Cant tell you how helpful this vid is. There are a ton of good tips here. I need to get a 1/2 in breaker, torch, studs and gasket. Great content and well shot. Thanks
@@DanielMartinez-vw6bs No. It needs a Cobb accessport. You put the Stage 2 Cobb tune with the accessport. Or go to a protuner. The protuner uses the accessport to dyno tune your car. Also you must remove the little brass restrictor pill. There is a free OTS Stage 2 tune for the J Pipe on the accessport. If you install a catless J Pipe you MUST have your car protuned.
I'm going to stage 2 + in about a week and installing Fortune 500 coilovers, with whiteline front /rear swaybars with Cusons control arms. Can't wait to hit some turns . By the way great video.
Very nice! All extremely great choices. I've heard with the sway bars it's good to upgrade the end links also. Some people aren't fans of the Whiteline end links, but their swaybars are excellent. I'll probably get the Whiteline rear one first.
@AbelOrtega-sf8pq You can flash with the Cobb Accessport. It has the stage 2 tune preloaded in the Accessport. If you have a catless J pipe, you would need a protune or etune from a reputable tuner.
I recently had to do this again and ran into problems since it wasn't difficult the last time. I didn't use anti seize. A pipe wrench works great if the studs are stuck in. I think I was wrong in the video on the actual Torque specs of the studs. I meant the nuts. I'm looking at the service manual now, but it takes time to find stuff, it's over 7000 pages. But I think the studs are something ridiculously low Torque. Like 13 ft lbs.
Studs are barely torqued at 10.8 lbs. It's on page 1955/7330. Nuts are torqued 31.3 lbs. This is from Subaru factory service manual of 2018 Wrx and Sti. I think the exhaust stuff is the same 2015-2021.
@@epicpeaker3155 Hecksnaw that's wild how low the toque is! My bottom left one broke off and I tried to left hand drill it out and it didnt work then I got a tap and die set and drilled through it only to find out the t-handle was bumping into that belt above so I couldnt do that unless I removed the whole turbo. Now I had a combination drill and tap drill bit that will drill through it and make the threads for the hole, I do that sometime this weekend. I had applied heat to the bottome right one with a torch and it cam out easily but the top left one even with heat is giving me problems, been using a locking adjustable wrench with no success even tho the bottom right came out using it.
@ShakUltra That sucks. I had a stud break off too. Fortunately, I was able to get it out with a pipe wrench. There was enough thread left to get the pipe wrench on it. But in the process, it messed up where it went into the turbo. PITA. It took a couple of hours working a tap back and fourth through it. It was so hard, at times I thought the tap would break. I'm very sorry for your trouble. MORE TIPS - Cobb shows an order of taking off the bolts and the order for putting the bolts back on. Also it helps if once you have the first nut loose, retighten it. And do that with all the nuts in order so when you get to the last nut all the pressure isn't on the last nut. Also Grimmspeed makes a slotted top bracket I highly recommend. I drilled mine out bigger, and it was still difficult to line up. I saw that bracket online and bought it. It makes that top bracket super easy to fit on.
When I took the Jpipe off to do the headers it came off like butter. But they were new Grimmspeed studs and hadn't been exposed to even one season of winter. If you install it and leave it forever, might run into trouble and the anti seize it definitely a must. I live where there are emissions so I'll probably be taking mine off again, so I can 100% pass.
There is a jack stand holding the drivers side way up in the air. I use the wood because my car is lowered on coilovers and even a low profile jack is hard to fit under it. I drive up on wood so I can fit the jack under it.
Mostly the turbo is supported by the headers. It is also connected to the inlet, charge pipe, and j-pipe. I would still use that bracket on the top of j-pipe.
I personally wouldn't. But it would probably work. If you do, I would try it on the easy to get to nuts first. The ones that need extensions would need the perfect length extensions and I wouldn't use a swivel. Also make sure impact is in reverse and that the 6 point socket is perfectly on the nut.
That's pretty hot, but a torch is more focused. You can put the flame right on it. Use the 6 point socket and breaker bar. Spray it the day before, right up to, when you are taking them off, and while; with Liquid Wrench/PB blaster. Sometimes working it back and forth helps. Also don't take them fully out. If you can break the seal leave them in tight until you have them all broken loose.
I used the Grimmspeed turbo to J-pipe gasket. The Cobb J-pipe came with gasket to catback. Since it's a full 3inch Turboback exhaust, there are only the flat gaskets. Donuts are only used when pipe size changes.
J-pipe or downpipe is the exhaust pipe after the turbo. The stock one is skinnier (more restrictive). So when you put a wider pipe with smoother bends and higher flowing catalytic converter on, you make more power. The motor isn't working as hard to push out the exhaust gas. Just like if you tried to suck a milk shake through one of those tiny coffee straws. If you have a bigger straw you wouldn't have to suck as hard.
No drone on highway. I drove from Utah to, near Mexico and back and noise was NEVER annoying. Just sounds great with the R400 and Cobb J-pipe. I once had a straight piped Civic. I did a long road trip and the drone drove me crazy. I was able to bolt the stock exhaust back to midpipe (I had a custom built exhaust). So, I know what drone is. The setup I have on the WRX is very good!
@@epicpeaker3155 thanks for the reply. Decided to get the r400 with the catted invidia j pipe. Its not resonated like the cobb so hopefully it's not to loud
Epic Peaker haha I wouldn’t have minded ;) I started this tonight and it’s impossible to get those bolts off. I PB’d it and all. I haven’t torched them tho because i started to work on it when the car was already hot from driving
@@Eagleye11700 Wait until the next day and PB them again. They'll come right out if you use - Breaker bar, 6 pt sockets, the right extensions, swivel, and the TORCH! Be careful not to burn any hoses. Torque nuts to 31.5 ft lbs or you'll get smelly leak.
Epic Peaker after much frustration, i finally got the stock pipe removed. Unfortunately i rounded 2/4 turbo nuts but replaced them with some ones they had at Lowes and just used crush washers. Did you wrap your pipe? None of the heat shield go back on according to cobbs instructions
@@Eagleye11700 No. Wrapping makes the pipe rust. You can put the heat shield back on top of the J-pipe. None of the others go back on. I've had no issues with just the one heatshield.
