A big thank you to James, who's videos and follow up emails got me sorted identifing cartridge full of petrol , as I do top up the fuel tank. In the interim i have disconnected the " tank" hose to the cartridge to stop issues. Will proceed with upgrade delete kit as recommended by James. Many thanks from Australia
I'm gonna relocate my battery to that location. I can imagine a different ride with the battery located lower on the frame. Thanks for the motivation!!!
@internetpolification yeah I already did that, and I made a remote positive terminal so I can charge or jump start the bike without having to remove the side panels. With my lighter (and smaller) battery the net result would certainly be less than my stock battery. I'll let you kno how it goes. You rock sir!!
Excellent. I wish I’d thought of this solution before paying out £30 for the ‘delete kit’……which was two silicone caps and a plug in resistor! Learning curve….
You’re eliminating future problems by ditching the Evap. After I bought it, my bike was such a bad starter and cold runner, plus equally difficult hot starting that I seriously considered getting g rid of the bike. Then I removed the Evap and it transformed the bike into a first-time, reliable starter, no cold running issues…in fact all the problems disappeared immediately
I just did what I think is the simplest way of deleting your evap system. Remove the canister and dispose of it and the line thay goes from it to atmosphere. Use M8 screws to block the line that came from the tank and the line that went to the purge valve. Done. Sure you still have the valve and the lines from it connected to the throttle bodies, but they're not doing anything. My evap canister also had liquid fuel leak out of it.
I think it might possibly be better to block the two inlet stubs with silicone caps…….. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184798332189?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=AsoYNW6VSYu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=aoSTS-GYQ3W&var=692550696031&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@internetpolification Yeah I do have a couple of silicon caps laying around I could use. But leaving the existing hoses on is effectively the same thing isn't it? Like, they just run to the purge valve, which then runs to a blocked line that used to go to the canister? There are kinda two reasons I did it this way. I didn't want to leave an open line to the purge valve (just to stop dirt/moisture etc getting in there and stuffing it up, unlikely) and secondly because if the bike ever gets a backfire that pressurises the throttle bodies I don't want those caps flying off and getting lost, whereas the existing tubes would be easy just to reattach. Again, probably unlikely. I agree it looks nicer and declutters to remove all the tubing and valve, but I think my reuse of the blocked tubing should be ok? FYI, the first time post removal it started fine. Second time if actually took a fair bit longer of cranking, but I'll need to try it out more. Currently got the tank off fitting heated grips so can't try it.
Thanks for the update. Wanted to suggest a couple things, despite this being a hobby channel: Add a link to the previous video in question (or use playlists for longer series like the rectifier move) Maybe try the top down video camera format a la Atomic Shrimp to be able to show the part you're highlighting. It'd be easier to follow than still images that suffer from blurriness or detailed backgrounds.
Like you say…it’s just a hobby channel that does the job for most fellow enthusiasts. I might start changing things once I hit say 5,000 subscribers (unlikely) but until then, it’s just the nature of the beast, I’m afraid. I don’t even ‘monetise’ my efforts (although it’s been offered and suggested by RU-vid ) because I don’t want adverts…. If people don’t like my efforts, then there are other more glitzy ones out there for them, I’m sure 😀
Again, surprising. Famously the Interceptor spent a long time in the development stage. Surprising this is a problem. EVAP is old, simple tech. Fitted to every car for at least 30 years and seldom gives a problem. I bet if you only ever filled the tank up 2.3 of the way, it'd work OK. LOL It's supposed to have a check valve to keep liquid from getting into it, but.
Despite the length of the development phase, this bike has several well-know faults which can be addressed. Position of the RR unit is the worst place it could possibly be, leading to many failures and multiple failures on bikes. The relays are poor quality. The front brake caliper had a product recall. The evap is low-tech and if, as you mention, it requires the tank to be only 2/3rds full, it’s a poor design. The engine is severely restricted by the exhaust system etc etc. Once these issues are addressed, it’s a great bike!
