"Ensign Authorization code: nine-five-wictor-wictor-two!" Exciting to see how this in all directions flexing hull is taking shape. Can't wait to see the next step.
I raced go karts as a kid. I was on my dad about getting lighter fairings for the cart to save weight. Since he was the financer of the operation, he suggested less hotdogs on race day. Lol.
Interesting terminological thing with your use of "kerfing". In furniture making and architectural joinery in the UK, kerfing means a series of partial-depth cross-grain cuts, and that really would have been crude in your sheer clamp. Your long-grain cuts are so much neater, and are clearly going to work really nicely. I'm still really enjoying this, Mark. I hope you are too.
I build large rc gliders and models and love working out the errors , warps and twists that happen. Its the work that makes you appreciate the end result.
Tools are tools, the bench is a tool, the shop is a tool... Had to chuckle seeing the big drawer of spring-clamps at BOTH ends of the shop! Nice trick getting the bend at the stern..
Exceptional editing. Love your walk-thru videos that touch on the process, step by step, and your thought processes as you work through problems. Thanks.
@@Nomadboatbuilding - Thank you. Hugely emjoying the build but it is still a stark contrast with my beloved Victory Class boats, 20'8" and 1.75 tonnes. The Edwardian practicality of a clinker hull, offset against your beautiful cold moulding.
I would cut some thin strips of wood to glue into your curfs, so when clamped ,you don't lose thickness of the sheer clamp. Cut some small plywood blocks, and cut a notch in them so that it's straddles all of the strips of your sheer clamp, thus capturing them.that way you don't have to fight to keep them in alignment and it also gives you a place to place your clamp as you pull the sheer clamp into the Hull .use a piece of wax paper so they don't stick. This is where a picture would be worth a thousand words
It's great to see someone with years of actual experience informing their knowledge and practice of the "art of boatbuilding" who isn't simply parroting last summer's two-week boatbuilding course in Maine!
Well my memory for parroting sucks so my only option it to experience something firsthand and tell you about quickly it before I forget the what and why of it.
I agree that other guy is selling his first year experience like it's gospel. I mean he knows his crafting and his wood but he is building his second boat ever so a healthy dose of humility would suit him. I don't have as many "wth is he doing now" moments any more in recent video's but they're still there sometimes. In contrast, this channel shows stuff that's really really hard to do, and he's not afraid to let us know how hard it is. With experience you can learn what's important at what stage to reach the goal. The little things have all been worked out so things can be done with minimal wasted effort. I mean watching both experiences is fun and useful but telling people you have everything figured out on your second boat just seems a bit off.
@@ThaJay I didn’t realize you were referring to the Art of Boatbuilding. I haven’t had any contact with him but in his defence he is an accomplished sculptor and I can understand his position. He has discovered something new and is excited and going all in. I was there at one point and probably way cockier. Every boat I build now just reaffirms how much I don’t know. I try to share my approach and explain common practices where possible but I don’t claim to be the authority on anything.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Thank you for your thoughtful reply. I'm sorry if I came across as too abrasive. He does do as much research as he can and I do learn a lot of new stuff through both his perspective and yours. I also noticed he really pays attention to comments and doubts and if he is unsure how to respond to them, he will go back to the experts to fill him in. I really do like both channels but it just felt good to see I'm not the only one who noticed it and would like him to be a little bit less instructional and a bit more follow along. Anyway it's just a minor gripe that probably has more to do with how personality styles match up and come across on video and less with the quality of the videos and boats. All shipwrights must learn from every new build. You both seem really eager to learn as much as possible and you both are really good at shaping wood.
I do actually expect his third or fourth boat to be an absolute masterwork. He will have most of the boat specific little tricks in his book by then and the tools he makes are absolutely gorgeous. Good luck on the rest of your 2.4m build and I'm already looking forward to your next video.
It is really coming together, I might spend to much time admiring the bare hull. Do you check for symmetry or it is that only something mortals need do. 😊
When you add those horizontal braces to ensure that the station width is correct, does it auto pull the sides in the same distance on either side? For instance, if you had a centerline mark on that brace, would it lay plumb with the centerline of the boat or doesn't it matter? Alan
That is actually an excellent question but also a loaded one. It depends on how the hull sprung and if one is trying to correct a lack of symmetry. I didn't in fact check on that because for this hull there aren't really any corrective measures I could take. Not without a lot of fuss. I went with the assumption that it sprung evenly and the cross spalls will bring it back to a reasonably symmetrical shape. For the amount of shape in this boat, I don't think it really matters if it isn't absolutely 100% symmetrical anyway. It isn't like a rowing shell that is trying to track straight on an even keel. Sailboats are always heeled over to some degree presenting an asymmetrical shape to the water at all times except at the dock. If I were building an open boat with a transom or a double ender, I could tweak the shape of the sheer, with reference to the centreline, and try to lock it in when fitting breast hooks and quarter knees. When I build skin n frame kayaks I do check for symmetry relative to the centreline and correct for that because there is an opportunity inherent in the building process that allows you to make such a correction easily.
Indeed. It took me many years before I acquired one. Now I kick myself every time I forget to bring it to just about any job. The problem is they always use the sanding attachment as the marketing hook. That is just about the least useful thing it can do. I’ve had mine about 18 years now and still haven’t made it through the starter pack of sanding pads.
46 lbs is a very good weight ~1/3 for the canoe body with plenty left for structure. Is that in-line with your calculations? Was it worthwhile measuring everything you put on and took off?
To be honest, it was more of an exercise to see where we were at any given moment. The rules just stipulate a minimum hull and deck weight but it doesn’t factor in the underlying structure. Tracking the weight was something I thought would come in handy if we ever wanted to audit the results.
Given that the hull has sprung a little does that have a negative effect on the fairness of the shear line? Or did you make the cross ties before you cut the shear?
It affects it slightly but not to any great degree. We aren't trying to correct sheer shape on the sprung hull. The guide marks were made on the hull before it sprung, and the line was faired to those marks. Once the cross spall are on we are back to the original shape. We'll tweak the sheer to make it sweet to the eye after some more structure is in so that it holds its shape.
I have not. They are spread too far and wide. Even if I tried, I would keep finding more every couple of days. Spring clamps are slippery buggers like that.
