Your Jotul ( pron. Yer-tul) is a multi-fuel burner i.e. wood & solid fuel, as it has a grate to allow air to enter from beneath the the solid fuel. Dedicated wood burners such as the Jotul No 3, have no grate, only a flat base, as wood burns best on a bed of it's own ashes, with the air supplied only from above, albeit in an airwash design. If you do use any solid fuel, you should know that it virtually always contains a small % of Pet-coke (for ease of lighting,) derived from petro-chemicals. This certainly causes crazing of the glass such as you have experienced here, but it is almost impossible to source solid fuel without it as an ingredient. I now have Morso, as Scandinavian cast iron stoves are often regarded as the best, by many users. Thanks for posting.
Huge thank you for making this video, I know understand What happens to the glas of my pellets stove. I bought a second hand unit which was 10yrs plus. The glass was totally cloudy and nothing except the light from the flames could be seen, no flame was visible. I used a dremel like tool with a fine buffing disc to remove the worst buildup on the glass. After I used a Da polisher with heavy cut compound. The result is crystall clear. Thats because you made this video, so huge thank you from Norway😀
Thank you so much for this video. We had recently added a new wood stove and the boys being overly excited added fresh cut wood and absolutely darkened (thickly) the viewing window. I was perplexed as to how to get it off and after trying many methods had removed most of it but if ours does get filmed at some point I can at least work on that now as well!!! Much appreciated!!!
Thank you for this. Exactly what I needed. There are a zillion videos about cleaning the glass. None that address the permanent haze that I have and the root cause. I too cheat with the ash door….no more :). Greatly appreciate!!
I had the same with my (multi-fuel) stove. After a few days of switching from wood to smokeless fuel though, the glass cleared right up! Whether the smokeless burns hot and clean enough to remove the tarnish I’m not sure, but an unexpected positive!
A good hot fire will remove any blackness ive found. Blacknees on the glass corms from unseasoned wood and low heat fires. One or both. This glass needed repair dramatically. Please check out the follow up video to see what it took to fix it.
Thanks for video. I couldn’t get my glass clear and didn’t know why. But I just used my mates polishing gear. I started with his most abrasive buffing pad. That got the glass looking great in about 10 minutes (my glass is a lot smaller than your’s). After that I went through all the pads working my way down the grits. I probably didn’t need to do this but eh. Now it looks awesome, thanks for the know how. I can’t wait to get home and stick it back on the stove.
All you needed was some news paper and, ash hahaha, just kidding. Couldn't help myself after reading all the "know it alls" leaving comments, even though they didn't even bother to watch the video, or readed comments first. Great job man, super helpful, thanks for taking the time to share this. This is exactly the problem I have, and now I have a solution. Take care.
I love when people like you watch my stuff. Thanks for paying attention. Even if my heart sank when I read the first line of the notification. 😂😂 thank you very much.
I must say, your style to edit and produce videos is one of the best i've seen. I'd be concerned about how many thousands of inches you removed and weakened the integrity of the fire glass??
Thank you very much for the compliment. I put a lot of work into making these videos. it’s nice that someone noticed. you are right it would thin the glass down a little bit so far it is not caused any problems whatsoever and is still working just fine. It’s all I could really say about it.
I tried everything. Ash/water/ newspaper etc, fireplace glass cleaner, barkeepers friend powder with scourer etc etc. nothing worked for the ‘milky glass’ then read about this issue with the glass and was resigned to either replacing the glass completely or hours of this. As a last resort I tried crc paint doctor I already had for my car. It cleared the glass instantly. Not saying it will work for everyone but is certainly arguably worth a try.
Brilliant. I’ve got a 20+ year old Jøtul F3CB that got a wee bit hot once or twice (like the top started glowing a nice dull red - oops 😬) and it’s had that haze for many years now that windex and 000 or 0000 steel wool won’t touch. I’ll have to rummage around and see what’s on hand for cutting compound. Or try these freebee polishing pads I got awhile back- Thanks for posting this!
