INTRO: full video here davemosstuning.com/2-clicks-o... The main difference between the standard Hypermotard 950 and the SP version is, of course, the Öhlins suspension. And yes, it should be adjusted just because it's adjustable.
When adjusting the chain there is a measurement tool that should come with the bike. It’s a small piece of metal that fits into a notch to determine the right chain tightness. You can see where to use the measurement tool in front just in front of the label. If you pause the video at 6:49 you can see is sticking down from the swing arm. You adjust the chain and then use that tool to measure. Just FYI 👍🏼
shouldn't the lever adjusting be done with the gloves on? I can evel feel a difference between my light summer gloves and my medium thick cold weather gloves. Just saying :)
I just got a HM 1100 EVO and the first thing I tried to do was adjusting the rotation of the front break lever on the handlebar. However the whole lever assembly seems to be held in position by a notch that slides onto a pin on the handlebar, thus fixating it in one unique position. Is this normal? or how to I get to adjust the angle. Thanks so much.
That is normal, so you have two options. 1. Remove the pin. 2. Where the pin fit into the brake assembly, machine the whole larger for greater movement forward.
One setting cannot work for everyone on the planet based on weight alone so they have to set it somewhere to start. Then you see how it rides, and refine the settings to what you the owner need. This is true of every suspension on every motorcycle. So would you rather adapt or find the right settings. Most prefer to adapt.
@@catalystreactionsbw You are absolutely right. But I was after the "care" of ducati&ohlins corporation for this bike. Sometimes bikes come with completely wrong even dangerous suspension setups from the factory. In this channel and real life I saw it before. I wondered if this is the same even in the SP model.
Thanks Dave. To be honest, I’ve never understood to entire motard thing. If I want to go on a racetrack then I use a bike designed for that. I know you can race anything with an engine and two wheels. I’m not sure if you have the same class or have heard of it as in Australia we do have “bucket” racing, where if you win a race you can basically swap yours with anyone else’s bikes as your not allowed to spend more than $500 on them. A different story, however basically a dirt bike with road/track wheels and tyres? Not for me. A completely different riding style. Don’t get me wrong as like all the top (and also the humans like myself), in Australia all started out on dirt bikes and some still ride them today. I know one ex 500 cc top Suzuki factory Aussie racer who lived in the shadow of Doohan spends most his time on dirt and enduro bikes these days, and commentating on racers.
You sir, seem to have never ridden a motard! Go get on one, I promise you won't regret passing ALL the sport bike riders on the curves. Unless you can ride at the top level, most sportbikes are actually slower than their naked counterparts for a reason.
Many share the same POV as you and that isn't a bad thing as you see bikes for specific categories re use. Dual sports can be ridden both dirt style and road racing style so you can use any style to ride it. They are for sure a universal tool for every type of riding you want to do and if you see them as such, they work very well comparedd to a purpose built machine like a sports bike.
@@catalystreactionsbw Maybe just call it a purist point of view. I’ve never actually ridden one so I’m not coming from a position of “authority” for want of a better word.
@@ThisGuyRates You are correct on one point. I have never ridden one. However, I’m not a pretend sports bike rider either. As an ex Australian Superbike racer I have raced against many who have become world champions. Troy Bayliss, for one, who I raced against (from behind) when we were both on 250 cc V-twin 2 strokes.
Dave, I cannot believe the lack of knowledge on the very basics. Adjusting brake/clutch lever and gear lever angles is at the very least they should be doing themselves. They're usually the same lot that fiddle about with suspension settings then making a bike totally unrideable on track.
Unfortunately ergonomics gets very little attention across all categories. Helping riders understand they can be more comfortable and more importantly should be more comfortable is very eye opening. That creates the spark to look deeper, ask more questions, make some changes.
@@catalystreactionsbw I don't like the stock Hyper's upright handle bar, thinking to bring it down a bit / rotate towards the rider slightly. Any thoughts on that? (adjusting controls as neccessary) . Either that or getting shoter handle bar holders (the poles that hold it , sorry don't know the word)
Odd. Bars are rotated too far back, at least to this old dirt biker, who has a Hypermotard. Puts the levers and guards in the right spot too. Two bolts. I suppose you get in a bit of a habit if you deal with a lot of clip-ons.
If you had loosened the handlebar clap bolts & tilled the bars a few mm forward would have solved the lever reach problem. You also did not check the chain tension with the suspension loaded ie rider sitting on the bike. Two more reasons of many proving Dave Moss is not a skilled bike mechanic.
When you are setting your own chain tension on your bike, do you have a mate do it for you while you sit on the bike and twiddle your thumbs? get real. Chain slack accounts for compression with a rider already, on top of the extra compression due to bumps and corners.
@@Kevster270 Kevin- adjust your chain however you like, but try the proper method before passing judgement. Also, a partly worn chain will not hold the same tension throughout its length ie some links may be slightly more stretched than others. That must be accounted for too. Check chain tension then spin the rear wheel quarter turn. Chances are you will have a different degree of slack.
@@Kevster270 What is wrong with that technique - if your assistant is qualified, then set up for solo and two up riding is far more accurate with riders on the bike due to massive variations in weight.
