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Straight cut gears sound cool, for about a minute, then you realize how loud they are and want a break! I used to co-drive a Class 11 race car and after way too many hours in the car listening to straight cut gears, we decided against them for an engine that will eventually end up in a street car.
Here in the UK my vintage road racing 1965 Beetle is getting 126hp@7700rpm from its twin carb 1285cc with stock sized (33x30mm) valves though a regulation (105db max) silencer, so it should be 100hp/litre with a stinger fitted. Gathering parts for a 1299cc (60x83mm) which will allow much larger valves. Currently runs high 14's on the 1/4 and the low gearing means it tops out at 113mph Love to know if there's any quick 1300's over there in the US
@@rickmartin7062 If I use a 3.88 the 'theoretical' top speed would be 141mph, but my motor doesn't have the correct torque curve to pull that gear at any speed. It currently has a 4.86 due to it being a circuit racer. The tracks in the UK have very few long straights, so you have to sacrifice top speed for acceleration, from a slow corner I can match the acceleration of the 400hp Mustangs upto 70mph after which they pull away, but you make back the time lost under braking and cornering
@@Sam_Mebane Seems to be a European thing. I'm limited to 1300cc by vintage racing rules. There's also a 1584cc drag racing challenge based in Sweden but covers all of Europe, cars must also use stock valve sizes, quickest in the street class so far is 11.1@126mph quickest race car 9.4@150mph
My late father went on a business trip to West Germany (as it was then known) in 1961 and surprise! brought home a VW Beetle. Since then I’ve had an affinity for them. Great to see people still enjoying them.
Ah, back in the good(?) old days of East & West Germany....we're showing our age there! There's a reason why Disney used the Beetle as the car in the Herbie series. Very few cars invoke the emotions that a Beetle does!
AWESOME video. Lots of hard work. We all learn every day or the day wasn't complete. I don't think there is any machine on the planet Loved more than the volkswagon. Again thank you very much for a real life experience in the shop
Thank you, yeah I had nothing to prove and nothing to lose so we just went for it. It could have been better and it could have been much worse! I chalk it all up as a learning experience and thank God for the opportunity!
@jbugvwparts Brother, I’m need to install a third brake light, the third brake light has three wires: brown, black and greenyellow. Where does each wire go to and to which socket can I connect that to?
Old VWs did not have a third brake light so whatever the wires are on your light is impossible for us to say. Your best bet is to hook up one wire (I'd start with the black wire) to the ground (negative) terminal of a 12 volt battery and connect the others, one at a time to the positive terminal so you can determine what does what on the light. As for connecting it to the VW wiring, the black/red wire at either side of the engine compartment is the brake light signal.
The carburetor is linked in the description and right here - www.jbugs.com/product/113129031KJB.html We no longer offer a printed catalog. All of our products and current prices are listed on our website.
I had a blast watching the engine battle live last week! Killed me to watch the issues you ran into, but was great to see your comeback and what a real streetable motor can do. I'm confident you'll get that motor sorted out, Sam. Your engine videos were a lot of help when we were building a new motor for my son's baja last fall (his name happens to be Sam as well). You definitely know your way around VW's.
Sooo... what about those of us running internally regulated alternators? I wish I could just run the power under the rear seat like a late model bug but the wires are bundled together in the harness. What’s the best way to route power without a regulator mounted to the generator???
2 questions: 1) looks like the timing mark at 32 degrees is at the bump out on the case next to the split, rather than the split itself. Is this really where it is supposed to be? I have seen other videos with the same alignment, so I just really am not sure where exactly I am lining up the timing mark. 2) will the dual advance work with a mild performance cam? I am running a 1641 with an Engle 100, and wondering if I can replace my 009.
Thank you Matt, that’s God given maturity learned through years of adversity. Bouncing from foster home to adoptive home, and back and forth numerous times until I signed my own adoption papers as an adult will do that I guess! Thank the Lord that at this point He’s taught me that I can’t change the past and my attitude can make the difference in the future. To God be the glory!
Great job and what a great event. You still put up awesome numbers. Like the lowbugget guy said in your interview after your. A square build. I hope to achieve the same with a 2275 soon. Reliable and cool running with pretty equal hp and torque.
It was great meeting you. While we didn't end up where we wanted, we wouldn't have gotten anything done without your help. You're a scholar, and a gentleman sir.
Watched the entire event while working on my 69 project . Really enjoyable. Sorry to see the unfortunate problems You had Sam, but that’s just how it goes sometimes, we’ve all been there and learn from it and move on. Already looking forward to next year. 👍👍🇺🇸
I began with a tour of EMPI's warehouse and Sam saw me and pulled me in for a front-row seat to the engine battle. I can honestly say this competition never felt contentious. There were no superiority complexes among the engine builders and no animosity toward other shops. I was awestruck by the spirit of brotherhood and the positive energy shared by all the participants. Such an awesome experience. I have so much respect for all the engine builders who competed.
I've been bleeding the brakes for the new master cylinder on my '69 VW Bug. I keep pumping the pedal while someone else opens and closes the bleeder nut. Just only air keeps coming out.
If you still haven't got them bled by now, try removing the rear brake line at the master cylinder. Pump the master cylinder once or twice to make sure it is pushing fluid out the port. Reconnect the line, go to the back right wheel cylinder and remove the line. Pump (and continually check the reservoir) until fluid comes out at the rear. Then reconnect the lines and try bleeding the brakes normally.
I found mine on eBay. Search for "Universal 2 Pcs Carbon Fiber Vintage F1 Style Racing Car Left/Right Side Mirrors". I modified mine to fit the factory mirror threads.
After I pulled a nut out of a piston and slapped it back together with a mismatched piston, a new cylinder and a quickly repaired head, it put down 149 horses and 150 torque. 44x37.5 valves and a FK8 cam.
The jugs are critical if you want most power + most mpg + smoother engine.. flat file to close then hine it to perfection! also after the break -in= them valves need be re- ajusted and centered.. and lock tight med + can file sides to make it center the bolt ! after 3 oil changes = ad lucas oil treatment and last 10k miles oil change if use good oil.
Absolutely, once we get back from the dyno competition I plan on going through how to sync the carbs and what not. I just didn't have time to film it before hand!
This was an a la carte build and at the moment so many of them are not currently available so it will be hard to list them all. When I get back from the dyno competition I’ll get to work on compiling all the parts and we’ll probably have them listed on a page on our website.
Thanks Kyle! I’ll have it at home tomorrow if you’re bored, maybe we can slap it in Nate’s Baja Bug really quick to take it to the car show at O’Reilly’s on Saturday! LOL