Throw Your Hangboard in the Trash If You Don't Know This (SAVE A FRIEND) 

It's not clickbait if it's true, right? ;)

"Late 30 something V5 climber working 60 hours a week who thinks coffee is breakfast and a little pain in your fingers." I've never been so accurately described before.

4:15 "Are you a thirty something V5 climber with a rotator cuff injury a few years back, working 60 hours a week, thinking coffee equals breakfast, with a little pain in your fingers?" I didn't expect to be mentioned in this video. Thanks for the shout out, man!

@4:15, no, but I am 54 and overweight, with a bit of an obsessive streak. I’ve already started exploring hang boarding, but I learned in my 20s not to overtrain. Unfortunately, I took it to an extreme over the past couple decades and lost EVERYTHING by just not exercising. I am slowly getting it all back though…

I started utilizing the hang board, specifically the beastmaker 2000 to warm up in each sessions a few months ago. Takes around 25-30 minutes each time: 1.) Dead hang with two hands for 50 seconds to stretch the shoulders, then move to one arm dead hang alternating 5 seconds each for an additional minute or two. 2.) Mono (easy stretch, not a full body load) starting with an index fingers down to the pinky, repeat 3x15 seconds. This one has helped me quite a bit to make sure I’m warm. 3.) One arm/3 finger drag (3FD) on a pull up bar and rotate your body only using your lat and not your wrist (stretch the rotator cuff). Do 2 sets on each arm 4.) Get a weighted dumbbell and do a one arm deadhang for 5 seconds and an active (engage lat) deadhang for another 5 seconds. Do two sets on each arm. 5.)Pull ups to muscle up (4-5), or chest touching bar, 1 set. 6.) Back to the beastmaker 2000, use the far crimp edges to either 3FD/4FD into a front lever for 10 seconds (or L-sit for an easier version). 3 sets. 7.) Use a weighted dumbbell for a 2x1 rep max pull on the middle Beastmaker 2000 with one arm and switch, you should not be able to lift your body off the floor and your fingers should be fully warm by this point. Add more weight if you’re pulling yourself off the floor. 8.) Explosive pull-ups focusing engaging the lat (4-5), or one arm pull ups. 9.) Work on dead point or contact stretch on the campus board 4 reps alternating. After this you should be warm enough to start on a problem 2-3 grades below your project. I do a dynamic leg stretches prior to this 30 minute warmup. This routine has allowed me to stay injury free and even helping my finger health, while I’ve seen improvement go from plateauing V7-V8 to climbing V11-V12 on the kilter board over a few months. I’ve also reduced my climbing frequency from every other day or sometimes back to backs to exclusively climbing every 3 days since I have a newborn and have found that this is the optimal rest time for me. I’m in my 30s and I’m mostly focused on reducing the likelihood for injury and this routine has provided me a dependable warm up that I can easily measure against other sessions to see how much energy I have for the session. Do what works for you.

I loved all the examples of wrong body positions, bad shoulder mechanics and flopping noodle core. Most of the 6C boulders I trained had at least one of those issues, nice accurate visualisation :)

I like the format, making it clear what to inform yourself about your training plan before just jumping in. Most forms of training can be pretty dangerous without doing this and i'm always amazed at people going for the unstructured uneducated approach. I'm in the camp that the second question is properly answered (through practice) of correct recruitment on the hangboard. Since you remove other variables that play a major role in climbing, yet distract your attention away from your hands. Whereas on the hangboard hanging form with proper engagement is litterally all you are doing, i personally (and friends of mine as well) have experienced better proprioception of finger contact, forces and hand position during climbing after spending some time practicing in isolation. So much so that it's a vital part of my warmup before i go on any crimpy projects. - Honestly, that point should be expanded to being motivated by ego rather then training progress, you don't train to test your strength EVER. You train OR test, but even when testing going max-effort is dangerous. Let alone doing that 2-3 times a week, and this is not hangboarding specific.

One of the best channels I've come across - so much great, sound guidance.

Really helpful information here! Any climber can learn from this! Great B Roll too, keep at it Jason!

Thanks for this! Appreciate the perspective from a PT!

