The thing I like about the Japanese pull saw is if you square up the reflection of the wood on the side of the saw your cuts end up beautiful and square! I always watch the reflection and it's helped a ton!
Yup!! The saws also have 2 small knives. One at the bottom and one at the top. The one at the bottom is to cut the fibers before starting, the other one is to cut fibers in a sawline. Bought a set of em for €100, don't regret it
I’ve had a Japanese pull saw for several years, and I like it. Hearing you talk about pushing versus pulling makes me wonder why all saws aren’t pull saws.
As per Tabourba below you can get far more power into a push saw. Unless its delicate work a push saw is the way to go. If you want to test try cutting a couple of 2x4 with a push via a pull and time yourself.
honestly a lot of japanese tools are two handed to maximize leverage because of low body weight, from kitchen whisks to the katana. also they don't have a lot insanely hard wood in Japan like in other places so this saw is always fine to use
> "go cut down a log with a pullsaw" You know, that's exactly what people have been doing since forever. Bow saws are used on the pull, as are buck saws and other felling saws. Saw blades are bendy, and cutting on the pull makes a whole lot more sense. "Traditional" push saws are relatively new by comparison, and even those have tended to be backsaws when the accuracy of the cut matters.
@@stanrogers5613 Bow saws, felling saws, buck saws or any other saws designed for quick, aggressive cutting with little regard to the finish, cut on both the push and pull stroke. Have you ever used a bow saw? If you have and you still think it only cuts on the pull stroke you're not doing it right.
I don´t do carpentry and yet this was in my recommended... It reminds me a little of how British soldiers were utterly clueless when they tried to dig trenches with French shovels (one has a T-shaped handle and the other has a wooden pommel and they are apparently used completely differently with different muscle groups involved...)
Yeah, the wife. My wife ask, "What do you need that for?" "Ah, to smooth the wood." I say hesitently. "That's different from the other one how?" "Ah, the other one is a jack plane, it does rougher work. I can't smooth with the Jack plane." "And that's different than the big one?" she asks. "Ah, the big one is flattens the wood." I say. "What's the difference between flatten, and smooth?" It's better if there is no questions.
@@jackjkantrowitz50kantrowit12 that's a pretty untrue generalization... It depends far more on what the individual's interested in than what their gender is.
Harbor freight has a great Japanese pull saw for around 10 and it works great. I have a decent woodshop on my apartment balcony thanks to your videos and around $75 at Harbor Freight. Working the $30 bench now. You're creative!
The harbor freight saw is cool, I used it for a few months, but I bought a nicer ryoba on Amazon for 30 bucks and is sooo much nicer. It's a lot thinner and cuts even smoother. You should think about upgrading sometime
different sizes for different purposes. the HF one is a larger variant for larger tasks. ultimately you want 3 sizes of the double blade style. the HF would be on the top end of that scale.
Hi Rex, nice review! I have a couple Japanese pull saws, and love them. Something you may not be aware of, That last large angled tooth at the tip of the saw is a depth guage! While you are cutting with a ryoba, you should work the blade up and down. This will result in a ridge, in the middle of the cut where you can not see it. Kind of like a ^ inside the cut. At the end of your cut, tip the blade down. So that last bit on the end of the blade is parallel to where you want the final depth of your cut. and saw back and forth gently, you will saw away the ridge in the middle of the cut without cutting deeper than you intended! :)
A lot of people are mentioning the Harbor Freight saw. I started piecing together a woodshop a while back and I saw this style saw all over RU-vid so I picked one up from HF. It's seriously one of the best $10 I've spent on tools. I don't do many rip cuts because I'm bad at them but this saw eats up oak, maple, black walnut, basically anything for crosscut breakfast. It really amazes me.
Okay, so that fixes it for me. You're like the 8th rave reviewer of that saw. I've held it in my hands like 3 times and kept putting it back because, how good can a 10 buck saw be? Well, mr. Greg Nelson, you are the last straw on that camel's back. I guess I will buy a 10 dollar pull saw the next time I find myself in a harbor freight.
Rex, I bought one of these saws after you published this vid and I haven't picked up another saw since. Great recommendation and I must say, you have really inspired me to pursue my interest in woodworking. Just "farting around" with tools in a basic workshop is incredibly satisfying, and your Woodworking For Humans series really spreads that valuable message. Thanks for doing what you do, my dude!
