Investment Casting or lost wax casting demonstrated 

What a awesome video, I’m 35 and you remind me of my grandfather , I want to thank you for sharing your knowledge and informing the next generations of true craftsmanship, I hope to be as half as good as you one day!

I am personally very grateful to you Paul for doing this channel. I am sure that many others will feel the same way. I have seen many many people who do a youtube channel that is spurious and has no real merit be successful and don't understand it. I will wait with eagerness for every video you release and hope that we can do this for years to come. Thank you.

Paul, I always learn so much from you. So very interesting. Thanks for taking the time to do this.

Thank You so much for taking the effort of filming, editing and sharing these fantastic videos.

This was an excellent video tutorial! Thank you Paul Hamler.

much thanks for putting this great amount of knowledge out there for everyone.

Thanks Paul. Like it all - Particularly the offset sprue. Regards from John Spargo in Cape Town

WOW. Didn't realize how much work went into that process. Thanks for sharing. Gives me a whole new respect for that type of work.

Very informative and well done. Thank you. I look forward to seeing -- and learning from more of your videos.

Excellent Paul. I hope you can continue to share your knowledge and experience here for many years to come.

First of all, thank you for the video. Even though I have been doing castings for over 50 years, I learned something from your video. You can teach an old dog something new.

Absolutely outstanding video Paul. I am going to have to watch this one a second time to pick up some of the finer points. Thank you so much for sharing your process with us. Fred Ontario, NY

thanks for sharing paul.we're fused silica sand and powder supplier,some new customer don't know how to use fused silica to make ceramic shell,I can share this with them.

That was a great, no-nonsense demo, Paul. Thanks for sharing. I had always wondered how the casting was separated from the investment. I assumed it was broken away, but I see now that it dissolves/fractures into the water as a powder. Very interesting. I learned several things about the process.

That is an excellent tip about the "Boelube"! Thanks for that tip!

Great video! Great information on the jewelers blade lubricant! Thanks so much!!!

This is excellent stuff Paul. I really enjoyed it. I've been researching lost foam casting for a while and wish I'd found your channel earlier. I've learned more here on this video than in a month of reading. I'm grateful to one of my subscribers who suggested I check you out. Excellent work and terrific educational value. Thanks!!!

Thanks, Paul. Fascinating stuff.

Mr Paul I thank you for the info. You are full of wonderfull ideas I didnt think of. I am just starting out and learning a great deal from you Sir.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Excellent video!

Absolutely outstanding. Keep em coming.

Thanks for sharing your skills with us. There's a lot to learn here. Keep working.

Great video love the classic temperature reading tap tap pickup

Thank you for going in depth!! Just learning, incredibly helpful!

This is a really great and thorough video covering the entire lost wax process. I wish the video quality was a tad better, but it's good enough to get all of the important points. Well done, Sir.

Fascinating, looking forward to make an apprenticeship in the field!!!

Currently this is the best channel on RU-vid, I wish you started years ago.

Too many great tips and information to list!

Awesome video Paul thank you so much.

Amazing video and VERY informative! I use centrifugal force with either hand sling or casting machine, thanks for posting!

Very interesting! Thanks for posting this video!

Clear & concise. Thank you Paul.

Exceptional video.. if it's not solid gold it's certainly finely crafted German Silver... probably the best I've seen on the topic to date by a long shot. Thank you very much for passing down some of your wealth of knowledge to any who may have the will to make good use of it.

Thank you for sharing! I learned a lot from this video!

God bless you SIR... WE need sincere people like YOU... To be around forever...

I make very fine bronze castings for miniature furniture. I've got used to flashing when I enject my RTV moulds. To reduce that I've had to make the moulds way thicker than they need to be to avoid distortion. Your mould frames are a stroke of genius to solve this problem.. I don't have a vacuum unit so I debubble using my vibrating fretsaw table and tap the flasks with a stick until the investment is set. I also paint the waxes with investment beforehand to stop bubbles sticking to them. One thing I discovered for incomplete wax castings is to cut a fine channel toward the back of the mould which allows the air to escape. As long as its smaller than the entrance hole it backs up the wax forcing it to fill the mould because its got knowhere else to go.. Great video and I can't wait to give those mould frames a go..

Thank you for showing the brand names and models of the tools you are using. After googling them, I found some awesome websites to help me get started.

That was interesting I just got into green sand casting myself and I'm just taking a look at different things that you could do with a finer detail projects

I would like to see one of your 1911s and miniature I believe that is fascinating great job

Tremendous amount of knowledge. Thank you so much. You sound kind of like a young Jimmy Stewart.

Wow this video is exactly what I was looking for just subscribed!!!!!

What a nice instructional video. Thank you.

So interesting. I would so like to do this type of work. Getting there slowly. Have two designs just about ready for casting, but sand casting not lost wax. So interesting.

