Is Our Electricity Important To Enhance Our System's Performance? The UGLY TRUTH! 

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Jay, I could not agree with you more on your recommendations in this video. I have done these exact same things in my system and have found them to best achieve the potential of my Audio Research components. Clean electricity is the lifeblood of any high-end system and getting it right is crucial to getting the most out of your components.

Thank you for getting the facts out, Jay. Outlets make a difference. I've changed sockets many times to spot the differences. However, same brand & model might not be able to reproduce music in the same presentation as the other would, at least from my experience sadly. So i'll just share my dac/pre-amp & power amp with the most preferred 2-gang socket. Havent spend much yet on a high quality audiophile electrical socket for my gryphon diablo 250. I've changed my whole line of circuit breakers in the distribution board box after hearing the differences made through these contact points. Looking forward to your comparisons. Glad you've found the culprit! Thanks again for coming out brave on youtube with such a sensitive topic. Now i can share with people my experience backed up with a video of another fellow audio enthusiast.

Jay im late watching this video but dude! I have to say thank you. I swapped my builder grade outlet to a Shunyata and OMG. Can’t believe I been missing out on how good my system actually is. This video was gold for me bro

Hi jay,I have a $100.00 dollar ps audio outlet that I'm currently using and it works fine,thanks for all you do,HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

Peak power 6000W / 240 v = 25 amps per 3050 into 2 ohms. That is why Boulder is recommending 30 amp sockets per mono block

I totally agree what you say. I have the same experience. Amp strait into the wall. I have dedicated line for my sources(dac, streamer, preamp) that is totally isolated from power amp(diffrent line). And that was the best decision in my life in audio hobby. And yes all the outlets sounds diffrent. I had Furutech NCF, Viborg rhodium, Viborg gold, Oyaide swd-xxx-e. All of them sound totally diffrent when i pluged my amp(Luxman, Sansui) into them. Diffrent soundstage, dynamic, timbre, resolution, etc. Its not minimal change in sound signature, Its a big change. Thanks for this video, cheers

In the overall scheme of things, the cost of electrical cabling is a mere fraction of the entire cost of an ultra high end hifi system. And so if one is considering building a music room, it is worth investing to feed the hifi gear with clean power that has as little electrical noise in it as possible. What seems to work for me is dedicated 20A commercial grade 8 gauge armored/shielded power cables from junction box, properly grounded and terminated with hospital grade outlets/plugs. For what its worth the Furukawa/Shunyata outlets/plugs as mentioned by Jay and others here are great stuff and will do an even better job if the source power is cleaner.

I use two Shunyata outlets. Huge difference over standard run of the mill outlets. Need to improve my panel.

Thank you Jay, great video, you are getting better at presenting in front of the camera in every video!

My 5000w (2500 x2) sub amp won’t even trip my 20 amp circuits. I’ve tried lol. Btw, when is the outlet comparison video coming? I’m currently using PS Audio 20a outlets

one of the cheapest upgrades you"ll ever make. Breaker to outlet! I heard an immediate difference and even better after break in. I was skeptical going into it. Using 10/2 copper braided, audiophile outlet , higher quality breaker 20A.

I've been super curious how battery power sounds as opposed to mains. Batteries produce much cleaner power than mains.