I know it's not "proper", but I recently used mine to open an overly packaged item received in the mail. I was sort of in a rush and no knife handy but the saw was right there, so... a couple gentle slices and the package was open (cardboard lol). I'm beginning to think this type of saw has thousands of uses. I've used it so far for cutting branches, some tree trimming, some firewood cutting (very small fire), and of course some woodworking.
My first saw was this exact saw. He's right about an unforgiving rip, but it improves technique and the versatility is unparalleled. The real expense is in Japanese chisels and block planes! They get pricey very quickly, but last forever with proper care. Thanks for the review! Love the channel.
I have had 3 or 4. These are absolutely the best at a lot of types of cutting. I love the precision cuts I can make with these, but quite a few of my friends have never used one. It's a shame. Thanks for the video
You can get precision with European saws as well but it really is a preference thing. I have noticed that a lot of beginners tend to prefer japanese saws even though I do not think they are any easier to use.
Thanks Rex, I picked up one of these cheap at a yard sale and it's just been hanging in my garage for years. I've never known what to use it for, but now I'm excited to give it a try.
Tabourba bro we get it, you’re threatened that the west’s supposed superiority is being questioned. to be clear, no one cares where their saw comes from as long as it does a good job, and it’s hilarious that you felt a need to counterattack.
@@alterworks7212 He wasn't "threatened that the west’s supposed superiority is being questioned". He was simply clarifying a misconception most people had about pull-saws being being an exclusive Japanese invention. He was also elaborating on the differences, advantages vs disadvantages, of pull-saws vs push saw. I found the comment informative. Unlike you who seem to be "threatened" by someone knowing more than you and actually contributing to a discussion.
These kinds of responsive videos and course feedback really make this channel different to all others, and make me realize what an amazing job you are doing. Thanks!
I have that saw as well. I find it easier to eyeball plumb with than my other saws, therefore I find myself reaching for it much more often. I also lean towards starting and finishing my cuts with the fine toothed edge as its easy to oversaw my stop line using the coarse side, but I just flip the saw over instead of reaching for another tool. Great time saver of a tool.
@@RexKrueger I believe the ones at HF are impulse hardened, so in theory should last longer than some of the much nicer Japanese made saws. Check out the pistol gripped pull saw they sell as well. It is very sharp and leaves a nice surface similar to what you showed in your video.
That always bothered me about saws ever since I was a kid, especially the ones like the Dewalt he shows at around 2:30... When you push on them, they tend to buckle up. It simply makes more sense to cut on the pull stroke rather than the push stroke. It's more accurate, you have more power, and the saw is always under tension and always straight.
@Mike G Well, since I only use saws occasionally, I'm pretty sure that my technique is indeed lacking. I couldn't make a straight cut with hand saws to save my life. That said, physics is physics. A flat sheet under tension will remain straight. A flat sheet under compression will want to wobble or buckle up. If your saw gets stuck while you're pushing on it, especially when you're putting a lot of power behind it, that's exactly what happens: you put the sheet under compression and it buckles up. When the saw cuts on the pulling motion, there's simply no way for that to happen.
I took to turning all my hacksaw blades 'round so they cut on the pull stroke, and it's made a world of difference in the ease and control I have cutting metal.
@@mrz80 What a great idea buddy. Tried it on a projecting half inch carriage bolt a few inches above ground level where the only feasible position is working from directly above. I was able to do the cut without continuously pushing the tip of my hacksaw into the ground.
A decent ryoba is absolutely worth the money for a new woodworker. A couple of things to keep an eye on, though: 1) The teeth are impulse hardened, which means you can't sharpen them. You'll probably get a few years out of the saw, and then it will stop cutting well. At that point, you should cut off the teeth and make it into a couple of scrapers. 2) Some of these saws have uneven set, so they'll cut a curved line if you're not paying attention. The one I have right now has just a little bit more set on the right side, but only on the rip cut teeth. So crosscuting (or ripping with the smaller teeth) works great, but long rips tend to curve to the right. That also means I can't use that side of the blade against a flat surface for flush cutting, though the other side works fine. For a $20 tool, though, it's fantastic!
