Installed 212/218 cam with 110 LSA along with springs, new lifters and trays and 7.4 Inch push rods.. Built 4l60e, Circle D 3600 stall with 4.10 posi in single cab short bed Sierra.. Man did it come alive..
punched my 4.8 to a 5.7 (ls1 rod piston combo) , got a good valve job with some slight bowl work along with new btr lifters and a btr torque cam coupled to 4.10 gears and my Tahoe tows like a dream probably better than a 6liter
I think a setup like this with a high rear gear and a new 10spd transmission would be a weapon on the street. I'd love to do a setup like that in my rcsb.
A customer had an 85 BMW with a 4.8, and T56. He had an LS6 cam in it. Talk about no low end, but it would rev to the moon. Clearly a better cam and gears would go a long way.
Amazing what a converter and gears do even with a mild cam. Small 3.8 V6 in a 3800# car, 16.2 @ 86 with a 2.2 60ft with stock converter and 3.23 gears. 15.4 @ 87 with a 1.9 60ft with a 3000rpm converter and 3.73 gears. Small 206/216 cam with ported heads and intakes.
Thanks for the info man I'm putting a junkyard 4.Great from a 99 z71 in my 72 four door Nova I have a 4000 convertor, 350 transmission and plan to run 410 gears. I intend it to be a street car/bracket race car, you sold me on the BTR stage 2 turbo cam. Now if the mail man would just hurry up with my parts!
My question will come after I profess the love I have for my LR4. As someone who has been wanting to build up his Lr4 for last 20 odd years and finally FINALLY starting to look like a possibility. I wonder what the 4.8s numbers would look like stuck into a truck and dyno'd. My engine has earned a fair bit of loyalty from me. I've had my 2002 Silverado it's entire life, I had it built to order while stationed in Japan and was getting ready to go back stateside. I have not been kind to it, and has more or less been raced everyday for 20 years and has NEVER failed in its duty. In honesty if someone asked me if I mean it's never failed to start in 2 decades it has 3 times BUT it was I who failed it by running batteries long past when they should have been changed. So remove me from the equation and yes it's been an engine that hits 7k rpms every day with flawless functionality. And if that's not impressive than maybe this bit is, I'm a disabled veteran some of that is brain injuries so a few of those 20 years have seen 1 maybe 2 oil changes because my memory decided to go on vacation yet it's none the worse for it. I love that damn engine so much if the truck ever got wrecked the engine would be pulled and put into something else. End game I plan on adding one of the boost district supercharger kits after work is done to the engine and other areas. My truck has an NV3500 which will get some type of 6 speed put into its place. So a converter is useless to me, and am I correct in my assumption that the gearing that would be best for me would also be different?
Honestly not a ton. Your gonna have a more direct power output with a true manual rather than a convertor being in the mix. Still some 4.10 gears will do you good. Comes down to suspension setup and tire compound how you put the power down. But that 4.10 would still treat you Nice.
Thank you Richard for the update! I wonder could you do a test with these small displacement engine to utilize the boost specifically addressing the issue of LOW speed torque? If we think about all these gear changes and converters, they also add up cost after all.
Even with boost, gears can make a huge difference. My Camaro has 2.73:1 gears from the factory and make the car feel absolutely sluggish until the little 4.8L gets into boost. Not to mention, the wheelspeed with those gears is too fast for some dynos so it had to be dyno'd in second gear (not 1:1).
You can not get accurate data in second, the ratio needs to be 1:1 to get honest numbers. Look at it this way, if you have a stick why dont you start out in 5th or 6th (depending on trans)? Because you need the mechanical advantage the lower gear ratio provides, does shifting gears change the Horse Power of the engine? No it doesn't. If you only had one gear the vehicle would have a top speed if 15-20 MPH, or if it had a higher gear ratio, it may not even propell itself without burning out the clutch. What I'm saying is the Dyno is measuring the power of the mechanical advantage of the transmission. The car owner should get his money back for the Dyno session because the Shop owner should've known the Data is incorrect
The torque peak of the gen 3/4 sbc has been a pet peeve of mine since they came out....especially for a truck application. The 4.8 is the worst offender of the platform. Even the L92 is disappointing in a truck application. The platform is benefitted greatly from a 4000-5000 stall converter and gears since 1998 even with a stock cam. Honestly, I would really like to see the sky ram refined!
I have a Sonoma with the 4.great BTR stage 4 truck cam, headers and high rise intake. It has t56 mag trans and 4.10 gears, I want more gear. It revs out like a civic, nothing down low and everything up top shifting at 7200.
