Grades around the world indoors and outdoors vary greatly. We are hoping to get a consensus system that gives a range of difficulties of each grade that will create a circuit that mirrors the variety in the world but also that will make sense from an objective standpoint and the give climbers a path to progression. Yes you might find some easy for you 7As but also there will be some harder end 7As in the app. And all can be legitimately considered in the 7A grade circuit. The Verified Problem lists (benchmarks) (when we finally finish them) will reflect this. The KB will never be as stiff as the Moon Board and it shouldn't be and they're both valid systems just as bouldering in South Africa and Font and Yosemite will be very different experiences. Overall we want people to enjoy the board!
I think it definitely depends on if powerful moves between biggish holds is your style, then they might feel soft. Each board has its own feel and style.
The video I was waiting for!! Totally agree with you about the chances of success when you climb a specific grade on the Moonboard vs. a similar one on the kilterboard. Although Kilter is really fun I find the Moonboard more brutal but still satisfying when you send a problem😅
I saw a video somewhere where Jimmy Webb said that his Kilter boarding is done at 50 degrees. If you look he doesnt do the first ascent on most of the non 50 ones.
I think grading,bweather soft or hard doesn't matter as long as you use Kilter board carefully according to your purpise. For example, if you try your limit grade, weather the grading system sift or hard doesn't matter match.
Never climbed on Kilter but climbed up to V8 on 2017 mb. Some of these kilter problems look to be graded 2-4 V grades more than similar problems would be on the mb. That being said, MB is know to be stiff and I have heard that kilter grading is more accurate at V10+ but they entail massive moves because the holds are too good. Curious to give the kilter a proper climb at some point and also to see a comparison of the two by you.
the kilter is massively soft compared to mb 2017. I've climbed all the 3/4s, most 5s, a good num of 6/7s, and an 8 on the 2017. On the kilter I've flashed plenty of 8s, granted it's pretty much my style of climbing. That being said I think if someone is a bit more finger oriented they'll be a bit closer.
Hey. I love me some rock, but great to see a board video from you again. I'm still nostalgic for your favourite Moonboard benchmarks vid on the 2017 as I saw it when I was just getting into the Moonboard on that set at my local gym. I've gone back to it multiple times for recs. First, shame about that kickboard setup. I think there's no doubt the KB is a more versatile tool than the MB, I mean it starts at V0 and the adjustability is useful. My problem with the KB is the app design. If you tick something different than the posted grade it logs it as that grade and I feel that most people have too much ego to downgrade (myself included usually). I feel it would benefit from a "suggested grade" feature and some community consensus. The Moonboard community's sandbagging is notorious and makes me giggle. Funny you did Bell of the Wall first, I could not bring myself to tick that as a V4. I find sorting by setter often works well (Jimmy's problems are pretty reliable). Haven't tried 50 degrees but will do that next time. Anyway, it's all for fun and training so I just measure up against myself.
Kilter board is more about pulling strength, while Moonboard is more about finger strength because Moonboard has much smaller size. Not always true, but most of time, this should be right.
"Best" doesnt technically mean the best rated, it's just the most climbed. In general, a climb thats easier for the grade is going to have more ascents than a climb thats harder just because more people will be able to do it. Hence why a lot of the softer climbs get funneled to the top and why many of the benchmark popular climbs are fairly soft on this board.
My biggest gripes with the kilter and most of the community who sails through the climbs is they use the ridiculously huge kickboard that most of the boards have - as seen in your gym. The other is they match.. which I think everyone kinda knows there's no matching on boards.. and then they call it soft..yeh you're climbing it soft. ...These climbs are SDS and there really should be no board below the foot holds. You can either use the intended foot holds or smear the board area in between them, but going below them is sus - as seen in all your climbs. No offense, but judging by your technique you wouldn't get off the ground on any of these climbs on the Kilter at my gym, and wouldn't create the momentum you are using to get to the first holds, i.e. standing. Taking away the kickboard and actually doing the climbs as SDS with no clearance under the foot holds, and adhering to no matching changes the complexity of ever single climb and every start. So soft yes, if you're standing for all of the climbs that are intended to be super compact and compression-y SDS uh yes it makes them soft af, lol. And yes, compared to the MB and TB2 the Kilter is more approachable and I'd argue its because like 90% of gyms have installed Kilter with kickboards. The TB2 and MB... you'll never see either with 2 1/2 feet of just board at the bottom (like some Lemur and Aurora boards).
I’ve climbed both. The sitstarts don’t add much unless they are horrendously low. With matching, while I agree it’s bad style, unless the problem is specifically no match then matching is in
@@josephgormley1175 the footholds should be about four inches above the pads at most. yeh I gotta call BS on that considering SDS usually add two grades to a problem. i think people just need to be honest with themselves and gyms shouldn't have kickboards.
@@kylemurray8662 TB2 kicker is bigger than the kilter kicker, go watch any of the tension board videos from the tension hq. same deal with the kilter, the only reason some boards dont have the big kicker is because of height restrictions