I would like to add my own tips to yours as well my friend. -Pull saws come in different sizes. The wider/taller our blade, the easier is to maintain a straight cut. The saw in this video is a moderate sized saw. While you can resaw lumber with it, it won't be nearly as effortless to maintain a straight cut as would a saw that was wider/taller. You will save yourself a lot of headache if you use a saw that is appropriately sized for the job. -It will take time and practice to build up the muscles to use the saw well, but once we do, a pull saw can be one of the most versatile tools when it comes to wood working for quick, accurate, reliable, and low waste cuts. (Even more accurate than a budget bandsaw 🌎☀️) -If you are skilled with a rotary tool (with a thin cut off wheel and magnifying glasses,) we can sharpen these blades ourselves if they ever become dull. It takes time, practice, patience, and a steady hand, but it is possible to greatly extend any disposable saw's service life. -If you're not able to find a pull saw/carpentry saw, with a large/wide enough blade for long and accurate rip cuts, a carefully sharpened western saw may provide you one of the best and easy ways to maintain a relatively effortless straight cut. While they have are thicker blades which removes more kerf, they can be much easier for first time users to adopt due to the control that the vertical 'pistol grips' gives us over controlling the orientation of our saw to help keep them level. You're also able to take advantage of the longer length of the blade to guide your cuts as well. -Let the saw do the work. Our best results will always be when we're not tense and overthinking the results of our work. As with any tool that we use, we always get better over time. 😊🌎❤️
Welcome to the Ryoba Club, you sound like me after I tried one. I still sound that way 8 years later. Sometimes I grab the ryoba instead of turning on the table saw.
This is the type of saw I use most of the time for small cuts. It has another benefit. For us who need training wheels, it works great with a magnetic saw guide to start a cut.
Very true. I too started with a magnetic guide, then moved on to using the reflection as a guide. These days im so used to it i rarely need a guide anymore.
I have the gyokucho version of this. I LOVE it!! You have to get use to not putting pressure on the down stroke but on the pull stroke. But once you get used to that, there's no going back!
That's the blade I bought two months ago. Last item on amazon Italy, special price of 7.5€ (Vaughan 569-32 250RBD Replacement Blade for Bear Hand Saw with Double Edged Blade, 10-Inch). Now the replacement blade is not available on amazon Italy, but the price has raised to 41,76€, I think because of import taxes and shipment costs. I have made a wooden handle for it, and since then I practically have used just this saw. The cross-cut side is amazing and it cut very thin and straight. It's my first Japanese saw, but the blade seems of good quality to me, especially for the price I paid.
I bought a cheap Harbor Freight one and honestly it's been one of my favorite and most frequently-used purchases for hand tools in my shop. Once it dulls out I'll definitely upgrade to something much nicer, as I love the overall function of the pull saw.
I have spent thousands on japanese saws and I am not sure it was worth it but I love them. I also have thousand dollar European saws as well. I have my grandfathers dovetail saws and still use them.
I ABSOLUTELY LOVE MY RYOBA!!!!! They are cheap (even the "expensive" gyokucho's) and super easy to use. I would recommend that every newbie get one or more. Even experienced woodworkers that have never used the Japanese style saws, will find them a dream to work with. My western saws just sit there wondering if they'll ever be used again.
They're great for undercutting door jambs for flooring, too. I got mine for a bathroom project, and now I love it. When it's too late to fire up the noisy power saws or I just need a couple quick cuts, out it comes. I don't mind hand-cutting with it one bit!
I have a double sided pull saw like the one he demonstrated and am using it to cut spruce wood in sizes from 3 inch by 3/4 inch down to 1/4 by 1/2 inch. I have found that by letting the weight of the blade do the cutting I get smooth and splinter free cuts. The greatest thing about the saw, I think, is the control you have.
Nice video with no filler or BS. This is the first time I have seen one of your videos and you put the saw you were testing over very clearly so that even a complete amateur like myself could understand and not feel daunted by the thought of trying it. Subscribed . :)
I bought an Irwin of this style saw years ago at Lowe's. It has been my go to saw every time. I have plans to make the low roman bench that you have made and I was wondering how it would work with that bench. I'm glad to see that it all worked out. great review.
The ryoba saw type is superior to any western saw IMHO. I always struggled with true finesse with regular saws, but the ryoba just makes it so effing easy to cut accurately.