I had a very similar work with my car headlights (same glass not plastic), i used a wet 1000 corse sand paper, then medium 3000, and i finish with fine 5000 grade sand paper, but u must always sand it wet, and not dry... I have done all by hand only, didnt had any buffer, it would be a much faster for sure! But my car headlight all was fog up, and nasty cloudy from direct sun light damage, and it worked great, its like brand new again...
Thanks for the input! When we make our wood stove investment, this will CERTAINLY come in handy, THANK YOU! By the way, what is the wood you (primarily) burn in YOUR area of the country? We're west coast Oregon 🌲🌲🌲🌲
@@AlfonsLC I Think if people can find your video in a google search, they would have a problem solved, I often tried to clean mine without success, now I know. Thank you!
Ah, the labor of love. I was wondering if Pumice powder would be too aggressive, or not aggressive enough? Nice job, I know the feeling of a job well done even if nobody else does. Cheers
Could you tell me the best polish list and how to avoid this in the future I was told to buy a new glass for my log burner it has round glass in thanks from Scotland 🏴👍
I really enjoyed Scotland in my time there. I have some videos posted of it. So. I showed what i used in the beginning. Just some basic buffing compound. The same stuff you would buff paint on a car with. Harsher grit to a lighter grit. Looks perfect. Taking the glass off is one thing. Putting it back in air tight is another. Make sure you have all the needed gaskets and fireplace silicone ready.
alfons great video, ive watched these stove videos and you make things very clear and easy to understand thanks, im not sure the stains are all down to user error, with the ash pan door when you boost it, or else why would you also have that soot spot on your new glass also, is it happening regardless of what you do?, could you use this stove and never get any glass stain damage?
I really very much appreciate this compliment it makes my day as most people just take the time to complain about how easy it is to clean the glass with ashes dipped in newspaper. So thank you this already makes my day. I know it was user error the first year when I was using unseasoned wood and had a hard time keeping the fire going at a temperature hot enough to heat my home. That’s why the glass was so bad. The second year I had seasoned wood but I went to start the fire in lazy fashion by using the ash pan door and then forgot. Allowing the stove temperature to get very very hot burying the thermometer even. And then I had that Right after. So yes I believe it was user error completely. I just today installed the glass that I cleaned in this video back in the stove it is perfectly clear and I will not open the ash Pandora to start a fire this whole year no matter what. And this will be the definitive test. I have had hot would lay against that glass for hours and even hot coals pile against it and no damage like this has occurred.
@@AlfonsLC unseasoned wood is a shock,doing them stains, as i know its common sense wood burns better well seasoned, but i would never thought it would do this to the glass,im looking to buy a stove next year so im learning from you, i want mine in the main living space so we can sit and watch it, it will also be used to cook on and pipe a water cylinder into,so your videos are a great help, thanks
@@lazycarper7925 Well it was the fact that unseasoned wood does not burn the stove worth a damn that made me do it. And not necessarily anything different about the wood or a chemical reaction from the green. I ran out of my seasoned stuff too early in the year and had no alternative as wood is my only source of heat. The third video will finalize my system and how I do everything. I think what you were doing sounds like a great plan. And i really appreciate and I’m humbled that my videos help somebody. (-:
if you have the ash door open, you have to open the glass door and equalize the pressure before you close the ash door. never just close the ash door with the fire lit or it will destroy your glass, close the ash door then slowly close the glass door
What is the name of the bridge in the opening shot of the video, it's amazing. I'm from Pittsburgh, we have a great cement arched bridge here, the George Westinghouse bridge.
Hey, while you're new to wood heating, most of that heat with a cellar/basement wood stove is passing out to dirt --the foundation.. Stoves are small space heaters where you spend time. It's what we do for decades.
Couldnt say. Dont know anything about it. But. No “cleaner” would touch this. It wasnt dirty. Ash got imbedded in the glass when it overheated and needed to be taken down a millimeter or 2 to get it out.
