The 3:50 mark saved my sanity. I could not get this thing to work properly and it kept crashing into the bed. Took the thing apart and sure enough the screws were almost out of the machine. Thanks for the tip. Most useful insight I have found.
Nice work .. Nice to see a 'warts & all' review from a 'purchaser' without the bias of a freebie. I've been studying these things for a while prior to taking the plunge. Thank you ... 🇬🇧
Thanks! Just a heads up I’ve also posted a “short” update. The print head has been slightly problematic. I’ve also been trying to work out some Z-banding issues occasionally, though they may be related to my filament profile settings.
@@IdealGrain Great thanks for the info. I did watch your 'short'... it's funny how the freebie reviews are consistently super 'glowing' and this is a helpful change ... 🇬🇧
Thanks for a good, down to earth, well paced review and for not doing any sort of "...this is what all six sides of the box it comes in, looks like" crap.
Micro city has this now for479. But I saw a cr10 on sale there for 379 and was ready to run out and get it. Saw there was a review and 2 people said that the ABL did not work. So I looked at teaching tech for a review and he confirmed the abl was not good and talked to creality and they said the bed must have shifted during shipping and to level it mechanically . He told them isn't that what ABL is for to adjust for that. Now here is the kicker it has no bed leveling screws. He had to take the bed off and put shims in. Then I thought about the cr10 smart pro and watched your video and I see it has manual screws if you want to go old school. Nice video learned alittle bit more. PS creality is notorious for letting the consumer do their research for them finding the bugs and such. I'm also getting a lot of info just reading all the comments here. Good job.
Nice and realistic review! After 1+ month with this machine, and starting as a 3D noob, I agree with your conclusions. I think it is also realistic to mention that no 3D printer will give perfect prints out of the box. I think all makers are entitled to a fair share of trial and error. The biggest benefit on this printer is size. I managed to print a star wars helmet in one go. But... it took me some experimenting before arriving there. PLA and PETG go very well on this one. So far, my ASA prints did not come off without warping. I think this underlines your point on ambient temperature and the challenge of getting this huge machine enclosed properly. All in all, I have no regrets of spending some more money on the purchase. So far, no mechanical issues. I found that sometimes the camera fails to transmit to the app. This is 'solved' by a unplug-replug of the camera, but should not be. And: pitty that the camerasoftware does not support recording.
I’ve been recommended the Prusa Mini+ and something from b…the Ender 3 series. When looking at the Ender 3s, I saw that there was a flash sale, selling this CR-10 Pro for %50 off ($399)! Now I am really tempted for such an amazing deal. Would you recommend the CR10 Pro over other printers the same price, like the Prusa Mini+? Any other recommendations? Thanks!
It’s not a deal, it’s an old model and they’re trying to fire sale them. It’s an okay printer, but I think a Prusa Mini or Bambu X1 Carbon are the right choices at this point, depending on which end of the budget spectrum you want to go.
Nice overview of this amazing printer. A few weeks back I purchased the Creality CR-10 Smart 3d Printer ($599.00) and while they are similar with the one you reviewed they are also very different. The screen is exactly the same and the footprint size is the same. There are documented issues with the auto level system, which caused me no end to issues so I returned it. Some major advantages with the Pro model are: You can adjust the leveling manually, which is a MAJOR benefit, the camera is super and is easy to use even if it has a wonky tripod (get a better commercial tri-pod), the added LED light is extremely nice, and all all the other upgrades delivering and dispensing the filament would easily cost as much as the difference is for the similar model, but this model includes them oout of the box. The steel nozzle and direct drive mechanism also means that I can use TPU and even carbon fiber filaments, which would cost me more with the standard CR-10 Smart model. I would HIGHLY recommend this model, although it is a little challenging to find it online.
Same conclusion I came to! I almost bought the CR-6SE or CR-10 Smart, as I thought the load cell leveling system was really innovative. After seeing others had a lot of trouble with it, and realizing the “Smart Pro” included a direct drive extruder and all metal hot end, it was the only reasonable choice for me. I could live without the camera and “creality box” - I’d rather run octoprint, but it works. Thanks for watching!
