If you put them in Oxalic Acid for a few minutes they clean up as good as new. Mix 64 grams of oxalic acid with a gallon of water. You can clean them a tun of times with the same acid and it will clean the plastic container like new as well.
Thanks for video. Id point out that your bypass could collect a good deal of sediment on top of the valve. When you open the valve, the bypass water and any sediment go into the house. Could mount valve above incoming water.
Dave, Another Michigander here; but one on a private well. I grew tired of the amount of sediment in my water system. Over ten years ago, I purchased a 120 gallon fiberglass tank. It serves as a retention and sedimentation vessel. This produced a tremendous change in water quality and life of the sediment filters. When I grew tired of manually opening the retention tank blowdown valve, I purchased a standard 120 vac washing machine hot/cold inlet valve set. I use an inexpensive digital timer to give an automated blowdown every couple of nights. I also learned that I needed to remove the screen from this blowdown valve. The system has performed flawlessly except for the screen. Even to this day, if I pull the top off of a toilet tank, I do not have a pile of mud in the bottom of it.
interesting. Can you explain basic controls. IE: to blowdown you shut outlet, open blowdown and empty it? Automated? Just curious how intricate you had to get.
I have the same iSpring filters.They work well as a pre-filter like you have setup. I find a little vinegar when cleaning the screens helps with the kind of sediment we have.
Ya i've heard people using vinegar. Especially to remove hard water scale. I've also been using Oxcalic acid powder to remove the rust from the Culligan filter casings. It's been working ok, with a little scrubbing.
I treat my drains with hi acid vinegar monthly & use it to clean plumbing parts, Love that vinegar 😂 Use a home mix of Vinegar+ Dawn spray, then sprinkle Baking Soda so it soaks the spray & Watch Wait. No Toxicity!
Mix a very light solution of Oxalic Acid with water and soak the rusted screens to clean. Then neutralize them with baking soda and water. Oxalic Acid is an acid so wear gloves and eye protection even though it is a light solution. Neutralize the acid when done and dispose. I like that you are using two water pressure gauges; this lets you know if the filters are clogging; needing cleaning or replacement. I would make brackets to support the iSpring Spin Downs. Try supporting them up with L brackets attached to your wall; taking the weight off the lines. Nice job.
Put a hanging pipe clamp on horizontally between the 2 brass filters OVER the connection for support. Pleated filters can be used over and over again after soaking in oxalic acid. There is a guy on here thats the guru of re using them. I gave up on filter heads with built in shutoffs ... they all leak eventually. A ball valve before and after is best. I dont try to backwash either...I remove the cartridges...works much better for me.
Hey you can make a real easy mount for these filters. You can go and buy the wall clamps that you usually use to attach conduit to the wall and you just bend the end of it so it screws to the wall and acts as a hook they can sport a lot of weight we've used it to hang fire extinguishers. Just a small workers hack for u
Thank you. That is a very great video. I love you layout. I may do the same. We have a well, and they installed everything all crammed in the same area. I want to move the filter to the corner on a board, above the drain. We got the 50 micron and hope that helps, as we are always changing our filters due to high rust and minerals. We will try this, and if not we are going to go to a whole new system, or add more pre-filters.
No need for a bracket with that set-up. Just add one of those clamps your using for the pex (or maybe a bit larger diameter?). Place it between the two spin-down filters. Should be bomber. Good video, thanks.
I am going to use these screen filter after the water softener just in case the water softener down pipe screen breaks to stop the beads from going into my house copper pipes.
I have owned one of these for 4 years, and you do need to take the filter out, dismantle the metal screen and clean it ever several months. Flushing is not to complete.
Actually, I believe you can change the filter in the iSpring spin-down filters. In other words, say you bought one that came with a 50 micron filter and realized that you really should have a 100 micron filter. You could replace the 50 micron filter with a 100 micron filter. They're both the same size. The only difference is the micron rating. Also, iSpring does recommend that you replace the filters every year or so. (Check their website.) Also, the filter does need to be removed and cleaned from time-to-time.
Like what you have so far. Have you thought about a water test and adding other filters to clean up more than the sediments like chemicals pesticides and metals?
