I pull a 12’ titan, with a 52 horse tractor, I have my cylinder plumb to separate remote (3) make life easier in tight spots, I over lap about 6-8” and I use my mirror to judge over laps, I have put around 400 hrs on my 12’ in the last year and half. I make sure my wings is level with my center deck every 2-3 month, and I cut in sections to reduce tight turns. If I’m cutting on right side, then when I turn I am cutting on left. From a drone view, looks like your cutting 2 section at a time. I generally make 2-3 passes on outer banks for turning. I average 5.2 acres an hour at 4-5” cut.
Something to else to keep an eye on with that model, based on my experience last summer, the bottom seal on the right hand wing went out while I was mowing a pasture, causing the gearbox to lose the fluid, heat up and catch the grass on the deck on fire before I realized what was happening. Got the fire out pretty quick, no damage done from that, but getting the correct gearbox shipped was a little difficult. New wing gearbox was around $700. Also, I now carry a fire extinguisher on every tractor and I'm adding them to our balers as I use them from now on.
Howboutcha! Do whatever works best for you ! Doing the turf fields we normally did 2 passes around the perimeter then did alternating patterns left to right , right to left , straight up and down so we didnt burn a pattern in on the grass and the 2 passes around the outside made it so you could make wide gradual turns and not tear anything grass up . ( a lot of the grass on the perimeter gets plowed umder anyway ruined by shade from trees , tractor traffic and irrigation pipes / traffic)
The wheel cylinder should be setting on the spacers/cylinder stops. That is how you set your mowing height by adding or taking away spacers. The wings should be on a remote that has a detent to lock the lever in a float position. That will allow the wings to float up and down with the terrain.
Should have used a drawbar on your three point so you could lift the front of the mower and the back of it with the hydraulic. You did not need to cut your pto shaft…….
Huh, I pulled a 15ft batwing with a 1390 Case. PS Woods bush hogs are sucky. They had a big rash of bad gear boxes about 2 or so years ago. This is coming from a farmer, tractor collector and a used farm machinery trader. IF you wanna buy a good bush hog you need to buy a heavy bush hog brand OR a Alamo OR Schulte
The way we bush hog with our15ft Batwing is we go 4 times round the outside then the rest is back and forth straight lines cut your field in thirds or fourths and you will cut your cutting time down as well
For sure. I just told my wife that I want to focus on growing grass in our fields this next year or two. These weeds are getting out of control. Just gotta get some soil samples and figure out what the best way to do it for my soil type.
A lot of weeds for sure. So much sand in this area it’s crazy. Kinda why I talked in the video about why it’s gonna be different for someone who has real grass or inclines in their area of the world.
The best way to cut in a field is to do a few passes around the headland of the field then go straight up and down the field instead of going around and around the field that way you won't have to many spots on the corners being missed...
@@hhamilton1970 Buy going around the field "headlands" about 2/3 times gives you more room to turn around and be able to cut in sections kind of the way some people cut their yard..
You supposed to store the jack on the left front deck in case you were to turn left to Sharp you tired Hit The jacka either cut your tire wrect the jack
I like your videos. I'm no expert but, if I'm not mistaken your tractor draw bar should be extended beyond the tractor pto shaft 14" for a proper hookup. The owners manual good source.
Also the tongue jack should be stored back on the mower deck. I suspect that is where the tire damage may have come from in a later video. Keep up the good work!
Cut it and welded it back together? So it was too short? Looks like it tosses rocks at the tractor really well. Try cutting headlands then use the headland to realign each pass
No, if you watched the other video when I got the mower, I talk about the design of the shaft. I cut off a section and welded the taper end back on. (If that makes sense)
I know this might be a bit too late, since you've cut the PTO shaft, but apparently there is supposed to be 14" from the end of the tractor's output stub shaft to the center of the drawbar pin. Could you have pulled the drawbar out further past where the pto sheild would have cleared??? Like i said I'm too late if that's the case, but Tractor Time With Tim expirenced exactly that. Look om his videos trying to connect a Rhino TS10 to a Kubota.
The issue is my backhoe subframe isn’t the same as the factory drawbar hitch. I’ve got it figured out now and have cut probably 20-30 acres since I filmed this video. Definitely some learning taking place. Thanks for watching
@@hhamilton1970 I know! I don't really want to do that either LOL. Actually have two that I'm thinking of selling, but they're both worth more than new flex wings. I may just have to wait on a good deal on a used one. Hope you love yours though, good luck with it!