@@internetpolification I should probably be more critical of a modern bike like this. However, bikes in the 1970s and earlier usually needed a lot of details to be buttoned down by the owner . I've owned some of those bikes. So I guess in my mind if the engine and transmission is good, I tolerate dealing with some other issues. It bothers me, but not so much that I'd proclaim it a "bad" bike or "never buy again" bike because of this bit or that odd. It seems the engines and frames and transmissions are good on Interceptors. But Enfield can't expect most modern riders to have such a forgiving attitude as I do about stuff like EVAP not working
@@skymningforelsket1302 I know exactly what you mean. The thing is, not every owner will have the knowledge or confidence to redress the numerous ‘issues’ with the bike. My own history with original British bikes has prepared me for working on the Interceptor but not everyone is in that position. I know someone who has to take their Triumph to the garage for the most minor of things. The Interceptor has a lot going for it….nice engine and gearbox, fuel injection, abs, slipper clutch, 6 speed gearbox, braided brake hoses, nice spoked wheels with stainless spokes and alloy rims. It’s an excellent basis for ‘tweaking’ and a lovely ride. And inexpensive! I’ve enjoyed working on mine and I suspect that others enjoy working on theirs and improving things, none of the mods cost huge amounts (unless one decides to change the exhaust system!) and things like the Evap and air-injection can be eliminated at no cost. Even my re-location cables for the infamous rectifier/regulator aren’t expensive. So…all in all…I still love the bike! Call it “bonding”! And as for appearance…it’s very customisable……
@@internetpolification Yes, your mods are some of the most tasteful I've yet seen. Yes, it takes time and money to fix things that a lot of people don't have. I see the 650 is very popular in the UK. Perhaps unexpectedly, I don't think the Interceptor is very popular in the USA. Upon what do I base this appraisal? Well, a dealer around here just a couple months ago had about 15 or 20 of the 2023 models in stock and was blowing them out at $5,000 each, ie 4,000 pounds. Another dealer around here still has 2 of the 2022 models in stock, so they've been sitting on the showroom floor for 2 years. I'm not sure what to attribute this to, however in my own personal case, I didn't buy an Enfield new because used air cooled T100s around here are dirt cheap so I went with that. Which is even more analog -- the only computer on it controls the spark, it's got carbs. By dirt cheap, I mean it had 1,610 miles on it and I paid $4,000 , 3,200 pounds and it came with extras like bags, fairing, center stand, and a pair of new tires on it. Americans have some, BUT NOT AS MUCH, culture and heritage with parallel twins done in the classic style as Britons do, so I think it keeps prices and demand pretty muted for both Bonnevilles and Interceptors around here. Which is good for me, though😄
@@internetpolification Yes, you could spend those money after saving money on other stuff! And sometimes buying cheap is more expensive in he long run. Take me, buying an IXrace endcan saving some money, not buying the Arrow I really wanted...but was somewhat expensive...ending up buying the Arrow anyway a few months later. In need of a cheap IXrace endcan? Ha ha!
Picked up my 650 today fuel light came on. Filled it ⬆️up🎉 Apparently to much ? Drive home very bad running engine! Then No start. Taken it all apart hope it starts tomorrow 😊
When having the regulator/rectifier replaced on my Interceptor the garage "forgot" to replace the evap cartridge. It was some time before I noticed it was missing, several months. The connecting tubes were just left hanging, I didn't notice any difference to to the engine performance and no error with the engine management system. The garage replaced it as soon as I complained but I've never had any of the problems with cold starts etc.
Yet…… you will do if it ever gets saturated with petrol. Guaranteed. And the saturation of the charcoal cartridge occurs if the fuel tank is ‘overfilled’ but RE can’t define exactly what that is…….
Ps. The RR unit failure is also a very, very common problem on these bikes due to the daft OEM position of it. Presumably that’s why you needed to get yours replaced? Hence my making the extension kits to re-locate it to a far more sensible place
Pps. You wouldn’t get an error code if the purge valve had been left electrically connected…….the ECU would recognise that the purge valve was connected
@@doughoffman9463 yes. Still a bit hit and miss though as using the side stand can cause the fuel to contaminate the evaporator cartridge, I understand…..
Not yet…….but you 100% will have to if you ‘overfill’ the fuel tank with petrol. If the Evap cartridge charcoal gets soaked in petrol, then you will have the choice to either replace it by buying a new one, or ditch the entire Evap system. As to “pollution”….it’s merely vapour from the fuel tank breather….negligible and certainly less than that emitted by a soaked Evap cartridge. I would say that the Evap system is a box-ticking, compliance exercise in order to meet requirements in certain countries. Having spent a long time in India, I can say with some authority that minuscule amounts petrol vapour from the tank breather (I keep my bike inside a garage and have never once smelled petrol….) are nothing compared to the many other forms of pollution, especially in cities such as Delhi
I was wondering about this when I removed the cartridge to get to the RR. What would happen if I just didn’t put it back on? Basically , if I put. Caps on the inlet stubs, then just remove the breathers, job done? I didn’t fancy prattling around trying to get to the purge valve.😱
I blanked off the 3 tubes going to the Evap using 2 x M6 and 1 x M8 short bolts and cable tied in place. I think I should have left the larger diameter tube unblocked because it seems there's a partial vacuum when I open the fuel cap. I just haven't got a round tuit.
I was wondering why not just disconnect fuel tank pipe at the cartridge and leave all as is. The purge valve will on suck on the dry cartridge as no fuel vapours or fuel going into the cartridge ??
@@xtc2v correct. By filling the tank to the brim, in order to maximise range, it is 100% guaranteed that the evaporation cartridge will fill with petrol and thereafter cause problems. That’s how the evaporation gets contaminated. Once filled with petrol, there will be difficult starting, stalling, rough running. That’s why people get rid of the whole thing