A quick discussion on 300 Blackout brass life and a look at some new Gemtech brass. UPDATED 09/27/2018 - All links have been removed to comply with RU-vid content policies. www.patreon.com/reloading
also with everglades ammo, you should watch the credit card you used. the first time I was not sure if it was their security because I used my card with other vendors. this time I used a new card and only bought one thing which was the 300 blackout brass. few days later someone was buying I tunes. 14 diffrent transactions. I guess family owned business don't have the same security as a large online store would
If your credit card company gives you the option/feature, you may consider using their online generated temporary credit cards that allow you to specify a total hard limit on the amount charged, a much shorter expiration date that can be changed by you, and it does not use your physical credit card number. A good idea for use on uncertain single transaction credit card payments. The only problem with these temporary credit cards, is you probably can't associate them with 3rd party payment companies (Paypal, ApplePay, AndroidPay, etc.) where the credit card number and account is scrutinized to avoid fake or temporary credit cards that might be bogus.
Matt, Please know that data and credit card security are very important to us. We can’t afford to lose the trust of our customers, many of whom are very loyal and long-term customers. To this end, we do not store credit card data on any of our electronic systems. This data is immediately handed off to our card processor and not retained by us. We tried to reach out to you via email to find out more information about your concerns and provide a detailed explanation of the security practices we employ to keep all of our customer data safe. We did not hear back from you. To sum up what we sent you, we are not aware of any data breach in our systems. Additionally, if this were to occur, there is no stored card data to be compromised. The two transactions you referenced were over a year apart so it may be hard to draw an accurate conclusion as to how your data was compromised, especially considering all of the well-publicized data breaches of large companies that do store card data. If you would like to follow up with us on this, please reply to the email we sent you or contact us so we can discuss the issue. Thank you, EvergladesAmmo.com
Suggestion: Instead of throwing them away or recycling them, you should frame small batches & send them to your loyal viewers, subscribers, etc. I feel like we have a great JRB family here!
If you don't mind, I would like to say something in the passing of the 300 Blackout unit. Genltilman, Some were injured beyond help, some were just plain lost, However, countless campaigns and the repatriation of much empty ammo boxes they will live on forever in these videos, many battles were fought in Mass confusion, However, they served with dignity and respect to their missions. truly a unit remembered in our history and we salute their service.
Johnny, One thing you have to watch for is the dinging or Gooners that you get on the necks, that will create at a fold in the brass, a weakening by work hardening. Sort of like folding a thin piece of sheet metal over and over till it brakes in half. this mostly happens on ejection and the brass hitting the side of the receiver .45 auto is famous for this. Just some advice, However, there isn't much you can do about it. Dave.
Thorsaxe777 You can get rid of that on 45 ACP brass by opening up the ejection port. On the AR platform in 300 BLK, I've noticed that if you get the gas right the dings go away. I never see them on subsonic rounds.
I bought the same brass, they did not look sparkling clean new like some others, but I am getting ready to load, made my first dummy load for OAL using your method of cutting the case head putting the bullet partially it and sliding into my PSA rifle.
Johnny I'm a longtime fan of your videos and would never say my system is better than anyone else's but I anneal every other reload time before reloading. So far I've reloaded my original 1000 lake city 5.56 once fired brass cut downs to 300 blackout rounds over 20 times. So they have been annealed ten times and still show no serious wear. If I start to get some neck cracks I'll report back. Keep these video's coming.
I realize this is an old video but I converted random 223 /556 brass into 300 blk and primer pockets were the first failures for me. All supersonic ammo and I pushed it fairly hard , I did have a few neck splits. I did anneal regularly every other firing and the case life was around 15 loadings . Enjoy your video's and your own spin on things . Keep up the good work and happy new year
Starline makes 300 BO stamped as such, not from 223 brass. After making 300 BO from LC brass and all the trouble and time, I found the Starline and solved the problem. I think your problem is making your own. When I was shooting IHMSA with 7mm TCU, I made it from 223 brass and I had short brass life.
I got 1000 gemtech cases from everglade and found them to be outstanding, around 10 pieces with slightly dented necks. (maybe the packaging) Much nicer than the 1000 pieces of LC converted I bought. No doubt the case flaring is the primary cause of the neck splitting. Annealing them will prolong the life and is easy to do but at 10+ firings anyway, who cares.
