Awesome video champion this little demonstration worked out very well. I was trying to explain this same issue to a few mate on the weekend so now I'll pass this video on I think after I was trying to explain it to them they thought is was being a smartass hahaha keep up the good work
Every day a new adventure. Reloading for about 12 months, I’m a novice, but continue to up my reloading game. However, consistency continues to elude me. To limit environmental effects, most of my testing is 100 y. indoor. I use the same lot of bullets, brass (where I can), primers & powder. Dies are from RCBS to Redding, Forster and even Micron. While I don’t sort bullets (yet) or use an arbor press, I try to make upgrades that give me the most return for the time and money. I’ve even tried turning necks where I cannot find premium brass. I reweigh every hand load for consistency. Each additional investment adds very little if any reduction in ES or SD. Some days the SD is single digit the next it’s 17 to 27!? Lately I’ve pulled the trigger (pun) on an AutoTrickler v4 to step up my charging . Shooting/reloading 204 (Cooper), 243 (Custom), 6.5 CM (Ruger RPR) and 7 PRC (Custom), my hand loads present tighter groups than factory, but factory SD are almost always much lower. That said, any thoughts on what I’m missing….. skill set, technique, equipment???? Thanks.
G’day @jwschroeder804, thanks for watching the video and the comment. It seems to me you’re doing everything right with your reloading. I think your inconsistency is NOT a result of a bad process. It sounds like you have a good handle on reloading even as a novice. I’m like you in that I only spend money on reloading gear which will give me the best value for money and bang for buck (so to speak). I used an RCBS ram style press and RCBS or Forster dies as well. I don’t sort my cases or bullets by weight either. I shoot long range and extreme long range but I don’t go to the extremes of sorting components. I still manage to get low SD’s through the process I use so I think there is a few things to check which may help you get those lower SD’s that will decrease you shot dispersion at longer ranges. The first thing to check is what is referred to as shoulder bump. This is the amount you push the shoulder of your case back when you resize it. The easy way to know if you are bumping the shoulder back too much is that you’ll see powder burn marks down onto the shoulder of your fired case. This indicates too much resizing and that can show up as large SD’s. I use a cheap Hornady set of calibers and a set of shoulder bump gauges to check this. First measure your fired case, then resize it and check it again. The difference should be measurable in thousandths of an inch. I bump the shoulders of my cases around 0.003”-0.005” of an inch. It’s very small but this should chamber easily but not allow for a big change when you fire and help with consistency. The other thing I’d look at is how many times the cases have been fired and potentially have the case annealed. I use Lapua brass in my 300 Norma and the brass was very stiff straight out of the box. My SD’s were huge (25fps +). I then annealed the cases with my old school flame annealer and it instantly changed the consistency of the load. Single digit SD’s that let me shoot predictably well out past a mile. You don’t need to anneal cases after every firing so if you have a buddy or a gun store that can anneal the cases for you that will alleviate the need to go buy one. I hope this helps and you can find the consistency you’re looking for to get out and start stretching those rifles out to longer ranges. Thanks again and I hope you find the other videos on the channel enjoyable 👍🏼
@@TheLongGunProject Thanks for taking the time to elaborate. I did forget to mention that I started annealing every cycle and bump the shoulder 0.002” +/- 0.0005”, or use the Redding Competition shell holder for 6.5mm and 7mm (0.004”).
As usual great video. You make great content. As a newbie waiting on his permit to obtain a long arm licence, I’d love to see you make a video for starters such as myself for which I know there are hundreds if not thousands waiting on the police approval. It’s been almost twelve months now, not that I’m counting. A video on a range of rifles from a mid point to the top end ones & scopes would be great. Not talking about the cheap shit either, just good quality mid to high budget combinations to get us started. A review on what can & can’t be modified on those combinations too would be good to see also. Anyway, keep the videos coming, you’re doing great.
Another great video mate. Your vids have a great balance between theory and practical. The focus on a single issue also makes them engaging and useful. Cheers mate, keep up the good work! 👍
And that is why top shooters use lapua brass (most consistent brass, weight, diameters, necks etc), and berger bullets (has least deviation in weights and bc). Doppler showed 0.57% bc deviation on berger, and 1.2% on hornandy eld match. Match kings were 0.87% if i recall correctly. As shooter, you want to minimize as many variables as possible, and there is a lot of them in shooting. Also thats why top shooters use temperature insensitive powders such as h1000, varget, h4350.
That cheek riser is made by Victory Company. I bought it through Australian Tactical Precision in the ACT. Thanks for watching and I hope you enjoy the other videos on the channel👍🏼