You use the round wrench, unscrew the clear housing then it all drops out. The mesh filter just sits in there in the middle. I thought i would never have to clean it, but after 6 months - 1 year it got super rusty, so i took it out and cleaned it with Oxalic acid and an old tooth brush.
Dave thank you for your video. I am having a problem at my house where I live. The water has a lot of coarse (yellow coarse) with particles that ranges from powder size to a 1mm size stones. We have two filters already installed (the ones that come long in blue color plastic compartment), in one we use the sediment white replaceable filter and in the second we use the chlorine filter that has a net around it.. none of those is helping at all. Every day we keep cleaning our water valves or mixers lid filters in the toilets and kitchen. Would you recommend i purchase the WSP 200 for example (one or two of them) to solve this problem? thx a lot again.
Well yes and no. Yes i think it's a good filter and you can buy them in sizes 200, 100 and 50 micron. They are great because you never have to replace the filter itself, it's just a metal screen. BUT... you are saying that you already have 2 filters and it's not fixing the problem. The blue filter i think is the DuPont cartridge filter ((alt) DuPont WFPF13003B Filter .......... amzn.to/2HEm7KD) . That should be able to filter out the powder. So if that's not working i don't know if these will work either. I have 4 filters, 100, 50, 20, 5 micron. Not sure what the powder is, but i would think a 5 micron or 1 micron filter would be able to remove it. Maybe get the iSPring 50 micron ( iSpring WSP-50 - Water Filter .......... amzn.to/2HEiEfh) then the Culligan filter (CULLIGAN WH-HD200-C Filter .......... amzn.to/2utRPSo) and buy some 5 micron inserts.
Which filter is installed first, the 50 or 100 micron. I understand that 100 is a finer filter? I have had a lot of trouble finding this brick information, people, I think, assume that you already know this. Thanks for a great video
Thanks for sharing your install experience you have no idea how you saved my Bacon, that said ques. regarding Sediment Housing Filters. What micron needed specifically for rust &.or hard water? My water is rural hard city water. Was thinking putting a sediment filter in front of sm. house where water comes in from city main & the Culigan in laundry closet feeding to Tankless water heater. Only need for 1.5 baths. Thanks
Have 2 questions. Is it bad to use CLR when cleaning that filter? And why do you have a pipe connecting the output and input water with a shut off valve? Isnt it better to not have them connected? Great video btw
1. No. Someone else mentioned using Oxalic acid, which i've used when cleaning them. Just make sure to wash off the CLR or any chemical after cleaning. 2. The connector pipe is the bypass. It is always closed, except when i'm changing filters, mostly the 2 bottom filters. When i change those i close off the top and bottom valves and open up the bypass. That way there is still water to the house, it just doesn't go through the filters while i'm working.
I just installed iSpring WSP-50. my question is when you flush them out just open drain valve. Is there anything you have to close? Good video thank you, Giuseppe
No just open up the valve and water "should" flush out the sediment. It isn't perfect though, once per year you need to take apart and clean the screen mesh. (at least i need to)
What's the ID dimension of the drain tubing? iSpring told me 1/4", but there's no way 1/4" tubing is going over those barbs. Trying to push the 1/4" tubing on resulted in the flush assembly moving up and down slightly ... looks like it's just a set of o-rings so hopefully it's not going to leak when I finally get the right tubing.
@@blakeivy9143 I've used the filter for many years now. I left the 1/4" tubing on after dislodging the assembly (see above). It never did leak. I have had to spin the assembly off to replace the filter though. To do so, I never mess with taking the tubing off of the iSpring. I uncouple the tubing from the other end (for me, it's Tee'd into my water conditioning flush tubing). Don't want to mess with taking it off and dislodging the internal assembly again. If I had to do it over, I might try buying slightly larger tubing and using a radiator clamp or 2 instead.
Don't you think the long acrylic tubing on the sediment filters significantly decreases the effectiveness of the blowoff valve? More friction=less flow
Maybe. It doesn't help. I think the first couple times i used a bucket, but it was messy. But when you open up the valve water does flow out of there pretty quickly, even with the tube.
Maybe he subscribes to the age old adage of if you’re going to do something, do it right. Take pride in your work. Old school perfectionist probably, definitely not a hack. Just likes to see good work weather it’s his or anyone’s.
