Is steel real? What makes a hardtail "supple"? Comparing steel, aluminum, and carbon frame materials 

Carbon is an exciting material for hardtail riders, and builders are learning how to maximize its ride characteristics all the time. It can be made overly stiff (like the Specialized Fuze Carbon), or super flexy (like the Trek supercaliber and the SC Chameleon). My full-suspension bikes utilize carbon leaf springs, and they design flex into these carbon leaf springs to provide a unique, tuned ride experience. I think we're going to be seeing a lot of exciting things with carbon in the future (and hopefully a decrease in price). Titanium, when done right, can feel just like steel, at a lighter weight. But you gotta pay to play. Ti is expensive and difficult to weld, and ti frames are NOT cheap. Titanium also doesn't rust, so you don't need to paint it. Steel (chromolly) can have a wide variety of ride characteristics depending on the frame design. If not treated, it will rust. It can be made into bikes that are quite light, but lately we've been seeing some really heavy steel frames, because companies know steel sells at the moment, regardless of how well it's built. A well-built steel frame is a thing of beauty. I wonder why steel full suspension bikes are popular? I'd rather have aluminum, as it's cheaper, stiffer, doesn't rust, and lighter. With a full suspension, you don't need the supple feel of steel, as the shock does that... Aluminum is typically the cheapest material for frames. It can't be bent or shaped quite as easily as steel or carbon, but with the right designer, you can still get a fantastic ride quality out of an aluminum bike. However, that's the excption rather than the rule. Most aluminum bikes end up being overly stiff. As a material, aluminum can't return back to its shape as easily as steel or ti. Think of a paperclip that you bend back and forth. You can only bend it so many times before it breaks. When bent like a paper clip, aluminum breaks sooner than steel and ti. For more education on the topic of frame materials, see this: www.bigshark.com/articles/which-frame-material-is-the-best-pg531.htm

Oooooo a middlechild battle, that should be interesting. As far as frame material, ride what you can afford and what feels good, in my opinion

This is gold! I've never learned that much about frames in such a short time.

What a great talk on frame materials! I love that you emphasized frame and tubing design, something I knew about but maybe not prioritizing enough. Also rider weight which I didn't think about. I've thought about this topic alot when I was researching my hardtail purchase. (ended up with a steel Stanton Slackline, which I love and will likely keep forever) One thing I would add is that even though frame design is probably the most important factor, there are inherent qualities to the materials that allow for more or less suppleness. For instance, comparing aluminum to steel, steel is much stronger and more resilient (able to flex and still maintain structural integrity), giving it more potential for springiness. This is why springs of all kinds are mostly made of steel, and not aluminum, because once aluminum flexes, the integrity of the metal is compromised, not so with steel. For this reason, aluminum frames have to have a certain degree of stiffness to ensure that it maintains structural integrity. Therefore if the frame is built well, I would venture to say that using steel would give you greater potential to build suppleness into the frame vs aluminum. I believe this is even truer for titanium, so you can have a very supple AND strong frame using titanium. Love the channel, keep up the great content and hope it takes off for you.

Hi Steve. I bought a nordest bardino 2 frame and built it up. You were right with the geometry of the cheaptrick. it didnt realy fit witch reach and stack. now i am happy,i found my bike,a steel nordest bardino 2, fantastic!!!

I ride a trek Stache 7, and i love it!!, and i am a pipe fitter as well, i use to weld light speed bicycles when i was laid off from a shut down

This makes a lot of sense and such an interesting topic. For the last 3 years I have been riding a Salsa Timberjack Aluminum and I thought it was completely normal that I was getting bounced around on it (for reference I'm a bigger ride +250lbs). But this week I have been demoing a Surly Karate Monkey and I never knew a hardtail could be so comfortable. In this case I'm digging Steel.