Going back through your old videos is definitely interesting :) Your audio is better now and you've picked up some nice presentation techniques but your personality and teaching style was there from the beginning. One thing I found with pull saws is that if you tense up your hand, it doesn't cut well at all. Relax your hand and it cuts so much smoother and faster.
My experience with both Japanese and US pull saws left the japanese version the sharpest and held it edge the longest. I was cutting hard woods with grain and across grain with the Japanese version. The cut needed no planing. It was extreemly smooth. Years ago when building RC Planes, I used it to cut the curve on wing tips to match the curve of the wing. The saw cut the perfect curve when bent.
I don't remember which RU-vid channel I saw it on, but one tip that has made a huge difference for me in making straight cuts with the pull-saw is to pay attention to the reflection on the face of the saw while you are cutting. If the reflection of what you are cutting is angled, so is your cut.
I'd already ordered one of these saws when I saw this video, and was really happy to have my impression of it confirmed by someone who knows what he's doing. When it arrived, I tried it, and was completely blown away. I don't want to use it for everything, but for fine detail work it's unbeatable. I just had a length of 2x4 which I'd cut just a tiny fraction too long. This saw allowed me to shave off 2mm from it. By hand. I've saved the offcut. Brilliant series, thanks for all your help and hard work, Rex.
I've been watching youtube videos for ages now and it seems like everyone is using them all of a sudden. I wondered if it wasn't a bit of a fad and if they were a bit of a fashion accesory but now I've seen your video I'm going to give it a go. I had no idea they were finer but your explanation of them being in tension makes perfect sense. Good videos by the way, I never feel alienated. Some videos make me loose interest the minute the $200 plane comes out or the $500 chisel set. Keep up the good work.
I got this exact same saw 2 years ago, and I can't remember picking up my back-saw or rip saw since. this, plus a coping saw does it all for me now for small stuff.
I built a whole timber frame cabin using a Ryobi for all the tenons ,cross cuts and finish carpentry. It takes some patience cutting a 10 inch long tenon in an 8x8 but well worth the extra effort. After 120 hours of use it is still sharp. Mine is a mid range one at 80.00.
I've been wanting one for years because of the double blades and the flush cutting... Finally got one for my birthday and man lemme tell you it's a whole other world. I didn't even know half of what it can do and I wanted to own one. Definitely worth the buy!
@@RexKrueger after watching your video, I ran into the garage and make my first ever, and also sloppiest, mortise and tennon joint. There's room for improvement, but this saw works wonders! Thanks for sharing your very educational videos :-)
Woodcraft usually has one of their Japanese saws on sale every month. It's different each month, so watch the sale flyers to see which one(s) are available this month. Sale is usually 40-60% off retail, reducing the saws from $50 to between $20-30. There is also a Japanese back-saw called a Dozuki that adds a folded metal spine on one side -- this extra stiffness, in conjunction with extra fine teeth makes for excellent dovetail cuts right off the saw. Disclaimer: our wood turning club meets at a local Woodcraft, so I see the sale items every month. Other than that, I'm not affiliated with Woodcraft in any way.
So happy to see you getting into Japanese tools. I got into a little before I started watching your channel and I love the mentality that the Japanese have, working with nature instead of against. It really shows in the way they use their tools and build structures like their temples that can withstand a 10.0 earthquake.
I agree that's true, but I think most cultures that work with wood are equally in harmony with nature. Old English furniture is very in tune with the wood.
Been a fan of Japanese hand saws since I saw one. One additional method for cutting is sitting or kneeling of floor/ground and pulling down. This keeps the blade straight. The ryoba is designed as you state for 2 hands. If you use 1 hand it is more likely to start off angle. The cons are that because the teeth are hardened they can be brittle. Seems obvious, but don't try and cut metal with them. Someone grabbed my saw and broke several teeth off not being careful. That said, the solution was buy a blade since the handle is reusable. I still own this saw and it's great.
Thanks for the tutorial Rex, I just bought one of these, mainly with thoughts of the flush-cut properties e.g. nipping off the ends of dowells etc. But you've just given a 101 at the right time for me, cheers again.
