Full fall reppoting and styling of this Pinus parviflora, in bunjin (literati) style. Thank you for your time! Visit my instagram at: www.instagram.... #bonsai #japanese #white #pine #Pinus #parviflora #arkefthos
Sorry I have been too busy to see your recent inspirational videos. This was as good as always and so calming - a beautiful JWP. I finally worked out that you have named the channel after a Greek Hotel - that was probably obvious to everyone else...but I am English! I still can't believe how much root you were able to safely remove. Keep up the great work. cheer, Xavier
Xavier! Busy with ferry trips and Katsura maples I hope! This root removal in autumn is only safe if you can provide perfect aftercare. Actually the name comes from the ancient Greek word for juniper. This how Greeks called juniperus 2000 years ago, actually not obvious at all! Cheers!
Nice tree. I was always told to leave more original soil with pines when repotting to keep the bacteria (mychorizae) in the roots. Doesn't it hurt the pine to clean the roots like that? Or did you add mychorizae to the new soil? Edit: just realized you said it in the captions, my bad!
Thank you Dimitri! I really despise akadama. If it's possible I would like to remove all of it and start fresh with (my idea of) quality soil. In this case it was. 1. Tree had a rich root system 2. I went a bit oversized with the pot 3. Roots were very active and 4. As you saw I added mycorrhiza with the new soil. Plus, if you can provide perfect after care, the pine will be fine. Unfortunately, the soil was bad, no sign of mycoriza and and roots were suffocating. It had to be done. Cheers!
It's too bad you can't get your filming setup to the tree line of that mountain peak; it'd be interesting (perhaps inspiring to you?) to see you working your tree amidst the naturally shrunk trees. It'll be nice to see this tree develop in the future, it's already got a lot of character.
Thank you! Here in Greece, it's probably a blessing that people can't reach that tree line by car. That way it might still stay beautiful. But there are other awesome places I will visit in the future! Cheers!
I love watching your video! The white pine is well balanced and shows its natural beauty. The video is also relaxing and calming. Keep up an excellent job!!!
No. Repotting was exactly 32 days ago. The roots were very active so it was actually safe to repot in October, having 6 to 7 weeks before the first frost. Tree is looking good now and sap is flowing with very good pressure!
Όπως πάντα, ένας εμπλουτισμός. Δεν θα πίστευα ότι έχουμε τόσα πολλά κοινά, καθώς το αγαπημένο μου είναι το στυλ Bunjin. Ευχαριστώ για την εκπαιδευτική ταινία.
Obviously the tree is a testament to your fine work, but i have a general question. Maybe - as with root pruning - this tree's health allows it, but would you recommend rinsing the root ball as a rule? Asking because everywhere i read, i see recommendations not to do that (so as to not wash away the mycorhyza).
Thank you for your kind words! In conifers you never rinse the rootball. Even in very young trees, 3 or 4 year Olds, when you repot and you have to completely bare root the tree, to start training the roots and set them into in the correct places for a nice nebari, you bareroot but never rinse. In more mature conifers you never bareroot the tree. There is always a part of the rootball, usually under the nebari, left completely untouched. During repotting, I spray gently the roots so that they don't dry out, but never rince. I do the same in deciduous as well. These get bare rooted all the time but I generally prefer not to rinse. Beneficial organism live there too. For example, in my endemic Carpinus orientalis I have extended micorrhyzae occupying the roots. Not rinse, just mist. Cheers!
Hey Bob, my lowest temperature here is - 15 Celsius (5 F) and usually comes with snow coverage. But below - 2 C (28,4 F) I put the trees I can lift into a poly greenhouse with supplemental heating to keep them just barely below freezing. Trees I can't move, I cover them in frost cloth, like the big Cedrus bonsai I have or some pomegranate that are growing in the ground.
Thank you Edward! I never use akadama. Instead I use inorganic mixes of zeolite, perlite and pumice and I might add some organic aggricates (forest topsoil) depending the species. Usually I use equal parrs zeolite and perlite with some organic (no more than 10%) and pumice with some perlite for trees I lift from the ground that lose the vast majority of their root system. For this one I used 50% zeolite and 50% perlite, no organic. Cheers!
συγχαρητήρια για την δουλειά σου στα δεντράκια σου καθώς και για τα ωραία βίντεο που ανεβάζεις. Το υπόστρωμα είναι ζεόλιθος? Αν ναι, υπάρχουν κάποια "tips" στην χρήση του? Μήπως έχεις χρησιμοποιήσει βερμικουλίτη ως υπόστρωμα?
Καλησπέρα Γιώργο. Σε ευχαριστώ! Το υπόστρωμα είναι ζεολιθος, περλιτης και ελαφρόπετρα, όλα σε 3-5mm μέγεθος. Ανάλογα το είδος μπορεί να προσθέσω και μέχρι 20% οργανικό που αργεί σχετικά να διασπαστεί (ημικομποστοποιημενες βελόνες και κομμάτια από κουκουνάρι ελατου). Δεν έχει κάτι ιδιαίτερο να ξέρεις για τον ζεολιθο, εκτός του ότι ειναι εξαιρετικός, δε διασπάται για πολλά χρόνια και έχει πολύ υψηλό cation exchange capacity (υψηλότερο του akadama). Τώρα αν πας σε αυτό το μείγμα υποστρώματος που βάζω, θέλει προσοχή μη στεγνώσει το δέντρο αλλά είναι αδύνατο να το χάσεις από υπερβολικό πότισμα. Και εννοείται οι ρίζες μεγαλώνουν ιδανικά, εύκολα και γρήγορα. Ουσιαστικά το πότε θα χρειαστεί repotting δε το καθορίζει η υποβάθμιση της ποιότητας του υποστρώματος (δε θα συμβεί στο διάστημα αναμεσα στις μεταφυτευσεις) αλλά το ότι γέμισε τον χώρο τους οι ρίζες. Κατά την άποψή μου πολύ ανώτερο των ευρέως χρησιμοποιούμενων συνδιασμων.....
The tree has a beautiful nebari going on and I decided that I will be developing it further. To do so, you need maximum aeration in the soil. Further more, since I repotted in October, I will be misting the foliage constantly and keep the substrate relatively moist for 3 - 4 weeks. With organic matter in the soil this would be too wet and you don't need that. Plus, winter is ahead, so rain, snow and humidity will be high. By next summer, when the completely inorganic soil will get quite dry fast, I will place moss in the surface and some organic matter from the fertilizer will have already accumulated in. It's going to be better for summer. I won't be fertilizing now but I will start at the end of March with light organic fertilizer (around 4 - 2 - 3) and gradually heavier organic (around 10 - 8 - 12) until early June. For now, all I do is deep watering with organic root activator from algae aminoacids once a week and looks great! Cheers!