Well done... 👍🏻I ridden all bikes in all materials.... Carbon, Steel, Aluminum, Ti they all ride differently.. My favorite Aluminum HT is my Schwinn HG it fast and but completely compliant. I got Easton UltraLight Tube Yeti and Rocky Vertex Both ate fast but brutal. Ti Voodoo is a dream supple and stiff. Rocky 853 tubes bike is awesome... All retro HT rides...

Awesome video as always! 👌 I cheaped out last year bought an aggressive (or what everyone now calls, “hardcore hardtail”) aluminum hardtail, Marin San Quentin 2. I put 2.8 size on that bike with Pike fork then I took it to Santa Cruz Mountains. 😐 That frame was stiff AF! It felt like an over inflated plus tire and I was bouncing all over the place! Couple of months later, I bought a Guerilla Gravity Pedalhead and moved the components over using the same tire psi. Took it back to Santa Cruz Mountains and, wow! 😲 That frame is so supple. You can really feel how the rear stays are absorbing those stings especially when I do some of the drops (not to flat) and the landings were so smooth! I couldn’t believe it! I also have a 2010 Niner MCR with Crest wheelset. That bike is nice and supple but its more of an XC bike. Other bikes are the On-One 456 Summer Season & 45650b. Those bikes are also supple but not as supple as the Niner. Definitely not like the Pedalhead. I did not expect to hear that Chameleon is supple. I know some aluminum are supple. I read the Nukeproof Scout is more supple than some steel frames but the Chameleon? 🤔

Lots of knowledge here. Good video, very informative.

I love steel and some of the I've ridden were made from Tange Prestige/variants, True Temper Tt-lite, Columbus Cyber, Ritchey Super Logic and Reynolds 853. Having a bridgeless chainstay and monostay seatstays on one of them was quite nice.

Steve, you have some real good advise and wisdom here. I built up a china carbon 27.5 non-plus hardtail with high end parts. I absolutely hated the way it rode. So bone-jarring stiff. I even thought my SID was broken. So I took it apart, sold the frame, and put the parts on a new Soma Riff (steel hard tail). What a difference!

your spot on, i remember riding a mid 90's GT Zaskar -6061 Aluminum and man that was the stiffest, harshest ride, i went on to shy away from anything aluminum for a long time. Then i rode a more modern Stumpjumper w/ Specialized M frame and man it felt smooth and comfortable, two totally different designs blew my mind and made me rethink the material

So much sense here. Good work

Greetings from Germany for doing this High quality content!

Perfect how you basically say how each person will see a bike different. I had multiple people tell me, a while back, to not try carbon frames cause they are stiffer.. Also, 29's would be better for me. I can understand why, though, knowing my condition. However, carbon feels, in general, better on my joints. Also, 27.5 feels better. Oh, I was recommended longer frames. So, I like the opposite of what people suggest. I have a hardtail background since the late 80's. I'm used to a "smaller" feeling bike that I can throw around. Wouldn't mind trying some hardtail bikes and see how they feel. So, go out and try bikes before you buy! Glad I did!

Thanks for such an interesting topic. I rode a 26” steel mountain bike for years and still bring it out on occasion. I believed in the steel is real ethos, then I discovered 27.5+ hardtail bikes, hmmm. I’ve evolved from a size too small alloy Honzo (that I absolutely loved), then I rode a correct sized alloy Fuse. For me it’s perfect, and I experiment with air pressure in the tyres to suit the conditions. Big tyres and hardtails with good geometry are just about the best thing I’ve ever ridden in mountain biking.

Just got my Guerrilla Gravity Pedalhead. I am transitioning to mountain biking, its been a blast so far.

Nice. I’ve always had (in the past) steel hardtails and just thought it was a given that aluminum was harsher. Good to learn better.

