I was thinking there's got to be a better way. My mind was wondering towards another clamp with a 1mm pitch screw to push the cutter forward, but your idea much simpler and better.
@@snowballengineering I can’t remember they’re specific name but McMaster car sells threaded square hole inserts for boring bars. Keith Fenner/turnwright machine has part numbers even in one of his videos about boring bars. I think it’s titled “my go to bar”. He’s got some good content he used to do machining in a shipyard.
@@markrainford1219 I use a similar system for my barrel rifling cutter adjustments, the larger calibers I use a pusher screw below the cutter but the smaller calibers are too small for this to work so for them a built a clamp that clamps on the cutter head and has a dial indicator on the cutter side and a super fine thread pusher screw on the other to push the cutter out I can accurately move the cutter .0003 the most I ever move it out is .0005 any more than that and it plugs my chip box in the cutter head. my line bore I am thinking of doing a similar design but for now I'm just moving it by hand, it's a pain but it works.
I have often wondered if a mag drill could be made to power a line bore set up and now I know. However, my old Powerbor PB32 is a bit tired for such a task. Top stuff young man. I presume you watch Cutting Edge Engineering (Australia), I C Weld and On Fire Welding? If not, then I can recommend them because they are top channels for repairs, line boring and welding.
I do watch them. Them guys are the reason I started making videos myself. Learnt a lot from watching them, hopefully I might be able to share some useful information too.
I like your line borer necessity is the mother of invention cool idea with your grips good way to set the cutter gets the job done you have thought about it fair play to you good job.
I'm happy to have found your channel you have basically answered all my questions and concerns about using a mag drill for line boring. I need to get my pivot on my tractor repaired has about 3/4 inch of slop in the pivot so it's good to see a mag drill working to drive the line boring bar mine is at least variable speed just have to turn the end and cut the flats for the Weldon coupler. Im just not sure if I should weld up the bearing holes then line bore them or line bore first to make the holes round and over sized and make insert sleeves to fit oem bearings at least this way the next time I have to do this all I need to do is knock out the sleeve and turn another and press it back in not sure what is better i do know that trying to turn welded material can be a problem. Thanks for your videos on this subject.🤔🤔👍👍👍👍🍻
A while ago I watched Keith Fenner do some line boring on his lathe. He had some adjustable tool holders in his bar. If you can get hold (or make ) some they would make your life easier when it comes to adjusting the length of the lathe tool. I think they sell them at MSC (USA) but if I can find out the name I'll let you know. He does mention them in one of his vids but I can't locate it. I can probably draw what I mean quicker than I can explain them. Good vid.
that's what i love about machining your imagination is your limitation and a machine set up is safe or it unsafe your going to see it and do it one way i most likely will do it another but in the end was it safe and was it a good job and sir you are a dam good boiler plate machinist
I agree I've seen this Kid do some amazing things he doesn't pull punches when doing repairs either he makes it to LAST and that is the sign of a PRO.... from one so young you gott'a love it.... when the word gets out he will be hiring extra hands just to keep up ! his skills will definitely make him rich ! but that takes time!
I don't know if there is a fixed relationship between the holes you bored and the other pair of holes, but if you had longer plates you could lock into those holes and rest assured you were the correct distance away and only needed to adjust "vertically." You would also be parallel to their centerline if that matters. But good stuff, i enjoyed both videos.
The inserts are definitely taking a hammering from the heat-affected zone especially as the rpms on the drill are so high... but its working, a bit more refining and you'll have a great system for small money, congrats !! 😎👍☘️🍺
I was quite surprised how much the tiny inserts could take. With the new line boring machine I’ve made thankfully they don’t take as much of a hammering.
G’day don’t know if your mag drill has the room but on mine I have a designated plate for the mag drill with a bolt on the side screwed into the magnet of the drill so you can turn the magnet off and it won’t fall. Looks like it worked well though your dial clamp is a nifty idea. I use a digital dial indicator when setting the tool only because it is easier to zero
Perhaps you could have some kind of thumb screw on your tool calibration clamp so that you could set it against your tool before you loosen it then you could tighten it to adjust your tool. This would at least give you a positive stop point to hold the tool against while tightening you grub screw. If that makes sense. I could draw it and maybe make it clearer.
Lower rpm?? Especially the first cut to save you insert. Plus when adjusting the height of the cutter: make it so that when slightly tighting the grub screw that the insert is just a bit low and than tap it to the desired height. Nice job for a custom diy set up
Unfortunately my mag drill only has one speed. My next set up I’m going to use an eibenstock motor with 2 gears and variable speed. I’ll do that next time, thanks for the advice.
@@snowballengineering do you understand what i meant by tapping the cutter to desired height while it is semi slightly locked? Yes a lower gear would be nice but the cutter is doing a pretty good job cutting all that rough plasma junk.
At 1:31 add an adjusting screw to the bottom of you contraption that measures the insert height. That screw pushes up or keeps the insert at a certain height
Can you do a video explaining how you had the bar ? I have a mag drill and thinking of doing the same!. I would assume you did it on a milling machine?
I turned the end down in the lathe to match the size of a normal cutter and used a milling machine to mill the flats. Also drilled the holes in the milling machine.
Love the home made line boring kit. You made a quality job of that repair. Just wondering why you don’t bore the holes closer to finished size and just take the last couple of mm out with the line borer? That headstock share had some abuse
Hi. This is a great video and great bit of work. I have been thinking of building the same setup for a while. I bought a bigger drill with slower speed settings. I have yet to get a bar setup. I was thinking 50mm bar but your size would probably be better to start with. What thpe of bar is yours? I would be concerned about welding when the magdrill is connected to the setup as i think it could damage the magdrill. Did you machine the end of the bar yourself to fit the magdrill?
Hello. Thanks! It’s a great cheap and effective way of getting the job done. I made the bar myself and yes, i machined the end to fit the same as a standard mag drill cutter. It’s difficult to get the plate the drill sticks to in the right place without having the drill already stuck to it.
I know what your saying about the plate but you culd fry the circuit in the drill i think. Is it just chrome bar for a hudraulic bar? That what i was thinking of buying and maybe trying to drill the holes with the magdrill myself as i dont have any engineering machinery like milling machine or lathe etc. What would be the maximum size bore you could safely cut with that size bar you are using?
As long as the welders ground clamp is close to the weld area it isn't a problem. It's when your ground clamp is attached to the work piece at the other end of the shop is when your liable to fry electronics
@@snowballengineering you should be able to use an external speed controller, you'll lose a bit of torque but I doubt it will be significant although you mentioned upgrading it so maybe a three phase motor and inverter drive is the way to go.
Hello, great video, can you tell me what steel the boring bar is made of, I will try to make such a tool myself, because I can't afford to spend about 20k on a new line boring machine Thank you and best regards