Rex, I saw this video only after I had finished making my own Dozuki (single sided japanese saw) using a $10 japanese-made replacement blade off amazon and an old bamboo shoot. Bamboo is completely solid at the base, where the segments are just half an inch apart or so, and nicely tapered to work with a pull stroke. Tools needed was a drill, a small file and the saw blade itself. Hardware needed was a rivet and a screw clamp. Time required : half an hour of work plus shopping and shipping time. You are right about the straight and unforgiving: a slow pull of the saw creates a perfect trench in the wood, especially softwoods. Edit: the blade was titled "ZETSAW 08003 Utility Decora H240"
2 Years after my last comment I purchased a more aggressive saw and it works great and much, much faster. I cannot imagine using a Western saw very much in the future. Thanks Rex.
Love how this channel is so humble in the sense that Rex looks out for all the guys that don't live on homesteads with workshops the size of houses. Awesome channel
Used one years ago, was very impressed with it until an accident rendered it useless... Finally got around to getting a replacement, and remembered why I loved it in the first place :-)
the ryoba is a good value. better performance than a 15 dollar saw and you get 2 even 3 saws for 30. rip and crosscut also flush cut pegs except in corners. if you have only one wood saw ryoba is a good choice, also if you have a bad back but still want to do some light carpentry it's a good choice.
Bought a Suizan 10” Ryoba. Tried it a few times…it is very sharp, thin, cross cuts like a laser and has no tooth offset. I love it. It is pricey at 32 GBP, but you can replace the blade alone.
That was one of the first saws I bought after buying a couple american crosscut saws, I didn't really like the push cut because I couldn't stop the saw from bending on itself so I figured I'd try the Japanese style. I really prefer the pull cut method and I feel like it works better for me than a push cut ever will.
What an interesting video....I'm no great woodworker, in fact I suck at it...but I'm getting better and I'm going to buy one of these before I'm completely addicted to traditional Western push saw...Thanks.
Recently started using the Japanese saws and they are a great addition to the tool set. Just a note that you cannot easily re-sharpen the Japanese saws - so figure that in as well. I usually replace the dull blades or purchase a new saw - depending on the design.
My favorite type of hand saw. You can also flush cut while the blade at a bend. Put the blade on the jam in a window. Put your index and middle finger on blade to keep contact with jam and you can lift handle because the blade is so flexible you can flush cut with the blade bent. Awesome awesome tool. Try it you fall even more in love with it.
Rex, mate, I bought a Ryoba around 5 years ago and it is only now that is starting to get dull and believe me I have used it a lot! So, just recently I decided to treat myself to a whole set, inc: 2 Ryobas, one 210mm and a 300mm, a Kataba, a Dozuki, and a Kugihiki with an included purpose made bag. Man these are bloomin awesome, I paid £165 and they are made by a company called Gyokucho, they are a premium brand in Japan. Now I have had a taste of these, next on my shopping treat list are a set of Kanna planes. I have found that my western saws have become rusty and obsolete.Check them out, they will take your woodwork to a whole new level. Trust me :-)
I have 4 japanese style saws, I didn't like the ryoba, still too much flex in the plate but I spent a little more and bought a gyochuko dozuki saw that has the rib on the plate like a backsaw and I love it.... mostlly lol It has induction hardened teeth, they are the sharpest thing I've ever encountered on any tool so don't get your fingers too close to them while you're pulling off the guard. It's worse than a paper cut, it will be stinging and itching for weeks. The hardened teeth can't be sharpened so if it ever gets dull, pitch it and buy a replacement blade or make card scrapers out of it. The teeth are also very brittle so they break easily but I've cut a lot of dovetails and I'm still surprised at how fast it cuts every time I use it even missing a tooth or two. If you are interested in the gyochuko saw, shop around, the prices vary wildly. I bought mine on amazon for like 32 bux, but the same saw sells at japan woodworker for 3 times that
Great video once again Rex. I have a Japanese pull saw, not the ryoba, that is single sided but has the same style handle as the ryoba. I find that I reach for the pull saw far more often than I do the western style saw that I have unless I just need to a rough piece for something. I find that the pull saw actually cuts faster, maybe just because I’m able to get it started quicker.