Great overview and great explanations on the frame materials and build details. Personally I’ve spent many years owning and riding aluminum, steel and Ti hardtail’s. I haven’t been on some of the newer hydro-formed aluminum or high end carbon hardtail’s. I completely agree that “steel is real” is just a branding thing and I also think high end Reynolds,Tange and True Temper doesn’t mean that those steel frames are going to feel better, it’s truly dependent upon other factors like you mentioned. I’ve owned 2 Sir9 Reynolds 853 frames, both full rigid. The older had a steel fork and it was real supple feeling. The newer had the new Reynolds DBZ steel and a carbon fork. It was much stiffer. Last year I bought the new Esker Hayduke frame, not the new Sir9, it felt supple but not as much flex as the original Sir9. Anyway, obviously the Geo and build dynamics play a big part of the feel. I like my Ti frames but that’s another story.

I rode a Jamis Dragon slayer for 5 years and was a nice ride , it was a large and I weigh 215. Also had an old Jamis Dragon but to small for me , that was a nice soft ride , 853 Reynolds tubing.

I enjoy listening to someone who has actually has ridden a bunch of hardtails than the internet troll saying that they should make it in a different way. Great vid. Thanks. I have owned a hand full of hardtails starting in the early 90's. I still own my 1994 Kona hot. One other thing is steel is cheaper to fix as well. I broke my 2015 Ritchey P-29er last year. No help from the manufacture. I also am enjoying my first fat bike fully rigid this year as well.

All my frames are steel, but it’s attributed to the reputation and artistic properties of a reputable builder, in my case, Cameron Falconer, who builds frames to specifically ride to your style and body type. Both my Falconer frames are baby smooth and never a disappointment to ride. As you reference, its all about the builder and experience behind the art of frame building. Trade off is cost, but 100% worth every penny if you enjoy and love the ride quality.

I've owned quite a few production and custom steel hardtails. Both 26er and 29er. My custom Ted Wojcik steel 29er is easily the best bike I've ever ridden. I initially went steel then custom steel because I'm 6'2 and 240lbs. I was flexing frames and breaking chains like crazy. Especially aluminum frames. My Ted has a double butted Columbus Life main triangle with Columbus triple butted chainstays that Ted said were exceptionally rare to acquire so he recommended them. The bike was built for east coast woods riding so its aggressive with a relatively short wheelbase. Its both responsive and smooove. Just an absolutely beast on the trails! Had it since 2006 and its still perfect for ME.

I picked up a Breezer Squall when performance bike went out of business. AL frame, super stiff climbs like a billy goat. And for the riding I do (lots of flow) it really performs. Of course at 240 pounds the stiffness is a plus!

I preordered a RSD Middlechild aluminum so keeping my fingers crossed that it rides reasonably good! I almost ordered the steel one, then you replied to a comment I made in an earlier video about steel and said basically what you said in this video so you got me thinking.

Rode an Ally Dartmoor hornet and it was like riding a sledgehammer. On a CroMo Commencal now and it rides soooo much nicer, flex in the chainstays helps a lot. Both bikes made for the same kind of riding.

Can’t wait how the Switch9er 4130 I just ordered will feel coming from a Slackline 535 Gen2

You bring up some good points, right now I'm trying to decide which way to go in terms of frame materials and whether or not it should be full squish or hardtail. I keep leaning to hardtail custom steel. I rode a bontrager for years before going to full suspension something about the simplicity of a hardtail keeps drawing me back

Makes me even more excited for my Pipedream Moxie!!!

Thanks for this vid, very informative

I’m very happy with my Ritchey ultra seams very balanced and responsive I’m running 27.5 2.6

Very insightful video! Thanks

Nice video thanks, as a 250 pound guy looking for a new aggressive hard tail found it helpful. I’m tending towards a Chromag, but maybe should look at the Santa Cruz as much cheaper in New Zealand

You are so right you really need to test ride all bikes you are interested in if possible to really see how it feels to you and if it suits you and your riding style thank you for spelling this out for people to understand

I currently have the dartmoor hornet. That beast doesn't flex. I can feel all the rough bits on my legs. But i love it. Being heavy i feel more secure and confident about that frame.

Good video Steve! Thanks for the break down and knowledge 👍

CHUMBA - my Stella is so choice don't know how they do it but it has all the feelings one loves in a steel rig - perfect SS for me - the Sendero looks super dope...

