Hopefully what I needed for my 2019. I’m real tired of getting on and off and under to try to get the zerks in the correct position. Thanks so much! So fast forward and another big thank you! I was able to get to the back zerk following your instructions but found that I couldn’t find the one I’m supposed to access through the hole. Dealership mechanic ran the electrical wires for the MCS switch covering it😩
I know this is a older video . But just discovered it . I have a 08 x 728 jd . A fitting is located on driveshaft from transmission to engine . The only way to get to it is unbolt shaft drop it down a bit cause you can’t completely take it out. Because of cross members and grease fitting and bolt it all back together. About a 2 hour pain in the ass project.
I posted a video on my channel of what happens when the front driveshaft joint is neglected. There is an easy way to access the grease fitting from above. Remove you engine compartment side panels and then unscrew and remove the panel below your dash and you will have access to the grease fitting from above and you won't need a specialized grease gun.
What year is yours? When they changed to the forward tilted rops, they also changed the console and floor moldings. The floor and dash console are partly integrated making removing the floor to get at it from above a major operation. The lower half of the console doesn't remove like it did.
Mine's Older. 2012 1023 I have to pick up a new driveshaft and steering lines tomorrow. Usually a cpl 1025's around the front door, so I'll take a look.
You are correct. Just looked at a new 1025 earlier this morning. This one did have a small panel that pops out on the right "corner" that is next to the hydro pedal and comes around in front of your right lower leg. Don't think it would give much access. What is that small panel for?
@@peacocklandmgmt3719 It looks like that panel gives access to a switch that is pressed when the parking brake is set. I'm guessing that switch may turn on the parking brake light symbol on the dash. Other than that, the only other thing you can see behind there is part of the parking brake and cruise control linkages.
As an engineer, I can tell you this is a matter of HAVING THE CORRECT TOOL for the job. Complaining about engineering is the sure fire sign you need to Increase your mechanical knowledge.
I can't find any there, and none show in the manual for a 2018 year model. I've heard the older 1025's or 1026's have zerks on the axle pivots. They look like sealed units now.
I brought this up to the sales guy at our dealer, and asked how his service team did it. He never answered how they do it. He said these are no problem, don't believe everything you see on RU-vid. Typical Dealer BS
I found it to be a lot easier to remove the cover plate on the top works better. It is right below the steering column by your feet, 2 bolts and it is out and it gives you better access.
What year do you have? From what people are saying on the Green Tractor Talk forum, the 2018's have changes to the floor and dash area that requires a lot more stuff to be removed for top access to that area.
WARNING! I have 1023-E and the U coupling broke at the motor. Grease it constantly, every spring maybe twice a year. When it broke took out both front hydrologic power steering lines
I can’t believe you got the drive shaft back on the tractor as a whole unit. The rear joint needs to be pressed on after you slide on the rear yoke . Unless you’re drive shaft is shorter than mine
Hi Jeff. I don't understand your post if you are commenting about this video. I didn't remove anything for this video except for the mower deck so I could get underneath the tractor. If you could give me more information on what you are referring to.
It is ashamed that you spend all that money on a tractor and still have to use ramps and 4 grease guns to service your tractor. Reminds me of having to Jack up the front end on a 4850 to grease the front end pivot point. Precious memories.
