Big swell hits La Jolla California shores. Bodysurfers from the Wedge at Newport Beach join locals in shredding huge faces for long rides. Everyone was excited to meet Aaron Piersol, and to discover that he's a big wave bodysurfer.
Note that the wave are Top Breaking. A big curl is short and rough. Best beach is SANTA Maria del Mar, 52 Km south of Lima. Sure to make a bodysurfer come out with a big smile 😃.
What is not said in taking a wave is that you have to make sure that there is enough depth of water in front. Otherwise you'll plant yourself in the sand and get hurt. The other important thing is to watch the wave series for number of big waves and the period between waves. If you don't feel right and tired, Get Out.
The entry is not as dangerous as the exit. Between sets you approach the cliff, over a mussel bed, then remove your fins an throw them to the top, and climb the cliff quickly before the next set arrives. I spent my waking moments there in the 60's and 70's.