Are you going to review the marin San Quentin 3 ? It would be cool if you did;-)

Stanton slackline, just the best bike I've ever ridden, even compared to my Ibis ripmo. You could use terms like supple etc but really what makes it good is that you can follow people down techy rocky stuff who are on full sussers and smash down it with them. You know your on a hardtail, but you never feel out of control the frame takes enough of the hit that your not jarred and bumped off the pedals and it's just fun and really satisfying.

Excellent video. Rode bmx in the 70s chromoly molybdenum was it. My current hardtail is a 2017 Marin nail trail 6 size XXL. It's aluminum and rides excellent. I notice more pedal bob on my urban rides especially at higher speeds , than I remember feeling in my previous hardtails. The rims have onetwenty9 etrto stickers and I think that's where I'm getting the flex . It's more noticeable with higher air pressure. But could just be the frame. Love the bike. Eventually if I ruin a rim, I'll upgrade and that might give an answer to what is flexing. Keep up the awesome channel. Ill get to South mountain and Sedona to ride eventually.

I ride a Merida big 9 6000 2019 carbon frame and it has the “flex stay” system that flex the rear of the frame...you can really feel it and is very supple

Hardtail words of wisdom, TY!

I hadn't a clue any of this stuff very informative thank you. I ride an aluminum HT xl frame one of Norco's 2018 models I'm not sure what I'm suppose to feel, to myself it feels nimble and quick compared to when i rode bikes in the mid 90s to 2002 those bikes felt heavy n hard pedaling at times. I am interested in the Norco torrent you rode a while back that is the kind of bike I'd like to ride. 👍

No questions. Just a comment. I rode my first black diamond trail yesterday. I came across a hiking couple with a baby, who said they were mountain bikers, and the guy told me, he couldn't believe I was riding this trail with a mountain bike, and doing it on a hardtail! 😁🤙... yea a few people had their mind blown seeing ride this trail on a hardtail. I had a blast on this trail, but way too many hikers... I just had to share that.✌😎

I totally agree. my alloy hardtail rode stiffer than so many carbon ones.

Very interesting observations and reasons involved with flex , suppleness etc. When you also throw in the equation of tyre size 2.25 - 3.00 this completely changes everything , then throw in Cush core which i found a game changer , does the world become round or flat lol

Really useful vid, thankyou

I ride an 11 year old aluminum hardtail (SE Filth Flyer) and I don't ever feel beat up after the ride (from the bike). I really don't have anything to compare it to other than my kids new aluminum bike(Co-Op DRT 1.1). But I am also a weirdo that rides a slightly undersized dirt jumper as an "all mountain" bike.

Great video! Keep up the awesome content. I just purchased my first steel hardtail last week- it's a Niner SIR 9 2018 model. I'm pretty stoked on it but I don't have much to compare it to because I'm pretty new to mtbing. Your channel was a big inspiration for my recent purchase. Thanks for everything you do! 🙏

I'm so glad I ride solo, I never have the ego concerns raised about steel v. aluminum v. carbon. I know I cannot tell the difference, I'm not that sophisticated a rider. I just buy what I like. Great review.

Fantastic video!

I’d certainly be curious to hear your take on the Salsa TimerJack. I picked up a frame for $450 last winter to build up a hard tail because I had components left over from cracked Trek Fuel Ex bikes. I had only been riding full suspension bikes, and wasn’t sure if I’d like a hard tail, but for $450 I figured I’d try it, and worst case it’d be a spring riding bike to hit the roads with before I could get my road bike out there. Well, last summer I spent more time on my hard tail than my full suspension, and while initially road fast, smooth single track I eventually took it on all my normal NorthEast trails... big rocks, roots, climbing up and descending down mountains and rock gardens. Literally fell in love with riding a hard tail. The nimble response of the bike on fast switchbacks or tight technical turns, along with feeling invincible on sketchy, hard climbs, were all things I didn’t completely expect. Yes, it does require more physical effort from you and you’ll feel more tired at the end of the day, but man...so much fun to ride. For what it’s worth, I initially built the bike up with a left over 2X Shimano drive train, SLX brakes, and a 120mm Fox 32 fork. It’s since been upgraded with a 1x12 SRAM drivetrain, XT brakes, and a 130 Fox Performance fork. The 130 fork gave it a bit more slacker head angle, around 66, and it’s a great combination of tight, responsive steering that is still super stable on chunky descents. And tire pressure is key. For my 230 lb loaded frame I run 21/24 on 29 x 2.5/4 tires, and it’s just right. Higher pressures and you get a bit beat up with the bounce on the rear, and I find lower pressures the tires aren’t stable enough in the high speed corners. I’ve been thinking about trying the new 2020 Specialized Fuse frame, $800.... but I’m honestly not sure if it would be an improvement over the TimberJack.