Can you do a test on the sloppy stage 1.5 and compare it to the others? The sloppy stage 1 and 1.5 looks like very appealing daily driver cams. I know the Elgin cams are overused, but I can't find any practical data online on the 1.5.
Thx u thx u for all the awsome videos really.......can u come up with a video for a 2012 chevy impala ltz 3.6 lfx motor plz plz because if u look up this engine on specs it asks u if u have a turbo or non turbo so would love to have u take apart one n do what u do best make power! If I got to buy n ship u one let it be known but I just can't believe chevy would leave it at 305 hp naturally aspirated u know than it asks which model I have turbo or non plz help
I’d be curious as to how the 4.8 responds to the Truck Norris; possibly compared to the BTR Torque and Stage 1 truck cam. I know they tend to add power fairy low RPM in the 5.3, so I wonder which of them would make the most optimal curve for a “heavy truck”… maximizing HP while retaining, or possibly gaining, torque under the curve.
I also would like to see how the Torque cam responds in the 4.8. It's the cam I've been leaning to, but can't find much on them. I've seen the video were Richard suggested the torque cam for the 4.8, but would like to see it in action.
I have a 2002 GMC with the 4.8 and I want a BTR cam. I'm going to upgrade converter and gears first but don't know what ones to go with. I have a stock 4l60 and 3.42 gears. Thinking either 3.73 or 4.10 gears. I drive mostly on higher speed back roads and highway so I want to sacrifice the drivability. Also what TC should I get? there are so many options? 2600, 2800, 3000...?
@@richardholdener1727 looking at BTR's Truck Norris cam. was considering an NSR cam but with the age of the engine, I think replacing the springs would be a good idea. Right now, highway cruising at 70MPH is around 1900-2000 RPM.
What size stall converter and gears would I need if I have a Camshaft Kit, Pro LS Vortec Truck Swap, Hydraulic Roller Tappet, Advertised Duration 278/287, Lift .523/.524 this is for a 2007 Silverado classic 4.8
The problem with stall converter and gears is that if you daily Drive the vehicle it can really be a hindrance for your daily routine which most people spend a lot more time doing than they do drag racing. I mean if you do a 2400 stall and 3.73s then it makes a usable daily still but if you do a 3600 stall with 4.30s then you can barely even ride the highway anymore and it's going to be harder to keep your transmission cool and unless you're in lockup you're cruising 3,600 RPMs everywhere so your mileage is trash as well. No V8 engine should ever be cruising over 3,000 RPMs for long time periods it's just abusive and pointless. I would rather have a stock lq4 that's never been opened with the stock stall and a stock trans behind it than a 4.8 with all the bells and whistles. Now if ya add boost that can change the 4.8 into being real desirable and not needing obscene gearing to be quick.
@@snooterdavid1969 for a 4.8 daily I would recommend a truck Norris cam and a 2400 stall with longtube headers. Big gains everywhere especially when paired with longtubes. You won't need to change your gearing. If you really wanna do gears I would say it depends on tire height and intended purpose. If your gonna use it on the highway a lot then I would say stick with 4.11 or 3.73.
right now i have a 5.3 with TSP stage 3 cam with long tube, 243 heads, re-geared to 4:56 with 35” tires Do you think doing the 2400 stall would bode well for my application?
I replaced my transmission just before last winter thinking I had a 5.3L but realized after the fact that it’s a 4.8L. I picked up a rebuilt trans from a local transmission shop with a new converter, installed both and returned my original 4L60E to the shop I purchased the replacement. Is there any issue running a trans and converter intended for a 5.3 in a 4.8L? I picked up a trailer recently that is too much for my truck. I don’t have enough torque and struggled to tow up hills. Trans dropped to second and hit 5k rpm, tach tops out at 6k and crested the hill at about 60mph. Freeways where I live have 80mph limits and I can get ticketed for going under 70mph because I’m impeding traffic. The trailer is about 3k pounds and was empty. I purchased the trailer to move out of state and would like to continue to use it once I’ve moved. Engine is bone stock under 150k miles. Is it worth putting a cam in? Boosting? Gearing? Or should I be looking for a better suited truck for towing a 7’X16’ enclosed trailer?
I have stock 4.8 with a 70/65 upgraded 4l60 with stock converter and converter lock at high temps I have a stutter. I have 410s off a Cheyenne I need to put in but I’m worried I may need another converter. No cam it scoots as is haven’t lost to any na app.
