JBL Charge 3 Bluetooth Speaker USB Replacement - LFC 

Good share, thanks! 👍

That's usually how we learn new things :) Learned to appreciate googling a good disassembly instruction beforehand :D

Already passed the mark! GG!

I used a soldapullt... old memories... They still exist, a greeting.

Bummer! Mine's been holding up to 'unfair jobs' so far, but shame to hear that yours didn't! I'll keep brutalising mine, find out if it's just luck of the draw or not. Cheers for the comment though, good to know how well these things are doing in the wild.

Didn't stop me trying again though as overall i thought it was a good purchase

It kinda depends. At face value, it's a lot of hassle for not a lot of money. But for me, it's no big deal to do this kind of work, so I don't mind doing a 'high skilled job' for very little money since I could do it in less than half an hour if I was trying. There's certainly other jobs I do daily that are a lot easier for more money though.

This ^^^ micro USB is just a bad connector.

Sorry I didn’t read other comments first🙁

@@R.AudioElectronics Don't apologize. When advice is good it doesn't matter how many times it is said or written (it will also be appreciated). Greetings.

low melt solder

he's replaced the hard drive in an Xbox One and the power supply in a shop till/cash register, but a shredder sounds like a bit of a stretch!

sounds like an interesting job

You are right. I just hope that someone won't come to my workshop with a missile.

He's using rosin flux cored solder. Notice the little bits of smoke when he applies some solder wire.

@@chrisharvie-smith486 what is this rosin flux? when can it be used?

Some boards are easy to read, some aren't. Or you can get a schematic to show where everything is. In this video I show how in some cases you can find all the rails just by observing: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-djUzRTCZrck.html However, when injecting, you need to inject on the shorted rail. Each secondary power supply is partially isolated from the main power rail.

poooooosibly, if anything the tall mount of this would probably make it easier - you'd need space to have a type-c break-out board that converts the many pins of type C to a 5-pin micro. Probably doable though!

Yea I was trying not to push the connector out. I should've viced it up. You can get away with solder-blobbing small stuff like this though, add solder to tip, and the blob will transfer the heat, use discretion to avoid dry joints. Not text-book, but it works.

@@Adamant_IT Still prefer flux over discretion xD

Yea I noticed that it wasn't a fan of it. I wasn't going to flux before de-soldering, but I figured I'd please the keyboard warriors. There was a lot of flux smoke from every gap in the body of the de-soldering gun - that was what prompted me to then say 'no, heck off keyboard warriors, I'll use flux when it's actually useful, not when you guys think it's needed.'

7. Drink IPA after a long day of repair work.

samsynthis.tumblr.com/post/160007840476/completion-time-34-minutes-just-messing-around

I use a Miniware TS100

how long you have been using it

Quite a few years now, very effective electronics iron, very handy because you can power it from anything you've got lying around, laptop chargers, 12v adaptors, lipo batteries, bench PSU...

thanks man

I charge for the job, so I can take my time. Filming videos makes everything take twice as long - I'm a lot faster when the cameras are off and I'm not talking.

@@Adamant_IT I imagine there aren't many things at this stage of your career that you don't know how to charge for? Btw, I got on the discord server recently and the people on there were super friendly and able to help me out!

@@Adamant_IT I cannot resist :-D - That's what she said!

I aim for the top to make sure the data pins get heated properly. It's really easy to accidently rip pads when the anchors start flowing before the data pins do. Considering there's no concern about melting the plug itself, it's easy to just go above. However, if I were hot-airing the new connector on because I couldn't clear the holes (no desoldering pump) then heating from under the board would definitely be the way forward 👌

@@Adamant_IT it is much more easy to use low melting point solder on the joints and then use just 150-180C to remove the connector.. P.S.> Have you got my mail about the Thermal camera?

Well, when you use it on laptop screws, there's no [sounds of distress and slowness], it just zapps the screw out. These self-tapping-into-plastic screws are hard work for even a manual screw driver. I think it's reasonable to set limits on what we can expect a £30 electric screwdriver to be designed to deal with.

And far less profitable. Why would you throw away a perfectly good working board? Needless e-waste.

@@em0_tion Because time is money: a 30 minute+ fix becomes a 5 minute fix. The old board can be repaired at leisure and kept as a spare.

@@QuentinStephens I can't even find an available board for this model, all sold out Not to mention the price difference with just a simple dollar worth of a connector. Plus you gain the experience of the repair and you make more money / save money for the customer. Changing a port and changing a board is a small time difference. You still have to disassemble and assemble the device back together. So i don't get your 30 minutes vs 5 minutes math. The old board is worthless to me without the rest of the speaker. Repairing it "at leisure" is still wasting that time you're so obsessed about saving in the first place. I prefer spending my leisure time with my friends. And that is worth more to me than some X more minutes that it would take me to finish the job. Time is only money if you spend it making a shit ton of money and that's your main life goal. Otherwise it's just a meaningless phrase. To each his own i suppose. Edit: Imho i can see your logic working for big corporations with warranty support. I just prefer working/wasting my time for money, not for spare parts that i might even NOT come to use in the future. Plus my customer will be happy to get a cheaper fix, which in turn will win me a future customer, a.k.a. more money.

@@em0_tion The boards were available on ebay when I checked.

@@QuentinStephens and watching a video of him buying a daughter board in a 5 minute video would interest you?

Worked a treat though ;) Normally clearing the holes is the worst part of the job!

@@Adamant_IT yeah usually takes the most time for me as well

@@SstalkerS I have had good success using a regular solder sucker and a soldering iron on opposite sides of the board. Usually clamp the board with the iron on the underside and when the solder goes shiny, one quick pump and the hole is clear. Sometimes it helps to fill the hole with unleaded solder first. (Edit - I meant leaded solder)

@@coctailrob tnx for the tip