Because there is a lot of talk about removing the nut, just adding this; I bought the tool to jam the drum from JBugs (it's an EMPI item), and installed as shown. 250 ft lbs is concerning so I used a jack stand right under the short extender from my breaker to the 36mm socket to keep it parallel to the ground and firm. That helps a lot. And I positioned the 30" piece of pipe over the breaker in a low position and put a block of 4x4 under it. Why? In that way I could gradually stand on it and when the nut finally broke loose (a noise that was great to hear) the pipe and me wouldn't slam to the floor or my arm hit the car or whatever. . It travelled a down few inches and rested on the 4x4, if that makes sense. I'm about 200 so it let loose with a little rocking. Great tool and now on to the job itself.
I've asked in other forums about the larger o-ring. All of them state this o-ring goes over the bearing race rather than over the lip of housing. Can you confirm that this o-ring goes over this lip and NOT on the bearing race? I feel stupid for asking, but it's not clear in the Bently manual either.
Only by personal experience of pulling the caps and backing plates off. All the ones I've ever pulled apart that had the seals still intact had the o-ring against the housing. There is a small lip there between the bearing and the housing and I imagine if the o-ring was against the bearing it could easily get pinched during reassembly.
We have done a video about fixing common problems around fuel tanks in the past, it can be found here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FuM_UpLCFKw.html If you have a questions about anything not covered in the video, feel free to call us anytime at 1-800-231-1784 and our techs will be happy to help.
It depends on the transmission or hub but I typically use a hammer and an appropriately sized socket (something close to the same diameter as the bearing) or steel sleeve to tap bearings into place.
I'm installing your kit as im watching this video. The only question I have so far is about the wheel bearing. Should I grease these before installing all the disk break components??
Maybe I'm nuts but it looks like when he is placing the axle seal into the bearing cover he's working on the wrong end. Obviously the seal is seated on the inside of the cover. So why is he tapping on what looks to be outside surface?
Disc brake grease is supposed to be used for the slides not to be put on the back of the the pads brake pads there is a special chemical it's red do you use to glue the brake pads to the caliper you keep it from rattling which causes brake noise do not put grease just brake grease on the back of your pads that's a No-No also clean the rotors with brake clean have your hands clean when handling the brake pads you don't have to spray everything down with brake cleaner if you clean your hands before you handle your parts use good quality clean new brake fluid and flush the system and it may be a good time to put a new master cylinder in make sure you have the master cylinder in play adjusted for the rod for the brake pedal
I bought this kit. The paper bearing cap gasket used in this video is not used in your 1971 beetle video. Is it necessary/recommended for a 1969 beetle with IRS axle.
Hopefully you didn't buy this kit for a 69 Beetle as it wouldn't fit. As for the paper gaskets, there is no oil in the IRS axle stubs so the paper gaskets are not needed.
your video states that the short hose has tapered thread so no sealant is needed, I found that the thread appears to be different all together from the caliper thread. would you say when screwing the hose in it would feel like it's getting cross threaded? would that feel normal?
Possibly, it depends on the specific kit you are using. Some disc brake kits come with a threaded adapter as some calipers have a different thread than the hoses and fittings that VW used. www.jbugs.com/product/22-2865-1.html
We did install a distributor in our Type 3 project a few videos back: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NjKxtbYvSfo.html . We will be covering the installation of a vacuum advance distributor in a Beetle in an upcoming video.
Hello Jacob, we briefly cover the adjustment of the beam here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bd6m_G_U8ys.html - starting at 2:45. A more thorough video will be coming in the future when the car is ready to be driven so stay tuned.
Thank you, ill be waiting, having a hard time aligning the Tow in. the wheels look straight but once i put the jack down one wheel turns in and the other wheel stays straight.
What is the part number on the short brake hose adapter? (I ordered a kit from you guys and did not get one.) Also what length of steel brake line did you use?
The part number for the short hoses is 98-6707-B. Most kits do not use the hose, if your kit did not include the hoses, then they are not needed. The steel lines we used are 16.75” long which is what our kit needed. You have a different kit and may need a different length line.
Hey guys - is the large bore master cylinder necessary when converting to disc brakes? I recently purchased a 74 beetle that has front disc brakes already. I bought a rear disc conversion kit but am not sure if an upgraded master cylinder is required as part of the conversion. Also, is the axle nut removal tool the only way to get the axle nut loose, or is there another method that can be used? Thank you for your help.
If you are running 4 wheel disc brakes, a large bore master cylinder is a necessity, yes. A 36mm socket ( www.jbugs.com/product/5770.html ) and a half inch breaker bar are what we normally use to remove the axle nuts. For extremely stubborn nuts the torque multiplier ( www.jbugs.com/product/16-9602.html ) is handy. We carry the axle nut tool off road as it is compact and will work in a pinch but don't consider it our go to tool for removing the axle nut.
Excuse me, what is the Brake Steel line part number and both hoses brake lines, I just planing install rear disc brake conversion kit for my 1966 vw bug, thank you
All the parts we used can be found in the video description. As for kit specific parts, more information can be found in the item description on the product page.
JBUGS I looked but cannot find the rear brake steel line, already bought the conversion kit but I have to buy rear steel line but cannot see part number on the video
The kit comes from EMPI with the rubber hose and where as the caliper is attached to the axle, the caliper does move slightly as the pads clamp and release. We have to guess that the small amount of movement was enough for EMPI to warrant including the rubber hose.