Sounds like you got pretty good service from that original lot of brass. It may have lasted longer with periodic annealing, but IMO, the balance of time/labor/costs favor replacement brass over and price of an annealing machine and the time to run brass through the machine.
I'm so looking forward to seeing some testing with that barrel. Same one I put in my my sbr. I haven't done any accuracy testing yet. Just have a red dot on right now.
I was having the same problem converting LC 7.62 to 6.5 creedmoor . Started using my AMP to annel, problem solved. Now if I could figure out how to save my primer pockets. Lol.💥
I personally would save them to load one last time and use as "throw away" brass. I would use them for training classes or hunting or just in the event you want to shoot somewhere that picking them back up would be a hassle. Hell, if you dont want to do that let me know how much you need for shipping and I will make use of it and give it one more time out.
Surprisingly "new brass" is 1.358, and doesn't get longer when resized (before loading). Best practice is to resize to 1.365 after first firing (not to resize back down to 1.358). Subsequent firings will stay at the correct size (check 'em anyway). Factory ammo tends to be at SAAMI spec 1.368. For consistent loads longer is better for neck tension. However you will need to use an adjustable case length tool like the Lee Quick Trim.
Oh, and that's nothing bad to say about Everglades, either. I've bought .223, 9mm, and .308 bullets from them, they are awesome and really well priced.
I have not experienced split legs in my 300 Blackout brass converted from LC /Federal /WCC/ PMC with no annealing only loose primer pockets about 10 -13 loadings of super with 150 fmj and speer 125 gr tnt. keep up the good work brother
AgileK9TopDog fairly accurate about 1 1/2 MOA at 100 out out of my rifle 14.5 1 in 7 pistol gas out of my 7.62x40wt sub moa form bulk pack, 500 it's pretty accurate inexpensive bullet
After 2 yrs. (15? reloads) of mixed 223/5.56 brass and all supersonic from 110gr. to 165gr. I am just now starting to see neck cracks. I have some 300blk brass from store bought remington ammo with very loose primer pockets.
Not sure if you already have a video on this or not, but as someone who is about to get into reloading, it would be awesome to have a video of what's considered "normal" wear on brass and what shouldn't be reloaded. When I pick up my brass at the range and it has certain marks or dings, I often wonder if it would be alright to reload it or not. Just a thought. Thanks for the awesome videos.
No need to totally retire them. They can still serve a while longer. When my 223/556 get neck cracks, but otherwise OK, it becomes 300 BLK. When the 300 BLK gets neck cracks, it continues life as 7.63x25. My Tokarev is very pleased with the "Hand Me Downs"........... Now that's true "recycling". If only the TOK cases with cracked necks could be cut down for another caliber!
I know this video is a few years old. Still, hard to believe the condition of that "brand new" brass. I just bought (6/2021) 250 pieces of brand new Starline 300AAC brass, for $57.00+ shipping. It came in a baggie, in a box, shipped from Missouri to NW Washington. Every piece is perfect, clean, round...could probably just load it up and shoot it, even though I will resize it regardless. And 300AAC brass is HARD to come by right now.
I purchased 1000 300bo brass from Everglades and did'nt have an issue from my card until. 3 months later with iTunes . Didn't tie the 2 together , I will keep an eye out next order . I do like the brass they provided . Thank you for the heads up. I have the LC reformed and love it, may order another batch from them.
Just found you and subbed. I have reloaded various calibers of rifle/pistol since the 70s. I noticed in your section on the LakeCity conversion brass, you didn't mention annealing the brass after so X number of reloads, which is actually a good idea for reloading. You did mention that you didn't keep track of how many reloads they got so... I guess it's a wash but being a roll your own guy you know this already. Thanks for good vids.
I have 1000 fully converted 300 AAC Blackout cases available. They were converted from .223/5.56 and are polished, formed, and measured to make sure they meet SAMMI specs. Lots of Lake City cases. Anyone looking for some at a great price?
The old brass is probably already compromised so I doubt annealing would bring it back to life. I think I will occasionally anneal this new batch, though...now that I know how long my first batch lasted I've got something to compare with.
