You're welcome and thanks for the feedback. It definitely isn't/wasn't the simple "pull down on the tensioner pulley" that I'm used to and you're right, once you do it once, it's simple. Just be sure to tighten the bolt on the idler pulley - I've forgotten to do that once and thankfully I didn't drive off before remembering. Don't want that belt to suddenly come loose! Thanks for watching, Clark.
I've heard some people say that you shouldn't get antifreeze on the serpentine belt, because it can cause it to squeal. Do you have any issues with the belt squealing? Thank you for making this video.
@@fredmeyer3063 I did not have any issues with belt squeal. Avoiding getting coolant on the belt if you can always sounds like a wise idea though. On our Subaru, I have had issues with belt squeal but that was because I didn’t tighten the tension enough. A bit more tension and the squeal stopped. So if yours is squealing, try adding a little more tension on the belt (but obviously not TOO much). Thanks for watching!
I was just thankful that the new thermostat housing came with what I’d originally thought was a “crappy, thin gasket” and I was glad I’d bought the Fel-Pro. When the Fel-Pro failed the only easy solution was to use that “cheap looking” gasket and it’s been doing great! No idea what brand it is.
Oh wow, the same thing happened to me with the fel pro gasket, also ended up using the gasket that came with the new thermostat, it was a Crown Automotive gasket btw. Are those a good brand?
The deposits are from adding the wrong type of coolant and tap water. Every engine has different types of metals used throughout the building process. The coolant is designed to minimize and extract the heat from the engine. This requires other minerals being used within the coolant that work with the metals of the engine. When you put the wrong coolant and tap water, it reacts to chemically to the compounds in the coolant., thus giving you the deposits.
Thanks for making the video! I’ve changed my thermostat and my temp still does not reach 210 it hangs out at the half way mark between 100 and 210. This weekend changed the temp sensor and tried burping the radiator fluid. Still stays at the same temperature as before. Did you ever find out what was the main culprit behind having that low of a temperature? I guess I’m gonna be trying the thermostat housing next!
For me, the issue was resolved with replacing the thermostat. I’d suggest you test the coolant temperature sensor. You can test it while it’s installed in the Jeep, just make sure the engine is cold (let it sit overnight, for example). Check out Epilogue 2 in this video on how to check it. Those are the only two components I can think of that might cause the problem you’re having. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Based on the way you worded it, it sounds like you've got good airflow in the cabin (but not hot air) and the coolant system/thermostat is working fine. All good news there. I think I would first get the Jeep up to operating temperature and then (carefully) feel the temperature of the two heater hoses going into the firewall. The bottom one should be the supply from the engine - it should be hot and the same temp as the radiator hoses. The top one should be the return from the heater core. If all is working well, it should be just as hot as the other/supply hose. If they're NOT the same temperature, you have a blockage inside the core. A core flush is the first thing I'd do to try to free things up. If a flush doesn't do it, you may need to replace the core. If both hoses are hot then the core is working fine and you might have something inside your a/c box that's preventing the air from flowing over the core. On the '97, the air temperature slider is (if I remember right) a mechanical wire connected to a slider. You should check and see if that wire isn't broken or disconnected - your selector door might be stuck in the "cold" position, preventing air flow over the core. Here's a link to my video on flushing the heater core: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9ysOCbfit00.html
If you don't have one, a PDF of the 1997 - 1999 Jeep TJ Service Manual is pretty easy to find online. Take a look at page 24-28 and 24-29 for details on how the Temperature Control Cable is supposed to be connected between the heater control (slider) and the blend air door crank arm (Figure 31). If I remember right, you should be able to inspect most of this from the passenger foot well without having to take anything apart.
Thanks for the detailed responses! I'll be checking this out over the weekend and doing a transmission and engine mount replacement as well. Your videos will be great guides!!
Good afternoon. Question wensday have to make that same procedure in a Cherokee 2001 should be replace thermostat brand with original Mopar instead the mechanic use duralast AutoZone should I be worried or not. A voice in the dessert asking for help
You’ll get 1,000 different opinions on this one. Personally, I think you’ll be fine. If a mechanic did it, it’s a good bet it was installed correctly. I’ve yet to use an OEM thermostat on my vehicles and have never had issues. As always, keep an eye on the gauge, especially in the desert. Thanks for watching.