so informative...thanks, Jay

I love my Furutech outlet. Huge difference

Here's my journey in part which has been entirely different. I was a bright student who spend four grueling years of mental work in a school that taught only science and engineering where I majored in electrical engineering and graduated in the top half of my class. On my first job it didn't take me long to realize that I didn't know anything. So I decided that if it was ever to become a real engineer I would have to learn everything I could from everyone I met who could solve any problem I couldn't. I also learned that I would have to get my hands dirty, very very dirty. Working in what was at the time the largest steel mill in the world I met a lot of people and learned a lot. Soap and water invariably got my hands clean. The management told the group of recent grads I was in it would take five years to turn us into engineers. It took me ten. That is when practical experience and theoretical knowledge began to merge to an increasingly great degree. BTW if you want to attend an engineering school you'd better like a lot of very difficult mathematics. It's the language of science that engineering is based on. No machine can be better than its power supply. You can consider the power supply to go all the way back to the grid including all of the electrical power generators that are connected to it. What comes into your house, office, factory, may not be what is desired or ideal. The utility companies are allowed to do that to you within certain limits. There are nine categories of anomalies. Most equipment is only designed to deal with some of them to a greater or lesser degree. The function of a power supply in an electronic device is to supple DC voltage to tubes, transistors, ICs, diodes, that has a constant voltage and can supply current as much and as quickly as needed. To do this AC has to be rectified to DC, filtered, regulated to maintain the desired results within limits specified by the engineer who designs it to within limits he or she feels are acceptable for a particular application. The most stringent requirements are for laboratory power supplies for general use and for the most sensitive instrumentation. Those who manufacture them specify all of their pertinent characteristics as performance specifications. If your electronic device varies in performance due to a different power cord, plug, receptacle, circuit breaker then it is not doing its job adequately. If it were those factors wouldn't matter the power supply would correct for them. In a $200 receiver we don't expect much. In a multi ten thousand dollar amplifier, preamplifier, DAC, or other electronic device we expect virtual perfection. If we haven't got it, the Unit is not worth what you paid for it. For electronic instrumentation the manufacturer will define the limits of the quality of the power input to achieve the desired sensitivity and accuracy of his instrument. You should not need any kind of power conditioner, regenerator, special wires, plugs, outlets, or anything else to achieve the desired results consistently. If you do, the power supply you bought isn't doing its job. I should also be able to store enough energy to supply bursts of power that exceed the power input as well as filter out harmonics and be immune to variations of input voltage to a reasonable degree. Diagnosing which of the nine anomalies is a problem for you requires special instrumentation and the knowledge to use it and interpret the results. If you want a good power cord, use a heavier gage wire. You can solder it directly into our device, you don't need an IEC or any other type of input receptacle on the back. At the other end you don't need a receptacle at all. You can hard wire your device to a safety disconnect switch. Standard ratings are 30 amps, 60 amps, and 100 amps. You can use any size you want as long as its rating is as great or greater than the circuit breaker feeding it. The higher the rating the less the contact resistance. You can also use it as an on off switch if you can leave your devices switched on all of the time. Unlike the little switch or relay in your equipment it will likely last forever. The come in 1,2,3, and 4 pole designs. It is illegal to switch off the neutral wire. It should remain connected bypassing the switch. Your local electrical code official may allow an exception. If you want to switch the neutral off, the electrician should speak with him first.

What outlets should I use for a music studio?

Jay, you may want to check the type of wire used from the breaker box to the outlets; see what it is. We recently had an electrician run two dedicated wires from seperate breakers in the breaker box to a pair of Synergistic Research orange outlets with SR's carbon fiber cover plates. One wire was 8 gauge stranded 99% pure copper; the other 10 gauge Romex (solid core aluminum). The outlets are side by side so it's easy to compare. Surprisingly, the Romex sounds better; cleaner, clearer, more dynamic, more immediate. The copper sounds dull, muddy in comparison. Something to consider...

Trial by Fire! Knowledge earned! Sometimes that is the only way we can aquire what we Desire! Jay, I love your Perseverance to see things through! May GOD continue to Bless your Journey!

For highest performance, using heavier gauge, dedicated circuits using (minimum 10awg wire), ideally one for every component isn’t about amperage or watts it’s about lower resistance and lower noise (interference..)

Don't know if it's already been commented on, so please forgive a possible repeat, but I'm not so sure the math is correct. Maybe a class D amplifier will put out and pull 1500W from your wall because it is relatively efficient but a class A amp putting out 1500W will pull much much more. Yes Boulder probably includes some sliding biasing to help with overall average efficiency but during peak RMS power I would guess the amp biasing increases also. Your peak wattage draw can/may be up to 3 times your rated power for a class A.

