Saw my first Japanese saw while stationed in Japan in 1971-73. Bought one at a local store, and it lasted for 25 years. I love their design, wide variability, and quality of steel.
I have owned a Japanese pull saw for 20 years now. I purchased it from Grizzly tools. IMHO it’s ability to crosscut is amazing. It cuts almost effortlessly. It truly outperforms any standard crosscut American saw I have ever used. I rarely ever used the opposite side which is for ripping. Thanks for the video.
After not having a woodworking shop available to me, my only saving grace are the Japanese saws that let me hand cut what I need for little projects just to keep me happy. They work like a dream for a woman, smooth and light, and I even cut straight. Thanks for the very nice explanations about the blades! Nice a clear info. There used to be the I think original Japanese Woodworkers shop in Alameda CA. They had open house every spring and cool woodworking and cooking demos (with samples!). Bought nice stuff there and fun to wander around. Wish it was still there for new generations of woodworkers to explore! I also recommend these saws as easy to use and easy to learn.
The Japanese exhibitor at a show in Luxembourg convinced me to buy one of these, even though I thought it crazy to be cutting backwards. A hacksaw and set of high quality blades. Finally I've found a possible use by trying to cleanly cut 6mm transparent acrylic plate without ripping and melting it at each stroke. Thanks muchly for your description.
Now sharping a japanese saw is almost impossible, but that steel makes an excellent card scraper... after its dull... just a tip from me.. keep up the great work Colin..
Thank you Colin, it amazing me how much you have helped me (and others) sharing your experiences and tips, explaining topics in a way it's easy to understand to the beginners like me. I'm not a woodworker, I'm just a home owner trying to make and fix stuffs around the house.
I've always wondered the logic behind the design of push saws. It's like trying to push a wet noodle. The Japanese got it right. Good info Colin, as always. Cheers! Chris.
You taught a lot more than just Japanese saws in this video.. fantastic content man, thank you. I'm new to all of this and this taught me a lot about the different blade patterns and why they're important. I wasn't expecting to get so much good info when I started this video.
Thanks Colin, I am encouraged to invest in one now. As an aside, I prefer this format where you introduce yourself before launching into your subject, in contrast to your earlier habit of talking about what you are going to say before introducing yourself.
I love my Japanese pull saw and it does come handy when i have to cut things off real close. I need to get that other one with the steel bar on it So i can cut dovetails for drawers. Another awesome episode.
Greetings Colin, thanks for your very clear, informative video on the merits of Japanese saws. They are truly a joy to use because they cut so quickly and accurately. Time to add a few more to my collection, and subscribe to your channel :)
Very informative video. Thanks for sharing. In fact I never watched a video about hand saws before. For circular saws I knew that there are ripping blades and cross cutting blades. But I've never realised that the same is for hand saws also. I have some (cheap) classical saws, which I hardly every use anymore because they are as dull as ................... And I have a (also a cheap one) Japanese saw which I use regularly. (only for cross cutting, it seems that I'm too lazy to do rip cutting with any kind of hand saw). While watching the video I realised that the saw came with two blades. What if.............. ? When I finished watching this video I read the comments and then I went down to my workshop. And yes. The two blades are not the same. There's not a big difference (17 and 22 TPI) but there is. And of course I've been using the wrong one (17 TPI) for cross cutting from the start. It has one advantage now: the 22 TPI saw blade is new and extremely sharp. It'll be a pleasure to make nice cross cuts with it.
Very good teacher this guy . very skilled in his own right and passes on his knowledge very well.Thing about japanese saws is they are EXTREMELY fast but unforgiving . They cut WHERE you start them and you CANNOT steer them as a Western saw . I actually love Japanese saws but somehow I feel MORE incontrol with Western saws.
That was a great video, thank you. Very clear images and examples. As you did such a great video here, I was wondering if you have another one hiding somewhere that shows step by step how to remove a blunt blade and insert and fit a replacement blade. I'm sure that with the popularity of Japanese pull saws, such a video would be most welcome. Thank you. :)
I've seen lots of videos on Japanese saws as of late. I noticed sometimes you can purchase saws specifically listed as " for hardwood". Is this important if you are cutting into hardwoods, or is it ok to buy the "regular" listed Japanese saws? And can you use to cut into softwoods to with these "hardwood" saws. I don't see a lot of RU-vid videos mention the specifically designed hardwood Japanese saws or if you have to go through the trouble of buying it specifically to cut into hardwoods. Your thoughts? thx
I watched a Japaneses wood worker build a crossbow and he had a couple of these saw's in making it. I wondered bout them. I as old as I am and never seen these before watching that guy make the crossbow. And believe me I'm 0lder than dirt☹🙁
Excellent as always, Colin - with the exception of one other woodworking contributor - there are few others that I would spend the time to view; you keep it simple - & that's the key - be you a novice, or long-standing professional - Thank you very much !! :D
I bought a small Japanese pull saw for cutting my splines flush with my photograph frames, for a newbie like myself they are excellent. I don’t know how I would manage with larger stock though.
I find the pull saws more intuitive to use, and easier to get a square cut with. I'm not sure if that's due to the fact that I use a Japanese pruning saw in my day job or they are just that much easier to use than western style saws.
They exist. They're bandsaws. (To pull a circular blade you'd need driven rollers near the edge of the blade; get rid of extra material in the middle and move parts around a bit and you'll get a bandsaw)
That makes sense - obviously without support from the sides near the edge, a rotating circular ultra-thin "pull saw blade" (of Japanese saw thickness) might wobble if it is not stiff enough. 👍
I don't sell much of my work. I'm retired, so I get to spend a lot of my time woodworking and doing the things I love, like volunteering and playing hockey. Thanks for watching.
Worht to say. The pullsaw can be what thin because you - pull. An another way to choose The right saw is teeth per inch. Very fine woodworkingsaw can have 21 teeth / inch. A good timbersaw can have few 10-12 teeth / inch. Gardensaw or to green wood 6-8 teeth / inch. The big retailer have all that in stock and good knowledge what saw fits yours use. Bee safe these sawa are sharp
Don't understand why these once obscure saws of Japan are getting viral. They are disposable impossible to resharpen type. No good craftsman will opt for them. The double edged dual character saw is best for cutting fingers of those who have been using the decent and safe saws with forward teeth. My advice to new users to put an armored glove on left hand if right handed or other way round.
My apprentices used to have to BE whacked. If you want a fine cut, use a hacksaw. If you want a finer cut, use a junior hacksaw. If you want a finer cut, use a chisel and waste much wood!
if you want groove cut use bush saw,if you want standard good cut use japanese bush saw, if you can fine saw use marking knife, make start whit chisel,use japanese fine saw.
woodworker have some differents, timper use biggest than 1 inc dimension only, not understand 1 inch smallest dimensions, house builders etc, woodworker cut all but not know any dimension,cut firewood and groove all, carpenter understand 0,2mm dimension but no smallest, japanese carpenter understand and use 0,01mm dimension accurate and use,europe artisan use eye dimension and can made all art parts but not has accurate only eye has dimensions.
i just buy my first japanese saws, 3 different, and see now have lot easies cut accurate than old europe shit bush saw. old bush saw need only timperwork (timper not know 1 inch smallest size and no need) and firewood cutting not have accurate and fine work. pull saw have lot fasten,accurate,better ,and dovetail saw have good fine accurate cuttink, and wery little flexiple fine cutting use dovel cut whitout scrape frame. easy best have japanese saw and chisels. now i has test and i know now better.