Rest in Pieces Lake City Brass. I like the GemTech brass. I have about 100 pieces of it from factory loads my buddies bought to shoot out of my gun. Did you ever anneal your Lake City Brass? I am at about 14-15 reloads with some of my LC converted brass, with no detrimental signs of wear. I was thinking about going ahead and trying to anneal them before I toss them out.
Big fan your channel. You need to do yourself a favor and get a 300 bolt. With it being suppressed it's my favorite gun to shoot. Shooting it at 400 yards steel, it's just so quiet.
That was my original plan. I couldn't wait any longer so I went another direction. I am a big fan of their brass and I am certain the 300 BLK will be a winner! The gemtech is a good bit cheaper, though.
Yes, I would say so. The 110 Tac-TX, the 120 Tac-TX and the 115gr Lehigh Controlled Chaos Copper would be my first recommendations. The Lehigh is half the cost of the Barnes bullets, though! If you are worried about too much penetration with those bullets, I would consider the varmint bullets in that weight class like the 110gr V-Max/Z-Max and the 125gr Speer TNT. They would expand a bit more explosively.
Have you reloaded 225 gr Hornady ELD? If so what seating depth have you gone with? I'm having issues with getting it to cycle properly. My first loads were 8.5 gr of lil gun at 2.250" they would fire but not cycle the bolt far enough back to chamber another round. So my second try was 9 gr of 2.250" and they would cycle each round perfect just not lock back when empty. I'm running a 10.5" barrel AR pistol. Pistol length gas system. My next try was going to be 9 gr of lil gun at 2.240" and try that. My issue here is I want reliable function without going into super sonic loads. My first load of 8.5 at 2.250 was spitting out an average of 1092 FPS...
Gunman1500 Have you tried Hornaday 208 gr? They are reported to be (and in my experience are) too weak to cycle or lock back. Of all the things I tried nothing worked to give me both super and sub unsuppressed function until I checked my has port size. It was just too small. On a short barrel (under 10") with pistol length gas you need .105" to get enough gas for unsuppressed subsonic function. Not just my experience. Others have published studies on gas port sizes vs has length / dwell time.
AgileK9TopDog I've tried and I'm still testing the Hornady 208 gr. My next move is to seat them deeper. I'm working with 9 grains of H110 at 2.250 seems like the subs at the book recommended seating depth don't want to work at least with trying to keep them under the 1100 mark. I'm running a suppressor on the gun so I'm sure they won't function proper without it on either. So my next round of test loads (maybe tomorrow if I can get time) for 208 will be 9.1 grains of H110 at 2.240" medium crimp. And see how that functions. And then for the 225 grain bullets I'm gonna use 9.1 grains of lil gun at 2.240 and see how this goes.
I haven't reloaded any subs yet but all the feedback is that you need to use Accurate 1680 for subs to function. The fast pistol powders just aren't optimum for subs even though they work great on supers. But check that gas port.
AgileK9TopDog yeah I'll look at that gas port. I've heard 1680 is the way to go but I haven't been able to find it where I live. So I try to use what we have over here. And I'm not really wanting to order online and pay hazard fee
I had primer pockets become to large. Made a pocket checker with a cleaned out primer an bolt / j b weld. I don’t like taking the chance finding loose primers and powder in the action.
@@JohnnysReloadingBench It would have been good if you mentioned the converted brass had been annealed after forming. I was thinking the unannealed brass lasted a long time and was considering converting my own but don't have an annealer.
Hey I can I get some help from someone? I'm looking at getting my very first reloading book (YAY!!!!!!) soon but I don't know which would be good for a newbie. I will be using it for .308win and .30-06 at first and then .223. I will be wanting to try out different brands' of bullets if that makes a difference.
+patton guy All of the major bullet makers have good manuals. They include sections at the front that cover the process of reloading in very good detail. Since you are loading for very common calibers and nothing weird, they will all have extensive load data. You will also find a metric shit ton of data on the powder manufacturers' websites. My suggestions would be Hornady, Lee, Sierra, Nosler, Or Lyman...in that order.
I agree. Not appropriate. Think of the many who have listened to Taps and jumped at the crack of the 21 gun salute as their friends or family members were buried. Not cool.