Great advice. Especially checking out lattice and Dave Mac. Those guys know what they’re talking about

Wow, this really came at the perfect time. I was just asking a climbing coach friend of mine how to know when you should start hangboard training. Will definitely refer back to this and make sure I can answer those 6 questions :D thanks for all the great vids!

I think hangboards are good for reguarly activating the Fingers on low loads to help recuperation, and like in my case where I cannot climb for 3-4months because of a knee injury, to not let my Finger strength as in the ligaments and muscles aswell as pulleys get used to not pulling anymore, which, when I get back to climbing can quickly lead to injury, as I still have the technique and mindest to try hard things which my hands are no longer acustomed to.

I do my finger training on a tension block with plates attached to a hub on the bottom. I don't do max hangs but I do repeaters(7s on 3s off x6, switch hands and repeat then rest 3-5minutes and do that for total of 3 sets. I then do the same thing but with a pinch block for 2-3 sets). My current progression system is something like this. Let's say I do 40lbs on all 3 sets of the tension block. Next session/week I'll try 45lbs on set 1, but go back to 40 for 2 and 3. Next week 45lbs for set 1 and 2, but 40 for set 3. next week 45lbs for all 3 sets and repeat. If I'm not feeling strong or fingers feel tired I may go down a weight or not progress that week and stay on the same weight. I climb 3x a week(Mon,Wed and Fri/Sat) for approximately 2 hours and usually do this routine once a week at the end of my climbing session(usually 2hours of bouldering but on the session that I'm finger training I climb for 1h30 instead then do this routine which takes me 20-25minutes) Would this be a good routine as long as I'm adapting the weight to how I feel and not maxing out(shaking and dropping the weight or being at 9-10 rpe) and sticking to 7-8 rpe on all sets until it becomes easier then moving up slowly?

Just found your channel from your RU-vid shorts popping up on my recommended list. Loving everything so far, and was wondering if you could do a biomechanics on crack climbing video and possibly doing another video on how to train for it? Thank you for the awesome videos!

thank you, this is super helpful! my takeaway is: if you can't get to a climbing gym super often or don't have access to one, a hangboard can be a helpful tool to supplement. takeaway 2: TRAINING IS TRAINING. hangboard should be included as training time along with actual climbing. accounting for recovery, you might not want to waste training hours on hangboarding vs climbing. i'm new, haven't even been to a climbing gym yet, but i was thinking to do some training that would help me when i do start. (i don't wanna be so weak that going to the climbing gym is useless.) i think the board will be just fine to get some general strength going in my grip, and be careful to go slow so nothing is overtaxed. i know from yin yoga that tendons and ligaments take longer to stretch, strengthen, heal. and it seems like the board will be more useful then buying those holds and trying to make a small wall. i'm SO ready to go to the actual climbing gym but don't have the funds at the moment. hoping that changes in the next few months with a roommate. just gotta finish construction. -__-

Thanks for always bring knowledge with a humor

4:45 i started laughing when he went from the hangboard to rolling himself up in the mat like a burrito

The fail b-roll in here is gold. Loads of good info in here though. Thanks dudes!

4:44 😂😂😂😂 MOOD

I usually do very light hangboarding (not lifting my feet) with fingers in different positions as part of my warm-up 👌

Haha, I love your background humor!!

Knew all this because i focus too much on watching hangboarding videos than actual hangboarding.

To be honest i only bought my hangboard to at least keep a little in shape during lockdowns. But its good to know what to watch out for as to not insure myself, thanks!

I bought a hangboard during the first lockdown because I almost couldn't do any climbing. It's better than nothing. However, when climbing regularly there's no way I can fit hangboarding anyway.

Since I do regular soft hangboarding (not with full weight) my fingers get way less injured and I can crimp better/harder. If you are not using your hands often (office job), the mild finger conditioning between climbing sessions seems to have a huge effect rather quickly.

Great video guys, would you do a video on lower back pain/injury anytime soon?

Super informative video as always! What is the difference between hangboarding and farmer crimps? Aren't they very similar exercises? Can farmer crimps substitute the hangboard?

Lmao, that description of the team kid was spot on and hilarious

i do dencity hangs explosive weigthed pullups on edges and max hangs i need to know more about drag and open hand stuf though bc im mainly strong in haf crimp

Hangboarding is just great when you don’t have time or opportunity for real climbing. If you are already climbing a lot the big question is how you can even fit hangboarding (safely) into your training schedule.