You 100% are the guy who should be building frames!

Please get your hands on a Timberjack! I'd love to hear your thoughts on that, and the Karate Monkey.

I really appreciate your review.. I sold my (alloy) full suspension because I love climbing and the shock below my saddle was so inefficient.. however I want a supple bike I can descend with without the rear shock.. I do not hit super technical trails on my downhills and then realized that I did not need that rear shock. I'm glad I made the choice I did but I'm still on the market for a hardtail that will suite my needs. Haven't decided what is best for me (carbon vs steel vs alloy)... I'm a petit female rider.. have a carbon road bike that I love climbing with.. just not sure yet what would be best for me on the dirt

A couple other UK bikes worth mentioning: - Ragley Bluepig - Cotic Soul

Great Vid. Nothing beats riding a bike to see if you like it. - Can you review the Specialized Fuse Comp or base 27.5. As you know, companies don't like to demo hardtails. Being a 250lb (fat old man), I want a hardtail to simplify my life on the trail and I don't want to worry about a rear shock. I'll use my legs and line choice to get down the hill.

I am guilty of the "steel is real", the last time l rode a aluminum hardtail was back in the early 2000s and yes that bike was very xc orientated and just rough as guts to ride. So after that experience l tried a steel ht and the was similar in geometry and instantly felt comfortable. 3 steel hardtails later and still happy. Oh l do have a carbon xc hardtail sitting in the shed, very stiff to ride only good for racing and l don't race anymore. Great video Steve, l must admit l never really put much thought into tube thickness between the different size bikes. And yes with frame geometry completely different to the late 90s and early 2000s l can understand how type A bike might be different to type B bike. Keep up the great work mate 👍

This was so informative! You can never have too many bikes, but at least one of them must be a hardtail. I love mine and find it so much fun on the less chunky trails I ride - it feels more responsive and challenges me to be a better rider. I hope to get to the point that I can differentiate between various hardtail offerings! I am going to be at the Sedona BF in couple of weeks - what hardtail would you recommend taking out as a demo? I am 6"1 and 190lbs without gear. Thanks mate - keep up the good content 👍

Everything I wanted to comment on you covered good job sir!

I understand how a tube flexes, but exactly does a triangle flex? I like the discussion keep the hardtail alive!

Great insights!

I'm riding a 2020 Norco torrent. I love it. I would like to see if you could test one out sometime and see what you think!

I was going to ask if your a welder I been recerching hardtail for about 5 weeks now and in the last week I got 80% of the questions I hand from your videos. The I'm on lockdown and can only search. I'm UA488 PF welder first thing I look at is the joint design and the weld

I love my Timberjack. I would love to compare it to the Chamaleon!

I know what you are saying because my old Schwinn Homegrown feels very supple for an aluminum frame. I had a steel frame made from True temper ox platinum and was very stiff

Steel is having a big renaissance at the moment with Reynolds and Columbus even now still developing profile and butting of tube's

Have you been able to do that Chameleon/Timberjack shootout? I'm very interested in both of these bikes for '23!

Love the video, very good advice! Any chance you'll review or demo a Niner Sir 9?

