Saving motorcycle riders lives daily via life skills and knowledge on various aspects of motorcycle riding, chassis and suspension set up, tyres, ergonomics and general maintenance. Educational videos with answers to subscriber questions on track product testing, bike reviews and specific tasks. Helping each rider create a perfectly handling motorcycle that meets their needs during any ride but most importantly - in a crisis moment, exceeds expectations to minimize collisions or crashes.
Thank you Dave, I wish they touched upon these things in beginner riding courses. No wonder I had trouble with shifting with the riding school bike, not knowing any better I thought it was only due to inexperience.
Go read the rest of the comments to see how many made the changes and had a much safer and better handling bike. Do your research before you make comments like this.
hi Dave sorry to bother you again and thanks for all the really helpful content, my gen 2 hayabusa has 14 clicks of rebound on the front and 19 clicks of compression, on the rear rebound it has 24 clicks of rebound, do these numbers seem about the right amount, I know on most other bikes I've owned there's a lot more on the front , my forks are stock and have never been tampered with to my knowledge, the service manual doesn't give the full range of clicks provided but at least they are equal I guess 😁👍🏼
@@catalystreactionsbwreally helpful thank you so much again , I am doing seals and oil on the forks tomorrow so fingers crossed it all goes smoothly 🤞👍🏼
when doing fork seals and changing oil is it good practice to back off all adjusters to the softest position first and if I don't are there any bad outcomes
great info thank you, do you have to do the same thing with the rebound clicks when putting back together on a hayabusa too and is there a way to get it wrong so you don't have the same factory clicks you started with
You turn the rebound adjuster from all the way left to the correct number of clicks right. Install the cap until it bottoms out and bring the jam nut up to the cap and make it snug. Check your full range. if correct set at 6 clicks from maximum and tighten. Check range again.
@@catalystreactionsbw brilliant thank you , so once fluid is in turn the rebound clockwise to it's maximum stock number and snug cap down and bring lock nut to cap and tighten, then bring it back to where u have it when I ride around 5-6 , do the cap up and check full range afterwards . I'm a bit nervous doing it because I'm worried they won't match up and give me equal rebound both sides but if they are different I'm sure there's a way to fix it , in my manual it says when installing cap to back off rebound to softest position and make sure there's 11mm of thread showing on rod above lock nut both forks and then install, your way makes sense tho because if I'm fully clockwise on rebound both needles will get snugged into top of rebound rod at the same height and not much can go wrong then I guess 😁👍🏼
Mein English ist nicht so gut habe aber das meiste verstanden. Was sie hier sagen und machen ist der Wahnsinn. Das Wissen und Verständnis atemberaubend. Ich wünschte ich hätte eine Ahnung davon. Ich habe eine F3 800 Baujahr 2014. wäre es möglich sie per email zu kontaktieren und um Hilfe zu fragen?
so..if my leading edge has more wear,on my back tyre,how do i adjust the rear shock?....i have triumph speed four with new dunlop mk3s...rear shock is stock...in my last tires i had significantly more wear on the leading edge and i would like these dunlops to wear more evenly
great info thanks Dave, I've got a 2009 gen 2 hayabusa and the service manual that I found online that I believe is the gen 2 from the shape and model of bike on picture, it says 95mm air gap but everywhere else online people are saying 120mm and 110mm air gap , I always ride two's up and I've ordered seals and a 7.5w fork oil so what's the best height to go with as I'm really not sure what to do, stock oil is 5w but my preload was almost all taken up from watching cable tie , I'm doing just normal road riding so would it be a problem going for 110mm gap for a plusher ride rather than 95mm with a 7.5 w , thanks
Dave, Great video, thanks! I have 3 Honda ST1100's (I have issues, LOL) I have Maxima 10W in all 3 bikes.The forks on 2 of them work as they should here in So Cal. My oldest, a 1995 ST's forks feel a little mushy compared to the others yet is very plush on the highway. According to Honda part #s all internals are the same. Cartridge on the right and just a spring on the left. I can't decide 15W or 20W, what would you recommend? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The guy on the MT is the definition of rude squid. Whilst the S1000RR guy is the definition of more money then sense/skills. What's he doing on a supersport with that touring helmet?
