What does Stage 2 mean if it´s only stage 1 300hp setup. There´s even more possible with only software and other fuel pump internals. Up to 330hp without any other modifications. 😅 Stage 2 sounds like, air filter, Upgrade K04, cams + software for about 380-400hp. 🤔
That speed3 driver needs to learn to shift the car faster. It's called flat foot shift. Which means keep your foot down on the gas, and shift it like it's normal. Don't worry about the gas, or how fast your shifting, just keep the gas pedal down amd shift normally. Shifts will seem so much faster, but it's the car that's doing all the work. It's made for this!
Lol, "he needs to learn to shift faster by flat footing shifting his car and obliterating his clutch and drivetrain with every shift, but don't worry just shift like normal and even though at the beginning I said shift faster you don't need to worry about how fast if you flat foot and just redline the car to piss between shifts 🤓🤓🤓🤣" Literally the dumbest comment I've ever seen about flat footing shifting. Entire point is to shift quicker than you would normally and stay in boost. That's it. It's brutal on any car though lol.
@Sprier 27lb dual mass flywheel, designed for repeated flat foot shifting. I do it every time I race, and ive owned 4 speed3s, one over 200k miles 12years, ans I've done on friends speed3s. Repeat after me: IT IS MADE FOR IT
@@copperkeyracing6167 bro said he cleaned intake valves and gained 80whp in his video desc, 12 years or not you actually know nothing about the platform. Literally repeating information from the car and driver article
Nice power from the mps , if it still has stock rods watch you don't throw one around 3000 to 4500 rpm range they are renowned for it . Fatigue in the rod's will sneak up on you with every race .
@brotherhood_ofstreetracers4268 The state I live in a 2.3 unbroken short block is worth more than an evo 4g63t engine not because they are great for the simple fact that there none available locally and like to grenade and the rest of the drive line and chassis just gets parted out because of it .
@brotherhood_ofstreetracers4268 If yours isn't stock you must have had it tuned properly with the correct ignition timing , or you have forged internals.
1:35 yooo, you guys have different rear head-rests than American. I've had my 2011 Speed3 since it was new. Ours are similar to the driver headrest, and it's a pain in the back, because you have to turn them down before you lower those rear seats or else they wont go all the way down.
The RSX-S race was interesting, as I've owned my RSX-S for 22years, and my speed3 for 12years. RSX-S with full boltons is 80hp more than stock, so 280hp, but only 245whp. The speed3 with just dealer intake, wheels, and cooling mods is 306whp to the wheels! The speed3 needs 50hp more to stay with the RSX-S because of 500lbs more in weight... but that's 60hp more that the speed3 has... and that's if the rsx us at 280hp, but it's not. It's 265hp, or 230whp. So, that's just huge! 70hp different... and the RSX-S obviously loses.
у меня были в свое время мпски тройки и шестерки и срываться с места на них - геморр еще тот . Автомат для этого им нужен как воздух..Шестерка полноприводная и без сильной перегазовки--- очень очень мало момента , а с перегазовкой туговатое специфическое малоинформативное сцепление .Оно бесило все годы эксплуатации и кто другой не садился за руль, то те же тыканья и долгое привыкание и чертыхания ,если нужно улететь на старте . . А на тройке стоковой чуть перегазовал и ушел в шлиф,недогазовал и потерял вечность.Короче специфические весьма аппараты для езды по городу даже,а про спорт вообще молчу,а ещё со стейжами!!! Хорошо быстро тронуться на них -это подвиг,по сранвению с многими конкурентами.
Wait, before I watch this BS title that makes no sense, but I'm curious about... what the heck is stage 2? And who came up with what stage 2 means on a Speed3? Unless Mazda came up with it, it means nothing. Dodge came up with stages on their SRT4, so with that, there is no argument. Next up. 300hp? Really? That's like stock power. You just order the car with the dealer MS intake on it and lighter wheels, and you are at 300hp at the wheels, which is like 340hp at the crank... so what the hell! You can hit 306whp, without touching the exhaust or tuning, which is 345hp in fact. Then full boltons and a tune and you gain 90hp from there. So 396whp or 450hp. Stage 1 would be basically 306whp. Stage 2 would be the basic intercooler upgrade, downpipe, fuel pump internal, and a tune. Stage 3 would be adding the exhaust and exhaust manifold and a tune... but why remove the downpipe to do it again, so stage 2 is full boltons at 450hp, and stage 1 is just 306whp, or 350hp. Those are the only mods required, and the only stages that make sense. Stage 1, and stage 2... or you can cheap out and go stage 1.5 before going stage 2... but why call it stages. That's stupid.
Oh my goodness, you commented again and it's literally just as wrong and stupid. No stock turbo "Boltons and tune" speed3 is hitting 396whp 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 some parts companies still use stages CORKSPORT being a large player for Mazda, and bros got stickers all over his car. Uhhhh, throw an intake on a speed3 and you're hitting 300whp? 🤣🤣😭🤣😭🤣😭🤣😭🤣😭🤣😭🤣
"you can hit 306whp... (A 70whp gain btw) WITHOUT TUNING THE CAR!" that's incredible! How does that work? Stock fuel pump and boost controller just crank themselves up and boom 306 to the ground!