Very interesting video 👍

Great info, thanks! Did that RSD Middle Child Aluminum ride happen? I would LOVE to hear your ride report on that frame/bike!

I just bought a steel Big Honzo frame and have a full custom build on the way! I mostly went steel for the durability and I love the Honzo geometry. I haven't spent much time on hardtails in general but I think I'm gonna enjoy it! Not gonna lie though, my stomach dropped a bit when you said how stiff the steel Honzo is 😬 I'm not that concerned about it though. The build is sick and I think the geo is spot on for what I'm gonna be riding.

I have a Rocky Mountain ALTITUDE T.O that is incredibly supple made from Tange Ultimate Superlight tubing. I'll never give it up

This one video solidifies your position as the HardTail whisperer.

I had a gunnar single speed about 5-10 years ago, it was Reynolds 853, hand made piece of art and was the nicest and smoothest riding bike I ever owned. I now have a surly karate monkey, it rides like a brick compared to my sweet old Gunnar. Also, why is it so cool to have super slack headtube angles?

I just purchased a Cotic Soul 5th Gen frame (2018), and I really like it. Do you have recommendations, insight or opinions on this particular frame? Thanks

Real noticeable frame flex makes me friggin anxious though. I'm worried it'll break

Steel can be welded by anyone anywhere if it needs to be fixed. Would love to see you weld something together. Maybe a HP logo that could be purchased?

My Esker Hayduke has the right amount of flex built into it. I love it ❤ hardtailparty have you demoed one?

yeah i have a chromag chromemoly thats just sooo rough for general riding here in las Vegas for our gravel/rocky stuff.... i have ridden it with both 29r and 27.5+ but i got a replacement frame from marin thats aluminum and wonder if its worth building or not.

What’re some good steel frames you recommend off the top of your head? I see and know you’ve enjoyed your RSD MiddleChild.

which hardtail is in your opinion the best choice, from material and from the frame geo?

Thanks for the awesome videos. I love this channel. If you get time I'd be curious what you think of the Trek Stache? Thanks!

My main ride is an On One 456evo steel hardtail that's stiff as anything, supple it ain't. In fact I had to put a softer seat on it.. My old DHR aluminium xc hardtail is so flexy/wobbly a mate of mine won't even ride it off road. I can sit on it with my feet on the floor and visibly flex the frame by just pushing on the bars! I like steel 'cos it's harder to damage and if I do do something silly I can weld repair it. But to be honest I really couldn't care less otherwise.

Steve, I made a comment about the RSD Sergeant V3 being alloy, and how I wish it'd to be steel - maybe sparking this topic. I give a lot of credit to RSD's versatility - 275x3.8 and 29x3.0 on the same frame (Sarg v2 Ti) is awesome. My interest was not just "any" steel, but lightweight steel. I know lighter steel bikes ride better (if they aren't too flexy.) I'm right there with ya - I want to see more steel frames designed specifically with rider comfort in mind - especially bikes intended for bikepacking. Having ridden a lightweight (4.3lbs) alloy hardtail for that purpose, it just didn't do it - I missed steel (and suspension). It'd be interesting to see if 2020 Banshee Paradox (alloy) with it's "tuned for comfort" rear end improves any of that. Or if super-light alloy like the Specialized Chisel would ride any better. My guess is the Paradox probably rides like most alloy AM hardtails, and the Chisel like a roadbike (29x2.2 max tire eww). I think it's just better to say "lightweight steel is real."