Dave, I have 2 bikes I'm currently playing with the triangle issue. A 2013 Diavel AMG and a 2003 FZ1. I picked up the Ducati yesterday morning after they installed custom bar extenders, and it's as close as I can get with it. Hopefully, the FZ1 will be completed this week with a 3 1/2-inch riser/extender and it'll be more squared away. Had to have the throttle cable extended out of state. After that, I'll need to reach you to set up these guys. Many thanks!
I tried to put my 06 axle back in and it wouldn't go through the other fork! Pounding it in ruined the whole axle and the fork! I had to sand down a lip on the fork and the axle and then ended up buying a new axle! I don't know how this happened! I think maybe my stand is not level, it's 100 degrees out? Do I have to put the axle in the freezer lol?
Was this a first time event for the axle installation? If so, what was different this time? Were the forks recently worked on? Is this a new stand? Something created an alignment issue and hopefully the new axle will go in with no issues once qwe find the cause.
@@catalystreactionsbw yes just got bike and never removed the wheels before. I do on my dirtbike all the time. I think it's the new stands I got. It was hot out so the parts may have just been expanded and tight.
@@catalystreactionsbw hey thanks for the quick reply, i have the paint spray thing, do you think i should use it. but i will still use the primer spray can
Just subscribed to the channel dave , recently bought a Suzuki gsxs 750 ,im hopeing to do most of my maintenance myself, i take it that unless specific to a certain bike that the knowledge you share is good for any bike , cheers looking forward to seeing more vids
I find it strange he didn't mention a major differentiator - comparing a tourer to a supersport. The difference in handlebar position between the two is huge. Also to not use your arms to prop yourself up, use your legs. Huge difference.
This is an introduction to the principles or ergonomics. The Multistrada 1200 video deals with Tourers and specific ergos. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-m5btSGPPg2s.html
You can do whatever you want to. If you choose to go for your first ever track day, email me for some guidance dave@davemosstuning.com regarding set up and cold pressures etc.
Front tire smaller than rear so ideally I would start with 36/42 if you ever ran into sand or small rocks while turning and using front breaks, you will quickly find out why??? High air pressure means sliding easily less air means better grip.
Some of the best content on tuning there is. Notice how he explains things which is the mark of someone who knows something and not just another MEETOO video. Dave Moss is a true gift to motorcycling and from his videos you can actually accomplish things you have shied away from or thought was too complicated. The gift he gives you is more enjoyment in motorcycling. When Dave Moss says something, pay attention because he didn't pull it out of his rear end unblike all the endless copy paste videos.
Thank you for the compliment. trying to help as many riders as possible have a great handling bike that will perform well in a crisis to improve the end result and avoid an accident.
I have a 07 CBR 600RR manual says 10W here in north east.. i commute and weekend drive with friends. I dont wheelies or track . Whats should i used better. Im about to do it this weekend... Brand and W. Thank you
Thanks for this video! Even though it's been some time since upload and I keep coming back to this video to review the procedure to balance the free fork. I have one question: why would you first tighten the brake calipers which are mounted directly onto the forks before bouncing the front end and not first bounce it and then center and tighten the brake calipers? Only after bouncing, tightening the pinch bolts, lifting it back up to spin the wheel to get the brake calipers centered would give you the best braking performance no?
I set the caliper nut 1/4 turn from tight, bounce the front end and torque the pinch bolts. Then spin the wheel and hold the brake lever firmly on and torque the brake bolts. It has been a while, I am fighting cancer and need to take time for myself to win this fight.
None of this matters at all if your forks are twisted. Remove the forks and roll them to make sure they are straight. Then make sure the steering stem nut is loose. Install one fork and tighten the lower triple clamp bolt/bolts. Install the other fork and see if it will not locate. If that is the case, the lower is bent and needs straightening.
Your choice and preference for this task is yours. Please give everyone a detailed explanation of your procedure. Note that these are 100% stock fork internals.
