How to retreat off a sport climbing route, featuring the Pongoose clipstick. 

Cheers!

Totally agree. These videos never get fast forwarded. Lol. I love the pace, helps me visualise and learn. Fantastic.

Cheers!

Hahaha, sorry 😂

Glad it was helpful!

Glad you liked it!

Glad you liked it :)

Nice one, glad you liked it!

Glad you liked it! Hope you enjoy the Pongoose if you get one!

Agreed, the prussik tip was really useful 👍👍

Very kind!

Glad it was helpful!

Cheers!

Nice one 👊

Pleasure!

Ace aren't they!

Glad you liked it :)

He tries his best!

Well worth it!

Called Texas rope trick. Bit longer than using a locker, but preferred way to bail on sport

Pleasure 👊

Pleasure 👊

They're good bits of kit!

I've seen a fella testing it on Insta, it held, but I personally wouldn't particularly want to find out..!

I'm a big fan of my Blue Ice Warthog, great pack. I've not mentioned it in a video yet properly, but will do at some point! The sunnies are SunGod Classics :)

No worries!!

Ace 💪

Typically seconding the route is the easiest way. Backjumping is also a good way if you're comfortable doing it and the bolt spacings allow it.

Seconding is one nice way. A leaver biner to help tram lining can work well too.

Glad you liked it. Normally you'd gravity load it, ie. tighten it downhill.

@@JBMountainSkills I thought so but in that case the rope will be in contact with the gate

Definitely a valid way :)

Absolute pleasure! I prefer the longer length myself...

Did you get one? Which length did you go for? Any regrets or advice before I buy one

I mention it in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-P1-9U9Jj1lg.html No hesitation in recommending it! As a cragging type bag it's really good. On offer at Outside currently too :) www.outside.co.uk/blue-ice-octopus-40l-turkish-blue.html

Never used them before I'm afraid!

Personally, if I could only have one clip stick, it'd be the longer one. The shorter one may be better for travelling and is a bit easier to carry up a route if you're clipsticking the whole thing.

Just clipped to the back of my harness.

This is explained in the vid. Basically clip hard into a bolt and lower a bunch of rope down to your belayer to haul up the clip stick. Yes it's sketch as you're only on a single bolt. A safer way is to get your belayer to lower you down a bit and clip in hard to the second last bolt whilst also tying hard into the rope itself just beneath the bolt with a locker. This creates a closed Loop of rope with two bolts instead of just one. Then when you haul up the clip stick, untie this backup knot, yard back up the rope to your high point and begin the clip stick process to gain the next bolt.

You'll have to google the Petzl page I'm afraid, I don't think it's one their site anymore, but you can find screenshots etc.

Not all areas have eye bolts on the rock. Some use a threaded expanding stud bolt with a 'hanger' fastened on to it with a nut and lock washer

@@CoNFiiDeNTiiAL yes this is true and this would perfectly facilitate the method I just suggested 😊

@@PhweeRage I personally wouldn't abseil on a rope which is anchored on a hanger

@@CoNFiiDeNTiiAL Then it shouldn't be there to be trusted to take a fall on if you won't trust it with a static load.

@@PhweeRage no its because the hangers edges are smaller and sharper than an eye bolt

I have both but think this is my short one in this video. If I could only have one, I’d personally buy the long one.

I own both versions, the comparisons are are pretty generic to the Beta Sticks.

In the Petzl diagram it looks like they have shown a prussic hitch, not a French prussic hitch (=autoblock). The French prussic hitch will slide when you grab it (even after it has been loaded), so not a good choice in this instance. The regular prussic hitch is symmetrical, so will grab equally well in either direction and not slide easily (or at all?) if you grab it after it has been loaded. I'm not sure about the directionality of the klemheist - it's certainly not symmetrical, so something to check.

@@Alyogyne1 klemheist is unidirectional (and done in wrong direction in this video…) That’s why Petzl suggests prussik : it is bidirectional, so you cannot do it wrong. Which is especially important in stressful situations, that are probably not practised a lot.

I haven't, no.

The very question I was going to ask. Eco-anchors seem OK but you couldn't do it off a Petzl hanger as you've implied.

@@patrickhazlehurst8472 in my area it's quite common but the bolts here work well for it, just wandering if there's a reason it wasn't mentioned.

I also like to do that. Even from Petzl Hangers. If you can thread your rope through, there is no rope drag over the edge while having load on the rope...

Definitely an option. I didn't include as involves coming off belay and having a suitable belay device or big hms.

I don’t always! Even in a popular place like Chulilla I climbed a route last year, nice bolts to start, after a few bolts and up higher, they started to more resemble ring pulls! I’ve had similar happen in the popular area of the Aiguille Rouge. Not all bolted routes are equal.

@@JBMountainSkills Interesting! I mainly climb on granite (or popular crags) so I never really give bolt quality a second thought. I'd be super sketched if I encountered a dubious bolt while climbing. In any event, please don't interpret my comment as a negative one. There was a lot of good information in the video. Cheers.

Truffle Hunter area, Vivian Quarry

Would you rather a high factor fall, or to hit the ground..? That's the question I guess and I know my answer! If the top bolt did come out it wouldn't be a fall, because you're in hard to the bolt you're next to. If the bottom bolt came out, you'd fall a v small distance on to the top bolt via the rope. No high fall factor.

​​ ah, fixed to the lower bolt directly as well. Right you are, misunderstood the setup 👍

@@2bfrank657 👊

A classic may be better, but a klemheist does work either direction. It actually has a different name, that escapes me.

@@JBMountainSkills - hedden knot is the upside down klemheist

@@JBMountainSkills Interesting, I did learn that klemheist is unidirectional. It actually says it on french version of wikipedia page (it’s the one called «Machard français» in french) fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C5%93ud_de_Machard English version does not mention directionality… I will definitely try the upside down version, I never tested it ! edit : I did find english page that also claims that klemheist is unidirectional : « Unlike the standard prusik, however, the Klemheist can be tied with webbing or cord and is uni-directional, meaning it can only be loaded by a pull from one direction. For this reason, it’s crucial to pay close attention to how you tie this hitch, making sure you set it to load on the rope from the proper direction. » [mojagear.com/3-friction-hitches-every-climber-know-use-tie-auto-block-prusik-klemheist/] So this belief seems to be widespread…

Hmm, the bight is from the top and going through the eye on the bottom. That is a correct klemheist right? It just looks confusing and his hand is hiding it at some point

I'm guessing you can't get them any more? I looked online but their website doesn't work and their social media is inactive.

@@JBMountainSkills Oh dang I just did the same and you’re right :( That’s a shame, I wish more people had one 😥

bolt and abseil on it?.... 😕

Hahahaha, a ton of people use them on routes, for various reasons. I've certainly not climbed all over the world but regularly see them used on routes in the countries I do and have sport climbed in.