I could definitely use stronger fingers, but I could also use better route-reading, use of feet, core strength, etc. - all things that won't result in tearing my finger pulleys.

This video is excellent, I haven't climbed on years, but still found it useful, helpful and engaging

Thanks for the great content 😎 somewhat unrelated question: do you recommend different workout routines for lead climbing vs. bouldering? Most of your content seems centered around bouldering and I'm sure most of it applies for lead climbing as well, but are there important differences?

man.. i just went on the hangboard again just for a small strength assessment.. warmed up as always, went and tried to hang on a 3finger drag for 5 seconds, 4 seconds in my left ring-finger suddenly opened up and now i have a pain in my ring finger and my wrist about 10cm down..

2:19 Literally just say this and that's the entire video.

I feel attacked ^^ cofeve is breakfast… for myself I always did some hangboarding during my warmup since I started climbing ~2.5 years ago. I started with just doing 3x 7sec pulls on 20mm - progressed to hanging - now usually 7s hang on best beastmaker2k slipper+7sec lock-off on pull-up height+down and up to 7s lock-off at half pull-up height + down to normal 7s hang. Then 7s hang open hand, 3finger drag, half-crimp on 20mm and a 7s pinch (usually stepping on a ledge and pinching a rounded piece on the campus board while leaning back). Usually give myself 3-7s rest between hangs… maybe longer at the slopper routine as this are about 30s countinuesly… Started close to overweight - now slowly approaching solid V4(6b+)projecting V5(6c/6c+). Lucky enough never injured myself - now 40, still hope to get a V6 sometimes in the future.

So, here's a question. If, say, a climber is *not yet* held back by finger strength, but should instead focus on general strength and shoulder stability. What does that look like? Lock off training? Chin ups? Prehab?

Do you have any apps you would recommend for logging climbs/hangboard?

Do you (or anyone) know of a hangboard app that you can easily log hanging sessions on? Not looking for a hangboard timer app, more like an exercise log book specifically for hangboard

@hoopersbeta Why can I pull up on hangbaords but not just hang? If I just hang, my hands do tend to open. But during pullups I feel great. My guess is the shoulder and back stability is better during the pullups

Check on al 6! ;) thanks also to lattice :D

Is it best to hangboard before or after climbing?

As an overall strong dude and a complete noob to climbing I noticed that the very first thing that gives out during my sessions are fingers/forearms I'd say it's the first thing to fix

Is there an option to have injury without pain? Just feeling kind of stiffness in joints

I just want better finger strength irrelevant if I'm climbing or not. It just feels like a weak spot in other type of training aswell, aside from when I'm climbing.

Hm, late 30 would be nice. I'm 46, have two Kids aged nearby 3 and 5. 40 hours work 6-14 or 13-21.15 . So yeah I have a hangboard, because i can only once a week going to climb ( Summer = Rock, Winter = Bouldering in the Gym ) Once a week Hangboard with Max Hangs. So not really time to work on the weaknesses... I had too, I know this... but ... Question at the Max Hangs... I'm hanging on a mixture of open Hands and Halfcrimp... My Indexfinger is shorter and Middlefinger and Ringfinger are in Halfcrimp... If i do complete Halfcrimp im much weaker... Normal? Better i should train in complete Halfcrimp? Im not really strong, i can do Maxhangs with about +17,5 kg. Sorry for my bad english, hope u understand what i mean. :-) I'm from Germany ( Rheinland-Pfalz ). Greets to you and thanks for ur Videos!!!

Kind of ironic to recommend Dave's videos right after saying you've got to be judicious with recording :P Dave seems a big advocate of basing your training on reaching fatigue and trying really hard, rather than focusing on what particular training protocol you're using

47, climbing on and off since 26 (a late starter)... last 5-7 years, constant finger joint issues/pain if side pressure or if I try to make a fist, especially on the left hand.. tried all kinds of diets, exercises and didnt climb for 2 years during covid at all, nothing helped... I love climbing though and do have a problem with the idea of not doing it due to the finger pain... Anyone experiencing something similar but with a solution which helped him ?

I feel like fingerboarding is the advice intermediates give to beginners to advance however they themselves have not have progressed to an advanced/elite ability.