I still like my californian 1995 MARIN BEAR VALLEY Special Edition double butted Chro-mo STEAL tange tubing MounTainBike, The SE edition is lighter than the standard non se edition. This MARIN MTB frame is comparable to MARIN's '90 top model the Pine and the Eldridge grade. Frame size 52 cm seat tube and 59 cm top tube is rather large. I agree in what you say about the triangle angle of a frame also determines suppleness. In old school MTB's the geometrie ; the triangles were larger, the top tube was more horizontal , the head tube and seat tube were longer than those same tube angles & lengths in modern compact sloping frames, allowing more natural flex in those old school larger tubing frame. Also the 750 gram lightweight MARIN ROCKSTAR FRONT FORK in size 1 - 1/8 " wich can also absorb little road vibrations allows me to ride this steal MTB as a rigid hard tail on single tracks without a heavier front suspension fork. I don't know much alloy frames wich can by ridden that comfortably with a rigid front fork anymore. Also my vintage 1985 chro-mo steal GIANT SPEEDER LITE race bike frame connected by lugs has a thin bent steal tube front FORK wich does an amazing job in absorbing road bumbs even with small 25mm race tires those thin tube steal front fork remains comfortable and is lasting 35 years so far without cracking. So if you would ask me what material is the best for building a comfortable durable rigid front fork? I would choose bent steal ones over oversized aluminum and probably over carbon too, if weight is no big deal.

Any opinions/experiences on the Production Privee Shan? It's been my dream bike frame for a while now and I'm curious what you think of a steel frame that's designed to actively utilize the materials flex-ability.

Ok, I am pretty much sold on the RSD MiddleChild (thanks to your videos and for RSD sponsoring you). It has everything I am really looking for. The only question is, Steel or Aluminum?? I ride the same terrain as you do here in Phoenix, but not as crazy as you. I am coming from an old school ('93) steel bike. Compliance is important for the rough terrain here. Thoughts?? You are an RSD guy and you ride the same environment.

I was looking at the NS bikes eccentric cromo I wonder how that frame is. I have a dirt jumper from NS bikes and it's steel and feels great but it's hard to say if their 29'' hardtail mtb would be good too

Well, whats your favorite steel frame that you have tested?

Have you ridden the Nukeproof Scout? Or heard anything about how its made? I have one and love it but can't really compare it to anything. Thanks for the info!

Thanks for the clarification! As a mechanical engineer, where and how you add or remove material really makes all the difference. I don't design bike frames but have performed similar tricks on other projects. I am riding a Trek ProCaliber aluminium frame, with a pivot between the top tube and seat tube to give it some extra compliance. Budget's a bit too tight for a full squish and in the Netherlands there's really no places where a full squish is necessary, so I was looking for a comfortable hardtail, for a tall and heavy rider. Trek's trick works generally well and I love my bike... but for very specific bump sizes it bucks me off the saddle instead of absorbing it, somehow very efficiently preloading the spring. So I also need to be critical of my tyre pressure. I am in the process of converting to tubeless hoping it will give that extra bit of compliance in the tyres so the frame only needs to absorb relatively small fractions of any bump.

This was a great episode! Well done. I’m about 215lbs suited up so the Honzo worked for me, but once I got the Middle Child I had the best of both worlds. Stiffness in the BB area and refined compliance everywhere else. Also a tad lighter. Fantastic work.

I want to see a comparison of a titanium timberjack to the aluminum one

Kinda funny about the whole "steel is real" thing because I've always been a bit biased against steel. I grew up poor so that meant the bikes I rode were typically old 2nd hand low quality steel rust buckets. The first decent quality bike I ever had was aluminum and I guess the impression always stuck. Ever since I've pretty much shunned steel but my perceptions are changing.

That makes me think if it really makes sense to buy a ragley steel frame over the aluminum versions... Also i wonder if steel frames live longer before they need to be replaced because of hard riding. Love that video as it shows that steel is real doesn't always make sense.

I’m just curious, you said the Kona honzo st is pretty stiff, I’m looking at the Explosif and is that frame similar in stiffness? Thanks

Was wondering if you were into vintage steel mountain bikes especially those greats from the 90s like Kona Explosif, Rocky Mountain Blizzard, Voodoo Bizango, Cotic Soul, Orange Clockwork etc. I collect vintage steel from that era and loved them

Something you didn't mention is that frame builders usually build frames considering the average-weight rider. I weigh 64kg and I guess that most bikes are built to tolerate riders of up to 120kg. Can you make a video on the subject and the possible solutions to the problem?