The interests and hobbies of Jeff from Ideal Grain. Automotive detailing and maintenance, making/fabrication, product reviews and more. Let’s make some cool stuff, fix things, and share information. Cheers!
Bro I had same issue bed wobble I the middle and extrusions are not parallel but I couldn't fix extrusions. Tightened a bit at font and rear ... and also top led light of my printer is not working
After market nozzles man dude at Microcenter sold me the wrong pack it was a 1/8 inch off cause a cavity that filled up.and.exploded with polysmooth filament 😢
hey boss... the K1 hotend fits this.... works way better, way better design than the sprite default. You just have to adjust the parts cooling design or try a new one for the K1 hotend. the Trianglelab CHCB hotend in the same shape as the K1 mount also fits. CHEERS
I bought a Creality CR-10 back in like 2016 or so. I've been wanting to do some upgrades to it and when I priced what all I wanted to do to it and how cheap these have got since you put this video out decided to get a CR-10 Smart Pro at Microcenter. I have to admit I got a Bambu Labs A1 as well got really good deals on both as I only paid $399 for the CR-10 Smart Pro. I couldn't just become one of these Bambu fan boys and not throw a little support to the Creality side of the business.
@@IdealGrain I am impressed with the Bambu and will probably be getting a X1 or possibly one of their new large format printers whenever they finally put one out. I thought when the A1 came out I heard there was a new printer coming from them and was surprised after the A1 mini they release the A1 and not a larger format printer.
I really love the way you display that Sets with the street and the car, so I want to build a street like yours. I can order the plates in "Light Gray" or "Light Bluish Gray" and dont know where the different is and what kind of color i need. I hope you can help me!
Thanks for a good, down to earth, well paced review and for not doing any sort of "...this is what all six sides of the box it comes in, looks like" crap.
I just bought the CR10 Smart Pro 3D Printer and the filament feeder rotates backwards right out of the box. It breaks the filament off inside the feeder and does not extrude any melted filament. I can rotate the feeder by hand in the opposite direction and the melted filament extrudes as it should. Good luck getting service from Creality.
I destroyed two hotends in a shirt while with mine. First the two screws holding the heater block snapped off as I changed the nozzle. Now the nozzle thread was destroyed when I changed, because it was too soft, since I heated it some to melt the plastic so it'd be possible to remove. Thinking of ditching the sprite extruder entirely and replacing it and hotend.
You back the nozzle out, out the heatbreak in as far as it can then tighten the nozzle against the heatbreak. The upward pressure from the nozzle will lock the heatbreak into position. There is no need to grab the fragile heatbreak with pliers. It is hotend 101
The block is fully threaded and you could screw the heatbreak straight out the other end. Creality now glues the heatbreak in from the factory. So maybe not hotend 101 there buddy.
That’s correct. Think of the heat break as a jam nut. The proper way to install a heat break is to back out the nozzle then screw in the heat break then tighten the nozzle so it jams up into the heat break. Hot end 101
I think I have the same or similar issue. I just finished 16 hours print with tpu and ss nozzle, checked on the hot end to see blobs and almost burned filament all around the nozzle and covering most of the block. decided to heat it all up after cleaning to remove the nozzle and that came out with the internal threading of the heat block and can't fit any other nozzle now. Also, I always felt the heat block had something not right about it and seeing your video just made me aware that it was not tightened properly which is a problem I had with the entire printer that almost nothing is tightened and that kept bugging me for a time until I realized it and worked on it. the only part I didn't touch and checked is the heating block. If you may, I'd like to get some advice on what part or parts I'd need to fix that. I've been on amazon for around 2 hours and I'm not sure if I need only a throat tube or an entire heat block to get back to printing again.
I’m on my 3rd or 4th complete hot end. I’ve decided at this point that the heat break threads and mating are some sort of design flaw. Replacing it every few months is just easier than hours of troubleshooting and eventually breaking the thermocouple wires. Creality has “fixed” this with a new style hot end that has no replaceable nozzle or heat break, and costs more… At the time the CR-10 Smart Pro ticked the right boxes. But the delta between its MSRP and a Bambu X1 carbon is low enough that I’d rather just go splurge on the Bambu today if I had the choice.