Nicholson, you say? I know that bridge/viaduct anywhere. Just a little bit away from me In Dallas Pa. That stove must have a weird air intake. I have had my Quadrafire for 3 years, and no matter what kind of burn conditions I have, never had my glass do that. It always comes clean easily with Rutland glass cleaner. Have you tried a different quality ceramic glass?
Yeah nicholson. Love my little town (-: Maybe i failed to be clear in my explanation. i hope not. If you leave the ashpan door air goes into the burn chamber at a very high rate. From the center out. Creating ash that goes in all directions. This is why they say dont burn with that door open so strongly. Also happens if some wood is leaning on it. In excessive heat. The ceramic glass is jotuls factory glass tough stuff. But overheated and ash blasted is what caused it. My fault. Not the ceramic.
Youre EXACTLY right. And the shame is this is normally my strong point. My friend kirk. Thats him constantly. If you want to see a man who is this way in the extreme. Check out my mercedes diesel jeep wrangler build (-: youll have a good laugh at us for this reason as well. Ha
Have you tried oven cleaner? It works better than wood ash. It's what I always use. Let the stove cool down to about 300 degrees and spray the glass with Easy-Off oven cleaner. Let the cleaner work for a bit and wipe off. Then clean with Windex to remove any haze.. Oven cleaner doesn't work very well on cold glass..
This isn’t glass. Its ceramic. The ammonia in windex can crack it when it heats up again. A bad idea. Thats why woodstove “glass” cleaner is free of ammonia. Check out the pinned comment and the follow up video detailing whats up with the glass.
@@AlfonsLC I have to say nonsense. I've been using the oven cleaner/windex combination for 12 years on my Alderlea T5 without any ill effects. You would have to use a cleaner with a higher concentration of ammonia than windex..
@@tb5255its safer to just use the ammonia free stuff. Its not expensive. And its like wearing safety glasses. You wish you used them only after you needed them. That glass isnt cheap. But i did try oven cleaner. Only buffing a buffer compounds and allot of work repaired the damage to the glass.
It amazes me how many people still leave this comment about ashes and newspaper. Haha. There is a pinned comment addressing it right above where you wrote this. There is a follow up video on this. The glass is damaged and needed repair. In this video i show the details.
Even easier - fine steel wool (0000 grade) and....ammonia (I keep mine in a spray bottle)!!! I have tried many tricks and this is BY FAR the easiest so far. NO scrubbing required. 0000 wool will NOT scratch your glass.
You may be right. But i didnt want to risk deeper scratches. And having yo buff much longer yet. This did come out perfectly clear. Watching it now (-: thanks for letting me know.
@@AlfonsLC I know - I was thinking the same thing. After I made that comment, you suggested the possibility of using a buffing compound that had a little more "grit". I think that is a better suggestion. For one thing, that is usually how polishing is approached with cleaning plastic glass lenses on cars. You use a 3 step process with polishing compound. With really bad cases you can use super fine grit sand paper and then use successive finer and finer compounds to finish. In any event, I appreciate your video. I just bought a used Vermont Castings stove that has severely darkened glass. Your video tells me I have a chance to make it good again. Thumbs up!
@@freeinhabitant2422 thanks so much. Wish i could see how you make out. This particular buffing compound is exactly what my friend uses to buff his plastic windshield.
Great video! The polish process takes a little bit of time and I'm always looking for new ways of doing it; thanks! I don't know how many times I was told I could just use wet newspaper. Ha!! Here's a video a made that's a variation on what you did. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9HnfIlqqaJk.html
Ash- color usually brown, sticks to the window because the wood is still wet. Wood should season 2-3 years before use. Wood should be totally gray in color"........not brown like wood color looks. Easy way to clean it is at the end of the season after your stove has cooled at bit not hot. Use a utility scraping blade and it peels right of with no scrubbing. Looking at his wood it is green. What a waste of time he is doing.
Maybe you weren’t listening when i describe how the ash gets embedded IN the ceramic window. It cant be “cleaned” its hardened in the glass when the window cools. A thin layer of ceramic has to be removed and the embedded ash goes with it. The wood is kiln dried.
