You rock! Thanks to your step by step video I've decided to tackle this project myself. I figured it will save me about $500 in labor cost. It's a bit above my skill set, but we get better by doing.
Thank you so much, man. I'm no mechanic by any means but I can turn a wrench pretty good, and this video allowed me to save like a thousand dollars by changing manifold myself. Truck sounds like it's brand new, never heard it run so good! Thank you so much!!!
Thanks for sharing. The intake manifold is being replaced on my truck this week and I wanted to see what the mechanic is going to have to do. Very interesting and a lot to keep track of.
Thanks for the video, second time to replace mine, luckily the first was under the extended warranty. Seems they Crack rather regularly. Appreciate the great comprehensive video without having to skip through the actual unbolting parts of a super long vid
Outstanding job! Not a easy task. I had mine done with new plugs a few years ago. Had to check out your video to see why one plug was miss firing. Put a few bottles of techron through it to fix the problem.
Ugh! I also have a known coolant leak at the head gasket but other than that a bigger leak has now occurred. It looks like that tube that runs on top of the engine block, BELOW the air intake manifold. Ford has absolutely no air intake manifolds in the country and they are back ordered. I unfortunately can't wait. UGH, gonna swallow this and install a........Dorman:(( My truck is a 2002 Ford F-250 5.4L 2V CCLB 4WD. I also have to fix plug #7 on the driver side with the Cal-Van insert kit. Great Video though!!!
Loved how you went step by step with it. I only came to see where two vacuum hoses went but I definitely should've came here first to see where everything was at first to save a bit of time. I also installed the Dorman intake manifold but I took out the old gaskets because I saw the new part had gaskets already installed. I just wanted to make sure you did the same or if I need to go back to install the old ones
But even though it has 240,000 miles still drives great but not this leak why the hell did they make it plastic and easy to Crack at the coolant crossover
You are doing a great job & everything, but I don't use plastic intake manifolds. My 1999 F150 4.6 had 214,000 on it when it had the intake manifold done. I have seen to many with plastic fail. The heat kills them.
Doing mine well trying to the second 5o last bolt on the drivers side was stripped so gotta go to Lowes to get a removal tool for that but my f150 5.4 triton is a pain in my ass shit my entire truck is a pain already put more then 5,500 in it for other repairs not including a set and a half for tires
The Dorman instruction sheet with the one for my 2007 5.4L 2V said to torque 18 lb inches initially, then 18 lb feet, which concurs with the Ford factory service manual.
I’ve seen two mechanics over Torque these manifolds and crack them. This is why I emphasize reading the directions on torquing them to the specification listed.
@@robfaith9999 that's why I was surprised your instructions said to bring it up to 25 lb ft. I felt like I was already pushing the envelope at 18 lb feet. The bushing should prevent any stress being imparted to the plastic housing. But the 18 pound feet seem to be about all the aluminum threads we're going to be able to withstand.
Thanks for taking the time to post this. I am waiting on a replacement manifold (NOT Dorman per bad reviews) and a new water pump, both original with 200K this month to attempt this job. I noticed you mentioned possibly replacing hoses as needed, do you recommend replacing any of the hoses or sensors that are only fully accessible once the old manifold is removed? I am also thinking of replacing spark plugs and at least the #4 and #8 coil packs as they are horrible to get access to normally, ideally all eight but budget tight. Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
Do you have experience with the 4.6 2 valve V8 in the 2008 Ford Econoline E250? It seems to only have a cylinder temperature head sensor and not a coolant temperature sensor on that header pipe like yours. My temperature guage is not working so I am wondering if that is why. I was given conflicting responses, some say there should not be a coolant temperature sensor and others say there should. Please help. Thank you.
Yes. These engines are notorious for liquid getting in the holes and causing misfires. After it rains here I get Atleast a couple misfiring and cleaning the holes out usually gets rid of the misfires.
Will a leaking intake manifold cause a misfire ? I have a 2003 ford f150 5.4 2v and I have coolant missing and recent bought a block test kit and preform the test and is come out positive therefore combustion gases are present in the coolant system but I can’t determine if it’s a head gasket or a leaking intake manifold? I’m imagining it’s a HG though because when I was preforming the test I took the coolant reservoir cap off and the coolant level went up immediately and started overflowing out of the tank. And BTW I have a P0304 code for misfire on cylinder 4. I have replaced the spark plug and coil over and still have the misfire. Any suggestions or help?