I just bought the CR10 Smart Pro 3D Printer and the filament feeder rotates backwards right out of the box. It breaks the filament off inside the feeder and does not extrude any melted filament. I can rotate the feeder by hand in the opposite direction and the melted filament extrudes as it should. Good luck getting service from Creality.
Thanks for the video, what are your thoughts after a year on the printer with regards print quality, reliability, any hot end issues and how easy are they to fix?
I think for the original purchase price or $750, I’d rather steer that money toward a Bambu X1 or maybe a prusa Mk IV. The biggest drawback is that you basically cannot use the full build plate without an enclosure or you’ll have warping problems. An enclosure for a printer this size would be insane.
Nice review as I am currently jostling between the E3 S1 Pro and this one. Instead of glue stick... have you tried using hairspray, or does that not work so well on the PEI sheet vs the spring steel ones?
Having a heavy modded cr10s at home. Loving this workhorse. But the direct drive and silence are Killer features. Waiting to arrive this amazing machine the next days ❤️👌
It’s not perfect! Check my updates in a few shorts I posted following this. It’s been a decent printer but it’s required more maintenance and tweaking than I would like for a printer at this price point.
Bro I had same issue bed wobble I the middle and extrusions are not parallel but I couldn't fix extrusions. Tightened a bit at font and rear ... and also top led light of my printer is not working
I have a small-ish question, currently running a Cr10 S Pro V1 with a bunch of mods (Anti-backlash nuts, Wham Bam PEX plate, upgraded 750W Keenovo Heating pad, induction level sensor, Custom Firmware) Most importantly, the Micro-Swiss All metal hot-end, because I hated the fact that I needed non-standard threads on the Nozzles. I am considering this printer, since it has most of the upgrades that I have done to my current printer OUT OF THE BOX.. Amazing! and at a fraction of the cost Vs upgrading a printer from scratch. Anyways, are the nozzles regular off the shelf MK8 nozzles with normal thread length? Or are they specific to this printer/ Creality nozzles?
Good question! I haven’t gone through enough nozzles to use more than the creality ones that I have that I believe are hardened steel. My searching around points them to being mk8 compatible. For how cheap some can be, it’s worth a go trying some cheapos.
Nice machine. It's just about what I'm looking for, built-in touch screen, 300C, big PEI bed size. But I don't need the cloud! Not everyone needs it! Isn't there any option to buy it WITHOUT the cloud?
The cr-10 smart pro actually has the sprite pro hotend which is all metal, and maxes out at 300c. At the end of the video you compare the cr-10 smart pro to the v3 s1 and say they are basically the same but the s1 is just the regular sprite hotend which isn't all metal and i believe it maxes out at 260c. I think you also didn't mention the dual lead screws in both the cr-10 smart pro and s1
Dual lead screws are a given on anything above entry level, and I specifically pointed out the belt connecting the dual lead screws. If the hot ends are different that further goes to show that creality’s product offerings even more of a mess and they don’t advertise the difference well, if at all.
Is this a good printer for someone starting out? I am just trying to avoid upgrading down the road to a bigger one. I know there is an Ender S1 Pro not sure if that is a better option?
I think 7 months in, if you don’t need the bed size, the Prusa Mini might be the best overall experience for a beginner right now. Buying any Chinese printer, there’s a bit of an expectation that official support will be bad/limited, and it will require more tweaking than expensive mainstream printers. I print a number of larger items that take advantage of 1/2-2/3 of the bed, but given the size of this printer- without an enclosure you’ll have a difficult time with prints warping if they that use the whole build plate.
Initially it was minor. Tightening up the belts a hair more and adjusting the eccentric nuts on your V wheels so they *just barely* roll on the extrusion without slipping solved it. I do get some occasionally that seem to be in-line with a feature or two in a given print but it’s only 1-2 layers and I’ve experienced this on basically FDM every printer I’ve ever used. To be clear the Z banding in my experience was from slip in the Y axis/bed. Those are the V wheels I would concentrate on getting just right. Thank you!