@@IdealGrain Wow, never thought it is going to be a continuous issue with it. I saw on amazon the non-replaceable kit but that won't be a real solution since it is a copper nozzle the one I saw specially with all the abrasive filaments I have and use which I afraid it'll be some limitation to be stuck with a fixed nozzle. I'm between getting only a throat tube or a whole heating kit and not sure about which would be a fix for the issue going on rn. I just got into 3d printing and CR-10 Smart Pro was my first printer, that's around 2 months now. I'm just exploring solutions before start spending again on a different printer. thanks for your reply 🙏
Thanks for the video. I’m not hating but I have to say, you bought the wrong one for your situation. You should of bought the “5”, more aggressive with the same results. Also you should look into 3m Cubitron. Heck there are many options for paper. I guess it comes down to how long you want to be sanding. 50c a sheet is cheap considering this could not only cut sanding time down significantly, but quality sand paper last 3 times as long as the cheap stuff. Just something to consider.
ok, i liked what you did, i liked your approach on how to tackle the car and so on...this is the first video i have ever seen from you so im going to subscribe !!
I’ve been recommended the Prusa Mini+ and something from b…the Ender 3 series. When looking at the Ender 3s, I saw that there was a flash sale, selling this CR-10 Pro for %50 off ($399)! Now I am really tempted for such an amazing deal. Would you recommend the CR10 Pro over other printers the same price, like the Prusa Mini+? Any other recommendations? Thanks!
It’s not a deal, it’s an old model and they’re trying to fire sale them. It’s an okay printer, but I think a Prusa Mini or Bambu X1 Carbon are the right choices at this point, depending on which end of the budget spectrum you want to go.
Had nothing but problems getting this NotSoSmart POS to print anything. No matter how many times I level the bed…disaster. There are so many other options for printers in the 700 to 800 dollar range… Amazon sending UPS to pick up tomorrow. Thank gawd. Sure am lucky to be able to get my money back for this one. Sorry for those who can’t.
Thanks for the video, what are your thoughts after a year on the printer with regards print quality, reliability, any hot end issues and how easy are they to fix?
I think for the original purchase price or $750, I’d rather steer that money toward a Bambu X1 or maybe a prusa Mk IV. The biggest drawback is that you basically cannot use the full build plate without an enclosure or you’ll have warping problems. An enclosure for a printer this size would be insane.
I'm a hobbyist, but I have a good reason to invest in this sander. I'm disabled. I physically CAN'T sand in long sessions like I used to do. Any tool that extends my work time is worth it. 100% Thank you for running me through the details. This has been a tough decision.
I had the same exact problem couple weeks back and broke the heat break while trying to screw it out. You have to disassemble everything when the hotend is hot. I had the most success at 280C however it does burn any filament residue left in the hotend. It is such a nightmare to clean the hotend if hot filament slip outside the heat break like it happened to you. Just recently broke the hotend again while printing an overnight 8hrs part. It messed it so so much that the nozzle riped the teeth of the hotend and came out. When I stoped the print, it didn’t have a nozzle and formed a filament waterfall above heat block. Due to all the extruder movement, it also removed the entire bed from its rails. I have absolutely no idea how that could have happened but when I stoped the printer, 2 of the adjuster wheels for the bed where laying on the ground, somehow removed themselves from the screws. Needless to say, some damage was done to the bed but nothing serious. I must say the auto-level in cr-10 smart pro probably doesn’t work since the nozzle scrapes the print itself as it travels during the print even though the z-offset is well adjusted. I used calipers to make sure all the rails are well aligned before however for some bizarre reason my bed is always crooked and cannot get good results in larger prints. I think the hotend design is poor and needs third party mods. If you know any that is compatiable with cr-10 smsrt pro, let me know :)
I've been looking into some of these sets on the CaDA website and since you aren't being sponsored by them, is their website authentic because when I went on it, it seemed pretty sketchy compared to others. If I ordered a $200 set will it actually be delivered?
We purchased direct from decadastore.com and other than the Rhode Island specific shipping issue (apparently they incorrectly think it’s actually a separate island they can’t ship to 🤣) they are legit and I wouldn’t hesitate. You can pay with PayPal which offers buyer protection, or use a credit card that offers a similar service.
@@IdealGrain Alright thank you because I couldn't really find any info on them outside of sponsored info. Lets hope they wont have a shipping issue with New Jersey😂
Nice review as I am currently jostling between the E3 S1 Pro and this one. Instead of glue stick... have you tried using hairspray, or does that not work so well on the PEI sheet vs the spring steel ones?
Micro city has this now for479. But I saw a cr10 on sale there for 379 and was ready to run out and get it. Saw there was a review and 2 people said that the ABL did not work. So I looked at teaching tech for a review and he confirmed the abl was not good and talked to creality and they said the bed must have shifted during shipping and to level it mechanically . He told them isn't that what ABL is for to adjust for that. Now here is the kicker it has no bed leveling screws. He had to take the bed off and put shims in. Then I thought about the cr10 smart pro and watched your video and I see it has manual screws if you want to go old school. Nice video learned alittle bit more. PS creality is notorious for letting the consumer do their research for them finding the bugs and such. I'm also getting a lot of info just reading all the comments here. Good job.