It is possible coolant can get into the intake from a leak but not very common but combustion leak testing positive is definitely a head gasket. The intake leaking coolant into the cylinders is more likely a vacuum not pressure. You most likely have a blown head gasket.
@@robfaith9999 Do you think the miss fire is from the coolant getting in the cylinder and wetting the spark plug? If I remove the spark plug after the truck setting for a couple hours and I see coolant inside its a 100% blown head gasket?
@@robfaith9999 okay I think I’m starting to understand the problem more. So my trucks symptoms are 1) Misfire Cylinder #4 P0304 2) Coolant level going down slowly 3) Rough idle(motor shaking) after start up for about 3-5mins Once the truck warms up it runs smooth no motor shake. The reason I’m having these symptoms is a possible small leak on the head gasket. To be specific between the coolant jacket and the cylinder. When the truck sits the coolant leaks into the cylinder thru the head gasket. When I start the truck I get a rough idle because the coolant interferes with spark plug which causes the misfire. When the piston is on the up stroke it’s pushes exhaust gases into the coolant system and when the piston is on its down stroke it pulls in coolant because the piston creates a vacuum. The reason the truck runs smooth after it warms up its simply the metals expanding which basically seals the leak and when the truck cools down the leak continues. Thanks for the help!
Buenas noches por favor tengo una lobo año 2007 y tiene mucha succión hacia los tapa válvulas me dicen que puede estar perforado ? Me podrías ayudar gracias
Video doesn't show the actual removal & replacement of intake manifold...but shows everything else apparently. One frame show old intake in place...next frame shows new one in place. My 2003 E-250 is in the shop for this. Too complicated for me although last week I cleaned throttle body & idle air control valve. But that wasn't the real issue.
At 21:15 the manifold is removed, physically shown pulling the manifold from the engine. All steps are included. You obviously did not watch the video all the way through.
How is the manifold holding up? Heard the Dorman brand is bad and the other ebay versions are just the same. So this is a yearly or once every two years job to do since it will always crack at that weak point. Currently looking at modifying a 4.6 Elderbrock (Cast Aluminum) manifold to fit the 5.4. There's a video here on RU-vid on how to do it. My only concern is the throttle body flange will need a custom adapter made. No more PI or Non PI searching in Junkyards too....God help me.
Another quick question why didn’t you do compression test on each cylinder to confirm that was only place it was leaking? Seriously I need advice lol I’ve got new metal intake on it’s way because it was leaking in same place as yours.
I have a question..I bought the same manifold. It came with the gaskets built into it and unlike the one I pulled out of the truck wich had a seperat carrier gasket between the head and manifold.. did you use a carrier gasket or just stick with the ones on the manifold?
Those gaskets are made for that specific manifold design. I would use what came with the kit you bought, the manifold design is different from the factory one which means the factory gaskets won’t work. There should have been a plastic bag with a paper that had install torque and directions because the factory torque is also different from that.
The port design is different and therefore Dorman uses their own gasket. Instead of the hard plastic gasket with silicone rubber seal built in, Dormans design uses silicone rubber prong type seals that pop into the bottom of the manifold. The crossover mounts the same way.
Did you not put the insulating panels back in under the intake openings? Are they really necessary? What is there claimed purpose? I'm in a 04 F150 Lariat now 4 x 4 5.4. Thanks
Pretty sure they are to insulate from heat and noise. They were completely destroyed so I didn’t put them back in. It’s been fine so it was ok without it.
@@robfaith9999 yea. These are destroyed to. Brittle as dry bread. Lol. I had just decided to cut the remnants left off. I broke the new cylinder temp sensor off in the head. Gotta it out though in 10 minutes . To much I think. Broke off at the threads. Drove a flathead in it and turned it out. Whew. Thank ya Lord Had to order another one be in tomorrow. Thanks man I got some stove insulation I might cut off a couple sections and slide them in there.
There is a heater hose on that side that has a T to supply a rear heater core. Some models don’t have that. There is also a PCV heater that is on the passenger side also. Connected at the base of the throttle body intake adapter. Hope that helps.
Just curious why did you spend a few hundred dollars on a whole new intake manifold if it was just bad gaskets? Serious question because I’m about to replace my gaskets but I’ll do manifold if I have to
Does anyone know what was bolted into the top of the block? there was a wire that lead to a harness to the back left. My wire is broken but I have not Idea what it's for so I cant look up the part.
The intake has a sound pad that covers the galley area in the center lower part of the intake. That helps quiet sound. Ford had that on there and I just swapped it over to the new manifold.