I'd love to know where MS3 (or even 6) are 300WHP stock with an intake. MS3 are circa 260hp (crank) stock. A 3in Exhaust with 2nd cat delete, with a 2.75in+ Intake will net you circa 280-285hp. The 2nd cat delete being the very important factor in improving power, otherwise it's still under or around 270hp. Throw in a tune from a good tuner and you're looking at 300hp (crank) on 95US/99UK. Stock K04 turbo is good for 330-350hp typically, maxing out at circa 22psi +/-. At which point you're high-flow catted dp or turbo-back, 3in+ intake with turbo inlet, upgraded TMIC or FMIC and maybe ported inlet/VTCS delete with a good tune and high octane pump minimum. Bigger turbo like CST4/BNRS or Hybrid is needed for above this. Stock fuelling runs out (even with HPFPI-which is needed from the get-go anyway) at around 370whp which is just over 400hp, but at this point people usually are on or about to go water/met, or an e30/e85 blend to keep KR down. Stock rods are the weak point going higher up, with torque being the thing that breaks them, so people usually go around 370-400lbft on stock internals with 400-450hp. Higher HP figures have been seen on stock internals, keeping the torque down but they're on e85 etc. The fact you mentioned fuel pump internals made me think you've got experience with the platform or some knowledge, but the numbers you're throwing out for the mods are otherwise whack buddy. The 1st Gen Speed3 was the most powerful FWD hot hatch of it's time with its circa 260hp (crank), until the 2.5 MK2 Focus RS took the reigns with 300hp (still at the crank). They reckon that "Stages" were actually invented by Gran Turismo and shops/tuners/people started using the same analogy. People use it because to them it's a goal. I don't use the terms personally, but I don't hate on people that do. It's just an easy way to say what level of mods you've done, even if it's extremely vague and not with any real consistency, it works for people. You're either mistaking the MS3 for the MK3 RS or you had a "stock" MS3 with a bigger turbo already on it and PI or running e85 or something.
@Sprier Stock on a dynojet, when new and/or not full of carbon, is 260whp. Yes, the car is massively underrated just as the CTR. CTR stock, rated 306hp, puts down 290whp on a dynojet. Next, with the MS3 intake from the dealer, that gives 20whp more, added in, nets you 280whp. Next up, and just like on a CTR, get lighter wheels and tires... and you do know that stock wheels are 24lbs... so get 16lb or less RPF1s, which is the wheel of choice to freeing up power. Tires, get light weight Continental ExtremeContact Sport. Done, you just freed up 20whp, without touching how much psi, or retuning the computer. This nets you 300whp. Next up, the coolant lines attached to the intake manifold are robbing you of power by heating up the manifold and air charge. It's proven to give 2% power to remove those lines and add a thermal gasket. Done, you now have 306whp. Come to Austin, TX anytime, bring your stock car, and we will do these mods and you can race a lightly modded (intake+wheels) CTR and watch me beat it with your car, while I perfectly hit every shift while using flat foot shifting that the MS3 comes stock with, but the CTR does not. Should be 306whp vs 306whp, because the intake on CTRs give them nothing, and the stock wheels and tires are already very light on a CTR. Aka, it's very much maxxed out on it's stock tune... AND I am a kseries guru, and I have been tuning kseries for 20 years, including CTRs. Aka, I'm a Honda guy who happens to also do Mazdaspeed3s. As for the next comment, which I mostly saw a lot of misinformation brought on by the confusion that is concluded and put to rest by doing proper carbon cleaning... at least in my opinion why the misinformation exists... The K04 on a MK6 2.0 GTi/GLi makes 400whp. Go study up on the VW forums, and you'll see... and that tells you right there how and why it's possible to hit 400whp on a larger 2.3L, and infact will make that same power at lower RPMs due to how larger motors spool turbos earlier... AND the MS3 DISI motor is no lessor in head technology and flow than a lessor 2.0L VW motor. If you think VW (ROFL) has better motors than Mazda, then go buy a VW, and stop wasting your and anyone elses time by spreading misinformation.
@EvoBeard Glad we agree on using stages, to describe what you have, as being useless. Next up, with my tuning and advice on what mods to go with on a stock speed3 for full bolt-ons, which obviously includes fuel pump internals, I've maxed out the fuel injector duty cycle to a safe 90% duty cycle in the summer heat. Perfect tune, no mods possible, because you are out of fuel capacity. This puts you at just under 400whp. What else is there to know, other than I've done the above repeatedly on many customers cars... and all running as strong as when I tuned them, so long as they stay on top of their regularly scheduled carbon cleaning which I can do for them, or I teach them and they do it themselves. Yes, it's an amazing platform... which I recommend only 2 ways to go, 306whp with light mods, OR full boltons stock turbo 400whp. Never go big turbo, never go get the extra injectors, extra fuel cell, extra fuel pump, fuel controller, special manifold for extra injectors, and obviously the built motor... unless you ditch the FWD Speed3 and go AWD Speed6... Why go AWD Speed6? Because the stock transmission blows any honda transmission completely out of the water, handling 800whp like a champ, while the best kseries tranny can only hold 550whp and then you have to go to a sequential or dog box. Been there, done that. MS3/MS6 Tranny is incredible, so have at it with AWD ONLY beyond 400whp. Why invest all that for maybe 100hp more, that when/where FWD starts to become a real issue. Don't go with a garbage small CST4 turbo, get the big one that can hit 600whp minumum (CST6 or better). 800whp turbo would be best to match that strong setup you're going for. Lastly, never ever ever go water/meth. I'd rather shoot myself up with fentanyl, as you never know what you're going to get. You're just going to blow your motor with that. A true engineer/scientist would never recommend that garbage... not for a street car. Only if you don't mind rebuilding/blowing it every few runs. With stock turbo, never ever go with an ethanol mix. You don't need it to reduce knock retard, if your tuner knows what he is doing. Ethanol is just a patch for bad tuning/setup, and you are decreasing your fuel capacity and hp potential by doing that. Pump 91-93oct only. If you are getting knock retard, go fix your setup, as that should not be happening, and don't try to patch it with ethanol.