Absolutely 100% true about the outlets!!! I have three different outlets in my distribution unit and they all sound different. I have found that different outlets sound better on different components. The one that sounds best with the preamp doesn’t sound best with the DAC or power amps. You have to mix and match to see what works best with a particular component.

So which one sound better? Furutech or Shunyata? Furutech NCF AC Rhodium is tempting..

Wow, what does this say about Boulder? Thanks for this update Jay!

Some folks add another step, going to DC batteries then back. Weird huh? Thanks! Steel in the signal path is degrading. Quality copper is king.

Furutech all the way! :) it matters alot!

I maybe wrong here, but the standard wall plugs go to 1500 max, and 15A. So both amps can use one plug.

Quantum Science Audio Black-Red AC Outlets are the world's best period !🤩

the important thing is to not have DC in the AC line ..... it causes hum in the transformers

This is the 1st time I've seen Jay's Marantz AV processer in any of his videos. Does Jay watch movies or TV in his lab?

You are correct...those 30 amp outlets were designed for washing machines and industrial equipment....not high performance audio.

I blew up my outside transformer so the company change and installed a new one! I got a 10% increase in detail with the new one! Attached an EMT pipe to my rc heli and flew it to touch the both lines! Boom ! In 6 hours I had a huge upgrade in sound!

Unrelated advice: Dont wear your necklace with that mic, its touching it and it makes really unpleasant noise 😆

So, after all that, we come to a serious question: do you spend all of your money (a quarter million dollars) to buy 1500 watt monos, which you'll feed directly from your whimsical wall power, OR you can do better, buying smaller monos which you will feed from their own, dedicated, big Stromtanks? ( And save some money too?)

Thank you sir!!!!!!!

what are you running behind with everything! the set always starts from the wall with a good audio group and power outlets. in my club we have done it for years, even a separate earthen in the ground. the set only starts with this

It depends on what equipment you have. Very power hungry speakers low efficiency with low impedance will require more power from the amplifier which in turn will drain more electricity from the wall outlet. The producer reccomends my power amp to be feed with a 20A outlet though I use 16A and honestly I can’ t hear any difference at least with my speakers/listening habits. I don’ t crank up the volume too much either so maybe that helps. Dynamics don’ t suffer even on a simple 16Amp outlet in my setup.

As an electrician I find it hard to believe a plug can make such a difference the electricity jumps only once. The rest of the system has the signal electricity jumping a hundred times from cables to inside the Amps and all. Now if you have a really old plug with loose prongs inside then maybe but anyways I won't say your wrong. I use hospital grade Hubbell plugs and make my own power bars with hospital grade Hubbell plugs and it does the job. I'll look into it further thanks for the great video

Power is most important, I’ve had good luck with Oyaide R1s , I want to try Synergestic research purple , I wonder if anyone here have tried it , Furutech NCF is not something I like it has too much If artificial sound to it .

Please, one person give an explination of HOW a receptical, which has virtually zero resistance, zero capacitance, zero inductance, Only works or doesn't has any effect by the time you get to the secondary side of the gears power supply, that's the power thats used to create the audio signal. Most audiophiles learned to hear differences that are real, but never went the next step and learned to not hear differences that are not there. Extremely hard to do. Whether ego, or inability or whatever, we want to believe our ears. Our brain and ears play tricks on us. On many things it was hard for me to learn and admit I was hearing things that were not there, but my desire to spend $$ on real differences was stronger. Stop and consider, maybe your system is actually sounding as good as is possible, but we want to search for something more.

You have to account for the efficiency in your power calculation. The efficiency of the amplifiers should be around 50%, so you have to double your number. Than you actually do run out of juice on a 20Amp circuit

20amp ded line. Shunyata Research SR-Z1 outlet to Alpha XC power cord going into Denali 6000s 20amp. Kimber Kable PK10 power cord .75m into Coda v3 amp. Amplifier does great running thru power conditioner. Would amp do better straight into wall? Rather doubtful!

You need to try Synergistic Research orange outlet properly grounded. It makes my system sound far better.