At one point I produced a sprue cutting tool rather like an elongated hole saw that slipped down over the trunk of the "tree" and was powered by a drill motor. It's core was 7/16 diameter, so it would fit over a 3/8" central sprue with just a tad of clearance, and buzz of f the individual parts with their sprues still attached so they could then be cut off of their individual sprues with side cutters...no interference issues. I made them from drill rod and hardened and tempered them individually, and those who bought them raved about them in the beginning, but I got distracted by other matters and never pursued them further. They may have been a total bust in later stages...who knows? Anybody who wants to pursue them further, feel free to do so. I am turning 75 in a few weeks and am past the innovation stage......Joe

I subscribed - all new to this - I throughly enjoyed this informative video - THANK YOU !!

thanks for sharing your information very help full .i need to make a wax pot like that. love to see inside how it works

GREAT VIDEO !!!

Great video Paul, I took a jewelry class in High School and we used the same method as well the Centrifugal Force injection method. Thanks for the flash back. Keep up the good work.

This is a great video!

wow !!! what an amazing video. thank you !

i respect any one with the equipment they have experience

wow , thanks for sharing!!!!

Thanks your video was very informative

Excellent, I'm getting ready to cast a chess set made of pure silver that I refined myself. The king will weigh in at between 6 to 8 troy ounces of pure silver. The pawns will be about 2 or 3 troy ounces each. I'll plate one side with gold on pure silver. You've done an excellent job of teaching a new comer some of the finer points, and most importantly, some of the things to avoid. You remind me of me!

old school skill. very clever

Good job

I liked it , there si a Lot of knowledge.

Thank you fore this Tutorial

1st I'd like to Thank you Mr Paul for your time making this video. I ve tried to watch some people make these things and I would have to say you've done a Great Job. All the information and video were awesome. I would like to ask, how do you put a rapper on the inside of your pvc pipe? I see you have a lathe and it makes me think how I could do this another way lol You have a shop that many people Dream of Sir!! GOD Bless! 😇

This video is amazing, thank you for taking the time to shoot, edit and upload it. It’s answered a lot of very specific questions that I haven’t been able to find elsewhere. I’ve been sandcasting non ferrous for a while now but have come up against the limitations of detail/undercuts etc. in smaller parts. Looking forward to trying some lost wax and nearly have all the gear up and running. A quick question if you don’t mind, what investment should I be looking to buy? Or what are good ratios for a shop made mix? There are a lot of conflicting opinions out there and it’s a struggle to know where to start. I’ll be pouring various bronzes. Any help is appreciated! Many thanks, Ollie Sparks.

Gracias maestro. ..porfabor que marca es su inyectora de cera. ..Gracias maestro

Levy son you never quench any metal after casting . Break away the investment with a probe or a screw driver you can submerge the flask in water but only when it's cool enough that you can pick it up with your hands. I use the T shaped tool that tighten the blade on a Stihl edger . With the R & R or the Kerr investments or any that is used in this method of casting make sure when placing the rubber bowl on the pad to remove the air that it's trapped after mixing do not exceed ninety minutes . Usually you will see a rise and fall of the investment following by a bubbling effect that it's also known as boiling water effect . After transferring the investment to the flask allow excess tape or use a rubber sleeve above it's rim so as to the investments rise and fall does not over spill on the flask sides . After the rise and fall of the investment in the flask proceed to release the pressure immediately in the chamber pad . Do not boil the investment while in the flask for this will debilitate it . After at least four hours place the flask in the oven ( kiln) temperature not to exceed 1300 Fahrenheit . For if it does this will also debilitate the investment . I cast at 700 fahrenheit Gold and Silver and 500 heavy or solid pieces . I have never casted Aluminum using a vacuum caster but I would think that if in sand casting application the metal or wooden box mold that holds the pattern design in the clay sand is not heated , the perforated flask should too also be at room temperature after wax has been dissolve in the kiln . Did you look up Belmontmetals.com or Romanoff.com for your vacuum pump oil ? A good cast result is also achieved using virgin or refine metals ! Look up Riogrande.com or Gesswein.com these companies along with vacuum pump oil will have great finishing abrasives !

1st time viewer, love it and thank you for being so DETAILED.

Good video. That is an ingenious wax injector you have got there. Is there a way the wax can flow back into the pot, or does it just build up there on top and you put it back occasionally? Thanks!

Hi. I learned something new today. What kind of mold investment powder are you using? Can you use cast iron or steel or platinum alloy for this kind of molds? Is there a lot of shrinkage? I know nothing about wax casting. I am interested in learning so I can produce my own products. After watching your video there is a lot of work to make a metal part. How much is it to build a couple of parts in steel alloy? Thank you.

i would like to see how you scale down the parts used in the casting keep up your fine and interesting work i look forward to seeing your post thank you Richard Westerfield

Hi, did you put air escape vents in as part of the silicone mould at time of pouring or cut them after?

Very Neat. Their must be a lot of side work for your abilities. For Many parts not available any more. Event people who are working on projects who need parts made. Take Your Time & (most important) Be Safe.. Have a Great Day.