I feel like I can recommend anybody a no-hang 10min session 2x a day minimum 6h apart, 10 sec load/50sec rest as the potential to get injured is litteraly 0. No hangs is basically puting like 40-80% of your weight on the hold but not actually a 100 so that your feet are off the ground. Theres a video about it and the test pool is small but the guys based it on scientific evidences and studies on how tendon tissue responds to stimulai. As a result both got an increase up to 200% capabilities on some hangs. Check it out guys :)

Jesus he just describe me 100% on that 30 something year old description .. 🤷‍♂️ except no injury yet lol

As a climbing PT trying to push the limits of silliness within our profession, I fully support the hilarious skits. Awesome work as always. Off to buy a t-shirt!

Jason saying dangleboard made me think “dinkleberg”

I tuned in and after 1 minute ,gone…… no wood working on this RU-vid Next

I broke my rotator cuff 2 times to be clear ,... Nah damn this is so accurate like a slap in the Ego.

What's your opinion on Emil's hangboard training routine seen here? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sBTI9qiH4UE.html

the perfect hangboard video doesnt exiss...

@0:53 Thats a sponsorship, they are paying you money to rep their product.

The guy at the beginning looks like Alex merged with Linus

wish I saw this a few days ago :( popped my pulley on the hangboard like an idiot.

Aha! He said a rule of thumb!

Frictitious Climbing: "Can I copy your homework?" Tension climbing: "Yeah just change it up a bit so it doesn't look obvious you copied"

i tore my finger

4:15, I could not feel any more personally assaulted by your comments. 39yo Dad climber here. Don't tell me what to do.

People like this are why warning labels exist.

Read Ned Feehally….. Beastmaking! This is all a soul needs!

That's great - but just send it

Lol I’m one of those pesky teenage kids lol 😂

me a 25 year old watching this with a rotator cuff injury :)

I miss being in my early 20s where I could climb all day multiple days in a row. Late 20s suck

Oh man, this videos kill me. This representations in the background are so funny! xD

Stop tell me I'm special -.- ...just because I have six fingers, I'm not different 😭😭😭

Great vid. This should be the Oxford definition for an Adult climber.

No trigger warning for your example old climber being late 30s?

One of the darkest moments of my life was feeling seen with the ‘30 something’ character in section 4 😩

I would try to avoid the phrase "you are not worthy" in all circumstances, even when just joking around. It's a poisonous phrase, even deadly in many occasions.

Hangboarding is not just about Fingerstrength! There are a lot of beginners there can really benefit by doing hangboard protocols. Stop doing videos about Training. It's just not fair to spread your superficial knowledge on social media platforms.

"Not sponsored but we get commission on sales". ...Bro next time you wanna use the word "but", just don't say the stuff before it.

Honestly not a fan of the clickbait title, i almost didn't watch the video because of it. The video is still great tho. There isn't really anything in here i didn't know already, but it is a well structured and comprehensive checklist for anyone considering to start hangboarding. I personally truggle most with the first question, and it is an important one i rarely heard asked before. Maybe training my core on off-days would currently benefit me more than raw finger strength 🤔

well, you have a lot of good info in here. but tone of the video is kinda condescending. Like it feels like you are saying : "" do you know if you really need to hangboard? you probably just suck at climbing, right ?"" That's not a good message .

Unless you’re sending hard routes and/or boulders (say 12+ and up) I’d say most climbers don’t need to hang board and would be better off working on technique and strategy. The strength board’s build are very specific and until a climber really needs more finger strength it’s probably not necessary. That said I like this video a lot! As someone looking to embark on some board training I appreciate this cautious approach.

Too bad frictitious straight up ripped every piece of their design from the tension hangboard. There's inspiration and then there's plagiarism lmao. Great video though

I use handboard desk like a pull up bar. To increase my strength.

I'm not a climber, I bought a finger board to try and strengthen my fingers as well as other things for grip strength (wide grip dumbells, grip trainer etc.) I want my fingers to be strong so I could jam them through people like in kung fu movies (hypothetically of course). I tried hanging on it, and its not easy haha. I am super inconsistent (two young kids, long commute, long hours) but maybe one day I can build that strength. Thanks