Amazing work Jazz! Thanks to you for all your hard work by uploading these helpful videos to those who are new to the trucking world. God bless you and wish you a very successful journey. 🙏👍👍👍👍
thank you jaz for the video , very helpfull. today i passed my DZ test thanks to your videos , specialy the in cab check . note : i didnt go to any driving schoul and what i learn was from this video.
As a Certified Evaluator and Instructor with almost 50 years of trucking, what I can tell you based on what I have seen, is you get the gist of it. Would you fail, No. Failure is a lesson to be learned and an opportunity to understand what you're missing, or may not have known, or, your complacency, has allowed you to miss a step, without thinking of the repercussions down the road,. Personally, I'd offer a 1-hour course to refresh your memory. With no airbags on your truck, you did good on height, when dropping the trailer, but what would you have done if a driver before you dropped that trailer loaded and it was just below the transom. I would rate this video a 7/10--- good job
My question is, what do you do, "IF" you don't have wheel chalks or block, available? If you're running a day-cab, you have no place to safely secure, what can you do? Talking to an examiner is for when you are getting into trucking. What should you do, when you have a Class A and you are "Coupling and Uncoupling", forget the examiner. If you are "unable" to unlock or pull the locking arm out, it has nothing to do with friction. And has everything to do with the position of the 5th wheel. Your best route when you're about to uncouple is to take the pressure "AWAY" from the jaws or locking arm. Just get back into the cab put it in reverse and take the pressure away from the jaws. On that catwalk, ( mind you what you do in your yard is your business, but as soon as you drive on that road, it is yours and theirs) bungee cords are illegal and placement of the line is not allowed. It is why truck manufacturers, have a Lines Holder on the back of the cab. I know that this is all for "How To", but if you're going to show how it is done, please make sure, they understand the rules.
You have done a very good job. Well explained. It is very useful. This is more than sufficient to pass the test. But I have to still point out what is lagging in this video. Please use a camera instead of your cell phone while making the video. This video gives you a feeling that you are hiding behind a curtain and watching it. Even if you have to buy a refurbished camera, it costs you just $200, but it will give your video a very professional look. secondly please switch off the engine while you explain. The tractor noise is not pleasant.
Sir make a separate video which shows All Truck parts names inside front hood and all other and their work Liquid types to be filled in different parts etc. Please..
When I am dropping a laden trailer first off I check the ground, let's say I am dropping on a concrete yard first I disconnect the air lines and stow them on the back of the cab then I dump the air suspension on the trailer it keeps weight off the landing gear then I, wind down the landing gear when it touches the ground I, put the handle in low, gear and wind it, some more until it's really solid i then open the safety clip on the fifth wheel and pull the handle now I, sit, in the truck and pull forward slowly until I hear a, click the Jaws of the fifth wheel are, now free of the king pin, of the trailer now i drop the suspension of the truck and drive clear of the trailer then level suspension again greetings from Ireland
When you "Uncouple" or "Couple" to a trailer, you DO NOT remove the air/electrical lines until "AFTER" the power unit clears the trailer, and is still able to support the trailer after disconnection. Your 3-point Contact is terrible. The grease on that 5th Wheel is terrible. The overflow is hanging over the 5th wheel, which is way too much for the 5th wheel and its purpose. The area to the front of the 5th wheel shows rust from improper lack of placement of the grease. I should place a timer on the areas that are not good. But bringing the power unit to the trailer is good, and making sure everything is safe to back under is good, BUT, it is from that time, that you need to hook up the lines. Once that is done, you can go back into the cab, apply the brakes, release the trailer brakes and watch your "Secondary Air Gauge" which will tell you if the trailer is charging. Once you have done that, re-apply the trailer brakes, listen for the exhaust. Once you hear that very audible release of air, that is your indicator that the trailer spring brakes are charged and ready for hookup. Then you may go under and hook up. Don't worry about the shift of the trailer, you normally never hit the kingpin straight on. Once you hear the clank of the Locking Bar, you then give 2 good tugs to be sure you are hooked up. And don't be tender-footed, pull and hold for a second on both tugs. There is no better time for separation than at that point.
@@coolmen3570 yeah there's a lot of things more specific now, when you do your circle check and everything else, it's three-point contact when you get out of the truck, and you have to tilt your 5th wheel in say it has minimal FreePlay and you also have to say that you're Kingpin is at a 90 degree angle and your skid plate and Kingpin has no damage, and there's no gap between the trailer and the fifth wheel, and you also have to say your pins are straight, and there's no corrosion,