I'm on my second Gyokucho from Amazon and they come in under $20. I prefer ryoba for dovetailing. The first one lasted nearly 3 years and made about four dozen small dovetail boxes, four dovetailed carcasses, about a dozen large drawer bodies, and uncounted flush cuts of pegs and other random cuts. The only reason I'm on my second is because the first one got a kink in it, and I replaced it and kept it as a beater, and that really didn't last very long. Once I stopped treating it like a delicate tool it developed a crack near the handle. I had a couple of those Shark brand saws in my younger days and they worked ok too - they were generally thicker plates. I have had one of the HF saws too and like almost everything else at HF, they got the general idea but it's definitely not in the same class. The real deal is so little extra money that buying HF here doesn't make any sense.
If you get a small kink, you can try to fix it. You need a small hammer (half pound or less) and a totally flat surface. Lay the blade flat on the palm of your hand, and look from the handle to the end keeping your eyes level as close as possible to the handle level. Look carefully and flip the blade and check again. Once you got a grasp of the kink size and location, lay the blade on the flat surface and start tapping from the edges of the kink to the center. Tap lightly, as when you try to fix a plane iron. Get a tapping around the outer layer of the kink and watch again. If the kink starts to flatten, go another round. If the kink splits in two or goes the other way around, you are tapping too hard/getting to the center too fast. Heating the blade in hot water or leaving it in the scorching sun before hammering relaxes the metal a little (just wipe bone dry and oil immediately after finishing the job) Keep away the cheapest/first kinking blade to practice, once you get the gist of it your saw will last longer. Wobble gently a new saw as soon as you get it and try to remember the sound it makes: as soon as a kink gets into it, the sound will actually change slightly and you will know the blade is kinked even without looking at it.
Welcome to the world of pulling! I own two pull saws. One is a smaller version of what you demonstrated (blue handle; brand forgotten), the other a tree pruning saw. Pulling is more comfortable than pushing.
I have bunch of Japanese Tools. I began with the saws, moved to chisels, and then planes. I love my old European style planes but my Japanese planes are truly superb. My saws are sharpenable and were not by any means inexpensive. Learning to sharpening my saws was a long process but worth it. I also have a collection of the lower priced impulse hardened Japanese saws with replaceable blades. I started out with them and were certainly worth the investment. One of the saws has lasted 30 years with only 1 blade change.
I love my ryoba, its a friggin harbor freight saw i got for Christmas, it sat forever before i decided to make a handle for it so at least it didn't look like a garbage saw. I tried it and loved it, i use it for at least 33% of my manual cuts.
I live in Hawaii,so we have a certain amount of Asian influence in our buildings. As a professional carpenter I tried a Japan style pull saw 30 some yrs ago. Still using them...if it works good/well in my job I use it. Btw, I saw it spelled Ryoba saw yrs ago, and always called it that. The "R" is silent so I think it's called Yoba.
I bought the IRWIN ryoba a year ago, it´s ~18$ in Denmark. Pro´s and con´s: Being thinner, and having such fine teeth, ryobas are more fragile than western saws.. don´t drop them on a concrete floor (happened to me twice on the first day). Also, a single nail in the wood will destroy your crosscutting teeth. -And there´s a learning curve, and a whole new set of tricks to these saws. On the other hand, I LOVE that it´s take-down, so it will fit in quite a small toolbox or even a small backpack. It´s a 3-in-one saw, as you say: rip, crosscut (fine enough for a beginner´s joinery), and flush cut. Learning the saw and the tricks has been a fun experience, and my next saw will be... -another one just like it! I pretty much wrecked the teeth learning to use it, and I´ve been looking online, but not even IRWIN´s own website will sell me replacement blades for it. A belated thanks, Rex, for your very instructive videos, btw :) !!
Thanks Rex. Love the explanations in your videos, also in your build ones, the little extra time to watch is well worth it. Keep up the excellent work.
Absolutely... didn't get one until 7-8 years ago and was MORE than pleasantly surprised. Just don't drop through the cut onto the bench or worse, the vise itself. The teeth are so small and thin and that'll ruin a few (bend or actually break off). So.... I'm on my second (or third?) one, but still worth it. PS, using a bench vise, a folded up cloth (thick) under the saw might be helpful preventing tooth damage if the saw drops through the cut.
@@RexKrueger Still a great tool, fragile teeth. My first Stanley ricocheted of the vise and destroyed about 5 teeth. I have a "spare" harbor freight model and my (second) Stanley. I try to be more careful now. If I ruined the Stanley, I'd be off to buy another pretty quickly. Tools get worn out and sometimes damaged, fact of life.
