The salt water softener system should not add salt, it exchanges ions. The 50 microns should not filter out salts of calcium and magnesium principally as bicarbonates, they are far far too small. 50 microns is about the diameter of human hair, anything smaller passes through the sieve. Also, PVC pipe should be for drains and vents only, you have your main water supply using PVC, suggest using only copper, stainless, PEX or CPVC. PVC is made of vinyl chloride and organotin compounds which can cause negative health reactions and are carcinogenic. On cold water its just barely ok. There are better choices.
Your review is pretty good and explains the operation well. I started with the smaller manual flush unit but had to upgrade to this larger automatic flush being at times I get a horrendous amount of sediment (usually during rainy seasons) that would pack the screen it looked like a brick after taking a shower or two. However this (or any) spindown filter does not remove any totally dissolved solids (TDS) basically because they are 'dissolved'. The 1 - 20 micron 2 1/2 x 10, 2 1/2 x 20, 4 x10 and 4 x 20 sediment and carbon cartridge filters do not remove TDS either. Unless the dissolved solids have been change to 'un-dessolved' solids with oxygen injection, H202 injection etc. much of the solids can then be filtered 1 - 5 micron filters are best but will reduce your overall water bressure. Reverse Osmosis removes nearly all TDS but theres is a lot of waste water expelld in the process. BTW, the 100 micron and 50 micron screen mesh available with these spindown filters are not small enough to screen out the solids even after they are no longer dissolved. A water softener won't remove them either. It exchanges the hardness minerals (calcium and magnesium) dissolved in water for sodium. You will still have pretty much the same amount of TDS. One good thing is that water softeners can remove up to 7 - 10 PPM of iron.
Not true... If you want your tank to last longer you use a spin down filter / filter before so the sediment does not kill the tank or the bladder in the tank.. house filters and UV lights go good after the tank..
@@adamdimaggio2237 Problem with filter before tank is a clogging filter could reduce pressure enough that the pressure switch doesn't trip and runs the pump continuously, or even possibly burn up the pump.
If your well water changes suddenly after a storm you should have a qualified well driller check your well! The casing could be compromised allowing groundwater to contaminate the water. This not only affects your water quality but anyone else using that aquifer. Spindown filters are excellent sediment arrestors but not a solution to a well that has serious problems either.
Watching this video makes me realize he’s winging all his knowledge. You’re correct, he has a bigger issue. Probably a clay well that’s all cracked up or something.
The spin down filter doesn't remove any significant hardness - the calcium is disolved in the water and passes right through the mesh. That doesn't mean this filter doesn't help the water softener though. If you don't have this (or some other filter) BEFORE the softener, than the softener BECOMES the filter! Its bead tank will stop lots of sediment and keep it from getting to your house... until it clogs up of course! At that point you either need to replace all your beads, or the whole softener.
what about having the spindown after the pressure tank so that you get tons of pressure to flush the spindown? The way you have it before the pressure tank, I'd be concerned that the well pump is only pushing 10gal per minute and not as mush flow or pressure as the tank can push. The sand wont hurt the pressure tank, so that's not a concern. I'm just curious because I'm about to install one.
Having the tank before the filter will not clean the screen, it's the back flow of water that cleans the screen and the best point to have the unit flush is at night or when no water is used in the house because ideally you want the unit to flush only when the water pressure is at the highest and the pump is not running and stop flushing right before the pump kicks on to bring the pressure back up. This is the best condition for cleaning the filter. Hope this helps even though giving this info a month later.
Ideally it will come before the pressure tank, especially if it has a rubber bladder in it because the movement and the large particles work like sandpaper.
At first I had it installed like he did and after it clogged the well pump kept starting and stopping so I had to move it after the tank and now it works great.
@@superheroesandprincessesfu5523Most well set-ups have pressure switch at tank, which would definitely cause this problem you mentioned, but his pressure switch is before the filter which would work just fine, and keep excess sediment out of his tank. He had the ideal setup but with only this type of filter, if it were a different type and was clogged the pump would definitely short cycle.
If you have well water with iron/brown staining, it’s likely on the acidic side. If it’s acidic it is likely leaching lead from the brass. Yes, even “lead free” brass still has a little lead in it. You’ll need to get your water tested by a lab that actually tests for lead. Most county health departments don’t test for lead.
Had one just like this that kept restricting the flow to a trickle, I found the auto purge would strip because the controller end that grabs the valve is plastic, and would not purge properly. I found a fix for it, but the valve seems too small compared to a lakos or russo
I have a standard Rusco spin down filter that appears to be of this same size. Do you know if I bought this auto-flush unit that I could just use the filter housing section and have it fit (hand twist) into my existing plumbing portal? Eg, can I switch between the Rusco filter housing and this one?