@@gearjonny369 I agree. I put a summit stage two in my 4.8 Silverado and a jegs converter that is rated 2800 to 3000 stall and I don't think it's big enough but it does pull my boat really well
All Hot-Rods need a High-Stall-Lock-Up-Converter, and somebody who can re-tune the Computer . A 7-Litre Engine takes up the exact same amount of space as a 4.8-Litre Engine, and weighs almost exactly the same, and has AT LEAST 50% more Low-RPM-Torque than a 4.8-Litre. The Biggest Engine that You can cram under your Hood should be the first High-Performance "part" that You should buy. . . .
@@ryangulley2051 that's very impressive. But ok so stock short block eh? So everything else is aftermarket? I'm guessing heads, turbos, intercoolers etc. How much does he really have in his build? $10 - 20k? That $1500 LY6 is still cheapest bang for buck for your average guy. I'll bet you could do a LY6 swap and tune for about same $$$ as a a good converter and gears.
@@indyrock8148 Its hard to image why anyone would build a race-only 4.8-Litre. If You put all of the exact same parts and machine-work in to a ~50% larger displacement Engine, You will still get ~50% more power than the smaller Engine, and it will be under less stress, so it will be far less likely to fail. A carefully chosen Converter and Gear can work miracles, even for a completely stock 240,000-mile 4.3 V-6. My S-10 weighs ~4000 pounds normally loaded with Tools and other junk, it pulls-off a very consistent 2.1-second 60-foot time, this is only because of a generic ~3000-rpm Lock-Up-Converter, and re-tuned Factory "Torque-Management" providing Traction-Control, and this is on ordinary "Summer" style Continental Street-Radials . And it cruises at ~2,100 rpm at ~70-mph with the Factory 3.42-Gear. I personally, see no point in building a race-only, trailered car. I want kick-ass AC, and a decent Stereo that You can actually enjoy. The Engine that I'm building for my daily-driver S-10 is a Twin-Turbo, 7-Litre, Gen-V, with a custom made "zero-runner-length" Intake-Plenum with twin Electronic-Throttle-Bodies, custom 1200-psi Straight-Ethanol Individual-Port-Fogger-System, to supplement the Direct-Injection-System. There will be zero Factory-Parts, including the Block and Heads. It will idle like a stock Engine, and get excellent gas-mileage, ( well, excellent for E-85 anyway ). It will also make over ~1200-pounds/feet of Torque at ~3000-rpm, and over ~1500-horsepower at ~7000-rpm. The Torque-Curve is "Pool-Table-flat" from 3000 to 7000 rpm. Mega-Squirt Traction-Control will completely eliminate all wheel-spin. To go Drag-Racing will only require putting on Radial-Slicks, and adding 2 to 4 Gallons of Denatured-Alcohol (Ethanol) from Home-Depot . Only around ~$60,000.oo Dollars, and ~3-years of your life. . . .
I’d like to see the same motor same cam durations but on a 108-110 lsa and see what the torque figures did, I’m a big fan of big converters and steep gears. Also what’s a limit on 4.8/5.3 factory rev limits, i turns stock ls1 to 6900 and on limiter everytime I drive it as a SBE with a good pump and cam and top end setup
@richardholdener1727 - currently have a 4.8 sloppy stage 2 pac 1218 springs with trailblazer intake behind a 4l80 rear end gear is 5.38 spinning 37" tires what stall would you run? Thank you Richard! Great content as always
a very big cam hurts low speed (and mid range) torque, especially on a 4.8L. Smaller cams on the smaller motors make a better combo, unless you want a high-rpm, race motor
4.8 with truck Norris cam what gears? I’m heading towards 4.10 / 4.30 I currently have 2500 stall whats good stall to run with either those? Daily driver
I got stock 4.8 and I want to put tsp stage 2 low lift cam but got stock truck intake but got long tube headers and Yukon 3.73 gears what kind of converter I need someone told to run vjcx 2200-2500 high stall converter and got 4l60E trans
Good day Richard, any chance to chat with you over email or any other way? Starting project (454 in c10) . Around place I live nobody does what I want , so I have bunch of questions.
Im running a TSP 216/220 111 lsa low lift cam in my 4.8 in a 88 s10 700r4 with a 3200 converter. Many people go too big with the cam on the 4.8. you need displacement or boost for those big stage 4 cam shafts. everyone thinks the larger the cam, the more it will "lope" but this is simply not true. ive seen guys put a big donkey dick cam shaft in them and make them way slower.
what is "best"? That's such an open ended question. Best for a offroad buggy, best for mom's trailblazer, best for my gutted nosfed gbody, or best for a DD truck that pulls a camper?
I have a VERY similar cam to that Crane 224/232. I see that it peaked at 6800 in the 4.8L, I'm putting that cam in a 6L. Would it be safe to say that it will peak around 6200 in the 6L?