Bought my first one from a small store in Fuchu City in Japan where I was stationed in 1971...lasted 20 years. I now have four kinds with a range of teeth per inch and styles.
My big box hardwares have the most rubbish ranges of saws. I can't even get a flush cut saw like your Vaughan. I'll check out online options. You're right - those Japanese woodworkers are mesmerising to watch. Nice vid Rex.
The handsaws at my local big-box are terrible. That Dewalt I show in the video is pretty mediocre and it's only $8 less than the Vaughn. For that money, you might as well get the better tool.
My first saw purchase was a saw similar to this but imported from Japan for a similar price. I fell in love with it. It cuts so nicely compared to pretty much any other hand saw I have used up until this point. My tool set is limited currently, but I would highly suggest this type of saw if you need a good hand saw to make fine cuts. Well worth the cost, which is not even that much to begin with.
Encountered these about twenty years ago. First reaction was "looks like a fly-swatter". Love them. Just be careful, a friend of a friend got a little too close when starting a cut and managed to cut the tip of his nose.
I just started using a Japanese dovetail pull saw for the first time yesterday and it's a game changer. Going to buy a pull saw next. And, you can't beat the price, even for an inexpensive one. They work so well and easy. Thanks for the nice review!
I have the same pull saw. I love it. I find the course side binds up a lot and I barely use it, but I've pretty much replaced my sawsall with the fine side. The cuts are ridiculously clean and once used to it, faster than a power tool.
@@RexKrueger I got an Irwin one from my local hardware store for around 12 dollars. I made a new handle out of oak for a push saw and used it to make the slot for the blade in the handle and it was amazing.
Hi Rex, have just started watching some of you videos and ran across this. I've been studying Japanese carpentry for about 12 years now and had a master teach me while I was in Japan. Can I give a few hints? The handle is long to get your guiding hand away from the blade, the further away the more accurate the cut. If your hand wiggles a 1/16" then grabbing the saw next to the blade will give you that much error. Guiding it a for away will reduce the error to about 1/100". So I guide with my right hand on the end of the handle. He made me practice just sawing with my right hand, the saw cuts almost as fast. Then he had me add my left hand open flat so it doesn't influence the guiding of the saw, just adding downward pressure. Later I could grab the saw but just adding downward force. When starting a crosscut cut use the top or end of the blade, that gets your right hand or guiding hand as far as possible from the cut. Again the principle of reducing the error by being farther away from the blade. Saw a tiny groove around an 1/8" deep as accurately as you can. Rip cuts start at the heel of the blade. The reason is the rip cut teeth are finer at the heel and coarser near the tip. That helps the blade cut faster as the pressure is less out there. Otherwise same as starting crosscuts. The next part is aiming for the rest of the cut. As you said once you start cutting crooked it's nearly impossible to get it back in line. It's also a way to tell whether you need to replace the blade. If it always curves left or right then it's time to change the blade. To aim you have to position your body so you pull the handle into your belly button and your eyes can split the saw on the line. In the beginning of the cut I sometimes just cut with my right hand to help aim the blade. Then when I'm pretty sure I'm on target I add my left hand. Have to run but might leave other hints. I like the Gyukochu brand of saws, very fast cutting and send to last longer. They take a Ryoba saw that is made for hardwoods.
Total amateur here but I appreciate your passion for hand tools. For whatever reason, I always ask myself "How would I do this without electricity?", as if understanding the progression toward power tools will impart some deeper understanding that will make me a better craftsman. Mastering the basics and all that.
One thing you should mention is shopping for things on sale. My local woodworking store had a nice big Japanese saw on sale for 28 bucks. It was exactly what I needed too.
I've just bought my second pull saw from Harbor Freight. I had purchased one earlier last year, and abused it...chopping at small branches while doing some work on a lean to shed. I ended up breaking off some of the teeth. But... I did discover that these saws are EXCELLENT wasp killers. You can slap them right out of the air, with the flat of the blade. I keep a constant vigil for wasps in my yard, as I have two children. And they love to nest in their playhouse. So, I've bought another saw to use as a proper saw...because they are great. And have ground all the teeth off the old one to keep as a wasp killing paddle.
