Damn! The cladding works well with that colour. I have a white one ordered with the intention of colour matching the cladding. But after seeing magnetite, I think I will switch my order to this colour and leave it as is.
Any chance you can inform us on the torque specification for each bolt that you did? And the mm distance from the locking collar to the adjusting collar? Thanks!
Excellent video. My only gripe I wish they would come pre loaded. I'm just happy most include adjustable sway links. Years prior that would be an extra expense.
Hi! the main reason they don't come preloaded, is because we urge people to anti seize the collars, and that requires moving the collars and totally getting rid of the existing preload. Anti seizing is an important step to keeping your coilovers adjustable for years to come!
Wow thank you for this! I'm actually getting the same color in September! Ordered it and it is coming. Your video got me super excited! Initially there was a thought whether i should spend the money to paint match it but after this, I am actually convinced that the plastic cladding works super well with the paint. Gray glossy paint with matte plastic makes it look really sick!
I have the same. Only downfall imo. It lightens up too much in bright sunlight. But on the flip... any tiny cloud ☁️ cover and it's beautiful. All the colors look great except for blue 😉
It already looks good 🤷🏽♂️. This makes it look better. People forget that all subi when releases look different and that difference makes people uncomfortable. That’s why subi is dope they aren’t afraid to do different shit.
can you use a dry lube on the threads vs a wet lube (like anti-seize) to avoid attracting dust/dirt and have it stick to the wet lube? Even with the debris boots/sleeves on, the coils can still get dirty. To me, a dry lube would provide the anti-friction needed, but without the dirt-attracting mess.
ride height was set perfectly first try! Damping wise, we set it right in the middle at 16 clicks, and let the owner of the car decide if he wants to change them
...both the d-side and p-side links are disconnected. you don't want tension on the sway bar or one side loaded and the other side not loaded. don't forget to retorque everything when the car is back down on the ground...
@@ChazOfGod Me and my friend used a single jack under the front plate (not the oil pan) and did both fronts and then lifted rear up by the differential to do both rear coilovers. Then rested the car on jackstands using the pinch weld area. We relocated the jack under the rotor/lower control arm knuckle to allow us to raise and lower in order to align bolts etc while on the jack stands.
@@jjs777fzr from my understanding to do the end links correctly you need the tires on with the suspension loaded. I don’t know the best way to do it at home. Maybe buy another set of ramps so the front and rear in under load but high enough for me to work under the car.