It's definitely something I only use when the terrain demands it - when the angle of the legs would be too wide with a standard knot, when the belay stance is better lower down, and in those instances looking for a shelf would be weird or impossible.
I agree that new climbers could mistaken the masterpoint carabiner in the girth hitch as a normal biner in an overhand knot anchor if they aren’t taught that the Girth hitch masterpoint requires that you clip yourself with a separate carabiner and that there is no shelf. Great points you make, Jez!
I like, in my noviceness, your "no all-round always best method" approach. In my opinion, these gold rules of thumb could make us 'not' think, 'not' evaluate the situations we're envolved in. And each of them is different and, again in my opinion, training this 'thinking' approach makes you faster, sharper and safer in the long term, by learning to choose the better for every given case. Also, reviewing afterwards, maybe at home, what you did and why you did it and if it was the better choice, might be a good exercise. Thanks, as always, for your time and effort, I learn a lot with your videos
Couldn't agree more. All of these options have a place where they may be the better choice and if you're an experienced climber who's been climbing for many many years adding a new method is great. However, as you've stated, too much information could be catastrophic for a new climber. The more options you try to teach a new climber the more confusing it can become and subsequently even deadly. KISS is the acronym that best suits instruction for a new climber. Great videos keep them coming.
Nice video as always. The only plus I see with girth hitch is to save material and used it only in this scenario: trad route with an anchor of 3 to 4 pieces not close to eachother and my cordlette not long enough once closed in loop. Then I open the cordlette, clove hitch the two most apart pieces, pass the cordlette into the inner pieces and girth hitch for the master point. The downside you mention (the master point is a bit too low cause you have too much material available) suddenly is a plus as the girth hitch saves material and allows to connect pieces far part with less material.
Thanks for your analysis! I think the girth hitch comes into its own in Winter... Hopefully the snow won't be too far away and I'll get a chance to try it out.
Interesting. I can certainly see it’s advantages in winter, although perhaps using an aramid sling would be a different solution? Some new tools for the toolbox 🤣🤣
Seeing that anchor fall to bits when you took the crab out is the main reason I don't use that method very often. Especially when it's dark/cold/snowy and all your crabs are the same, it's too easy to undo the wrong one and you're both in trouble. Quality video as always the discussion is what I live for :)
It would work but it’s not the best knot for this particular application. The overhand is quick, easy and hard to get wrong so would go with that most times.
Actually strike my last comment. Trying to tie an alpine butterfly with a sling would be incredibly fiddly so I would just steer well clear of it. The overhand is your friend.
Have you ever tried a pile hitch here? I use it regularly on my carabiner anchors. Also good for a secure yet easy release half way down your rope if you need a attachment point or stopper.
I always enjoy your rope work videos Jez. I would really like to see a video on lead belaying technique if possible. Specifically how to take in a lot of slack when a lead climber can't make the clip and the belay device is hanging down low. A few potential solutions are explained in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H63pxyXHP50.html
both of them can be made redundant if you tie them already starting with a sliding x. check out yann camus' video called "girth and clove hitch at the belay station"