Oyaide AUDIO MIJINKO Wall Outlet R0, specifically the R0 version that is no coated. For around $100 it is a bargain.

Are you saying the Boulders are rated at 1500 watts of output power to the speakers? If so, that has nothing to do with the wattage they are drawing to make the 1500 watts unless they are class D.

Have you tried 30amp twist locks

FWIW, hifi reviewer Steve Huff says his power quality and amplifier humming issues were both finally solved, after years of experimentation, by the Puritan PSM156 Purifier.

As a master electrician - for sure, those amps aren’t pulling anywhere near 30 amps- Disappointing the mfr would recommend 30amp outlets. Stupid. My entire system lives on a dedicated 20 amp circuit, and I have basically the system you saw on one of your trips this year- Mc 1.2kW monos and SF speakers with a really high end digital front end. Need to keep it real with everyone.

Power output and power consumption is not the same. The 1500 watt is the amps power rating. The power draws are 5000-6000 watts at full power. That's why you need 30amps outlets. 5000 watts at 240volt is a lot more than a few amps lol. It needs 30+ amps outlets if you are going full tilt. And that's per block. Remember those are peal 2000 watts pr channel into 8 ohms. And 6000 watts into 2 ohms. Your gonna burn a lot more power than 6000 watt pr monoblock as they are not very efficient. You might even burn down your power installation if you push them to the limits.

You may be confusing music Watts with electrical Watts when doing your maths. I suspect those amps pull way more than 1500 Watts?

Hi Jay. you have mentioned that the Bolder's Monos were designed for 220 volts [ If I understood correctly ]. as the voltage in the U.S. is 110 volts. how do you increase it from 110v to 220 volts?. Also, have you ever tried to connect the electric wires that come out from the wall directly to the power cables wires that are connected to your amps? {no outlets, no connectors, and no soldering ] ?? you will be surprised to the increase in quality that you will get.

Would you consider trying the big papi Stromtank for the boulder amps?

Bolder recommends 30 amp, but you had to retrofit the OEM cables to 30 amps? And change the sockets in your room for said amps. Then have sockets rewired because you didn't hear a difference. Then go back to 20amp. 😵‍💫

You only use 80% capacity of a 20amp circuit. You shouldn’t exceed 16amps

Jay, Are you using a solar roof?

Straight into the wall with even the finest outlets is seriously substandard in results and AUDIBLE performance compared to virtually perfect created power for Amplifiers direct into virtually perfect created power equipped circuits And outlets. ZERO CONTEST...ONE SOUNDS BROKE...ONE HAS Natural STARTLING REALISM

That's why I create my own virtually perfect power...that has ZERO EQUAL at any price

As the token Electrical Engineer, I'll just point out that you still need 2 dedicated circuits at 120V. Each amp is 1500 Watts, which is 12.5 Amps, but if you connect both on a single circuit, that's 25 Amps. Your 20 Amp breaker would immediately trip at that load. Also, I'm not a Boulder expert, but there may be an internal switch or fuse for different voltages. Or it might be like LED lights, which can accept either 120V or 277V without a problem.

Jay, is your panel all copper? Brief glance but it didn't appear so.

We do not need power conditioner. Solid metal socket board with power Purifier would be good enough.

Instead of playing around with plugs... Why didn't you have him hardwire the cord into the outlet. Bypass any possible issues with the receptacle. You already altered the cord...

Junk outlets=junk sound

Jay your room needs to be fed like I'd feed an event; Pin and sleeve fed floor mounted sub-panel. Several easily reconfigurable circuits. Done. No dryer outlets!

Where ya been bro? Or did uTube hide you from my feed?

Yes power wiring in the house do matter, but most critical part is power supply section in devices. They making them as per standards not appropriate for audio devices, as there is no other standard. what is impact, see this clip ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-M-xkQZ4qlDc.html . And you cant measure amperage of Audio amp as it is water heater. Audio have picks in range1 : 100 that standard electrician instrument cant measure.

LoL

15:57 Bring It!! = )