is a factor and fiberglass is definitely cheaper.
Yeah I don't understand why anyone would use fiberglass, considering the majority of the cost for insulation installation is labor / time. Also if fiberglass gets wet you have to basically tear down the wall and re-install it. Mineral Wool is just better.
@@HermanWoodworks Just because there are more problems doesn't mean that the problem is not effectively multiplied because of the insulation getting wet and becoming useless. There could be a simple leak around a rain gutter that can be easily repaired, but because fiberglass insulation was chosen, now a section of a walls insulation has become useless and needs to be replaced. Mineral wool insulation would just allow you to allow the water to diffuse out through an external moisture barrier without any real long-term issues, as long as the leak was addressed in an appropriate amount of time.
wow i can see why you only insulated for 3 yrs..you wouldnthave made it 3 weeks with us.. R 19 turns into R 21 how??? haha! you compressed it LOSING R VALUE ...u have fg going OVER the horizontal studs ..AND you did NOTHING about filling the gaps behind the studs! the air movement alone will REDUCE the r value to about 14 at best. wow.. so sad.
All the annoying droning on isn't helpful, too much empty talk. He says he did insulation for three years, "But I'm not an expert..." OK, I'll find a video from an expert. Thanks.