Maybe a silly question, but can all the canisters in a triple setup be clear (instead of 2 being blue)? And I live in Daytona Beach (hot & humid), can these canisters be set up outside next to my water softener? In the shade or in a tiny shed? We want to descale our faucets/sinks/tub/etc., remove the salt taste, and stop the occasional drip of pink or dark slime. 😱 I know, it sounds horrible.
The large canisters / filters i have are by Culligan. The blue ones are by DuPont i think. You can put any micron size filter inside, but they are 4.5" x 10". So you can get a 20, then 5, then 1 micron filter and put them in the 3 culligan filters.
would you think the WSP-100 would work as a post filter just past a pelican carbon filter? it would just be to trap any carbon particles the carbon filter releases.
Hello Dave, Can you comment on using a salt water conditioner? I have had water filtration companies come by, to talk about my rust problem, and they continually try to sell a salt water conditioner. Thank you!
We've lived in the house for 3 years now. We have a well, with lots of rust and hard water. When we moved in, the only thing they had was a water softener. From what i've read the water softener does remove some of the rust. Not 100% sure how it works, but every night it does a regeneration and flushes the salination tank out. However we noticed early on that our toilet and tub were getting rust stains in them. So that's why i installed the filter system and it's helped a lot with that. If i forget to change the filter then we start to notice the rust again. Also I installed 2 reverse osmosis filters for drinking water in the house. The filter system also helps with that, kind of filtering out the big stuff first, so that the RO filters don't get slammed and clog up too quickly. There are water softners you can buy on Amazon: amzn.to/3gwDZ9Y But if you don't want to do the plumbing yourself and add an electrical outlet (it needs power) then you will probably end up spending another $1,000?????
The blue handle at the top of the Culligan 4.5 is so hard to turn by hand. I can see why this has to be very securely bolted to something sturdy. Does it get any easier to turn the handles to off or bypass?
@@DaveWirth Wow! That's discouraging. You really did a great job, and if even you couldn't take advantage of the Bypass/Off lever, then I'm rethinking this. Thanks.
Well i've had it in the house for 2 years now. Seems to be working fine. In those 2 years, i think i've removed the inner "screen" about 3 times to clean it with an old toothbrush and oxalic acid. Overall, seems to be the same as when it was first installed. Not much that can go wrong with it. It's like saying how is the screen on your window holding up over 2 years? No holes, then it's just fine.
@@mytapscoreplaceholder Not really, at least not isolating the ispring filter. I did review this Electronic Water Descaler and there's some info there comparing the water directly from the pump and through the filters ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-10pUt3cRpz8.html
I was pricing out the parts and the shark bite brass are lead free. The others, aren't. Now I'm now unsure how to proceed. Brass containing lead shouldn't be used for potable water, but then even if you use all lead free connections, who knows if the other existing ones aren't lead-free. How do you factor this?
Just make the connection before the sprinkler pipe bypass. I didn't want to filter the sprinkler water, so i diverted the water after that pipe. The iSpring filters are great because of minimal maintenance. Once a year (maybe) you can remove the case, and clean off the metal mesh screen.
I probably could have gotten away with just the 50 micron. But both the 100 and 50 do end up collecting particles/rust pretty evenly over a year. I wasn't sure how bad the water was coming from the well so i errored on the side of safety and put in 2.
Hey nice video! I have a question. I am planning on getting one of these for my home. Are there any concerns that since the filter does not get changed every few months that there could be bacteria and mould building up on the filter itself?
I don't know. Not really. Water is flowing through it, just the larger particles get caught by the screen. Also you can flush it out whenever you want with the little valve. It's not like stagnant water, there's constant water flowing through it. And the screen's pretty large for it to collect bacteria.
Doing my own water filter project with these ispring filters. Where did you get your pressure gages? And what kind of fitting is needed to hook up that threaded gauge with 1/2in pex?
Parts here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0_F_xUKHwBQ.html Update here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OKzFrxKLDyA.html But i would suggest not doing the pressure gages. They aren't needed. I never use them.
