This video is f'ing GOLDEN. Finally, somebody did it 100% correctly anymore, even including the detergent specification. BTW, the OEM seal had dry detergent on the outboard face, it looks like a faint coat of dry white paint.
thanks for the detail (even if it was longer than you wanted it to be) .. appreciate the focus on just the install offset on the seal, some brushed over this, but its the most important part of all this, hope I didn't jack it up..
Thanks for the comment and I bet you'r fine . Also when you test it out make sure back bolts on value cover are good because thats there a lot of leaks actually come from .
Lots of great tips that I hadn't seen or heard from other sources. Hopefully tomorrow morning will be the last time I have to deal with that seal for a while. Thanks!
Hopefully everything went well and if you have any question let me know . FYI a lot of ppl do a main seal and still have a leak check your valve cover back bolts
@@rustyjeep9783 got finished up about 4 hours ago and so far not even a dribble on the pan! I've watched a number of other videos but none of them gave the details and the tips you did all in one video. This was a great help, I really appreciate it. I recently cracked a brand new Banks header (because I can't follow instructions, don't wrap your headers) and while replacing it I did the exhaust/intake manifold gasket, valve cover, trans filter, pan and gasket, rear main seal, oil pan and gasket, O2 sensors, spark plugs, injectors, and the u-joints. I'm hoping to be good for another 100k 😁 🍻
I’m thinking of doing this myself, what’s your opinion of shops/internet saying you have to remove transmission to complete the job? Are they just wanting to soak customers on the labor? Would the dealership do the job like your doing? And if so, what’s your opinion on hours of labor to do the job?
You definitely don't have to remove transmission on 2006 tj and earlier .... I don't have a JK 2007 up but I'm pretty sure you do on them .. I think dealers still do the job but they charged $500 18 years ago so probably close to 850 I would guess ..... Before You do anything plz check behind your valve cover because A LOT OF TIME the leak is there and thats a lot easier to fix ...On time it really depends if your doing it you self and how much rusty bolts are involved ... I would say 6-8 hours and thats taking exhaust off dropping axle down as far as possible putting oil pan gasket on after cleaning everything and putting it back together (IT COULD BE 4-5 IF EVERYTHING Goes good. Ive heard of 3 but not me) .... For a mechanic I can't find hours anywhere but if recall its6- 7 hours charged .. Last thing have you tried Lucas oil treatment if money is tight and you need a quick fix they you better then the rest ... Sorry so long winded but i take ppl asking question seriously
I’ll look closer at that valve cover, but I power washed it yesterday and the drip is worse after removing the caked oil pan, the drip is from the bottom of the bell housing plate, but it could be coming from the valve cover.
Good luck and cleaning it first will help you out in the long run. On certain transmission there is a gap on top under the valve cover that lets oil down the bell housing.Thats why i would check But you'r probably right about the rear seal ...
Well 2day i replaced the rms on my 2004 tj 4.0 using the offset method & 2morrow i get to tear it apart again because it leaks twice as bad, not sure where exactly yet but hopefuuly i can find evidence of where i went wrong! i just used a little anerobic in those areas & i put some ultra black on the 4 areas of the block where it needs to be, i know some ppl put the permatex on both sides of the gasket in the front & rear valley areas but i didnt see any when i took it off mine so i didnt feel the need to use all that silicone except where the bearing cap & timing cover meets the block! im glad you answered one question i had about offsetting the seal, i was wondering how you wouldnt cut the seal without using the plastic shoe horn because your just relying on the caps machined tolerances to get it lined up to fit in the groove & then just hoping it all goes well as you torque the cap down, i dont know i hope the second times the charm cuz there wont be a third it will just leak i suppose!
Im sorry to hear it leaked after all that work . Just fyi check the oil pan because I found out that mine was leaking passenger back CR. I dropped the pan down and put a THIN layer of Black gasket on the pan and block With a new gasket. The reason i mentioned this is because it leaked back wards to end of pan. Also check the back of valve cover for leak because that looks like a mainseal also ...
I took a part the hole motor and replaced every gasket . I won't be running the motor until end of april probably . I have oil in the motor and primed the oil pump and rotate it every month no Leakes .So I can't say for sure if i have no Leakes sorry ...