@@IdealGrain Thanks so much for your indept answer, I'll have something to play with this weekend and try to get it sorted. You've got a new subscriber!
I bought a Creality CR-10 back in like 2016 or so. I've been wanting to do some upgrades to it and when I priced what all I wanted to do to it and how cheap these have got since you put this video out decided to get a CR-10 Smart Pro at Microcenter. I have to admit I got a Bambu Labs A1 as well got really good deals on both as I only paid $399 for the CR-10 Smart Pro. I couldn't just become one of these Bambu fan boys and not throw a little support to the Creality side of the business.
@@IdealGrain I am impressed with the Bambu and will probably be getting a X1 or possibly one of their new large format printers whenever they finally put one out. I thought when the A1 came out I heard there was a new printer coming from them and was surprised after the A1 mini they release the A1 and not a larger format printer.
I'm about to go 50/50 on a printer with a friend, so for $400 each, would you say this is a good first printer for hobby use, such a cosplay/LARP pieces, props and the like? :)
Only if you have the space and means to build an enclosure around it, and go in knowing this thing will need regular tweaking and maintenance. Unfortunately without an enclosure large prints warp and have adhesion issues. Not much for alternatives at this price point though.
Hey :) I've just purchased the CR-10 Smart Pro for some days ago and I'm struggling with the auto bed leveling. Seems like not matters what I do when bed leveling manually or automatically, I still get some spots where is just right or too far from the bed. Is there any recommendation you'd like to share with me? I'd appraciate your time helping me out with this. Thanks!
Apologies it took a while to reply. Make sure the magnetic bed is on securely and that there are no contaminates underneath that could raise it in spots. Spend some time to get manual leveling dead on. ABL is great for adapting to small differences over time but you need to start with a nice level bed. This is true for any printer. It’s rarely going to be 100% perfect edge to edge on the bed. I would lean toward adjusting your offset until it’s just a little higher up to find a middle ground between just right in a couple spots and too high.
I printed a bed level test print, and the areas that were too low, I would put a strip of aluminum foil. The one layer thick, in the areas that appeared low.
I got mine a few days ago and the bed will not stay level. No matter how many times I re-level. I can adjust one corner move to another corner not make any adjustments and go back to the first corner and it's off by 2mm!!!
It’s a dance. When you adjust one corner, the rest get thrown out. Manually level it little by little and corner by corner using the built in assist with a piece of paper until it averages out nicely. Make sure the adjustment screws are tightened enough that the springs are actually working. This is not unique to this printer. Make sure it’s on a flat and level surface too.
Hello, I have a CR 10s Pro V1 and have been looking at this Smart Pro. BUT. I am really old and print model trains from the 50s. I can not afford another $700 printer every few years. I did like all the add on's here. But can't i upgrade my 10s Pro??? I have the belt on the top of the Z axis and OctoPrint on a Pi, with a PEI bed and inductive bed sensor and I added my own Z axis Struts to the Front Sheet metal 20 times stiffer. at the top of Z. Oh and a Micro Swiss Hot End with Harden Steel Nozzle. No bad for an old man huh? But I really want a few more of those goodies. Adjustable axis., Direct Drive, BL Touch, Tool Tray and That rear Bed heater Cable is molded for better reliability I want that too real bad. What do you think can i soup up my Hot Rod 10s Pro for a few hundred dollars? Got any ideas. Oh I want all those red knobs on the Smart Pro those are way cool. Thanks, Dennis in Virginia at Frankentrain Laboratories, where Next Gen S (1/64 scale) is coming from.
Having run a CR-10S Pro V1 for 2 years, the microswiss hot end is a great upgrade, good choice - there are compatible direct drive extruders but I’m not sure about compatibility with the microswiss. The upgrades are “nice to have” but as long as you don’t mind swapping your Bowden tubes every few weeks or months, I would suggest sticking with what you have until it doesn’t work for you. Or find other enthusiasts you can sell train parts to, to fund an eventual replacement. If I had a pro v1 or v2 on hand today, I would have kept them and not bought the Smart Pro. Keep on keeping on! 3D printing is fun for anyone of any age and for myriad applications!
