This is really good. Over the weekend i locked in and watched a bunch of these videos from your channel about the flow of power and could see it made such a difference in the general understanding of what we did out there today
Two videos in one week! You are knocking it out of the park Mike. This video was definitely one of your best, especially for those of us who are novices. Keep them coming 🙂
Jersey, thank you for making these videos. They are extremely helpful and very much appreciated. I’m always looking forward to seeing them. Great job!!
New tech to the field and had two no cooling calls. Last call today was a fuse popping. Had to call the boss for help and we led it down to a bad contactor. After replacing with a new one to check the coil we swap out the contact and unit fired up.
My ac went out. I have tested voltage at the tstat wires coming out of the wall and confirmed voltage there. I'm not getting voltage at control board for the ac when tstat is on. I'm also not getting low voltage at the contactor. Would the tranformer need replaced?
Went to help someone and got the outside unit from the contact switch to work condensor, then cked the thermostat, know from you that should be first now i know. no power at red to y in attic opened the cover and did not know how to trouble shoot but did ck the drain switch....no water so know it must have been the thermostat or the fuse? but had to turn over to a pro.....now with your help, I'm getting a getter idea.....your thoughts?
Depending on the type of thermostat (those that are still functional when the faceplate is removed), you will read 0 volts between R and Y when in cooling mode because the switch is closed between the terminals. This makes 2 different wires basically the same wire now, meaning you're trying to test for voltage with your probes on the same wire reading 0 volts when there is actually 24 volts there. Using a terminal with a wire that isn't being used in cooling mode (such as W) will give a 24v reading on R if it's there, because that switch between R and W is open, R and W are separate wires at that point and a voltage reading can be made. I have another video on how to test thermostats that goes into details. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JzV22cr0ze8.html If there is no low voltage reading either way, or anywhere in the system for that matter, then typically it is the fuse, the transformer or the high voltage feed into the unit.
Yes, jumpering R to G should start the blower motor if the thermostat is failing to do it. There are some systems with control boards however that will activate the blower on the Y signal (even if the G signal is not making it). Units with fan relay boards in them (no control board) are the ones that rely entirely on the G signal to activate the blower.