I got the filter system installed and the sediment “spin down” filter is already clogged after 1 day. I am currently using a 50micron and 100micron. Should I go higher? Thinking about using the 200 in line with the 100micron
@@jeffreyanderson720 I thought i had pretty bad, rusty water. And i only have to take out my spin down filters and clean off the rust once per year. The 5 micron filters need changing every month. So if your 100 micron is clogged after 1 day, that seems like really bad water. Ya maybe a 200 micron would help "spread out" the filtration.
Do I have to purchase another filter? Or do you know if the inner cartridges are interchangeable? Could just buy a 200 micron cartridge and replace it with the 50
The smaller the number, the smaller the holes. I have 100, 50, 5, 1 micron filters, each filtering out smaller and smaller particles Not sure about 1000 and 500 - those would be huge.
I forget. I think i measured it and responded to someone in the comments. It's like 1/2" or 5/8" ? I just happen to have some clear hose already that fit.
So, I just bought four Culligan WH-HD200-C Whole House Heavy Duty Water Filtration System, and four iSpring WSP-100,200,500 and 1000 - Reusable Spin Down Sediment Water Filter. I know it’s a little overkill however I’m worried about my water. What filters do you suggest for the Culligan WH-HD200-C Whole House Heavy Duty Water Filtration System?
Because i change at least one of the 2 filters every month, i buy the cheapest ones i can find. So i buy them in bulk (around $7 per filter), they used to have a 6 pack of 20 micron filters, but now only have the 5 micron, so this is what i buy: amzn.to/35rIoGx I was worried that using a 5 micron and 1 micron would restrict flow too much. I originally had a 20 and a 5, but now i typically have two 5 microns installed. Then i will change the first 5 micron filter every month, and change the 2nd 5 micron filter every-other month, since it doesn't get as clogged with rust. Also i take out and scrub the spin down filter wire mesh with an old tooth brush like once per year. It gets clogged with rust particles, so i take it off, run it under water in the sink, scrub with a tooth brush, and clean it with some oxcalic acid.
I'm not sure, it's been a while. But i sort of remember that there were threads on the inside and outside of the pipe. So you could have a 1" female connector or 3/4" male connector, and both would fit. Not sure about US vs UK though. I think they were called like NIP or NFP or something.
I just had a clear plastic tube that fit the nozzle. Anything will work. You can flush it to your floor drain. Mine goes to the floor drain then into the sump pump.
Would it make sense to place the spin down filters before the bypass valve giving you the option to at least eliminate the bigger particles if you have to use the bypass ?
Well luckily i haven't had to use the bypass except for the 30 minutes it takes me to change the big filters. And having it on the downflow from the bypass let me take out the spindown filters and clean them once per year.
The iSpring filters just need to be blown off every month. Then i remove them and wash them in the sink every 6 months. The replaceable filters get changed every month. Just because we have a ton of rust/iron in our well water.
@@DaveWirth At my location it seems like the replaceable filters need changed every month when they are "suppose" to last 3/6 months. Always sediment that has filled it up. Looking for a way to extend their life to maybe a month or so each with the iSpring filter. Thank you for your video!
Ya no mounts are provided. The larger Culligan filters have a metal mount that screws to the wall, but the iSpring's don't have anything. But the iSpring isn't very heavy and just supported by the pex.
@@DaveWirthmy ispring did come with a mount. Before purchasing looked at what was included. Purchased from Amazon. Not sure why you didn't get one🤷🏾♂️. Meh. Thank you for responding. 👍🏾😊
The first filter is 100 micron and the second is 50. If i only had the 50 micron it would get very clogged. With 2 it spreads out the rust into 2 different filters so 1 doesn't get completely clogged.
No it can be copper. I think the phrase is Copper is King. Meaning it's still the preferred material. PEX is just super easy. When i did this i had zero leakage from the PEX connections. If i had done it in copper it would have been a disaster.
@@ELDecano1971 That's another great thing with PEX, you can bend the pipe and twist some of the fittings after it's all together. With copper it's fixed. So you might need to install a valve like this: amzn.to/3njqNcn A union, so it can be all soldered together yet still be able to screw onto the filter. This was my first time using PEX and i'm never going back. Super easy and worked great.
@@DaveWirth Thanks, I'll look into. I'm Colorado and my neighborhood was built in 1995 and we had very good clean water. The Cali invasion is happening and with it...tons of construction. Our water sometimes goes a little brown but than clears up. This is very helpful. Cheers!!