That was great. Excellent video. Very interesting. Do the parts require machining or do you use them as they are?

Excellent video Paul. Very informative. How do you put the taper in the PVC?

Great video! I was wondering if the vacuum is absolutely necessary to the process, or if it can be done without it, I have been doing basic casting but wanted to try this, but I don't have one of those machines. Thanks!

Great video - would just like to add that the silica dust in investment is extremely dangerous when inhaled and a respirator mask should be worn while measuring & mixing it - also clean up with wet rags and dispose of it carefully.

My flask comes out of my kiln glowing red - I think my temperature controller is messed up. 🤔 Its set to be a casting temp of 900f Awsome video, thank you 👍

How does the vacuum take air out of the flask once the metal is poured? I don't see any vet holes. is the investment porous? Fascinating video. Thank you for posting it!

Thank you for the great video packed with years of combined knowledge! One question: are you saying "flast"?

Question: Could the flask that had the top blow out be recovered by topping off the blown out investment and refiring? Have you ever tried that? The reason I ask, is that the interior would still contain viable molds that would be worth trying to recover if you have (like me) spent many hours modeling the wax originals. And thanks for posting this video - really great details and your insights are invaluable.

Awesome video thank you

Hi Paul. Brilliant video. Where I live I can't seem to find any Investment Plaster. Is it okay to use Plaster Of Paris? Also, do you think a plastic syringe could be used as a crude wax injector? Thanks for your help.

What a great video. What is that mold powder called that you are using there ? I'm 61 now and many years ago I thought about making gun parts this way but just didn't have the knowledge. Today I do some sand casting but I'm not very good at it. Stuff is usable but not pretty. Sand casting is definitely a skilled trade. I'm just a millwright. I also make rubber molds and pour engine mounts and intake manifolds for my vintage atv's. Many of the parts for these mid 80's FL350's you can't get anymore from Honda so you have to make your own stuff. I use "Vitaflex 60" . Great idea on those tapered mold boxes. Might have to make some of those on my lathe. Thanks in advance for any replies.

What minimum separation distance would you recommend between the wax imprint and the flask botttom/top and walls?

I've been gathering kit to have a bash at this. There was a wax injector like yours on ebay for $295 plus $115 for shipping to the UK, not to mention the tax this end. Instead I bought a wax pot that the ladies use for 20 quid and a digital thermostat, thermocouple and solid state mains relay from the far east for another 12. The $64,000 questions are, please could you tell me what does the inside of your pump look like and what temperature does your wax pot work at?

Paul, well presented and informative. What brand of RTV clear rubber are you using and where can that be purchased? Thanks. Larry in CA.

Thanks for the information and video. I was just wondering what does it cost to get into investment casting.

Really usefull and informative video, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us! P.S. Your voice sounds incredibly similar to johnny cash's voice! O_O

he said "1911" when i saw the parts on their trees i recognized them, i didn't know anyone was making miniature Colt 1911's . i wonder where we can get a completed "1911" ?? i have a "Star" 1911 look-a-like and love it i can't afford a real full size 1911 but a miniature might be almost as good !!

Very informative. Any chance of a video on the gear needed and process to do the internal tappers?

Awesome video! Thank you Johnny Cash, I mean Paul…(well, you kinda sound like him:)

Superb and valuable. This deserves a wider audience Paul. Suggest you add some keywords to the title "lost wax investment casting jewelry" Nothing like it from start to finish on youtube.

is this actually pulling a vacuum through the dried investment powder casting/flask? I feel like I'm missing something. I dont see how it gets a negative pressure in the cavity of the mold. please someone answer this for me., dumb question. But I see the investment being air tight?

Great video and very informative - I learned a lot. Just one question if I may.......the one that failed because there was not sufficient investment casting covering the molds. If a metal cap, perhaps a screw on cap had been put on the open of the cylinder end to give further support to the investment, would not this help prevent this sort of failure ?

Man that’s a lot of work, I walk up to my 3D printer poor the wax in the tray to the fill line and press start. Done

I've been looking and I can't find a price on one of your 1911s, I know because of the tooling and time it takes you they've got to be at least as expensive as a real one, would you mind giving me a ballpark price? Thanks

Thanks. Really neat though... what does one of these cost?

Tell me please, what kind of wax refining system with a syringe, and an outlet injector? How it works, where can I learn more about it? Or tell me in short. I will be very grateful to you !!!

Hi Paul. Is that 1911 colt functional? (.22 cal)?

I have only one question remaining: Where can I get the proper waxes for this? I ask because the only waxes available to me locally are those for food canning and candles, neither of which work for investment casting.

Where can I get an injection pot like that? What is the brand, model number... What am I looking for? Great video. Subscribed.

Why do u put the investment into the vac. I'm confused about this step. So does the vac suck through the dense investment?

Maybe I missed it but what is the capacity of you furnace?

مبدأ الفكره ممتازه جدا أنا أعمل هذا العمل بالمكنه طرد مركزى