Thanks! I will probably post a “short” soon with some minor updates. No mods for me. I bought this printer because it was the only one from creality that didn’t need mods in my opinion. I will say, the touchscreen has become a pain point. It works fine enough, but it’s not as responsive as I would like, and at times when manually setting temperatures, I need to set the hot end temperature 2-3 times before it actually starts heating. Weird bug.
A set up my CR10 Smart Pro yesterday and everything has been going well but I have connected the included camera to the USB port on the printer and when I go into the cloud app the camera doesn’t seem to connect. Do you have any solutions for this
Thank you my friend for a lovely video. My first printer was the EasythreeD 3D Printer X7 Plus - Professional - Print Size 40cmx40cmx45cm. What a ripoff. I send it back and was refunded after it pop a cap in the power supply. I am new in 3d printing and did not find my feet yet. I bought this Creality CR - 10 pro, still in the box. I had to assemble it today. To be honest, I am nerves. It cost allot and I don't think I would handle another disappointment again.
@@simbian5900 Yes my friend. All goes well. I manage to design a gearbox for an electric motor, to operate my telescope. It worked well. All the gears and the wheels that move the parts, I could design and print myself. Are you well my friend?
@@simbian5900 It went well, thank you my friend. I manage to print gears successful. I design my gearbox that control my huge telescope at home. I printed all the wheels that control my scope. What a ride. I have learn so much in the last few years. How are you doing my friend?
Creality just tries to recycle their lousy "Creality Box". Just give us a port for a Raspberry Pie instead. But glue stick on a PEI Bed??? Clean it with water and dish soap, or maybe some acetone, and adjust your Z gap.
Really cool overview for this 3D P. Yes, I have use this it for about 1 Mount now. It could print 3Dfilament model, but that's also all. I mean, for 850£ ( trans#currency form Norwegian), it's not worth the money! Why is that, yes, just because you are in expectations of a better finished manufactured and tested 3D printer, than this model that still seems to retain the prototype area. Yes, probably true and proven, this is a continuation of the CR-10 smart model, the model that only had automatic bed living! Disaster. Agree, Creality Ender 3 Ver 2, is a cracking good choice that is a budget winner, for what it's worth! So what's the point of picking on this CR-10 Smart Pro model? The display, annoyingly slow in perception where one has pressed the touch screened selection. Bravo, this is in 3 out of 10 cases, but the annoyance, it's there. Probe error during auto self-adjustment of bed! Error 203 appears on the display. A mistake that comes and goes by itself, but an irritating moment when this occurs. Video camera, with such a low resolution that this must be a joke. With such poor properties for the camera, there should be absolutely no complaint about this powerful LED light illumination, presumably for a better experience of using the camera (but not the attached one!) BUT, why in the world push in such an altar powerful LED light, when the camera properties are ready for the bin, while the video camera light is so powerful without dim possibilities! Incredibly bad combination. I expect firmware updates soon when a non-budget winner can work in the light of better functionalities! Thank you for your brief demonstration, I will follow you and what you will eventually find out from this CR-10 model. Stay tune!
The value for price comes in that even the previous CR-10S Pro v1 and v2 would cost more factoring in an upgrade with an all metal hot end, and direct drive extruder than this one costs out of the box. They also don’t have the Z axis sync belt, or the pei spring steel build plate. These are all featured that make daily life with this printer a better experience. I have not experienced errors with auto bed leveling. I do not factor the “bells and whistles” like the light, camera, and screen into my decision. The functional hardware is where the value is. I agree, the touchscreen has become frustrating since I filmed this video but it is not a deal-breaker for me. If we really want to talk about why this is still a good value in spite of its flaws, try comparing it to a Lulzbot Taz, Ultimaker, or Makerbot. Even Prusa which requires many hours of assembly.
